Ronbrink
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Posts posted by Ronbrink
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@topgun2: WELL DONE!
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On 6/25/2024 at 2:45 PM, jd1923 said:
It appears today most models are inverter/charger. Please allow us to understand your reasoning. I can see an inverter failure in an inverter/charger combo unit could keep the charger from working as well. But they should be designed to run and fail independently. Do you have other reasons. This is a good thought to consider and we're all here to learn.
Case and point, my Xantrex 2000 is an inverter/charger. The inverter works as intended, however the charger (80A) only has an initial charge cycle which comes on when first plugged into shore power. Since there is no further charging capability, it necessitated my going to the storage facility almost weekly to reboot said charging cycle by unplugging from shore power and reconnecting. This task was really worrisome with the former four 6V Trojans to prevent discharge below 50% SOC, but not as much now with my 460 Ah LFPs that can take a deeper discharge and have double usable amp hours. To rectify the inherent problem, I recently installed a Victron Cerbo and 30A Smart Charger to assume the task of keeping the battery bank SOC in check. On Auto Start, if my SOC drops below 60% the charger is activated and set to turn off when 95% SOC is reached. There is also a Manual Start and Off mode; all done by way of the VictronConnect app.
NOTE: I did talk with a Xantrex tech about the charging aspect and he confirmed it was not operating correctly; he recommended purchase of a new unit.
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2 hours ago, jd1923 said:
If you want to run it via inverter, say for testing purposes, you merely have to trip the 20A breaker for the air conditioner. The KISEA will sense no shore power voltage and connect the inverter to the A/C load wiring.
My only real dilemma is when in storage on shore power and I want to run the A/C when doing maintenance or cleaning, which the facility’s 15A shore power will not allow. Before LFPs, I would run a generator on propane to enable use of the A/C, now the process is much simpler! When needed, I generally just unplug the power cable and run the A/C via the inverter. Away from storage I always have 30A service, either at home or a campsite, and can run the A/C on shore power. The above described scenario is only one reason for wanting to be able to run the A/C on battery, but the primary reason was for use when underway during stops for rests and/or meals. You know the gig!
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26 minutes ago, jd1923 said:
The penguin is too much pull on a 2KW inverter.
My Dometic 11,000 BTU A/C with Micro-Air EasyStart works fine with the Xantrex 2000 in my unit. The max run time thus far on inverter is 2 hours.
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14 hours ago, jd1923 said:
OK so this is going to get strange! I went out to test the ATS today and IMHO the testing shows a bad switch. An ATS must have a fail-safe design in that if it's unplugged, or the inverter fails, or whatever condition, the AC input line to output/load is connected, a closed pass-through connection must be the default position (should always be able to run via shore power).
For whatever it’s worth, I’ve only run my A/C via the inverter when not hooked up to shore power. Not sure it can even be done when hooked up.
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On 6/21/2024 at 5:26 PM, JDB_Traveler said:
I did verify that the Lights Main (10A) and Cabin Lights (5A) fuses were good.
If you haven’t resolved the issue, check the backside of the fuse box where individual wiring is connected via spade connectors. I recently lost power to the fridge and found the connector leading to its’ respective fuse loose. Not the best pic, but shows the wire bundle to look for; the red wire on the top goes to the fridge, which will require a new female spade connector to remedy.
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4 hours ago, Jason Foster said:
I've been planning to throw together a "tool kit" for my Oliver.
I put these tool kits together soon after buying my 2012 Chevy 1500 4x4, which now serves as my current TV; where the Oliver goes, they go! The small individual pockets have assorted sockets and driver bits, as well as other accessories.
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6 hours ago, jd1923 said:
It will NOT run the A/C on 120V shore power, go figure. It could be a bad switch, or it could be I have an open wire on the input side that connects to the 20A A/C breaker on the panel. I hate to have to open this and wire it again. First thing to check is for continuity of the hot, neutral and ground, from the panel and left to right across the switch. I'll report on this later.
Of course, while I'm doing this there is no air in the Oliver! I truly would like to find another brand inverter ATS. Please don't run out and buy one of these in a hurry.
Is your KISAE TS plugged into the inverter? The install in my unit was very straightforward; simply spliced the KISAE TS into the existing 12-2 Romex from the breaker box and plug it into an inverter supplied power outlet. Yes, the terminal connectors seemed inadequate, but suffice; I had issue with the extremely short power cord on the KISAE TS, really limited positioning. Good luck with your endeavor!
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17 hours ago, jd1923 said:
I believe we have a replacement thermostat, not the original, though I do not know the Dometic model names or numbers. Check the picture. It's set on AUTO and has the snowflake meaning the AC is on. This mode will switch the fan to off when the compressor is off.
My thermostat looks exactly like yours. I referenced the Dometic Operating Instructions for the thermostat and confirmed your assessment on use of the air conditioner set on AUTO spot on, thanks for the enlightenment! I now know the AUTO setting can be used for both heating AND cooling. See attached.
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14 hours ago, Against The Wind said:
And yes, I figured on the shower being too tight for me so we had planned on outside sources (campground bathhouses, etc.) and me using the shower in extreme conditions.
One can always sit on the closed toilet to shower, after all it is a wet bath! However, care would need to be taken in doing so with a composting head.
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13 hours ago, dewdev said:
Can this system be wired to monitor my 4 batteries seperately?
Individually or as a bank, please define. @MAX Burner’s explanation for use of the BMV-712 and SmartShunt is spot on for monitoring a battery bank.
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11 hours ago, MAX Burner said:
we rotate in the spare every 5K miles.
What is your rotating sequence?
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20 hours ago, jd1923 said:
The only good thing about the Dometic Penguin is that in AUTO the fan will stop at set temp.
You have made reference to this before. I’ve always heard the AUTO setting is for running the heater, not the AC; at least for later model Olivers.
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On 6/20/2024 at 5:36 AM, Ronbrink said:
I checked if my fans would fit on the cover/vent in like manner as you, but unable to make it work without some trimming.
Upon completion of wiring requirements I was able to test the fans both upright (as @MAX Burner and @dhaig mounted theirs), and laying flat and facing upward; the upright orientation seemed to produce better airflow through the upper vent. The panel control was routed into the cabinet above the microwave for easy access and convenience of use; the blue tape is temporary, I will likely use either Velcro or a hook to stage it at the upper front corner when unneeded.
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On 3/14/2024 at 8:48 AM, MAX Burner said:
Last summer, we mounted the same low-amp draw Beechlane double-fan assy in our upper fridge compartment with the remote mounted in the lower compartment
On 3/14/2024 at 8:48 AM, MAX Burner said:
I checked if my fans would fit on the cover/vent in like manner as you, but unable to make it work without some trimming. Next tried fitment as @dhaig shows in his above pic, but now thinking laying it flat may be more efficient. What think you? (A change was made to my initial post once I realized you both had the fans facing the same direction, my bad)
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10 hours ago, jd1923 said:
Can we assume my hull has 12 AWG wiring?
You should be able to look at the backside of the breaker panel and see the color of the romex wiring feeding into it; yellow 12, white 14. At least that’s what I was able to do in my 2020, all 12/2 to be exact.
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3 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
Am I reading this wrong?
I referenced the Technical Specifications for both the GREE and ECO-COOL, as posted online, with the same findings as @jd1923. Your reference material could be up-to-date information.
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1 hour ago, rideadeuce said:
Which is great since R-410A is going to be retired and R-32 is much more efficient.
According to product specifications, the GREE and ECO-COOL both use R410.
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1 hour ago, Shawna and Scott said:
Are there any modifications needed to attach to the Oliver? When I questioned about upgrading to the Truma I was told that it needed a platform to sit on, available thru Oliver. Other fiberglass work was involved.
I would think not, regarding additional platform/fiberglass support. There would be some wiring mods (no wall thermostat) and the condensate drains rooftop; remains to be seen if there will be a mod to adapt the Oliver’s thru-hull drain line.
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7 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
Looking forward to someone installing the Atmos 4.4 (Gree, Tosot, Eco cool) unit.
What sets the Atmos 4.4 apart from the other similar brands you listed is the type of refrigerant, R32. As I recall reading, requires a lower operating pressure and thus, more energy efficient.
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14 minutes ago, jd1923 said:
This will take some study
Indeed, but impressed thus far! More energy efficient, competitively priced and much quieter than the Dometic, mine is the 11,000 BTU model. I have read some discussion on Houghton vs Atmos. In watching videos on performance you can make your own judgement on the db levels and energy consumption being reported. Most interest and testing is done running off an inverter.
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10 minutes ago, jd1923 said:
Have you made your decision? Your timing?
Upon contact a couple weeks ago, I was placed on a waiting list for a white unit, said to take 8 weeks for their shipment to arrive. They do have in stock however, black units.
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24 minutes ago, jd1923 said:
Can't find much on Atmos or who sells them.
sdgelkhart.com, $1350 delivered was my quote. See pic for a forum to visit to obtain in depth information on the Atmos 4.4, including installation and performance testing videos.
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12 hours ago, GarryandKristi said:
I did not disconnect the charge wire.
I believe the community consensus is to disconnect the 7-pin charging wire, either within the plug housing or inside the Oliver, upon installing lithium (lithium iron phosphate) batteries. OTT routinely does this during a build when an upgrade to lithium batteries is opted. Reason being, the TV alternator does not have the proper charging profile for lithium. You can however, install a DC-DC charger and utilize the TV’s charge system to maintain the house batteries.
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Two Inch Hitch-Mount Bike Rack Receiver
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
The upgrade to a 2” receiver is to accommodate use of a wider range of rack brands, not to raise Oliver’s stated weight limit.