Try2Relax

While the specs for the pumps state to minimize 90s and tees, after replacing pretty much my whole system, I don't think the realization will be great enough to notice from just that. The pressure in a completely sealed system is actually quite strong, stronger than my house, I found that one of the intake tees valves didn't seal completely and the hard white hose connector leaked, that being it sucked a little air, therefore there was never a water leak to find. So, if your having a pressure issue you can check these possibilities. On another note, those of you who find the pump is loud, remove the white hoses on either end and replace with 30" braided lines (Home Depot) THAT does make all the difference in the world. Attached is a photo of the tee valve, this was the one that you need to switch to draw water from the back connection that outputs straight to the pump.

Unfortunately we will be unable to attend on those dates.

That looks as awesome as your store sounds! Just read through your website, let me know when you'll be opening a store in the Northeast would love to try that ice cream.

I have to agree with what's been mentioned. I converted over my Honda generator to propane as I did not want to carry gas in the truck. The company I went with is GenConneX, this conversion is propane only, I am extremely happy with it, as I am not good about maintaining old gasoline that isn't used enough. There is another company that does a tri-fuel conversion, I can't remember the name, it is easy to find if you search the airstream forums, there are long discussions about them there.

Marc, Do you not have a counter top in your trailer?

Marc's windows flipped

Just attach them, someone will fix them and repost them. Then you can compare and figure out what you need do correct on your end. Everyone is anxious to see them and won't mind looking at them either way

The safety chains are rated at 10,000lbs I believe.

That was exactly my thought! But I didn't think of using the existing bracket (DUH), I was concerned about the weight of the whole unit while underway and some of the back roads in the west. Did you use a backer plate to reinforce the support or did you just use the screw mounts as it was attached to the wall?

Stan, Don't know if you've been there done that, but when I did mine it took about 1.5 hrs per side, probably less with the right tools (I never have the right tools) one thing to watch out for is that you note the way the center is configured, arms down shackles up leafs on top. When working with them they can slip out easily and then it's a pain to get back without undoing it. If you can, when they're all in the air just prop something under the other side so they can't move enough to. Maybe it was just me but I'd never done it before and that was the issue I had. Do you plan to touch the bearing packing while your there?

I took it back to Oliver, while I am the second owner and it was beyond its one year warranty period, they are stand up enough that they repaired it under warranty. In the earlier models the mount configuration for the rear power jacks had some issues and allowed movement, that cracked the fiberglass around the hole it goes through in the hull. They realized that there was the potential for an issue and reconfigured how the mounting is done sometime spring 2015.

Buzzy, The main cause of the problem was that the rubber grommets that held the fan down, seemed to be dry rotted and thus weakened, whether this is winter related or not I'm not sure. I do know that they make covers for the AC unit and am thinking of picking one up for extended non-use times. One of the differences between our units is the shroud, the Coleman has he exhaust on the top and allows excessive UV and weather through it, directly on top of the fan, the Dometic is closed on the top and breathes and vents through the sides, I don't know that they would be as vulnerable to the problem. I would recommend cleaning the cooling fins annually though.

John, don't look. And actually when I took it in for fiberglass repair, in June, they were intrigued by it and asked questions about the setup. You are correct with your numbers, the in to the out parallel distance is 9.5" I prefer to use the premade guides so I don't kink them.

After my trip to Oliver and then 2.5 weeks in South Utah, in 109 degree heat, I returned home to NH. Air-conditioning use was heavy during the trip and after being back about a week I had to relocate the trailer from under tree shade to direct sun, so I turned on the AC to keep it comfortable. Two hours later I went in and found it was 92 degrees in there. So I shut it down, checked everything inside and couldn't find anything amiss so I made my way to the roof. Upon removing the AC cover I found that one of the 3 fans blades has ripped off, after further investigation it seems that one of the mounting bolts let go, causing the other two rubber feet to tear through and break allowing the newly unsecured mini propeller to attempt a takeoff into the cover housing only to come crashing back down into inside of the cooling fins, this causing the blade to break.... Having been thinking about it anyways, time to order the hush kit, installs easily enough and while somewhat more quiet on my unit it was nothing drastically so, I did not find that the original equipment was that loud to begin with and I'd asked others during the trip, bring concerned about the complaints read here, no one thought it was an issue either. Back to the fail, if you are up there, I would recommend checking those mount bolts, remounting that fan was a bit involved as I was unwilling to break the seal where the unit secures to the roof, this the room for tools is extremely limited. Another thing I would recommend to all is to make cleaning the AC fins a part of your yearly maintenance, more so if you travel to dusty areas that would warrant it, as that fan having to pull air through them can add quite a bit of the noise to it with all that resistance built up from being dirty/clogged.

Another spot to check. This photo is taken from behind the water pump towards the sink. While doing some work on the plumbing, found that the propane line going to the stove routing was less than desirable, with the cabinet frame. This can be addressed by removing all three left side drawers.

I finally made my reservation at Greenbelt and found that with a National Park pass it was only $8 a night. Just an FYI

John and Liye, welcome to the family! In regards to the cell booster, I stayed at Snow Canyon SP Utah, I had absolutely NO coverage, ZERO BARS, turned on the booster and had 4G three bars, so yes I absolutely recommend it now. The one caveat is, your phone needs to be close to the indoor antenna, so I would just put it next to it and turn on the hotspot and use the laptop on wifi. I too bought mine used, as such I have not reset the config on the wifi ranger yet. As for the brakes, I believe I have the 10" stock brakes also, setting on the brake controller is 6 with 6.5 or 7 coming out of the mountains. On level ground much more than that locks them up to easily, so to me bigger brakes would just lock up with lower number settings. My Ollie has pretty much all the options and weighs over 6100 lbs travelling.

John, Warn makes products for winching not towing, different directional forces, I would be sure to do a lot of research first before purchasing one thinking it will be able to deal with a 700lb tongue weight and then the forces applied in moving a trailer around. Other than that, I had purchased the other powered dolly, can't remember the name you could run it with a drill, it had the proper weight ratings, I don't know if it was the product or the bull dog hitch that didn't play well, but it kept buckling under. Returned it, bought a true front hitch and installed it and haven't regretted it yet. I would definitely recommend a front hitch for tight moves.

Stan, I picked up the Fluke 62 before going cross country, worked flawlessly and provided great piece of mind.

Leaving that open or closed shouldn't matter, I would think, there is a breather/vent pipe for the kitchen sink, which is open to the tank, under the counter behind the upper right drawer, which would allow flow for draining and grey tank odors to escape. I would guess your odors came from the dump station venting back up the connection (not your grey tank) and into your trailer, which would have happen or the sink vent anyways, probably won't happen at a different station. This is why I would NEVER leave my grey valve open at a full hookup camping location. Edit: and I think there is a trap in the grey line from the shower floor drain, but I'd have to double check to confirm this.

<p style="text-align: left;"></p> Here is the look of the Coleman Mach 8 with the inside cover off, the drain tube runs upper right to left to drain pex, this might be what you want to check for your inside drip. You can disconnect the clear tube and blow out the line. To get here, remove filters (clean while off) remove 4 spring tension screws holding white cover on, then remove 2 SHORT screws holding black blower cowling on and then the third and final short screw is on the front of the black cowling under the tape area, which is probably gapped from when they installed it. Hope this helps

Steve. I realize your post was from last December, buy you state standard axle as 3500#, my elite II has D60 axles as do Bill's, believe from the picture he posted in EZ Flex, these are 5200# axles, Dexter makes the 6K disc brakes and specs them out for the D60 axle w/ 6x5.5" pattern. Do you think/know that Oliver has some special setup on these axles that would not allow the change out? If you click the link and then on the right side in the first drop down specify 6K disc brake

John, a couple questions, I just installed the Andersen myself, previous owner did not select the option. Looking at your photo, when people mention how many threads are showing, yours shows about 1.5, per Andersen setup, leave 1 showing and then attach to frame, once attached with no weight, hand tighten, for me about 2 turns, then crank down 3 or 4 full turns, thus 5 or 6 threads is what should be showing behind the nut. The other, with all the pressure on the system, the mount bolts are spaced for standard trailer frames and one above and one below, they are pretty much RIGHT against the frame, even then the bracket ends up slightly angled from the forces and the set screw helps to hold it in position. Looking at your photo, the bottom bolt looks about an inch below your frame with nothing for the set screw to dig into (the only threaded hole on the brackets) and your bushing does not appear to be compressed at all, when forces are applied the lower half of that bracket should slide forward until that bolt hits the frame. Is this how your system has always been? Have you ever noticed any issue with it? What type of trailer is that setup actually on? There is a great YouTube video by Andersen on how to setup the hitch.

Scotty, while I have a GMC 1500, I will agree that I have settled on 6.5 for the brake controller setting, I would guess that the output should be pretty stable across the field, the differences would be in the weight of the trailer, so full water and load maybe a notch higher. As far as the connection issue, I think during all my research I remember something about the Ford connectors, I think it was somewhere in the airstream forums, if I come across it I'll forward it.