2008RN

My Dexter leafs on the rear were flat towards the rear of the trailer. I ordered the Alcan springs. I had problems with Alcan’s shackles. The first set they sent me the holes were oversized and the knurls on the bolts just slid in. The second set were the right size, but they bent shackles when they punched the hole. The end of the bolts after being pressed in were about .230 out of alignment which makes assembly impossible. The Dexter shackles and bolts are .005 inch or less for alignment making assembly easy. Alcan said they would let me know when they figured out how to produce shackles that would work and that was on Oct 15th. I’m still waiting. I put the original Dexter shackles back on and set hummi back on the ground. The bottom of the second leaf to the ez-flex measures around .040 inch universally. Way too close to take her for a spin. I've gotten busy with a small remodel job on a wall into the kitchen. I need to get it done for the new fridge to fit. Once I get the stove and fridge set up, I will shift back to the shackles, if Alcan has not came up with a solution, I will buy the metal and make my own, I have a buddy with a vertical mill. If / when Alcan replies back to me I will update you. The 2000# Dexter leafs are starting to look a reasonable solution. I’m sure I will be happy when I get this back on the road. glad I haven’t retired yet I’d be a little pissed to not have the trailer available for a couple of months.

Good troubleshooting, and thanks for the info. Something to check this winter while hummi is down for the winter

Jim, Don't feel bad. I spent about 10 minutes on my 17" BS try to put the grease catcher under inside the grill for travel. I never figured it out.

I use a 12volt pump, kind of cheap and manual, but I hook it to the output for dumping, and then connect to the spray port on the black tank. I do have a fine mesh filter on the pump so no debree gets stuck in the sprayers. I have used it when we are boondocking greater than 4 days.

I have a narrow 90 degree turn getting into my driveway, then I have to make a 60 degree turn to the opposite direction right away. The RV port is only 25 ft from the road. I practiced probably 20-30 times backing up normally into the spot had chosen before we built Hummi's home. I had the location marked out with cones and paint. I got it into the area twice without going out of bounds. I decided that putting the trailer through a wall greater than 90% was not going to cut it. I was wanting a heavy duty bumper to stop deer ruining the front front end. That settled it, and I purchased a BuckStop front bumper with the hitch built in. It is the slickest way to park the trailer. I can park the trailer within a couple of inch of where I want it every time. The only thing I wish was the hitch was off set to the passengers side by about a foot. This would make it easier to look around the trailer from the drivers seat. I also use the hitch to carry bicycles on the front.

I like the deadfall hammer I think I have a 2 pounder. I also have a few large brass punches that I could use with the sledge. I am starting to think it would be fun to borrow the Orielly's ball joint press. I have never used one.

Yep, I have a hammer and a mounted vice. I use to be a machinist, and sometimes my mind gets stuck in using proper tools. Big ole hammers and vices just remind me of blacksmithing and welding. I almost thought of spending a few hundred bucks on a Table top arbor press that I could get the 10" drums under for pressing the bearings, but then I figured I was starting to get carried away.

Do you press them in place? If so, what is the best way to do this at home without a press?

After many discussions with my wife, and searching on the internet. We finally came up with Nose art (decal) for the front of the Oliver. From this time forward she will be called Hummi

I use the "Collar" parked or driving. The chains are locked up when parked. I use the "Proven Industries Hitch Lock" I would like to replace the Puck lock that came with it with a Conical Puck lock so it can't be drilled out. I also have a 6 foot Abus hardened chain that I put through the Rims on one side when parked. Everywhere the I need a paddle lock I have used a 3/8 Abus granite harden lock and all locks are keyed a like. They are difficult to pick, and break. I know this may be overkill and nothing is fool proof, but the more difficult to steal, greater chance they will move on to an easier target. When the truck is attached, I have an Alarm system, and a way to keep from the truck from starting. A good thief can steal the Ford 7.3 super duty trucks in under 30 seconds. If the Oliver is attached and you are in a store you could lose everything. I am sure there are other tow vehicles that are just as vulnerable.

Thanks e everyone for your feedback. I pulled the trigger and got one from Dick’s.

Considering a 17” or 22” black stone. I have a rear storage container but it only can only hold something that is 20.5 inches front to back. The online info is greater than 20.5 for both grills. Questions: 1. Does the grease tray come off the back? 2. If the grease tray does come off how much does the save me in depth? fyi: I’m looking at stripped down models without hoods.

This bull dog shock is a direct replacement for the Monroe 555001 https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007 I've only have 300 miles on the Bulldogs shocks, They are so much better than the Original Monroes. I bought the trailer 10 months old with 5K miles on it. The original owner basically made 2 trips. One from the factory to Idaho via California, and another trip back to California. I followed the trailer for about 40 miles right after we purchased it. I remember thinking it odd that the trailer like to swayed side to side going down the freeway, but then never thought about it again. Then 2 years later and 2,000 miles, the trailer was moving everywhere on a rougher 2 lane paved road and truck/trailer became difficult the manage. I thought I would give the Bull Dogs a try. The Bull Dogs were the price was about the same as the Monroe 555001 online. Nothing ventured nothing gained. I figured if I bought the Monroes they would be trash in a year to two years depending on the miles I drove. If the Bulldogs make it 2 years then they will have out lasted the Monroes. Next spring I plan on new springs before we take our first big trip cross the nation.

There is not a lot of in depth information on the 555025 shocks, but here is a link for the 555025 https://www.shockwarehouse.com/products/monroe-555025-gasmagnum In my searching I found someone that had replaced the 555001 with a Bilsteins 24-064194, B6 series shock. The following link talks about the installation, and problems that were overcome. It is an interesting read. I searched for the 24-064194 and it appears that Bilstein no longer makes this shock, no one seems to have them available. The down side if you can find them they are very pricey https://heartlandowners.org/threads/bighorn-3260el-shocks.59777/

When I was looking for replacements for the 555001, I did find a Monroe 555025 RV shock which had a higher rating. The only problem was the minimal compression length was 3/4 of and inch longer and I did not know if it would still work in our application so I opted for the Bull Dog 555001 replacement instead. I had found on another site where someone had used the 555025 to replace a 555001 without problems, but it was not for an Oliver