[ADVENTURES Begin AFTER Leaving Home!]

Very eloquently put, as usual for RB.

Mossey

[Need advice on portable solar charge controller]

I believe you can only apply for the tax credit once, so plan accordingly and save 21% or 26%, whatever the credit is for 2021.

And don’t let me spend your money for you, do as much as you can this year and save some money.  
 

Mossey

[Heat Management of Lithium/Solar/Charging Upgrades]

59 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

PD 4060 (60 Amp) Converter with Lithium Capability  ( 😊 Andrew Kesner! )

My 2017 LE2 PD4045 charger module was not lithium compatible, so I replaced it with a 45 Amp lithium compatible module.  Have you verified that yours is not lithium ready.  And if you haven’t already researched the increased AC and DC load requirements, I think you should verify that the wiring and other components of the 12V DC circuit will in fact be suitable for a 15 Amp upgrade and the 120 AC feed for the increased load.

I don’t have a DC to DC charger but JD mounted his under the street side bed so heat may not be an issue.  I don’t remember if Galway Girl experienced any excessive heat issues with their install.

When I installed three BB batteries, I followed Overland’s example and removed all wiring in the battery box except the main 12V B+ and ground and the temperature wire for the Victron 712.  And I don’t have any advice about SCC heat output other than the Zamp SCC isn’t a large heat source and it is installed in a very small cubby above the radio.  The heat from both of them combined was not a worry for me.

God luck and have fun with your upgrades and additions,

Mossey

[Need advice on portable solar charge controller]

I agree with VBistro about the weight difference.  I’m not worried about the storage weight as much as having to handle the 200W suitcase. Personally I would rather handle a couple of 100W suitcases.

When I mentioned 2 individual ports, I was referring to both being on the street side, one fore and one aft of the battery box.  A few years back, Raspy mounted his port in the battery box door and he was happy with it.  I mounted one Furion port forward of the battery box for my 100W suitcase.  I am not sure if I would like a solar panel plugged into the wall of my front porch although it would be easier to move and follow the sun and I could keep a better eye on the suitcase and it’s sun exposure from my easy chair.  Wow, I am getting lazy.

What are your plans for the SCC?  You mentioned a second suitcase without a SCC.

Mossey

[Need advice on portable solar charge controller]

40 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

ran across the ZAMP double solar port, each rated at 10 amps (SAE Connections) served by two sets of 10 AWG wired.  They also make a triple version.  For me the double will be more than sufficient. 

The triple port version is the same product Oliver installs as part of their solar package and the connector is the same as the single solarport you referenced above.  The only difference is the plastic or ABS housing.  If you like the Furion Solar Port just install two of those, maybe one on each side of the battery box.

Are you going to combine the output of both suitcase panels into a single SCC before connecting to whichever port/ports you decide on?

Mossey

[Seelevel tank monitor mystery ( to me) error code]

I would certainly follow AndrewK's advice above.

The following screenshots are from the SeeLevel II manual.
It looks like there are 2 power wires to the panel.  One for the display and one for the pump and the pump circuit is working ok. 

 

The picture below shows the character in your picture and it’s a T.  And the solution is to see the wiring diagnostic section.   Seems like good place to start since you reinstalled the batteries.

 

You should be able to access the back of the display through the pantry to verify the panel wiring connector.

 

This last picture picture references frozen or unresponsive displays.

 

Good luck!

Mossey

[no on shore power]

30 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:

Agree.  I’ve got the soft start and a Champion 2K Watt generator that runs the AC fine.  Mike

Do you have a SoftStart or a Micro-Air EasyStart?  I believe Oliver is installing the EasyStart but SoftStart is doing a lot of advertising and the products look identical.  And I read this on the internet "SoftStart was started by an ex Micro-Air employee" so it must be true.😉  So I was curious if you are using a generic term or a business name.

Mossey

[Monroe shock absorber warranty? Two blown and leaking!]

1 hour ago, John E Davies said:

I am guessing about the hole size….. please verify first! But if you don’t replace the bushings at the same time, the old ones will probably fail immediately.

The stud size is 3/8” according to the spec sheet for a Monroe 565025 Gas-Magnum 65 Shock Absorber which was original equipment on my 2017 LE2.  I think saving the original bushing washers would be a better option than a fender washer.  So maybe I’ll save my old ones when I replace the shocks.

There is a link to the complete product page at the bottom.

Mossey

• Specifications

  SHOCK ABSORBER

  Compressed Bumper Stop

  No

  Compressed Length

  8.625

  Dust Shield

  Yes

  Dust Shield Material

  Metal

  Extended Bumper Stop

  Yes

  Extended Hydraulic Lockout

  No

  Extended Length

  13.5

  Lower Mounting Code

  S4

  Lower Mounting Type

  Stem Mount - 2.3/8" Stem Length X 3/8"-16 Thread Pitch

  Parts Pack

  P01134

  Travel Length

  4.875

  Upper Mounting Code

  S4

  Upper Mounting Type

  Stem Mount - 2.3/8" Stem Length X 3/8"-16 Thread Pitch
• https://drivcat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brandId=MS&pNum=555025&partType=Shock Absorb

[Researching our final RV]

1 hour ago, Steph and Dud B said:

Couldn't find a measurement of the headroom in there, but it looks tight on the photos/videos I've seen.

I will try to answer this question, but since I am a short person at 6' even or at least I used to be, old age seems to shorten most of us.  The shower pan is 24" wide X 22" deep. The measurements are 73-1/8" at the door and 67" at the sink.  Say what?  The shower is at the front of the trailer and the curve of the front roof/ceiling accounts for the difference.  Is it tall enough for you?  That’s your decision, but I will say it’s better than a sink bath.  My wife claims to 5' tall and she would like more water pressure and an unlimited supply of water, but it works for both of us.

I know of some tall Oliver owners and their solution is to sit on the toilet while showering.

36 minutes ago, Zodd said:

I believe the beds are 72 inches (including the dinette). So right at 6 feet it is a little tight too.

My twin beds measure 30" wide and 76-3/4” along the aisle and 68” along the wall.  Again the curve of the sidewall to the end of the trailer is curved.  I am a side sleeper so it works for me and we started with the large bed and hated changing the configuration each night.  We tried sleeping on the benches but that didn’t work either as they were not wide enough for me, but worked for my wife.

One last comment about beds, take a look at Southern Mattress.  They are in North Carolina and shipped our beds to Oliver for us.  The have made quite a few beds for other Oliver owners and we are completely satisfied with ours.  They will make a bed with just about any material combination you want.  Our beds are about 9" tall and are quite comfortable.

Sheets?  We use the fitted twins we had.  Can you bounce a quarter on them after making them?  No!  But we just tuck in the extra along the wall.

Some owners for go sheets altogether and use sleeping bags on top of whatever blanket or bed spread they choose.  We cut a king or queen size spread in half to make two twin spreads.

Mossey

[Saving Caulk]

Well I guess that glowing endorsement fooled me into thinking someone had found something better than sliced bread.  Maybe I’ll wait for Overland to try them out, cause he buys that 3M stuff by the case.😃

Mossey

[Saving Caulk]

1 hour ago, topgun2 said:

Early last year I saw a Youtube video that talked about a canister that is used to help save open tubes of caulk.  So, I bought two.

If all OTTO's bought a 2 pack, we would probably put 3M out of business.  I usually just throw my partial tubes of any 3M caulk in the garbage.  I have found that trying to save them is really frustrating.  I have them on my short list.

Thanks topgun2,

Mossey

[ScubaRX]

Say your prayers because Steve and Tali need them.

Mossey

[3rd Party Observer TPMS]

I just found some information on the TST website that sheds a little light on how their system works.  Below is a snippet of the information available at their website.

Mossey

https://tsttruck.com/how-it-works

 

The monitor continually sequences through the sensors displaying each tires pressure and temperature. In the event an anomaly is detected, the monitor locks onto that sensor emitting an audible alarm and a textual description of the issue (fast leak, low pressure, high temperature).

 

 

 

 

[Heating duct tear]

It’s pretty flimsy material so it would be best to have some internal support for the duct.  Maybe disconnect it at the point closest to the tear and work your hand/arm or something similar into the duct while applying the foil tape.

Mossey

[3rd Party Observer TPMS]

45 minutes ago, LongStride said:

My sensors provide a reading while static that changes with atmospheric conditions.  Our Elite sits in a north/south orientation when at home.  There is a noticeable difference in tire pressures on sunny days.  Particularly early morning when the east tire warms in the sun.

Yes, that’s why the sensors on the east side of my trailer have higher pressure and temperature readings when I’m heading north in the morning and then it’s the west side in the afternoon and they are pretty even during the middle of the day.  The spare tire always reads cooler than the east or west side of the trailer, it’s always in the shade.  And I know that tire pressure goes up when the tires are warmer, thus the advice to check tire pressure when the tires are cold.  Of course that advice predates TPMS's, but now you can see it real-time as the tires heat up and the monitor displays the results.

As far as the lack of information goes, that applies to anything I purchase these days.  I don’t believe it’s an entirely new condition.  I think you worked in a technical or engineering world if I remember correctly and if so, you would know about documentation evolving from hard to soft copies.  I believe that change was driven by costs initially, but also believe the rapid changes in everything made currently, make it impossible for paper information to stay up to date.  I just bought a new Apple Mac mini and the box included the computer, power, HDMI and USB-C cables as well as a 4 page booklet and an Apple sticker.  The LG monitor I also purchased included a power cable, similar paperwork and a CD.  If you don’t know anything about the Mac mini, you wouldn’t know that it doesn’t have a CD drive.  So it’s off to google world.

I will add that I have a TST system and their technical support is excellent and it was certainly worth the phone call.

Mossey

[3rd Party Observer TPMS]

On 10/9/2021 at 9:16 AM, John E Davies said:

How do you know those are not the last stored readings from one or more days back?

After thinking about this a little more, I turned my monitor on yesterday and the sensor values were blank initially and after 3 to 4 minutes all 5 sensors reported values that were within my parameters.  Now my trailer has not moved since August 20th which really doesn’t mean anything, but does make me think that if it was a stored value, the monitor shouldn’t have needed 3 or 4 minutes to show an old value.  I do believe the monitor has non-volatile memory to store user parameters, but what would be the purpose of storing historical sensor data?

Mossey

[Andersen hitch help]

14 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Do you use the 7100 WLL or 12,000?  I assume both would work with our safety cable hooks?

I use 3/8” safety chains with a 24,000 lb. breaking strength with hooks that fit my Toyota so I don’t need hammer links, but if I did need either of them, I would buy the size that my hooks would fit in as either size would meet my safety requirements.
For the Andersen chain extensions, I used 3/8” heavy duty twin link clevis repair links with a working load limit of 6600 lbs.

Maybe Patriot will chime in with the size he is using with his F250 Tremor that topgun2 referenced above.

This LINK will take you a different brand, but it does provide size information for your reference.

Mossey

 

[Andersen hitch help]

GJ and topgun2,  I would suggest you re-think you F150 safety chain connection.  The quick links you are using are rated at 3300 lbs. WLL and I believe  a single trailer safety chain should be rated for the weight of the entire trailer.  I am sure you have seen postings here on the forum about the Anderson WDH's with chain extensions connected with 3/8” quick links failing.  Have you explored hammer links?  If not take a look below to see an example and compare the safe WLL.  They would solve your F150 safety chain connection safely.

Mossey

[Boondocking and using outlets]

The GFCI outlet is under the dinette in my 2017 LE2.  I’m not sure where it is in a 2021, so you may have to look around.

Do you know how to turn the inverter on?  I believe there is a remote panel or display that should be active, maybe above the dinette.

Mossey

[3rd Party Observer TPMS]

3 hours ago, John E Davies said:

How do you know those are not the last stored readings from one or more days back?

I don’t pay too much attention to the temperature or pressure readings while the trailer is parked because I usually turn the monitor off shortly after arriving at a campsite.  I really don’t think it matters as long as they were within the target parameters when I turn it off.  I do know that the monitor reads each sensor in 5 second intervals and any changes are updated within a short distance of travel.  If I drove 5 miles at 60 mph and didn’t see any change in temperature or pressure, I would be concerned.  And I really think I need a TPMS when the trailer is moving.

Mossey

[3rd Party Observer TPMS]

10 minutes ago, Carl Hansen said:

Does the rotation of the tires activate the sensors?

Not on my TST system.  I just turn on the monitor and it hunts around the airwaves and finds each sensor.  And then the monitor continues to receive a data signal from each sensor.  If you already have your system, you can go through the pairing sequence before hand and put them on your tow vehicle and test them before you pickup your Ollie.  Just follow the setup instructions and call their support line if you run into any difficulties.

Mossey

[Better mounting materials for water pump etc?]

And one last thought, it may have been an installation error.  So try remounting the pump a 1/2” north, south, east or west of it’s present location with new coarse thread screws.  Put a washer on top off the rubber feet to help control the depth of the screw so it doesn’t penetrate the plastic wood entirely.  If the screw passes through the board completely and hits the fiberglass, it could strip the hole in the board.  Use a screwdriver and not a screw gun so you have a little more feel.  Maybe even try some test screws for practice.  
Kreg pocket hole screws for soft wood might be a solution.  My pump is mounted with lathe screws and hasn’t failed yet.

Mossey

 

[Better mounting materials for water pump etc?]

25 minutes ago, nrvale0 said:

Do you by any chance have a link to the Starboard? When I do a search I get back a surf board brand.

My local Home Depot carries Starboard.

Mossey

[Spare water pump]

1 hour ago, Ospreybob said:

Any one have a suggestion on a spare water pump for an LE II?  The pressure in ours has dropped and I think there may be plastic debris in it.  Thought it might be a good idea to carry a spare.

I think a spare pump is a good idea.  It's better to buy it when you don’t need it with the supply chain issues we are experiencing now.

But I have a few questions about your existing pump.  

Do you experience low water pressure at the kitchen and bathroom sinks and the inside and outside showers as well as the toilet?

Do you have good pressure while using the city water connection or is it only while using the fresh water tank and pump?

If your pump is original equipment, there should be a filter before the pump which would prevent plastic from getting into the pump.  Have you cleaned the filter?

Mossey

 

 

[Battery Box Support Bolts Missing]

Yep, there should bolts in those holes, the vertical angle supports the battery box.  And your right about nuts and washers being MIA.  If you can see through any of the holes, you might try a drift pin to line up one set of holes and get a bolt into the other set.

Mossey