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Try2Relax

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Everything posted by Try2Relax

  1. Steve, your an inspiration to us all. I've yet to attempt doing, yup scares the hell out of me, never having worked with fiberglass I've been researching proper procedures, the most prevalent is drill in reverse. Is this the way you do it? Seeing that jigsaw in your hand really shocked me, I've been a cabinet maker and know the edge destruction they can do, what type of blade are you using there? Any chance of you doing a video on your next project? Thanks
  2. Bill, That looks really nice, thank you for the great explanation. How many miles would you guess you've done since installation? I'm just wondering if the highway wind will have any affect on the side window installations. Thanks again
  3. SUCCESS! I removed the "T" valve with the rear draw connected to it and straight connected the tank line to the pump input, with the pump running (bladder tank removed) shower water pressure remained strong the whole time. MY pressure weakness is either the way the connectors were on the valve or the valve itself. The connectors on my unit are all of the plastic variety, I will be removing them all and putting better ones in, I've also replaced all the original sort hard flex lines with longer braided lines with metal ends and gaskets. With it the way it is now, the pressure tank would not be necessary for workable pressure, but if we want serious maintainable pressure it can be installed and the pump would now keep up easily. I hope this helps whomever might need the info, feel free to ask anything about it. Thanks for the info everyone provided.
  4. Thanks Joel, that was my realization yesterday, so I removed the little prefilter before the pump and then ran out of time, I will eliminate what I can and let you know of the effects.
  5. Thank you. That is what I was trying to find out originally, the first video is how my system has always looked which is why the pump was changed. When it didn't change the performance I started changing out the system, I have the ability to isolate each output from the rest and even with just the shower a straight shot from the pump it looks similar. So I figured that it was just the performance level of those pumps. This ended me up at putting in the tank. In doing everything else I see no leak anywhere in the system and the only other thing I have left is going at the faucet. When the pressure has dropped enough that the pump kicks in, the pump just doesn't seem strong enough to carry the flow. As you state, 30 secs of high pressure, that drop off would only be to what ever your current flow rate is now, if yours is stronger than what I have then that is what it would be during recycle. If someone could post what their normal flow is when the pump is running, I would know what I should be expecting and what to shoot for. Attached is a photo of where the tank lives.
  6. Sorry, work doesn't always allow for quick responses. I do not do a blog, so all information is only here. The first mod was to remove a bunch of "T"s and elbows, the paper work that comes with the original pump states that each one affects the flow. The amount of benefit to doing this mod, in my opinion, is probably not worth the effort it took. The real difference comes from adding an accumulator, my house is on a well so they only way I have pressure is from a bladder tank, so that is what I did here. Flotec makes a 6 gal (2 gal usable) tank, FP7105-8, which I upped the psi to 35 and get about .5 to .6 gal drawdown, then the pump repressurizes the system. So 2 cycles is about 1 gal and I will know how much water I go through. The unit fits perfectly next to the sink drain, between it and the wheel well, all the way to the front of the access area. Just place a check valve between the pump and the tank, so that it doesn't push back into the pump.
  7. So I did my final mod for the water pressure, before trying faucet if necessary. Not knowing what everyone else has for pressure, this is how mine was as purchased. https://youtu.be/IPP6HsOC7Sc And this is how it is after https://youtu.be/5YixlyY0VF0 After the pressure drops the recycle to pump shutoff is 2 min (time to wash up)
  8. I've been considering the same thing. I'm not too concerned about the weight aspect, but for me it seems the pump can't keep up with it to maintain adequate pressure for more than about 15 secs, Oliver covered a pump replacement but that didn't really help, I've made some other mods that have helped a little, I have one more to try then it's the faucet. Bill, is that measuring the current faucet in the trailer? How hard is that too get to, what does it entail? It would be a shame to lose the current faucet, I looked it up and they are about $225 to replace. Any input on users water pressure at the shower head would be appreciated so I know what is normal thanks.
  9. Just replaced the original equipment with the EZ FLEX kit, took about 2 hours. Simple tools plus one 3k floor jack and one from under the seat in my Fiat to move the axles around easier. If you have an air tool (to break all the rust loose) there's no real strength needed to do any of it. In the process found my 2015 has NVR LUBE bearings.
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