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WhatDa

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Everything posted by WhatDa

  1. Google around for "gun dog" training. It works similarly with thunder (another loud noise). One of the biggest takeaways is don't pity/baby your dog during thunder. Put them to work on an activity they enjoy with treats instead. You're reprogramming them to think thunder = play/work time with treats.
  2. Lance, ORV, and north wood are the closest to Oliver in a laminate construction trailer. I cross shopped them and the bigfoot fiberglass etc. They all feature better frames than the rest of the industry and better overall construction than most of the rest of the industry. But once water gets in to any of them, there will be issues. I also wrote off slides after looking at used trailers and even class a’s like the the Allegro bus. None of them have a perfect seal and let in dust and drafts. If your budget sends you to one of those products, I would strongly suggest considering their floor plans that don’t have slides. Looking at used Olivers compared to just about everything else led to to place my order - they hold together much better.
  3. Thanks, happy that I we decided, still not 100% happy with some of the compromises. Standard toilet was a wife decision - she would rather deal with the stinky slinky than the composting toilet bin while I am away. RE: Cradlepoint -- looks great - the main reason for the WeBoost is more for our personal cells. While I feel both of these options are pretty dated at this point, it was more of a caving in to this being the way the factory will be the one poking all the holes and running cables. I am still 50/50 on this just to get rid of two more black switch plates and green LEDs inside the cabin. Glad to hear you liked the awnings - I am still hoping to get down to Hohenwald this week or next just to ensure they are what we want. With powered/manual being the same level of sturdy the powered seemed like the way to go especially with both sides. I'll look into the rod - we definitely need something to keep water away from the toilet and that might be a better multi-use solution. The auto drain install I saw during my demo had the switch in a cabinet, which is where I think 90% of the control panel and doodad switches should go. I was hoping to wire in a relay later to let a raspberry pi control it. If the default is another cutout with a switch and light on the interior, this too is dropping off my list and I will do it myself later. Rear door and bathroom cabinet door mirrors are the only offered, not sure why. Demo had all mirrors and it looked really nice and spacious. I find the level (none) of customization a bit frustrating, but as an industrial engineer I understand why from a quality and training standpoint. I also get the sense that in the past they got burned with customizations that went over budget and didn't meet customer expectations. But at the same time I have issues with some of the design decisions that could easily be fixed. I am going to see what I can get done after "Sale" with the repairs department.
  4. A large part of vinyl's life expectancy is also the adhesive underneath. At a certain point you aren't peeling it off, but scraping and sanding it off. Another alternative is plastidip, it has similar longevity but may be cheaper and easier than vinyl with complex curves.
  5. Anything rated for a weight should be fine at that weight. If I am within limits, then I feel fine. If they are following engineering best practices, it should have a safety factor (for automotive/ground transport usually around 3). Meaning it should be designed to support 3x the forces than those at the design load (7000lbs). Note these included dynamic forces (ie going over bumps/acceleration/decelleration) and not just static forces of sitting in your driveway. If it breaks and its loaded to less than 7000lbs, I'm not going to feel bad - it's a defective part.
  6. Makes sense, and it looks like you already had the hole. I still really hoping as many gauges and switches can be hidden as possible on my build. Otherwise I guess I'll put some art in front of them or maybe an iPad mini with mopeka/victron's apps. Looking to go full Victron on my build with the solar charge controller, multiples charger/inverter, BMS, and maybe even their "smart" batteries. By my math, should be able to fit three of their 200Ah (version "a") batteries in the tray for 7.6 kWh of capacity and ~150 lbs. I'd just rather have a cleaner interior without a bunch of things than 1980s/90s electronics showing everywhere - at least the color gx is better in this regard. If I had my way my trailer would come with everything Victron, all the misc switches/gauges would be behind a door/cabinet/under a bench.
  7. I like the idea of keeping gauges/monitors tucked away and using bluetooth/web interfaces.
  8. Dropped my order. Basically 0 customization available these days so: Standard Floor Plan Utilities 4x Wet Cell Batteries - minimum for Solar package and I'm not keen on the extra cash for the AGMs when I can get some LiFePO4 for nearly the same $. Will upgrade them either immediately or next year depending on tax situation. Solar Package - not ideal, but it's turnkey Inverter - No - Going for a Victron unit and also to insure not another hole for another 1990s style control panel inside. 30lbs propane tanks. Truma Heater - long showers I guess - hope it doesn't break Standard toilet Easystart Autodrain - eventually might be worked into an automation system Decor Frosted cabinet doors with mirrored rear+bath. -- I liked the mirrored all around but that's no longer an option. Counters - Dakota fiber-granite. We actually liked the standard counters for the most part, but the pleather standard tables were not so stellar. Baron floor -- most neutral looking to us Flannel cushions -- wife liked them -- not a fan of the ultra fabric at least in pictures Misc Radio antenna (not sure if I should change this to TV or not - we stream/downlaod 100% of what we watch. Dual Power Awnings - hope that wasn't a mistake - onyx vinyl looked good I guess Weboost 4G-m - already discontinued but still looks good for boundary conditions WiFi Ranger WiSight - Maybe running something integrated in what is probably my future F-150 would be better. Keypad lock - we had an electronic deadbolt in the past and enjoyed the flexibility to go out for a walk/run and not worry about keys. Basement door - probably for dirty laundry Propane Quick Connects - maybe a Blackstone or something is in our future Shower curtain track - at least have the option to put a curtain in Hypervent Anderson no-sway - Trying to avoid going to a 3/4 ton or bigger. Ideally F150 or expedition. The expedition might get away with no WDH We are looking at maybe getting a lot in a few places and then building a "shed"/casita on them with a guest bedroom and washer/dryer and maybe to use for plan B if there is a real cold snap in the winter. Can't wait for Fall to come! Now to decide/find/buy a tow vehicle...
  9. If you are talking about the stress fractures in the frame itself being your worry, then I don't know what trailer would be a viable option. 99.9% of the trailers out there are on Lippert frames of varying specifications but none comparing to the Oliver frame I saw. My visit was with a newer Oliver, but I wanted to cry when looking at the frame - it was that beautiful compared to all the other trailers and even class-a motorhomes. So you get 5 years on the chassis warranty. Also of note the Oliver looks like one of the only trailers that could have the body pulled off the frame, repair the frame, and put the body back on if that were necessary. The body itself has the limited lifetime warranty, which is the part I would most be concerned with. But even there, fiberglass is repairable.
  10. For the super duty the 6’ is the short bed. Personally the last thing I want for off-roading is a giant, heavy truck. I am more excited for pro trailer assist making its way to superduty.
  11. I've been looking for a Generator for backup power or boon docking days. There are alternatives to Honda, but Honda is recognized as the best player with Yamaha #2. As the other Steve and Señor Overland said, the 2200i is enough for the AC from everything I have read (still ollie shopping). Also note that the 2200i can parallel with the "companion" giving you double the power if you want it -- so there is room for expansion if you do not find it meets your needs. On 2200i vs 3000iS: Weight 47lbs vs 131lbs - two 2200i weigh less than one 3000iS Noise: 3000iS was quieter at any given load Runtime: 3000iS has double the runtime at about a 40-50% greater burn rate (it has a ~3x bigger fuel tank) Start: 3000is has electric - but if you can lift 131lbs, you can probably hand start either of these - they start super easy My conclusion: if I could have the 3000iS permanently mounted someplace, it might make the better option for when I am not around. I don't think I want 131lbs on the tongue and not sure I want it right outside the bedroom window, so probably looking at a 2200iS. Further, I am looking at charger/inverters that can pull from the battery at peak demand, and then recharge the batteries when the AC cycles off.
  12. For the front dinette a sofa is the leading idea. Or maybe even a loveseat and a wardrobe if it comes to that. For the rear dinette I really want to make that the main dining and sleeping area. One of the spots we have backs into a lake with a sunset view. Combining the fold over bed with a table mechanism like this: will result in a pretty quick conversion while at the same time we are not sitting on bed surfaces and the cushions are tuned for sitting - at least the two sides of the U. The mechanism has the added benefit of supporting the table at the middle while it is in the down position. We will lose out on being able to store things under the bed but having that view will be worth it.
  13. Hope they do better with the diesel Silverado than the power stroke f150. With the power stroke you lose a lot of payload.
  14. Ahh yes that makes sense now. I would love for an “LE3” or something with a front bed and rear dinette. That said for the amount we are gone it should work. I’d love a larger trailer but none of them are built or insulated well enough except maybe the outdoors rv/Northwood lines. But I still don’t want a huge trailer with slide outs.
  15. [postquote quote=175827]Ya gonna need a bigger Ollie!![/postquote] For the propane? It will be a larger tank off the trailer that the gas company comes and fills. For the inside? I kind of agree, a few extra feet and more efficient use of space would work well for me. The dual dinettes still bother me - so the front one may still be repurposed.
  16. WDH = Weight Distribution Hitch. Necessary for most tow vehicles other than 3/4+ ton trucks and some euro SUVs for anything with more than 500 tongue weight or 630 tongue weight for the newer Expeditions. https://andersenhitches.com/Catalog/andersen-nosway-weight-distribution-hitch.aspx
  17. Any chance you can just hang around TN longer? If you find an issue on July 3rd, what are the chances that they don't have the people/parts to fix it until the 8th (Monday)? What if you find something in your first overnight? I am guessing there aren't going to be many, if any, people at the factory the 4-7 of July. If it were me, I'd reschedule or chill around TN for a while. Congrats and good luck!
  18. I looked on RVs of America at the US HQ19 - nice. Now they just need to bring the 21 floor plan and insulate/heat the bottom. I am a huge fan of the rear dinette area.
  19. Raspy, (little off topic) Will be very interested to hear your impressions of the Black Series. The I had been eyeing the new HQ21 but wasn't sure of the build quality and it doesn't appear that it would work well in winter. Everything else about it checks off the right boxes: suspension, separate/dedicated sleeping area, lounge in back, pretty serious kitchen, outside storage, rear lounge with big windows, and it should do alright on washboard. Oh and the door is on the wrong side...also which direction does the toilet flush?
  20. You put 21k miles a year on your truck. Depending on conditions, local fuel prices, how much you tow, how fast you tow, that represents anywhere from $100 to $1000 in fuel savings for the Diesel at today's prices - over the next 5 years. Diesels cost $10,000 more new and a lot more to maintain. Plus you need to keep topping of the Urea to not end up in limp home mode. So from a financial perspective it doesn't pay off. I know for the price difference you can get a Lariat with the Ultimate pack compared to an XLT with no options on it. While the diesels are rated higher for towing in many cases, the big block and all the emissions gear weigh more and so you have less available payload - which is what most exceed first. Where diesels do shine is when towing, they deliver much better MPG, which means more range between stops. If you are trying to make it across Texas as fast as possible in a headwind, you probably want a diesel. Other than that, the economics don't work out. If I _needed_ a diesel, I would look at a 2006-7 Chevy LBZ. But those are enjoying some really nice resale values now in good condition with lower miles. As John said, there are some new trucks on the Horizon that are definitely worth waiting to see how they stack up if you can. Especially if your LLY is running well and not overheating. 2021 F150, 2021 Tundra, the 2020 F-Series with the 7.3 gas, 2020 2500HD with the 6.6 gas, and more. There are rumors for Hybrid power trains for Ford and Toyota, that if they don't eat into the payload, could make for some ridiculous 1/2 truck efficiencies. Bonus if it plugs in and I can run to the train station and back without paying for fuel. If Ford or Toyota's next 1/2 tons can pull Ollie without a WDH, they may take the place of the SD/HD trucks in my book too. For now I am kind of infatuated with the Expedition, but we'll see how the test drive goes.
  21. The 200lbs tank will be external for home base/winter time camping - something the gas company delivers. Not something I am going to tote around.
  22. So after some more research and thinking, the rear bed design is probably going to work best. If the bathroom door were a pocket door, that would make a front bed more workable, but still less than ideal. The biggest upgrade that would my rear bed work better is a faster way to move the table from bed support to table mode - so still doing a little research around that. As far as major issues I want to work out they are probably: 50A service for basement heater, the ability to shutoff propane in the winter and heat the inside (whether through mini-splits or resistive heaters) as well as not having to get the wife to power manage as much. Even with 50A service, hot water will be an issue as only some of the biggest diesel heaters actually use both phases for 50A service - but I'd still like to be able to run the Ollie in an enclosed space like a hangar or garage on shore power alone. Ideally, at a minimum I could get a custom harness that doesn't have all the outlets daisy chained and maybe some help with the plug on the outside and sizing the fiberglass around the inside breaker panel. Increased solar - while Zamp isn't ideal, I'd probably be happy with an extra 3-port up top and two ports on the side and make it work. Even better if I can do something for the side ports that can handle more current. Lithium batteries - still looking at how I'd like to do this in terms of pack voltage and which components, but in the end I think I am going with unmanaged batteries, and getting rid of the Zamp controllers, but using the "plumbing" that Zamp provides. Might just stick with the AGMs for the immediate future. I'd like to ditch as many of the interior control panels as possible. Thermostat, water heater control, and light switches excepted, I would prefer everything else to be mounted under the dinette seats or inside the cabinets (charge controller display, radio, inverter display, tank monitor, etc..). Speaker grills in white at least and maybe even just gone. From there I am looking to add a Raspberry Pi or something to consolidate sensor info from Victron, Seelevel, and Mopeka into one app - looking at HomeBridge to make it work with the Apple Home app. Might even add some remote control (lights off, awnings closed, etc...). Maybe a single tap turns everything off, shuts the bathroom drain, retracts the awnings, and gets us ready to roll. Power cost of about 2-5W. Most of the RV industry stuff in this space is hot garbage so will have to roll my own solution. The only thing I would need from Oliver here is making sure the Seelevels are RVC compliant or the new bluetooth versions if those ever come out. Where I've relaxed a little: We'll go with the recommended portable induction - maybe not as high power as a 240V top, but being able to cook while Boondocking will be a plus, as will being able to take the portable cooktop outside when wanted. Storage - I think a service body truck or nice SUV would probably be ideal. Things that are still a moonshot: Some sort of LE3 option -- I don't know that I even would need much size growth as a different use of space. This would gain maybe a tiny washer and another wardrobe or something. Exterior window hatches for extreme cold/heat/rain. Other stuff that is going to be easy, but still needs figuring out: What all I buy from Victron To Truma or not to Truma Convection How to plumb in a 200lb propane tank
  23. I have looked at the MorRyde IS system when looking at previous trailers. It seems to have very positive feedback, but mostly on-road from larger trailers. The upside is each axle has its own springs and it comes with really good brakes. Only 2-3" of travel still, but probably a more controlled bottoming out from their rubber springs. Cost is about $6000 installed at MorRyde in Elkhart, IN. For off-road applications where the current suspension doesn't work, I don't think the IS or any is really going to help with capability (I don't think I am going to get the trailer to crawl over rocks while towing), so much as maybe improving the quality on rough/washboard surfaces.
  24. Any reports from the field on the convection option? How well does it work? We use our Panasonic Microwave/Convection/Steam device for just about everything and our oven sits dormant in our house.
  25. 2020 LE3 - I wish. Probably a 2019 or 2020 LE2 depending on life/what Oliver comes out with in the next few months. That manual is the information I was looking for. Just trying to figure out what the base harness looks like for my potential 50A service upgrade - sadly it looks like all the 110 receptacles are all on the same 12ga wire, so putting some of the outlets on another breaker is going to be either a special build or a fishing expedition to run new wire.
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