mossemi
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Posts
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Posts posted by mossemi
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Thank you Sherry and Overland! I know that I found this dross very useful and I’m glad I didn’t respond last night. It might have been perceived as snarky.
Mossey
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11 minutes ago, Overland said:
Yeah you don't have the payload for that.
I would if we dumped your tools. Or maybe even Steve if we dumped his spare parts and tools.😉
Mossey
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19 hours ago, mossemi said:
For this purpose, the LC200 has been near perfect. How’s that for snobbery?
I didn’t notice anymore snobbery than the Chevy, GMC, Ford or Ram guy’s exhibit on occasion and a lot less the those 3/4 ton guy’s.I knew I shouldn’t have said that, but I couldn’t resist😇.
Mossey
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22 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:
Yes. That's because mossemi's whole post was within a quote box that he edited to add his own responses on bold. The quote prompt below ( quote. Edit. Options line) will only pick up items outside of a quote box. It won't allow you to quote a quote. 😃 at least, not on my phone.
Sherry
Is the Options selection a Moderator only option? I don’t remember ever seeing that before.
Mossey
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1 hour ago, BackofBeyond said:
For this purpose, the LC200 has been near perfect. How’s that for snobbery?
I didn’t notice anymore snobbery than the Chevy, GMC, Ford or Ram guy’s exhibit on occasion and a lot less the those 3/4 ton guy’s.For the record, if i could have safely towed my EII with my old 16 year old GMC - I would have, spending the $$$ for my newer truck, hurt way to much - snobbery comes at a high price.
But you and I know that the ole Harley dog is worth it.
Mossey
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Mod note:
This topic has been split from another thread, but hopefully it's still possible to understand the point.
The question arose as to how to "quote a quote."
The quote button below a post only picks up new text added by that poster, not anything that is within a quote box that is already quoted .
To include some text from within a quote box, select the copy, and click on the black "quote selection " that pops up near the end of your selected text.
Hope this helps.
Mossey, sorry for messing up this post, but editing yours is the only way I can keep the posts in order.
Sherry
I think the problem with trying to quote my last posting is that it is your post that I quoted and then edited. I’m not sure of that but it’s my best guess until I try it.
Mossey
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Russell, If that’s a double bowl sink, Overland is going to have to remodel the kitchen.😄
Mossey
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You are right, it is Coy and the website is below.
https://happycampersolar.com/about-us
Mossey
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7 hours ago, bhncb said:
If there’s room here for a third prospective, I’ll provide some long-read comments based on experiences towing my LEII with a 2018 LC200, not using the Andersen hitch.
Since “weight distribution” wasn’t being used, addressing rear-end sag using either the Timbren SES or airbags was considered:
What I also noticed is that the TLC 200 already incorporates similar (Timbren rubber spring) technology, as a combined overload spring/rebound bumper inside the rear coils. These however allow for 2-1/2 inches of free travel before they come into play.
When I installed the Timbren SES kit, the original rubber snowmen were resting on the axle also. A call to Timbren resulted in a shorter set of snowmen at my door, and that created about 3/8" of clearance. I will admit to overloading the backend enough to make that gap disappear on occasion without towing.
The very first thing I did to my LC200 was remove the ridiculous third row seats.
It wasn’t the first thing I did, but maybe the third or fourth. And where the heck do you store those seats. It’s a shame there isn’t a market for them.
For this purpose, the LC200 has been near perfect. How’s that for snobbery?
I didn’t notice anymore snobbery than the Chevy, GMC, Ford or Ram guy’s exhibit on occasion and a lot less the those 3/4 ton guy’s.🙈🙈🙈🙈🙈
Mossey
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Once again Professor JD comes through with his in-depth knowledge.
I did forget to say that I ran the stock tires towing the Oliver until it was time to replace them and they were soft and a very sweet ride. I added the Timbren SES while still running the stock tires and that improved the towing experience, but the every day ride suffered. I then replaced them with Michelin Defender LTX M/S tires which improve the towing a little more, but the daily ride again deteriorated.
I do believe that whichever tow vehicle a trailer owner chooses is a comprise between what you what to drive and what you need to drive. I would be first in line to say any full size pickup truck would be a better TV than the LC200. But in my house the War Department is in charge of the appropriations. And she doesn’t like pickup trucks. We do like Toyota products, so my choices were limited and a used LC200 was the default choice. I am happy with it and it does it’s job.
We live in Florida and have only ventured west into Arkansas with the Ollie, so my towing experience is much different than JD's. Our 2020 trip to the Pacific NW was cancelled due to Covid-19, so the elevation and MPG challenges will have to wait for another time. I generally start towing in 4th gear and shift up or down mostly by feel and sound. I always say that camping is a participation sport and any RV adds another level. Towing a trailer is different that driving a class A, B or C, so you adjust as needed. I generally drive with cruise control on the highway and excessive shifting is a sure sign that I’m in the wrong gear. Experience is an excellent teacher.
Mossey
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Yes, I am still towing with a 14 LC200.
No, I never tried towing the Oliver without the Andersen WD hitch because the LC specs require a WD hitch for the weight of the Oliver. It’s not a question of sway, it’s a loading issue.
Yes, I would buy another REDARC brake controller. I bought a P3 to begin with and just couldn’t find a place where it didn’t look like a garage door opener bolted to my dash. So I tried the REDARC and liked the ease of installation and it has performed flawlessly. And the REDARC plugged into the LC with the P3 adapter cable I had already bought.
I use the Timbren SES instead of airbags, but JD has much more off-road experience than I do so his choice of airbags bears consideration.
I also use the 2” Andersen ball with my WD hitch and JD has upgraded to the 2-5/16”.
Early Oliver’s had an extending tongue, but that has not been available for years.
Mossey
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2 hours ago, bhncb said:
On my 2018, 12V outlets are: One below aft dinette seat near PDC and LP/CO detector. One each overhead, above the forward end of the bunks. One each on either side of the nightstand beside the AC outlets.
My 2017 has 2 USB ports next to each 12V outlets as I assume bhncb's does.
Mossey
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Edit: I see others have responded while I was composing this post. And yes I had to unload the groceries and take out the garbage and I’ll admit to not multi tasking very well.
For the newcomers, let me begin by saying that I am an Oliver Fanboy. I may not be #1 but I’m probably in the top 10. So now that you know where I am coming from, please don’t be offended because none is intended.
I certainly understand that not everyone is a handyman capable of doing some of the modifications that are discussed on this forum, but there are plenty of owners that are and will assist in any way possible. Just ask Jan, who bought a used OTT with no RV experience at all and I don’t believe she every drove a truck either much less towed a trailer of any sort. And trying very hard to remain a gentleman, I won’t guess her age because she told us while having dinner at the 2019 Oliver Owners Rally and I forgot it. And I don’t know the whole story, but I do believe some forum members helped deliver the trailer to her and they and other members helped her with towing lessons.And I would guess that if someone camped next to you and they didn’t know how to connect a sewer hose or back into to their camping spot or any of the other things that come up while camping, you or any of us would offer to help in any way we could.
I believe this forum has a wealth of information and knowledge regarding OTT's from the ground up. What I don’t think it has is very much information on the latest trailers being made or to be made. So I think the best place for those questions are with the Oliver sales team. If there are items such as electrical outlets for instance, that are not in the location you want them, then the service department might be able to accommodate you needs. And if they can’t, stop by and we'll figure it out.
So keep your questions coming because for me, communicating about OTT’s is almost as much fun as using it.
Mossey
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24 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:
Thanks for the heads up, Matt. Disappointed but not surprised. We’re going to keep our reservations and enjoy a quiet weekend hopefully seeing some Oliver friends who also will still go camping that weekend at Lake Guntersville. Mike
That means Krunch and I will be camping with you. I believe I have a piece of hardware you are interested in. And I believe Duke and Chris of ShallowGal fame will be there as well.
Mossey
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9 hours ago, Susan Huff said:
Recommendations for spare regulators?
A DIY video for trouble shooting and emergency replacement of offending regulator would be nice for those of us who are less mechanically minded 😀
YouTube has several videos about propane regulators that I find useful.
Mossey
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David,
JD presents a very good, real world example of the load we can place on the Oliver battery system and that it could overload your battery cutoff. Here is some additional information to support his suggestion to remove or upgrade your battery cutoff. The Trojan battery manual provides a cable sizing chart which states that a 4/0 cable, 6' long can support 360 amps. Oliver installed a 4/0 cable with an in-line 250 amp fuse between the inverter and batteries in my trailer and I bet yours is the same. This means the fuse should blow before the cable would fail. Your 125 amp rated battery cutoff now becomes the weakest link in the battery system. It will not blow In an overload condition because it does not have that capability, but it might melt or burn and that is our concern.
I do not always agree with JD, but I know he always has everyone’s safety in mind. And that’s a good thing for the rest of us.
Mossey
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4 hours ago, John E Davies said:
A warning about post type disconnects. Check the amp rating. DavidS’ is rated at 125 amps continuous for use on the Negative terminal only. He has it connected to the small ground wire coming out of the hull, so that is fine. Do NOT connect it to the huge 4/0 inverter ground cable, if you have one. The inverter draws that much or more and can quickly fry this device.
John Davies
Spokane WA
JD, I am confused by your small ground wire comment. The only ground wires smaller than the main 4/0 I remember having were a yellow jacketed 6 AGM, a black 10 AWG from the Furrion solar port I added, the black 6 AWG and the temp sensor for the Zamp controller.
It looks to me that the disconnect is on the left main 4/0 to the cabin/inverter and the right 4/0 is the jumper to the battery behind the battery with the disconnect. What else could the disconnect be controlling?I think the disconnect is in just the condition you are warning about. Maybe DavidS will chime in with a clarification.
Mossey
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Is the AC drain at the rear street side dripping water?
If you remove the return air filter inside the cabin, will be able to see the drain hoses.
Mossey
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It is my opinion that you should not use soldered terminals. A soldered terminal is subject to vibration and it is hard to apply that much heat to that large cable and terminal. Just crimp them if you do it yourself. And let me say that it is hard to crimp in the lower hull if that is what you were thinking unless you have a hydraulic crimper. I would suggest checking the lug hole diameter on the existing terminal and make sure it is the right diameter for the shunt because I do not remember what size is needed. Do not use a 3/8" terminal on a 5/16" bolt. And a local battery shop can make up a short custom cable for the shunt to inverter connection.
I was lucky in that I had to remove my negative cable completely because of a broken cable gland, so all of my cable work took place at the bench. But that means I was also unlucky having to remove that cable because it is a pain.
Mossey
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12 hours ago, KWRJRPE said:
The digital Oliver service manuals and Oliver "how-to" videos (Oliver library) are great, but, can only be viewed with internet connectivity to the outside world. Put onto a DVD, especially the "how-to" videos, and provide with Oliver purchase. For existing owners, I would buy a DVD. I believe the DVD player and television work on battery power?
I have downloaded all of the files relating to my model year to my iPad from the Oliver University for use whenever needed. You can also download videos from the YouTube app for later use.
Mossey
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According to the Victron installation instructions, the battery negative wire goes directly to the shunt and it is the only wire connected to the negative side of the battery and the battery side of the shunt.
What size wire you place between the battery and the inverter is determined by the voltage loss per foot of the connecting wire. Since Xantrex specs a 0 gauge wire 6 feet or less, the stock 4/0 wire is overkill. So you can connect the stock negative wire to the battery side of the shunt and connect the other side of the shunt to the inverter with 0 gauge wire and meet Xantrex specs.It wouldn’t make any sense to reduce the size of the stock 4/0 unless you were really bored or wanted to reduce weight.
And you might want to reach out to AndrewK via PM. He has helped multiple OTTO's with their BMS installs.
Mossey
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Donthompson towed his LEII with a VW Touareg TDI and was really happy with it.
Mossey
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topgun2 also sent this picture and said the fishing has been pretty good.
Mossey
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I got a message and picture from topgun2 tonight and I just has to share it with all. I know that I enjoy his dry sense of humor more than most, but I think everyone should get it.
Mossey
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Rocking Toilet/Broken Flange
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
Edit: 4/29/2022
After removing the broken closet flange in my Oliver I can say that nothing in my response below pertains in any way to the Oliver closet flange and toilet installation.
I have replaced a few toilet flanges in wood and concrete floors and this is the replacement flange I prefer.https://www.danco.com/product/hydroseat-flange-repair/I have removed broken PVC flanges but not ABS. I doubt there is much difference. First thing I do is to stuff a rag into the pipe with a string or small rope attached to prevent debris from falling into the tank. Then I use a Dremel tool to cut the top part of the flange off and then use a small hacksaw to cut the inside of the flange in about 20 places so the pieces I am trying to break off are much smaller, requiring less force to remove. I think the black tank is pretty strong but I haven’t beat on one with a hammer so I real don’t know. I think breaking the tank riser would be catastrophic.Or you could just put in a composting toilet.
Mossey