C&MCurrie

Well, I took on the challenge of replacing the bearings and races in my 2021 Elite I. It was actually not bad at all. Took a couple of hours on the first wheel because I was careful to check and double check each step to make sure things were correct. . Second went much faster. The original set of bearings appeared fine and had “China” imprinted on them but don’t know enough to comment on their quality. I used Timken products all the way around along with Redline CV-2 grease. Repacks will apparently be even quicker since the races aren’t removed and replaced. Anyway, definitely a DIY project if you’re physically able.

Seems like a worthwhile addition. What size angled Zerk fitting do I need and can the caps be purchased in smaller quantities? Looks like Amazon has only a 50 count of the yellow ones. I have the Elite I and as far as I can tell, I only need 6 caps. Thanks

I tapped into a previous exterior 12v outlet mod. Much easier than fishing wires between hulls.

Here are screen shots of the items I purchased off Amazon. You’ll also need spade connectors to attach wires to switch. I already had those, but they too are available on Amazon. Also some hose clamps or pex crimp rings with crimping tool are needed.

No, I never saw instructions. It’s fairly straightforward if you’re a bit of a handyman. Hardest part is maneuvering in the limited space where valve is located.

I found accessing the fresh tank drain valve in our Elite I quite cumbersome since we leave the bed set up 100% of the time. We have the optional latex mattress which is heavy and awkward to move. So, I copied what others have done and installed an electric valve operated by a toggle switch. Works beautifully! BTW, when I removed the manual valve and inspected it, I saw a large piece of plastic debris wedged inside. Probably explains why it took so long for my tank to drain. Used the US Solid 3 wire electric valve and SPDT on/on toggle switch with flip cover to prevent accident activation of valve. All parts purchased through Amazon.

We use this one. Works great and is very compact for a compressor type dehumidifier.

Well, I explored the possibility of installing my inverter in the rear upper corner as Oliver does, but wasn’t comfortable with that location. So, after some rearranging of wiring, I managed to make a suitable area for it to be mounted below the dinette seating. It will power a dedicated outlet under the bed. I don’t plan on using it much, but as the say it’s better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

I want to install a 1200w inverter in my Elite I. Can’t seem to find enough room under the bench access panels near batteries. Where does the factory install the optional Xantrex inverter during construction in the smaller Elite I?

Everything is done from the outside unless you opt for the defrost/air circulation fans mounted inside the refrigerator on the ceiling.

Is it permissible on this forum to offer up our driveway for a couple of overnight stays to fellow Oliver owners who might be traveling through our area? We are contemplating being hosts on Boondockers Welcome but haven’t committed yet. We have a large driveway with 30 amp rv receptacle and water, and live 2 miles from an awesome beach.

You’re exactly right. Doesn’t matter what heat source is selected. Protects system when past the absorption refrigerator level requirements. Again, I installed it for peace of mind extra level of safety. Worth the cost in my opinion. If, in the future, when the frig needs replacement, I’ll will suck it up and pay for a 12v compressor refrigerator. Apparently with the Elite I, the shower wall has to be removed in order to remove and replace refrigerator. I’ll happily pay Oliver to do it. Not something I want to attempt myself.

The fans are not weather proof as far as I know. However, I have not seen a significant amount of water entering through the frig vents while traveling in rainy weather. When washing the trailer I try to be careful with hose and not direct water upward into the vents. When installing upper fan I used 20 gauge wire to extend the leads off the ARP module to the fan. Yes, when sitting under the awning the fans can be heard occasionally. More so on very hot days. Not too annoying though. There are 2 temperature sensors. One is mounted against one of the horizontal tubes that zig zag on rear of refrigerator and the other is behind the heat shield on I guess what you would call the boiler tube. The instructions are very specific where to mount probes on the tubes. Especially the boiler tube. Have had the system for a year now with zero issues. After installation, there is nothing else that needs to be done. Comes on automatically when refrigerator is powered up.

Installation was easy. Hardest part was deciding where and how to mount vent fans. Used double sided VHB tape along with a long screw for added support on the upper fan and zip tied lower fan on vent panel. Would liked to have centered lower fan left to right but space constraints dictated mounting to the left.

I installed the system last year as an extra measure of safety. Added benefit are the 2 fans that come with it , one mounted in upper and lower outside vents. I opted for 2 additional interior fans that help keep internal temperature uniform. So far, so good. Fridge has operated flawlessly even in very hot weather.