Carl Hansen

Well, I pulled the trigger today and ordered all my DC charging parts. They will be coming in over the next week or so. I would like to extend a big thanks to all the members of this forum, who over the years, have helped me with many questions and concerns I would like to give a special thanks to Coddiwomple (David) who graciously invited me over to his shop to show me how he installed his DC charging in his LE1. It was extremely helpful to see first hand. He went beyond the mark by opening up his TV and trailer (including every access panel) and allowed me to photograph and video his trailer. He even went so far to give me copies of all his documentation and notes. It's people like David and many others that make this community such a great place to communicate and share. Thanks to everyone! Carl BTW... I just got notified by Highway Trailers in Salem that Oliver is sending them the Truma water heater parts replacement for the recall. There is hope!

I did and found some great tips in that video. They make a case for DC2DC charging as well. That video helped my wife better understand the value as well. Thanks!

Thanks! This is great. I am using 4 gauge wire. We're you able to 'push' the cable all the way back to the battery box area or did you 'pull' the cable using a fishing wire? I don't just know how much room there is in the belly to add additional cabling. Thoughts, suggestions? Carl

The 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubecon has a 220 amp 'smart' alternator. From what I understand, that should be sufficient for DC charging. That is an important consideration.

I have consider DC2DC charging for the last 4 years. I wanted to consider how we use the trailer before installing the DC2DC charging. We do longer trips and often stay at Harvest Host along the way. It's nice to pull into a dry camping spot with a full charge on the batteries. The solar does a pretty good job but not during the night and decreases effectiveness in bad weather. The following reasons made me decide to pursue DC2DC charging: 1. You got a guaranteed output of up to 700 watts, rain, night, it doesn't matter 2. Additional panels on the Elite 1 is not an option. DC to DC is like adding additional solar panels to the rig. 3. How about portable panels? Portable panels are heavy and do not store well. 4. Portable panels only work during the daytime. We are on the road most days. 5. Portable panels won't run the air conditioner. I do carry a portable generator with us which can run the air conditioner if necessary. 6. DC2DC is guaranteed output. It is going to work all the time. (Maybe a duplicate of #1 but I think it is worth mentioning again.) I think it depends on how you use your rig. If you always stay at places with shore power, maybe the DC2DC charging doesn't make sense. I believe the decision to install DC charging depends on your use model. It may not make sense for everyone. Carl

Thanks for the links! When I first began my research, I thought the 30A Orion would be the solution. Since then, with all the videos that I have watched, and what the lithium batteries are capable, it became clear that the 50A Orion was a much better solution. That is what is on my shopping list along with 4 gauge wire, etc. Your suggestion is yet another confirmation that the 50A is the right solution. Now if I can get past the worry of pulling all these wires properly and getting through the hull, I will pull the trigger on my shopping list. I can always find something to worry about! Carl

That would be amazing. I will send you a message.

This was great! This is just what I was looking for. Can you expand a bit on how you routed the cables back to the batteries? Did you use a fish cable or were you able to just "push" them through. This is a much better solution to running them outside underneath the chassis. Thanks!

Hi Guys! I need your help... I am about to attempt a DC to DC installation on my setup, a 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon and my 2021 Oliver Elite 1 (Hull #924). I need your guidance on how you routed the charging cables through the hull and then pull them back to the charger and the battery box. I have looked carefully but have not found an "easy" way to get the wires through the hull of the trailer. I was going to run the cables down the middle of the trailer in the recessed part of the hull and then somehow get them to the Victron Orion charger and then into the battery box for connection. I was hoping someone with much more experience could suggest the best way to route the cables on the trailer side with minimal drilling required. Thanks in advance! Carl

I submitted mine on February 2, and I have not heard a word from my Oliver RV shop in Salem. Called once, no update.

Those are great. That is what I use. Saves the knees!

Let’s seem to be a great product. Multiple people here seem to be using that brand.

I did the search before posting and did not come up with any of those threads you shared. Thanks for the help. This how the stainless steel McKillans look on the Oliver. Carl

Greetings! Has anyone ever tried using "quick connects" on your city and fresh water inlets? It seems it would make things a bit easier if you are moving campsites regularly. I think it would be straight forward on the city water inlet but there might be a problem on the fresh water inlet. I have noticed that after filling the fresh water there seems to be water that flows out after I disconnect the hose. Is that water that from the fill tube into the holding tank. Would that cause any siphoning effect of the fresh water if the rubber plug was not re-inserted? I use stainless steel quick connections from McKillans on my power washer. They make an amazing product. I was wondering if their garden hose quick connects might work on the Oliver water inlets. Thoughts? Carl

Yes, they are saying the same thing about fuel.

Spring is here, almost... and I am going through my annual maintenance on the trailer. What do you do for furnace maintenance if anything. I look in the manuals and really don't find much on annual maintenance for the furnace. I'm getting ready to head to TX for the solar eclipse but will be going through some cold country before we get there. I just want everything in tip top condition before we roll out. Thoughts?

Are there many of you that use double surge protection - one at the pole and the internal Oliver EMS? We are making a very long trip back to the east coast later this summer and I am considering using the 30 amp Power Watchdog at the pole to complement the Oliver EMS. Is this too much? We are going to be staying at a wide variety of campgrounds. I would hate to damage the Oliver's electronics. Redundancy here always seems to be a good strategy. Thoughts? Carl

We purchased the receiver option from Oliver. The receiver from Oliver is a 2 inch receiver with an insert to make it 1 1/2”. When I got back to Oregon, I went to a local machine shop and had them remove the insert. Now our 2 inch bike rack fits perfectly. Between the rack and both bikes, we are still under the 150 lb limit. We have towed almost 7 K mile with this configuration and we have had no problems. Good luck with your outfit. Carl

I got it sorted out! Some WD40 helped loosen the threads and an adjustable wrench on the base was the magic combination. Without the adjustable wrench, the entire air valve was spinning in place. The wrench on the base of the transmitter held everything in place while I used the TST wrench to loosen the locking nut. All is well and thanks to everyone who helped on this one.

I have the TST system. I will take these suggestions and give them a try. Thanks!

Greetings! I need to remove the TPMS transmitters to inflate the tires but I can't get them off. The little wrench they supplied does not do the trick. Any other suggestions? Carl

I too had a machine shop remove the insert for our two inch bike rack. It has been rock solid.

Thanks! The trailer is in the shade early in the morning but in direct sunlight by noon. We are considering installing a shade sail over in to protect it from the direct sun. This might be only thing we can do. I do have lithium batteries. I hadn’t considered the effect of heat on them. Thanks for the heads up.

This is our first summer owning our Oliver. We park the trailer at our home and we connect to 30amp shore power. With these hot temperatures we are enduring this summer the internal trailer temperature is reaching close to 100 degrees, similar to the outside temperature. We do have the fan running when the temperature goes above 78 degrees. The windows are cracked open for ventilation. All the perishables have been removed from the trailer while not in use. Should I be concerned about these internal temperatures? Is there anything else I should be doing to keep the trailer cooler? What are your thoughts and best practices? Carl

The excel file still works! Thanks!!!