Ronbrink
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Posts
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Posts posted by Ronbrink
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17 hours ago, Boudicca908 said:
This worked! I first used a paper clip to work on the little ball in the zerk, and felt it loosen up, but the grease didn’t flow until I drove the other (rear) tire up onto the trailer aide tandem tire ramp.
That accomplished, I wanted to remove the zerk and go down the mountain to the hardware, to try toQUESTION (1) ascertain the right size zerk (and buy some extras).
I can’t get the zerk off. I have an assortment of adjustable wrenches, but none of them work. And I can’t tell
QUESTION (2) which way to turn the zerk to remove it.
QUESTION (3) recommended tool to use for the zerks?
Can anyone answer these 3 questions?
Q1 - A word of caution, my 2020 OLEll had two different thread size zerks; specifically 1/4-28 and M6x1mm. Other than a couple of 90° at EZ-Flex top, I choose to replace the stock straight ones with 45° angle zerks to ease servicing. I ordered mine from Grainger’s.
Q2 - Turn counter clockwise (left) to loosen, clockwise (right) to tighten.
Q3 - An adjustable wrench will have too much play and you will end up rounding the bolt head. Use the appropriate box end wrench, based on the thread type as to whether a Standard or Metric wrench is needed. Likewise a proper socket may suffice, but I like being able to see the zerk when removing.-
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10 hours ago, csevel said:
This go around, I'm trying the Valvoline Extreme on the bearings and zerks.
Good choice!
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9 hours ago, John Dorrer said:
She provided attendees, Hull #, and site #
Exactly, one can always use the Hull # to cross reference individual ‘signatures’ on the forum for additional information.
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I use Red Line CV-2 grease in a jar for wheel bearings and Lucas Red ‘N’ Tacky grease for the suspension. Amazon purchases, free delivery.
Note: A jar of the CV-2 will grease bearings on two axles and then some.
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Any update on the rally, planned activities, etc.?
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11 minutes ago, jd1923 said:
Front of TV is always the better solution! You have them with you when detached and the extra front weight counter-balances the hitch weight.
Anybody with a 1.5” hitch want to buy an OTT built 2” hitch? PM me and I could bring it to the Texas Rally.
To be clear I only travel with the ebikes on the front-mounted rack within a park or to areas of proximity, not en route to a destination. Once camp is setup and TV disconnected, the ebikes are then deployed.
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On 12/24/2023 at 4:04 AM, MobileJoy said:
If the voltage drops to around 104V, the EMS will cut off shore power. If the Xantrex is drawing a lot of power (as it will by default when charging your batteries), with an unstable shore power source this could bring down the voltage to the point of EMS shutdown. This removes the power drain and allows the voltage to rise. Once it is sufficient, the EMS cuts back in and eventually powers the Xantrex. The resulting battery charging draw will bring down the voltage, etc., etc. I had this happen to our trailer at a campground that had unstable 30A shore power.
I recently experienced this at my storage facility, thanks for your explanation of the probable cause!
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2 hours ago, TimD said:
We may still bring the EquipD with us, empty and on the back of the LE2, so that we can move it to, and use it on, the back of the TV for day trips away from base when the LE2 is detached.
A similar QuikrStuff bike rack is mounted on the front of the TV when traveling; and used in like manner when at camp, as well as securement and protection. Our folding ebikes are transported under cap in the truck bed.
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23 hours ago, jd1923 said:
A “growing number” or just you John? We’ve heard you a good 3-4 times.
You’ve heard it from me a time or two before and probably will a time or two again, “don’t thread on Crazy Horse”!
NOTE: To set the record straight, the term ‘You’ve’, as used above, denotes everyone on the forum and not meant to apply to any single individual!
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On 7/24/2024 at 3:23 PM, jd1923 said:
The Florida company Inverter Supply
Which model did you get? I see two at $997, models ending in 110 and 120.
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On 7/17/2024 at 1:54 PM, rideadeuce said:
On high it was pulling 1200 W vs 1800 W for the PII.
Hope the Atmos 4.4 is working out well for you! I ordered one yesterday, should be shipped next Monday. I went back, but could not find what size Dometic Pll you had, was it the 13.5k? I’ll be replacing an 11k, which pulls 1400-1500W. A performance satisfaction update would be much appreciated, thanks.
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1 hour ago, CRM said:
Thanks for the info and pics. My older Ollie doesn't have that notch and I have to keep my current waste nozzle stowed away instead of in the bumper. Looks like I can notch mine as shown in your pics and be done with that added hassle.
It would be easy to do. Mine came notched on both sides; driver side benefits the sewer hose hookup, passenger side the propane quick connect and now the hose nozzle as well.
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I’m in the ‘full tank’ camp, I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it! Also carry a LifeSaver Jerrycan and case of bottled water.
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Bed Scrunchies are your friend. Shown using standard twin sheets on our KTTs. Stand on edge to make up. No problem when accessing hatch areas, sheets don’t get “messed up”!
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22 hours ago, Ronbrink said:
the coils are rigid enough to hold shape when stowed and deployed, no frustrating snaking around
Quoting myself to make a point. The first pic is a 20’ section (when extended) of RhinoExtreme sewer hose, very difficult to stow since it bulges out (snakes) when attempting to contain in the rear bumper compartment. The second pic is the same extended length of Waste Master sewer hose, much more manageable! And yes, the nozzle end can be rotated to position the valve handle facing upward, thus allowing it to easily pass through the notched (wider) opening at the compartment end. Also shown is the gray water hose with end valve.
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15 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
how do you get a smooth bore hose from a collapsing hose?
Firstly, if the hose is collapsing there must be an extremely tight system to ensure no leakage. Secondly, there is a measure to prevent collapsing when deploying. Thirdly, the coils are on the outside, which makes for a smoother inside. This is a costly setup, but 1) the coils are rigid enough to hold shape when stowed and deployed, no frustrating snaking around, 2) a 5.5’ section will expand to 20’, 3) the 90° end nozzle has a valve handle to better manage the dump process, and 4) the cam lock will not loosen or come off during deployment and/or use as will the typical bayonet style if care is not taken, think accidental unintended release…..oops!
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12 hours ago, GraniteStaters said:
On the Lippert, when I stretch the hose to its entire length, the vacuum was so pronounced to cause the beginning of the hose to collapse.
Crack the hose terminal valve open a bit to relieve the internal pressure to prevent collapsing, makes deployment to required length much easier.
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On 7/30/2024 at 7:55 AM, GraniteStaters said:
I also received an adapter that can be used to permanently modify the Oliver,
A look at my permanently installed black tank connection; requires cutting off the bayonet coupler and gluing on the cam lock fitting.
View of waste hose connected; allows for rear bumper to be closed.
However, I usually keep an end cap fitted with a hose for gray water management; the hose has a valve at its’ terminus. Another benefit, the clear silicone hose serves as a sight glass in the event of a black tank valve leak.
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Sourced replacement fuses on eBay, best to carry with!
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21 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
Agree. I wonder how much this tall unit and base adds to the standard height of the trailer. For some this could be an issue as well.
Perhaps @rideadeuce captured that information and can provide a measurement.
EDIT:
@Geronimo John, the Atmos 4.4 unit height measures 11.14” and 12.17” installed, if I’m interpreting the Technical Details correctly.
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10 hours ago, Boilermaker Chemist said:
Thanks for the suggestion. I have to admit, I kind of like that approach. What is the hardware that you used and where did you buy it? I guess your curtain doesn't cover the door - do you ever get any leaks into the main cabin?
Amazon purchases, as shown below. I choose the clear acrylic rod as to not obstruct light from the under cabinet fixture. There is enough room to flip the light switch with an upward facing open hand. I choose clear plastic shower curtain rings, as well. A change of clothes or other apparel can be staged on the toilet seat underneath the curtain when showering. If one has the composting toilet it would be well protected from moisture. The curtain can either be left draped over or tucked behind the toilet to dry. I find it best to squeegee the wet surfaces, then leave the vent fan on with the door closed during the drying process to reduce humidity in the cabin. I have never had a problem with the door leaking during a shower.
ADDED TIP: Hooks are placed to each side of the upper cabinet, one for his and her hand towels, and the other to stage a squeegee for the after shower cleanup.
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14 minutes ago, jd1923 said:
Now that you have the highly capable Victron charger, if it were me, I would bypass the Xantrex charger if at all possible. Use its inverter function only. As you wrote, "soon after showed erratic output." This could be caused by the Victron charger sensing amperage supplied by the Xantrex charger.
Generally, only one or the other will come on given the situation. Upon occasion in hot weather when A/C is needed while in storage the situation arises, as described above, wherein both chargers are engaged simultaneously. As programmed, the Victron will turn off at 95% SOC and the Xantrex will continue to 100% SOC. Worst case scenario, I’ll have to upgrade to one of the Victron 3000W inverters if the Xantrex inverter and/or charger completely fails! Oh Darn!
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6 minutes ago, jd1923 said:
Maybe it's only lead-acid chemistry where you have to be worried re puching to many amps. @Ronbrink thanks for the chart!
If you would go back and reread my last, I may have been editing it as you were sending this. But then maybe not!
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1 hour ago, jd1923 said:
@Ronbrink 108A is a lot of charge amps. Is there a point where it can be too much for your 460AH battery bank? Can you setup your Xantrex to be inverter only? I will soon be a LiFePO4 newbie with much to learn!
I don’t know how to answer your question other than by example. The attached chart from Oliver shows a ‘Charger Current’ setting of 150A supplied by a Xantrex 3000W (3.0) unit in an Elite ll equipped with either a 390 or 640AH Lithium battery package. For Elite l with a 260AH battery bank and Xantrex 2000W (2.0) unit, 100A. I should note however, that my stated 108A combined charge current (110A minus a couple amps of draw) was not sustained for long and soon after showed erratic output in the 38 to 107 amp range. When checked, the Victron charger was steady, whereas the Xantrex output varied.
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Dexter EZ-Flex zerks not accepting grease
in General Discussion
Posted
@Boudicca908 Alternatively, one can take their zerks to most any hardware store and use a convenient thread gauge (SAE/Metric) to determine thread size, then order online or purchase at a retail store exactly what is needed. Grainger’s offers stainless steel zerks and protective caps; no worry of rust and corrosions, or road grime with the two. As a side note, once the thread size is determined also get a matching nut to ‘thread test’ the other zerks as removed; if the nut doesn’t easily thread on then a different thread size zerk will be needed in that instance.
