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I just noticed a small crack at the roof behind the A/C. I don't think it's deep and I am not sure how it happened. Might have been this way from the factory or something fell from a tree and hit it? I park outside but I don't have any trees around my camper and I don't remember anything ever hitting the roof. Of course it could have happened when we camped out and not around the trailer. I submitted a ticket and waiting to hear back. In the mean time, what's the best way to repair? I thinking either silicon sealant or white Eternabond tape.

Great idea, ticket summited and waiting for response. Will report back once I hear back. Thanks!

It doesn't look like any wrench tools will help disassemble the faucet in my 2021 Elite 2. If anyone has any other ideas, I would love hear them. Really don't want to use a channel plier.

Yes, it's weird that mine cracked like crazy. I'll order a replacement and swap it out. Thanks everyone!

It was a bit windy on the way back home today. When I got home, I found some cracks near the back of the exterior shroud of the Dometic Penguin AC. I know it just happens today as it's not there before I left the campground. Any tips replacing this? Or should I even bother replacing it at all?

Based on https://www.arprv.com/rv-fix-fridge-circulation-fan.php I don't even know if my Norcold has a drip tube, will need to double check later.

Here you go. General_Install_Guide_v5.x.pdf ARP_User-Guide_v5.x.pdf Troubleshooting_Guide_v5.x.pdf Ancillary_Graphical_User_Instructions_v5.x.pdf I like this idea. Please keep us posted if you end up doing this. Did you purchase a kit with defrost blowers as well?

Your understanding makes sense. My so called "research" was just reading through a bunch of ARP discussion over various internet forums 😆 as I was having a hard time navigating through poorly design ARP website.

After a quick research, I think ARP is great if you are using propane. It's not necessary, please correct me if I am wrong, if your fridge is using shore power or DC. I am interested in this product but for ventilation propose. My Norcold doesn't work well if outside temperature is very high. After looking at pricing for ARP, I think I am going to try something else cheaper. Either Titan or Beech Lane cooling fan.

Thanks for the pictures. A couple of follow up questions. Are these fan weather proofed and safe to use when it's raining or towing while raining? How did you get 12V to the upper fan? Updated: I found some answers from ARP website but couldn't find whether the fans are weather proofed.

Thank you John. I am not too far from you in Ellensburg. You're right. The tube is wide open at the bottom. There is a plastic cover plate for cable management but I don't use it. I think it's mostly for permanent mounting option.

I finished the roof mount over the weekend. Luckily, it was super easy than I thought. The 2 holes of the Starlink short wall mount fit perfectly into the existing awning screws on my Girard. I am not very tall, 5'4", and need a ladder or climb the rear bumper to connect/disconnect the dish. I always take the dish downs when towing. Question: should I be worried about galvanic corrosion. I don't know what kind of metal the mount is but the awning bracket looks like a stainless steel? The installation manual, Short_Wall_Mount_Guide_Rectangular.pdf.pdf, doesn't say much about the mount itself.

Or at least has an option for me to buy without preinstalled 1.25 receiver, just the 2x5" beam so I can install 2" receiver by myself later.

This web page suggested using wire brush to clean leaf springs and applying degreasing fluid after. Does that sound right? Inspected the leaf springs yesterday and notice 3 things. Only 1 rebound clip installed (circle in red below) The rubber gasket (circle in green) is also cracked bad. The nuts at the end of u-bolts are very rusty. Should I be concerned? Thank you!

oh, forgot to mention, looks like someone mentioned here that should be doable.

I have not done that but, FWIW, I plan to add dimmer for all outdoor LED lights by replacing the light switch with something like this inline dimmer. I hope that I can just replace a switch using the simplified hookup below. What I am not sure is that the LED lights Oliver using are dimmable or not. I also don't know how I would retrofit the dimmer into the control panel.

I know it's going to be bad but didn't think it's this bad. https://www.motorbiscuit.com/ford-f-150-lightning-barely-made-it-80-miles-with-a-trailer/

There is this Yakima Stage Two 1.25" that is approved for RV, not sure it's approved for travel trailers. I am not using this one myself. I'm probably going to swap out the 1.25" hitch to 2" because my TV has 2" receiver and it would be cheaper if I can use the bike rack on both TV and the Oliver. RV Tested and Approved to 60 lbs. per bike Off-Road rated to 36lbs per bike

Perhaps a telescopic flag pole would work?

This looks promising. Thank you!

Am I the only person having difficult time twisting off the sewer cap? Any tips for making it easier. Thinking about swapping out to one of these but not sure if it's going to help.

I finally did this over the weekend. I posted some pictures here.

This project is to create an inlet port for Starlink cable into the attic where I put the Starlink router. I decided to repurpose one of those TV/Sat ports. Below are the pictures of the Furrion coax inlets. The left picture is the original and the right one is modified by drilling a big hole using hole saw. This is the waterproof RJ45 inlet port I got from Amazon. Next steps are removing old Furrion and enlarge the cable hole. To my surprise, I found a nice gift from the factory hidden under the seal. No big deal, I can add a little bit of 3M sealant to patch that up. Then install the RJ45 connector, left picture is from the outside, right is from the inside. This is what it looks like after putting back the cover. Next is to fish the cable from attic down to the belly near the furnace and pull it along the back and plug into the RJ45 inside port. You will have to cut the cable and install RJ45 male connectors. There are a few video on YouTube about this. Then plug it in at the RJ45 female at the inside of the inlet. The cable end from the dish will be on the outside. Plug the router in and enjoy fast Internet!

It's the idea of punching holes. I have never done this before for fiberglass. I am sure it will get better. Thanks for the link John!

My plan to is to splice the Starlink cord and re-purpose one of those TV/Sat inlet and install RJ45 inlet there, reroute the cable up into the attic and keep the router there. There is an AC outlet in there already. The hard part for me is to drill a bigger hole to fit the waterproof RJ45 inside the Furrion inlet cover. For the dish, my tentative plan is to find a way to mount the Starlink's short wall mount to one of those awning support bracket toward the back of the trailer. At that location, I think it's easy for me to reach and mount the dish up there by climbing on the rear bumper, if I can get a clear view of the sky. If not, I will put the dishy on the ground and stake the legs. Alternatively, lots of people seem to be okay mounting theirs on flag pole but personally I would avoid that if possible.