hobo

I don't have our unit yet but am wondering in the "tool box" are Olivers primarily SAE or metric? My guess is major structural components are SAE but many if not most accessories are metric. Probably need a complete set of both but wanted someone to confirm my suspicions before I start piecing it together.

I seriously considered a BigFoot 25 foot trailer but after actually looking at one, although good sized, it is your traditional wood frame, wood this, wood that...ect. trailer. Wood floors with vinyl covering. It's also wide. When I looked at the underside it was a mess. All in all, a heavy duty version of a traditional maintenance plagued trailer. The unit I saw was less than a year old and there was rust and peeling paint on the frame already needing attention. I was leaning heavily toward the BigFoot until I saw an Oliver. Game over. My wife and I both agreed immediately that the Oliver was a much better product. Also, the BigFoots are built in Canada (west coast) so support would be poor for those of us on the east coast. NO CONTEST! Oliver is a much better unit at the start and will be so for many years to come.

John, I agree. I recently re-wired my BriMar equipment trailer removing all original wires, replacing all lights with LEDs and best of all, replacing the crappy little house-hold metal junction box (yes the factory did that) with the box you used above. Neat, easy to read what goes where and not a box full of wire nuts, weird colored wires, and who knows what. else. Nice job.

We are the proud owners of hull # 414 which was the very last 2018 model produced. We however, won't take delivery until 1 May due to some scheduled medical procedures (hip replacement) that will put a "hitch in my giddy-up" for a couple of months. We're excited to see others taking delivery of their units and having such good luck. We too plan on being at the rally in May.

Absolutely agree with topgun2's assessment. Oliver's first priority must be to ensure a consistent flow of the production of a quality product for their own survivability. I think we can all agree they build a superior product as evidenced by our purchasing them. They in fact offer several factory options when ordering to tailor to the needs of most folks. I personally wanted a 2 5/16 inch Bulldog hitch on my trailer and was told that they wouldn't do that as a factory item during production but I could have them do it as an after-the-fact speciality item. It cost me $261 to have them remove the factory 2" coupling and put on a larger one that they purchased separately. (Now I will have both as I paid for the original one and therefore want it too.) I have zero need for it, but I did pay for it. (Anyone need one?) I have noted too, that Oliver is VERY careful to research from an engineering aspect, any and all changes or upgrades they make to their trailers. I am sure due to the litigious society we live in today, if they added (for instance) a custom shelf extension or a different appliance and it failed for some reason, or someone cut themselves on the bracketry, they would potentially find themselves liable for damages. Not necessarily from the Oliver owner but perhaps from someone visiting the trailer. For a small time operation like Oliver, one such lawsuit could be financially devastating. I can fully appreciate Oliver setting a single standard and sticking to it for production efficiency. In 1909 Henry Ford advised his production and management team that the consumers could have “any color - so long as it is black.” Kind of what we're seeing here. Can't wait to take delivery of our unit this spring and take advantage of all the great ideas the current owners have offered up as upgrades and additions. Hobo

Thanks to all who contributed. This looks like an easy fix if and when the pump (or fuse) goes down. Probably will get a spare to carry with me. It's cheap insurance in my mind.

Love the paper towel holder too. Is there a double faced tape that would secure this well enough to avoid drilling holes? Also, I noted the towel bar across the face of the surface just below the counter top. Can you advise on that also.

Overland: What's involved in replacing the pump? (Not having my unit here to look at, I'm at a disadvantage.) That might not be a bad idea. Are the pumps used in the Ollies readily available? Thanks

John, Quick follow up: When you disconnect everything for travel, do you leave the 90 on the trailer or do you remove everything? It looks in the pic like your cap chain is now affixed to your 90 elbow. Maybe it's not but that is what the pic looks like. Thanks again.

John, PERFECT! Thanks for the pic. I'm a very visual learner. I am ordering the parts as we speak. We take delivery on "2 Hobos" in May but I want to gather enough most of the basics over the winter. Thanks again.

John, Could you possibly snap a pic of your setup? I want to make sure I do this correctly.

Thanks Bill. Per your instructions, I think I just fixed it. Thanks and if someone sees it's NOT fixed, please let me know.

OH, I do in fact tow with pickup truck so space, although not unlimited, is less of an issue for me than some.

Dog gone it; I was sure I filled in my profile because someone made the same suggestion a little while ago. I must be doing something wrong. Can someone give me a refresher on this? Thanks for noticing that. Hobo

I'm sure somewhere on this forum, this subject has been addressed but for the life of me, I can't seem to figure out to do a "search" for select subject matters. In any case, the existing info might be a little dated anyway so I'll just ask the collective for suggestions. Looking for specific recommendations for a grill as we plan on doing as little inside cooking as possible, weather permitting. We do have the external propane ports on our trailer (to be delivered 1 May). Thanks for any insight. Hobo

The other drawback to these types of units is that you can't park it and leave in your vehicle. That is precisely why we decided on a pull trailer vice a motorhome. Hobo

We have not taken possession of our 2018 Oliver yet but this morning, my wife asked if we were going to install a safe of some nature inside the trailer to protect valuables (cameras, binoculars, jewelry, etc.) I know there are "hiding" places within the trailer but can anyone recommend a product and mounting location within the trailer to secure items? Thanks,

Having received great suggestions about items to procure before our delivery of our Elite II, I just realized that I am perhaps mixing apples and oranges in one arena: Many have suggested the CAMCO stackable blocks but I'm beginning to realize that some folks are talking about blocks to put under the levelers while others (I believe) are talking about blocks to put under the wheels/tires. To be honest, I was thinking in terms of the levelers. Do I need to have blocks of some nature for both? Again, I'm a rookie when it comes to travel trailers so pardon the basic questions. Thanks, Paul (HOBO)

Thanks Steve, I was moving in the direction of the Air Lift brand so you just confirmed my thoughts. Did you install yourself or did you have the dealer do that? I am thinking of installing myself. It looked pretty straight forward.

It's been a long thread but to get back to basics, I won't be using an equalizer based on the recommendations early on in this discussion and based on the recommendation by the Anderson rep at the rally last year. (One ton Dodge diesel truck). Based on that, I think John's note above and your suggested height will suffice for my purposes. I will arrive with my hitch set up at 23.5" and then let my airbags level out the trailer and truck which should be minor. If after using it and tweaking ride height for a while, I find any handling issues, I can always move to the equalizer. Thanks again to all. This is a great forum.

John, can you (or anyone else) tell me the height off the ground that the top of my ball needs to be in order for the trailer to be level? Or maybe a cleaner way is to tell me how high off the ground is the top of your hitch when the trailer is level? Thanks.

Thanks Steve. Just wondering which air bags do you use? I'm pretty sure I'm going with the Air Lift brand but also see good things about the Firestone.

OK, now I see his point. You and he might be right. Nice catch. In fact, it would be awhile before we did the ATV and trailer combo thing and we could do some further evaluation after we have the trailer hooked up. Initial trips will be sans the ATV. Thanks for the input. Hobo

Randy, Thanks for the input. Maybe I wasn't clear in my description above. The ATV rack extends about 12" past the tailgate (in the closed/up position). The extended hitch puts the receiver 21" past the bumper which equates to the distance covered when the tailgate is in the open or down position. In effect, the back of the truck is now 21" further back or at the point where the tailgate is open. At that point, the ATV rack is actually about 10" shorter than the tailgate. I see no way that anything on the tongue of the trailer is in jeopardy of getting hit by either the ATV rack or the tailgate (if it was down). Am I missing something here?

Update provided in note above.