dewdev

We just had the Xantrex XC 3000 Pro installed in our 2018 Ollie along with new Lithionics batteries. We notice that the Xantrex makes a running noise, I am guessing when charging the batteries. There is no noise when not charging. Is this noise normal and can the noise be reduced or eliminated?

Welcome to the group and congradulations on your purchase. To help with any future questions you may have, it would be very helpful for you to list your vehicle and trailer identification in your signature.

@ScubaRx had a great idea. Go to the truck fuse box and disconnect the fuse that provides power to charge the Ollie batteries (I am installing lithium batteries in the Ollie). A great idea to pull the charger wire fuse so there is no power in the line at all to the 7 pin connector. Unfortunately on my 2024 RAM there is no such fuse for power that would charge the Ollie batteries. The 2024 RAM fuses for the trailer are (1) Trailer tow backup; (2) Trailer stop/left turn signal, (3) Trailer stop/right turn signal, (4) Trailer tow park lamp. I guess I would have to remove the wire from the "Aux 12V Power" connector at the 7 pin connector, if I want to stop power from my vehicle alternate to not charge the Ollie batteries or find the wire in the Ollie to disconnect, but then there is still power in that wire. @Galway Girl and others that have converted from AGM batteries to Lithium batteries: Is the "Aux 12V power" on the 7 pin connector the wire to disable ??? Can the vehicle charge wire to the trailer stay in place when installing lithium batteries ??? Will the vehicle alternate be compromised if the wire is not disconnected ??? Thanks All

Thanks @mossemi. I did confirm that they are the solar wires. I did not know that the connector was a automatic resetting breaker. @Galway Girl. I was told by OTT that the red wire with the 1 amp fuse goes to my composting toilet fan. I believe that the propane/leak detector wire (which is likely in the corrugated wire guard) is connected to the red device with the two buttoms. I will be verifying this later today. Thanks

I think (based on a old Jason Essary email) that the black line going to the 2 button red auto reset breaker has the 7 pin charge wire. I think that is what @Galway Girl and their picture was referring to. Know I have one more question. Does anyone know what these wires go to in the attached photo? Thanks to all.

@Galway Girl My 2018 Ollie is slightly different than yours. In the picture below the red wire has a 1 amp fuse in line. Wht is that for? Sorry the picture come in upside down when coping to the foruml

This is a copy of my buss, which is different than yours. JD, any other ideas would be appreciated. Tomorrow I will check with OTT.

For my 2018 Elite II, I would like to find the charge wire inside the Ollie to disconnect it as part of a Lithium battery upgrade, instead of doing it at the 7 pin pigtail that plugs into the truck. Is the wire accessible inside the Ollie? A picture would be helpful. Thanks

My 2018 does not have the solar 30A breaker that you show in your picture.

Tony: It has been hot in Maine but not as bad as your weather. I started the AC about 1/2 hour before starting the work. I used a brand new plain metal toothed hole saw with the center arbor (drill bit) attached to a battery operated drill. I drilled slowly until the bit made the hole. I then drilled in reverse to get the hole saw started into the jellcoat. After the hole saw was started into the fiberglass, I completed the hole by drilling in forward. The hole came out perfect with not chips of the jellcoat. Be sure to keep both hands on the drill so the hole saw does not bounce around.

@Tony and Rhonda I drilled out the fiberglass in the pantry yesterday to install the switch. The fiberglass was only 1/8" thick.

@Tony and Rhonda I would suggest before drilling to put some (blue) tape on the area to be drilled and start drilling slowly so you do not chip the jelcoat.

@jd1923 The Progressive unit (for at the pole) has a metal loop so you can lock it to the power pole, so hopefully it is harder to disappear.

I use a Progressive Industries EMS at the power pole, so I can immediately see the quality of power at the power pole and see if there are any error codes. I still check the one in the attic, but not necessarily in a hurry.

@Tony and Rhonda Tony: I am going to be installing a single circuit BlueSea System switch as my solar cutoff switch. Oliver installed a single pole switch in my friends 2021 Oliver, which he bought new. It is a BlueSea System model 6006 switch and is rated from 300 amps continous. (I can only assume that OTT is following code by only interupting the + wire, as they have been doing that for a few years now). Because your and my access hatches are larger than on the 2021+ trailers, we can not install the switch next to the hatch, as OTT did. Instead, I plan to install my BlueSea switch inside the pantry on the wall against the area where the wiring to the Zamp Solar Charge Controller is located. This location allows the + wire from the solar panels to the Zamp Controller to be moved off the Zamp and moved over to the BlueSea switch. Then only a new short cable is necessary to be installed from the BlueSea switch back to the Zamp Controller to complete the circuit. My research indicates that the Zamp Solar Charge Controller is using 8 AWG cable wiring. Yes, I will have to cut a circular hole in the pantry wall, but that is easier than trying to epoxy a HDPE backing plate inside that small area in back of the Zamp and the switch is than accessable without reaching into where all the wiring is. If anyone sees my approach to be a issue, please let me know.