rideadeuce

SAFETY RECALL REPORT RCLRPT-24V322-5775.PDF I am glad the recall was done looks like there was a 2nd unit found with incorrect coupler during service in April (See Chronology section). Appreciate Oliver for following through with this but agree with @Geronimo John and @jd1923 it should be posted in Safety/Recalls and it seems like Bulldog MFG should be doing their own recall. Also, it looks like OTT is planning to send out letters to owners by July 17th, 2024 just waiting on approval. Stay safe, Mike

So unfortunately not good reception in the Tundra on the way down but I might get a second router to place in the front closet. If I had to do the cradlepoint modem and and antenna install originally I might have put it in the front closet so that the reception driving down the road would have been better. Maybe second router can work as an extender. Way down on the list at the moment. Speed at Gulf State Park is awesome though!

Yeah, what I like about them is they are super durable. Having had my Tundra long enough to use two sets of Michelins and now a second set of Falken Wildpeak A/T tires I have become a big fan of the Falkens Wildpeaks. They are not loud, good traction, and last almost as long as the Michelins. When having had to plug for a screw/nail, no comparison in how difficult it is to get a plug in (thought I was going to have to get the drill out!) The Falken's are incredibly tough. The Wildpeak line has an all season road tire all the way to A/T, M/T and R/T.

New tires after 6 years with the Michelins. They performed well just had some very small cracks starting to form on the side wall. Changed the TPMS batteries while I was at it.

Nice, simple video for electric brake inspection while you have hub off for packing the bearings. https://youtu.be/P5J3OFKK4DI

Torque settings and wet bolt grease cross-hole alignment. Wet bolt 30-50 ft-lbs Center bolt 65-75 ft-lbs Grease cross-hole alignment 3 or 9 o'clock position 059-A45-00E-ZFlexInstructionSheet-3.pdf

Bulldog shocks are a bit beefier and look like they are well made. Easy swap. Leaf springs look good, still on the fence about upgrading to the Alcan 5 leaf springs. Clips were loose on both springs on the right. Center bolt nut on the left EZ flex was loose and about to fall off. All of the Monroe shocks seemed to be in good working order just rusty. Future plans include the ALCAN highway so trying to get everything done now. New tires in the morning. https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007 Wildpeak H/T02 LT225/75R16 E/10PLY BSW *** Now back to torquing the shocks so that the cushion is the same diameter as the metal retainer but not larger. ***

Not the fastest, but definitely better than anything else we have had especially for remote areas.

The VHB metal discs are permanently applied, but the magnetic rubberized feet on the mount make it removable for land mount or cleaning/waxing.

Really happy with the mount and semi-permament installation.

You can't see it in the picture but the cap posts were cracked and the screw mount that held it down had been broken as well during a wash/wax job. Kept falling off.

I have to agree most things can be attached with proper prep using VHB tape, especially on fiberglass, it is a perfect medium for VHB tape. I was actually going to use it to attach the rain guard on the new Maxx-Air fan but decided not to use the guard at all. My two 90 watt panels I installed up top are held in place by VHB only. I did use some backup attachment screws for the wiring mounted on the aluminum solar panel frame. It's been 4-5 years and everrything has held up great. AmSolar.com swears by it, says they have never had a panel come off that was installed correctly. One does hate to drill into the beautiful, waterproof fiberglass unnecessarily, maybe with time, more and more people will ask for VHB tape's use. The drive for its use also needs to come from the manufactures of 3rd party items to make them more conducive to VHB tape installation. This is I am sure is not a priority for them but it sure would be nice for us. https://amsolar.com/shop/mounting-accessories/#

I don't know enough to really answer your question but what the deciding factor for me was that Victron stated somewhere that the non-isolated version will work for most (99%) of applications. Maybe @MAX Burner will have some input after having had some experience using it.

The hardest part of this job was finding the correct part so that you do not have to drill new holes. Make sure to get one that is 5 1/2 in wide NOT 5 1/4 which most are. The one I found is from eTrailer and it is made in the USA even better. After butyl tape cures for a few days, I will put down some marine caulk. https://www.etrailer.com/RV_Vents_and_Fans/LaSalle_Bristol/34474558.html Best, Mike

@Galway Girl Did you swap out your hot bus bar for better or more connections? Could you wire ORION XS Pos output directly to the post where the (2) 4 AWG wires are already connected.

@MAX Burner I just noticed that you installed a non-isolated DC/DC charger. The newly released Orion XS 12/12 50amp charger is only available in non-isolated version and one of the requirements is that the starter battery and house battery share a common earth ground. Did you just run your black negative from the TV battery to the negative bus bar => charger negative to negative bus bar => then from bus bar to ground. I wasn't sure about the wiring. I have the new version that is non-isolated on order and was trying to figure how to wire. https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-xs-12-12-50a-dc-dc-battery-charger Oh, and do you think it is possible to snake the 4 awg cables from the cable gland opening under the toilet to the aft dinette area without removing the bathroom shelf. Is it worth attempting? Or just remove it and proceed.

Yes, sure do.

Finally, got around to switching out old Zamp solar SAE plug that used reverse polarity. Switched to industry standard polarity so I don't have to use a polarity reversal adapter to recharge house batteries with Goal Zero panels. Plus the cap had broken off and I already had an open sealant tube from other projects. Best, Mike

Little Giant setup with trestle brackets and plank is a game changer for working on and cleaning the Oliver, especially at my age. They actually sell a ladder with built in levelers. The ladder comes apart to make to A-frames, you connect them with trestle brackets and top them off with plank. Links below: https://www.littlegiantladders.com/products/epic Accessory bundle is included with wall mount and trestles. https://www.littlegiantladders.com/products/ladder-plank?variant=41042434228389

Thought you might like this... not sure it will work. https://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-Vent-Corp-00-03901-Maxxshade/dp/B07KZ9T1Z4/ref=asc_df_B07KZ9T1Z4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693335493112&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=261179565984474337&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013085&hvtargid=pla-644086059971&mcid=6c1726096f563c42bb70becfaa12f4dd&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgJyyBhCGARIsAK8LVLOznWD0G_sZfeZYy7Yo7cdMK0aMU_GnNA76snk-FhTlKrpv7yB-cPwaAifEEALw_wcB&th=1

Oh, I forgot to mention I blew the fuse for the fan in the sub panel in the attic. Left side, 5th down 7.5 amp. I recommend taking it out before wiring.

Yes, it fits exactly. The only thing that would work better is to modify the wiring by drilling a hole next to the opening that leads to area that the LED shroud covers. The original wiring from the Vent-line fan came out the side and just tucked in between fiberglass shells. The wiring from the LED light squeezes between the extension shroud and hole but would be better if it was better protected.

The forum has given me more work to do again! Love the new fan with light. I won't bore everyone with the same information already available from previous posts but great upgrade. The only thing I might have done in retrospect is drill a 1/4 in hole adjacent to the 6 in opening so that the wires had a better home rather than squeezed between the fiberglass and shroud.

You VHB 4in round metal disks that the rubberized magnets on swivels legs attach to and then you can remove it easily for cleaning or land use, etc. Also, I wanted to use the legs so I could get a couple inches of height and use a M6 bolt sleeve to raise the rear to give the dish an 8-10 degree slant for water shedding (similar to the OEM RV mount). Of course, you can easily permanently mount it flat using VHB or screws if you wanted to, lots of options. No room in the back to place it due to AC blockage and Cradlepoint external antenna on my application. I did consider placing it on the AC shroud and could easily trial it due to having the magnets and VHB metal disks. My gut feeling is that the shroud is not strong or stable enough plus I don’t want to catch it on anything if it is the highest point on the RV. Internet speed testing has been great so far, anxious to see what the numbers are once I am traveling on the interstate.

Yes, but I am glad to report it was plug and play for the Cradlepoint and Starlink through the WAN port. Only had to drag the WAN connection to the priority spot and will automatically use LTE when it is not available. Also, put the Starlink router in bypass mode. Pretty awesome, took about 10 min to get it up and running. Just got the Starlink hardware installed today, now waiting on the mount.