Carl Hansen

Yes, they are saying the same thing about fuel.

Spring is here, almost... and I am going through my annual maintenance on the trailer. What do you do for furnace maintenance if anything. I look in the manuals and really don't find much on annual maintenance for the furnace. I'm getting ready to head to TX for the solar eclipse but will be going through some cold country before we get there. I just want everything in tip top condition before we roll out. Thoughts?

Are there many of you that use double surge protection - one at the pole and the internal Oliver EMS? We are making a very long trip back to the east coast later this summer and I am considering using the 30 amp Power Watchdog at the pole to complement the Oliver EMS. Is this too much? We are going to be staying at a wide variety of campgrounds. I would hate to damage the Oliver's electronics. Redundancy here always seems to be a good strategy. Thoughts? Carl

We purchased the receiver option from Oliver. The receiver from Oliver is a 2 inch receiver with an insert to make it 1 1/2”. When I got back to Oregon, I went to a local machine shop and had them remove the insert. Now our 2 inch bike rack fits perfectly. Between the rack and both bikes, we are still under the 150 lb limit. We have towed almost 7 K mile with this configuration and we have had no problems. Good luck with your outfit. Carl

I got it sorted out! Some WD40 helped loosen the threads and an adjustable wrench on the base was the magic combination. Without the adjustable wrench, the entire air valve was spinning in place. The wrench on the base of the transmitter held everything in place while I used the TST wrench to loosen the locking nut. All is well and thanks to everyone who helped on this one.

I have the TST system. I will take these suggestions and give them a try. Thanks!

Greetings! I need to remove the TPMS transmitters to inflate the tires but I can't get them off. The little wrench they supplied does not do the trick. Any other suggestions? Carl

I too had a machine shop remove the insert for our two inch bike rack. It has been rock solid.

Thanks! The trailer is in the shade early in the morning but in direct sunlight by noon. We are considering installing a shade sail over in to protect it from the direct sun. This might be only thing we can do. I do have lithium batteries. I hadn’t considered the effect of heat on them. Thanks for the heads up.

This is our first summer owning our Oliver. We park the trailer at our home and we connect to 30amp shore power. With these hot temperatures we are enduring this summer the internal trailer temperature is reaching close to 100 degrees, similar to the outside temperature. We do have the fan running when the temperature goes above 78 degrees. The windows are cracked open for ventilation. All the perishables have been removed from the trailer while not in use. Should I be concerned about these internal temperatures? Is there anything else I should be doing to keep the trailer cooler? What are your thoughts and best practices? Carl

The excel file still works! Thanks!!!

I just checked the three mounting bolts on my front jack and they were all loose. Glad I caught them now. BTW... what tool do you guys use to track the maintenance on your Oliver?

I do have the optional electrical port for a generator. In my 2021 Elite I, I seem to have a different wiring configuration and buss. I do have two boxes under the front dinet, one with the circuit breakers and the other one is for the plugin fuses. I checked all my electrical connections. All of my connections were tight and secure so I think that I am OK. Carl

I wonder how many other missing or loose screws and bolts are out there. It seems to be a potential issue.

John, Well, it was a good thing that you had me check the mounting bolts. 3 of the 4 internal bolts were loose and needed to be tightened. 1 of the 2 external bolts (underneath) also needed tightening. I only have 7K miles on the trailer. I guess I am going to have to add checking these bolts and screws on a more regular basis. I'm so glad this was a relatively easy fix. I will update the factory and cancel the ticket. Thanks again for all of your help and experience. Carl

Will do!

John, I couldn't find any of the set screws at the bottom. I went to ACE Hardware and got new set screws. Thank goodness for ACE. They seem to have everything. I put them into the motor housing. The one screw next to the water heater was a tough one to get in. I ran the stabilizing jack and it works perfectly now. Missing all three set screws seems a bit suspicious to me. Those screws are set deep into the motor assembly. I could imagine them becoming loose, but for all three to be missing and not able to find any of them makes me wonder if they were ever there. Oh well mischief, managed. I did spray the toggle switch with the silicon spray and it helped quite a bit. The action is much improved but I think a second application may be necessary. Thank you so much for your help John. I can't tell you how valuable your guidance is here on this forum. I will follow up with Oliver. Thanks so much! Carl

I just went out and checked on the curb side jack. I was able to turn the motor housing with my hand. There are holes for three set screws to hold the motor in place to the shaft. None of the set screws are there. I was able to lift the motor straight off the shaft. I don't think that is good. I will check the other side to see if the set screws are missing as well.

Thanks, I will perform both suggestions. I used an electrical cleaner on the toggle switches but that did not help resolve the stickiness. The toggle was sticking from the factory but I did not realize that it was an issue until later.

Greetings! I am having a problem with the curb side stabilizer jack. Periodically the jack will not descend. When it does, it make a horrible racket or clanking like something is loose or broken when it begins to descend. When you retract it, it doesn't make clicking sound like the other jacks do when they are fully retracted. I can also report that the toggle switch for the stabilizer jack is also sticking and remains in the "on" position by itself. The street side toggle does not do that so I am sure that it is not designed to stay on without physical contact. I have to manually move the switch to stop the retraction. I don't know if these two items are related but I anticipate they are. Our typical practice is to lower the jack until it makes firm contact with the round Anderson Jack Block on the ground. The jack hasn't totally failed but I anticipate that it will soon. What are your thoughts? I have submitted a trouble ticket with Oliver. They asked for video. I have sent them the recordings but I thought I would also check with the experts here on the forum. Thanks for your thoughts! Carl

Oliver was spot on the date they gave us which was October 21st of this year for Hull #924. I haven't heard anything on this forum about Oliver being being late or missing a delivery. If anything, they have been a early sometimes but if that is the case, they would notify you and you could possible make arrangements to still pick up your Oliver on the on the original delivery date. I am sure that if you explained your circumstances, they would work with you. That's the kind of the great company Oliver is. Carl

This is such a silly, simple thing but once I discovered this trick I use it quite often so I thought I would share it. When sitting at the forward dinette by the bathroom, I do not always sit straight ahead facing across the table or straight out facing the door. I'm usually sitting at a 45 degree angle facing into the kitchen. The trick I discovered was to take the backrest dinette cushion and put it diagonally across the seat at a 45 degree angle. When I rest against the back cushion. it wraps around my back and makes a very comfortable backrest. I've attached a picture so you can visualize its position. Have you discovered other simple tricks in your Ollie that make a difference in your comfort?

We spent Thanksgiving at the Oregon coast at Sunset Bay State Park near Coos Bay. The total mileage for the trip was 450 miles. I wanted to report back on the performance of the new hitch. The Curt hitch was phenomenal. I was able to level the trailer easily and it towed remarkably well. The hitch resolved all the problems I had with the Gen-Y Glyder hitch. My confidence in the performance of this hitch was far superior to the Gen-Y hitch. I'm sure the Gen-Y hitch is a great hitch, it just did not work for my application.

Oh man, it is everything we hoped for. It’s the perfect size for the two of us. The size allows us to go almost everywhere. So easy to pull and the Gladiator does a great job. The long trip home gave us both great experience with the Jeep and the trailer. My wife handles the trailer like a pro. The sizes does not intimidate her at all. I am surprised and pleased how well she does backing it into a tough site! She’ll be able to solo with “Lil’ tow” any time she wants. I'm also impressed with how well the Gladiator does pulling the trailer. I’m not going to win any speed records but it is very capable. Since I only get about 18-19 mpg on the highway I was very pleased to get 13.7 mpg as the towing average coming home. All in all, I couldn’t be happier. I have already started our vacation plan for 2022. Out next trip is just a couple of weeks away. When the ski areas finally open, I will get good experience pulling it in the snow. So much fun to look forward to!!! Carl

We recently returned home (3,500+ miles) from Hohenwald. We did not come straight home 🙂. I pulled the LE1 Ollie home with the Glyder hitch. For the most part it worked OK. We could not get the trailer level at the Oliver factory using that hitch. It’s important to note that our TV is a Jeep Gladiator. We finally settled on the trailer being somewhat “nose-up”. I needed to be able to lower the hitch ball at least another 3”. There is another adapter that Gen-Y sells but that would the make alignment worse. In this configuration, the hitch had a tendency to lift the tongue of the trail up when backing or during more sudden stops. By design the hitch raises up when the tongue weight drops. When backing the trailer into a site, the tongue would lift up and we had to make sure and pull forward slightly to make sure the hitch was in its lower position with the full tongue weight on the hitch otherwise the trailer would slightly shift positions then raising the tongue off the hitch when disconnecting. It gave us quite a start the first time it happened. It bothered me enough that I switched to the CURT 45949 Rebellion XD Adjustable Cushion Hitch Ball Mount 2-Inch Receiver when I got home. With 15,000 lbs of tow capacity and 1500 lbs tongue weight, and a 6-Inch adjustable drop. This hitch allows me to really dial in the trailer perfectly level. The new hitch pulls very well without the problems mention above. CURT 45949 Rebellion XD Adjustable Cushion Hitch Ball Mount 2-Inch Receiver, 15,000 lbs, 6-Inch Drop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S5GQ6W9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8YFH8QRV0KVSZ5FFV6RE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 This hitch is a much more robust hitch but after my initial test drive, I’m very pleased with the new hitch. if anyone is interested in a used hitch, let me know. Carl