hobo

OK, I tried to put a large and a small on the right side and when I do, the curvature of my back wall pushes the crate closest to the door opening into the space on the left where my one large is stored. I cannot get even two larger crates in my Ollie. Only one large and two smalls.

$700 is cheap. I think my cover cost about $30K and we're not done yet.

Never mind. I broke the code. It's the Truma hot water heater. I apparently had it set on the "instant" hot water mode vice the "eco" mode so when set on the instant hot water mode, it routinely cycles water through the system to keep it pre-heated and ready to go. That is the noises I was hearing. I simply switched it over to the eco mode to save propane and to eliminate the extra curricular activy. It does use more water in the eco mode but that's a non-issue since we're hooked up to city water.

First trip since the rally (we've been really busy this summer) and I'm noticing a few odd noises. At night when all is quiet (AC cycled off) I am hearing an intermittent (but predictable) electric motor noise coming from beneath the street side compartment). The sound will last for about 10-15 seconds and then it will be followed by a much softer noise (almost like a water circulation pump) which lasts for about 5-10 seconds. This is happening about every hour or so. We are set up with city water and 30 AMP power. Is this normal OPs for an Ollie or is my trailer possessed?

No, I didn't plug the overflow as I pondered earlier. I'll keep an eye on the clam shell next time I fill the fresh water tank. If it persists, I'll pull the panels on the street side and see if I can see anything leaking on that side when I'm filling the tank.

In the process of sanitizing my fresh water tank, I noted a little bit of water coming out of the clam shell just behind the fill port when I was filling the tank. This would tell me there's something leaking along the route of the hose connection and the tank. I however didn't note anything obvious when I inspected from the inside. Anyone got any ideas?? (I only noted this during one filling but I also wasn't looking either.)

Actually secured a spot at Colt Creek State Park just north of Tampa/south of Orlando. Looks to be very nice and pretty much centrally located to all the things we want to see once we leave St. Augustine. Now let's just hope that Dorian doesn't destroy it.

Hmmm, hadn't thought of that. Might just let a sleeping dog lie. I can always pump the contents out via grey water tank.

OK, I have the Truma which I took out of the loop for the entire sanitization process. In regard to the fresh water tank drain valve, I am wondering if there is any danger in opening the drain valve while filling the fresh water tank from a city water hose: then when the tank is full and the overflow starts to come out, plug the overflow outlet with a stopper thereby forcing the excess to go out only through the bottom drain line?? This would provide some pressure to the drain line perhaps forcing whatever debris might be in there to make its way out. I don't however; want to put undue pressure on the system but at normal 40 psi restricted flow, I wouldn't think that would be a problem. Any thoughts??

In fact, since this issue surfaced when I was doing a sanitization of the fresh water tank, I used the drain for the fresh water tank several times during the process. That however leads to another question: The drain from the tank is also painfully slow so I am assuming that the plastic debris from the tank could also have made its way into the shut off valve too. How would one check and/or clean out that valve to see if its running as free as possible?

OK, Landrover hit the nail on the head. I removed the stainless water line leading to the filter and it was PACKED with white plastic shavings. It was quite the effort getting that stuff out. Pushing a heavy copper ground wire through it (after several attempts to dislodge the debris with my air compressor) only served to pack it in on either end. I took a small drill bit and once the debris was compressed at one end, I (by hand only) twisted the drill bit into the plastics and dislodged it little by little. Then I would compress the debris to the other end and repeat. Took a dozen or so sets of this before I could finally get the heavy copper wire all the way through. Put everything back together and the water flow, everywhere, is excellent using the pump. Shower head also retains the spray function now. Only question I have is "what the heck size are the fitting nuts? 3/4" is too big, 5/8 is too small, 13/16 is too large. I didn;t have an 11/16s on hand. I need tools on board for this. I ended up using vice grips and pliers but not my favorite tools for this job. Thanks again to all who chimed in. HOBO

Landrover, Thanks (again). I too keep getting these 404 errors when I try to access something and then must try again. Not sure what's going on there. It's been happening for a couple of weeks now. I'll report back what I find in the braided line.

I have searched old posts and some touch on my questions but here goes: I sanitized my system for the first time and actually used the "pump" feature for the first in doing so. 1) The pick up function at the rear right where the pump draws from a bucket is painfully slow (at least on my unit). Having said that, I did make a mistake and used a solution of clorox (1/2 cup to 2 gals of water) but I mistakenly used the "sudsing" version which I think was most of my problem. Too much air in the mix. However, assuming I was just using plain water; what would be a reasonable amount of time to expect for a couple of gals to be sucked into the system? 2) Again, using the on-board pump (to drain the system), I opened both the bathroom faucet and the kitchen faucet and the flow was abysmal. More than a trickle but certainly nothing like I would have expected. Even shutting one faucet down, fairly weak. I checked the screens and found them to be clean. I then checked the system water filter near the pump and did find a fair amount of white plastic chips within that filter and cleaned them out. That helps a little. My question is whether this is typical performance for this set up? 3) On the shower head in the bath: Is there a way to have the spray function stay in that mode while showering? On mine, it defaults to the regular stream when I release the button. Is this normal or is mine defective? Finally; is the real fix to replace the shower head in the bath? I noted some recommendations in an earlier thread but the posting was fraught with warnings of having to make modifications. I think the final suggestion was to replace the whole faucet and not just the head but I never saw a link or mention of the whole product to completely replace the bath faucet. Thanks in advance for input. HOBO

Still researching and have decided I am going to try to get into McDill AFB campground. I looks to be very nice and retired DoD with appropriate ID are eligible to use the facilities as space permits. They are booked but have 54 sites always held in reserve daily on a "first come - first served" basis.

We're making a trip south from VA in Nov with stops in Charlotte, NC, Hunting Island State Park (near Beaufort, SC) and then proceeding to the St. Augustine, FL area and then west toward Tampa, FL for a few days before heading back north again. We have reservations in NC and SC but can't seem to find a nice place near St. Augustine (state parks already full of Snowbirds). To that end, we're looking for suggestions for some hidden jewels in that area and then again further west (even to the Gulf coast). This is our first extended trip and we're discovering planning to be in the south in fall and winter takes some pre-planning. Thanks, Hobo

Kathryn (& Chad), Sounds like your plans are progressing well. As far as this fall, we will travel to the Charlotte, NC area first to visit some old friends and then the second stop will be Hunting Island State Park near Beaufort, SC. (I am from Beaufort.) Beyond that, we will head down to the St. Augustine, FL area (camp ground TBD) and then over to the west side of the state (near Tampa) and hang out for a while visiting other folks we know in the region. I say TBD because we are finding that NICE campgrounds in the south are very hard to find on short notice. Short notice being anything less than 6-12 months out. We tried to get into the state park near St Augustine but no dice. We're still looking. Also, toward Tampa we just don't have any insight as to what's out there. Time to find some GOOD software. You might want to start making reservations NOW! We've already realized that we need to make reservations now for any major trips to the west next year. Keep us informed on your plans. Paul and Donna

In fact, we just had the interior slab poured two days ago (Tuesday) so HOBO has not been allowed into it's bedroom yet. As far as travel is concerned, we've been stuck here since coming back from the rally due to other ongoing projects, a bathroom remodel, the arrival of a third grandson, etc. etc. Donna is departing next week for a week at the beach with one of her BFFs and when she gets back, we're heading to southwest VA to camp at Natural Tunnel State Park. Two weeks later, we head back to the beach in NC where we have a house rented for a family vacation. Finally, after all that is done, we've decided to take off around Nov.1st and head down to SC and FL for about three weeks of camping and sightseeing. That will be our first really good trip. Hope you guys are doing well. Sept is almost here. I'll bet you're excited. BTW: Where are you lodging when you get there?

We are in the very northern part of the Shenandoah valley of VA. We're just a couple of miles east of Winchester, VA (interstate 81) in the town of Berryville.

Has anyone checked with Oliver to see who they use for new trailer financing? I believe they do in fact have banks working with them. Perhaps the same banks would do used Oliver financing too.

Nan, Don't stress over it too much. The absolute worst thing you can do is hook up a little, tiny lawn mower trailer and try to back it up. The shorter the wheelbase on the trailer, the faster it reacts (or actually overreacts) to that your input. I have towed trailers all my life and I HATE those tiny trailers. As suggested, I'd rent something at least middle-weight, maybe a 14-16 foot U-Haul and practice with that. You'd be surprised how quickly you get the knack. If you get in trouble backing up, just STOP and pull forward a little and start over. No big deal. Feel free to contact me via PM is you want to further discuss. Hobo (Paul & Donna)

Jason, I, for one, am thankful that you take the time and resources to try to maintain the forum website and wish to applaud your efforts. A little anticipated down time for maintenance is not only acceptable in my mind, but actually mandatory in order to avoid bigger issues down the road which could have much more considerable impact on the forum members. What do they say, "A stitch in time....". During the downtime I can do other things like catch the news, weather or even prepare a cup of coffee or pour a glass of wine for my wife. All good uses of my time. Thanks again for all you and everyone else at Oliver does for us. I continue to be a Happy Camper. Hobo

When we took delivery of our trailer in May, it had just been de-winterized that morning. The water tank had a fair amount of volume in it so Hunter suggested that we leave the fresh water tank drain valve open while driving to David Crockett State Park to empty it. We did close the drain valve under the street side bed when we got to our campsite per his instructions. Since that time we have only used city water hookups for our water but the water tank still indicates it's about half full. The trailer has been sitting at our house for a little while now (very hot outside) so I want to flush this tank thoroughly and want to know the best method. Do I simply open the drain valve and let it empty and then refill with fresh water and empty again? If so how many times do I do this? Or, do I drain, refill and then open the drain valve and turn on the spigots till empty. Experienced opinions greatly appreciated. Thanks, HOBO

OK, I give up. I did a search but am not finding anything specific to the "risers" everyone is talking about. I do know they made an elevated version of the twins some time back but those have been discontinued. Is that what we're talking about here?

[postquote quote=70441][/postquote] John, I too am a little embarrassed to have anything HF branded in my tool inventory but as you inferred, any-port-in- a -storm. Having said that, I am SERIOUSLY considering purchasing the Harbor Freight Predator 3500 generator. It appears to be a quality product and runs about 1/3 the cost of the Honda EU3000i. Even when you pay the extra $150 for the extended warranty. I think Harbor Freight is starting to make a name for itself in a few select lines of items they carry.

[postquote quote=177711][/postquote] I doubt it. I have one 12 x 18 on the left side and two 12 x 12s on the right side. You "might" be able to get a 12 x 18 and a 12 x 12 on the right side but I'll have to check on that and get back to you later today. I think the curvature of the right side of the basement storage toward the front (closest to the door opening) of the right side would preclude placing two 12 x 18s over there even though there is enough length.