DunnYet

Tucumcari makes a great spot to stop. Before and after attached - our first fiberglass trailer (Happier Camper HC-1) and our “last” fiberglass trailer (Reset 2.0 LE II #1364)

Managed to complete the job, as well as running the ford remote camera cable through the channel on the edge of the frame and greasing the zerks on the street side. It warmed up nicely yesterday, until the second part of the article air mass came through in the afternoon :-). Glad I did it though, the front street side shock fell apart in my hand. No piston movement at all. The remaining three all were various degrees of bad - wither compressed with one finger push or limited force. Compared to the new ones you could definitely feel the difference. Road testing Reset 2.0 after putting everything back together showed a distinct reduction in “wallow” on the uneven roads in our neighborhood. Two more projects off the whiteboard…

28 degrees this morning in Duncanville Tx. I will likely pull out the tent heater from our tent camping days and try to create a little heat bubble where I am working 🥶 But you are correct @jd1923 in the winter we long for heat and in the summer we wish for the cool. We are going to be camping out in Stonewall Tx this weekend (Texas Hill Country) and projections are for the low 20’s last time I looked. I have a feeling the warmest place will be in the Ollie, as the event we are attending is planned for an unheated barn filled with thousands of highly flammable barrels. Can’t exactly throw in a few propane patio heaters for warmth 💥

I had taken photos of our original equipment shocks when I last did the zerks, and showed them to Jason at the Texas Rally. He confirmed that I needed to replace those based on the photos. So today - in the one warm day in the foreseeable future - I started the project. Took forever to catch the Bulldog HD shocks available, but I finally got them. Started on the curb side, immediately ran into frozen nuts on the bottom of each shock. Penetrating oil, loosening spray, tapping with a chisel — none of those worked. Finally brought out the trusty angle grinder with a metal cutting blade to make the problem go away. Once the old shocks were out of the way placing the new ones were easy. Tribute to @rideadeuce I had to make sure I installed with the labels faced. Unfortunately, with the delays on the frozen bolts I only finished the first half of the job. So tomorrow I get to see how well I do with the street side in close to freezing temps. I will be envying you folks with Ollie barns …

That’s one of out “On the list” We have done the southwest sections on our trip with our Happier Camper to California. Looking at doing the section from Oklahoma to Chicago next.

We love that park. Camped there with our Happier Camper but want to go back.

I keep a very inexpensive yoga mat rolled up in the front bin for work under the trailer and for Anderson hitch chain adjustments. Since those almost always occur in gravel sites it keeps me from starting the day looking like I crawled through chalk and mud on the way to the truck. 🤣

End of the faucet (your option #2) The faucet itself is great - I'm just not sure if the water dispersal pattern out of the end of the nozzle is "normal" (i.e. working as designed) or if I have something adjusted wrong. Edited my original post as horizontal is too strong - more like a 45 degree cone...

So we upgraded Reset 2.0 (Hull #1634 '23 Model LE II) with the High Sierra Faucet. After receiving the adapter from High Sierra, we used the new faucet this weekend for the first time. Our experience was that the open aerator sent water all over the sink, putting the "wet" in wet bath. I'm sure that would make a great shower (short trip for Thanksgiving so not used as a shower this trip) but how do you keep it from soaking the sink when you are using it for hand washing or wetting the tooth brush. Even turning the water way down, it seems like more water goes horizontally than vertically. Edit: In all fairness it's more like a 45-degree conical pattern spreading out from the screenless aerator, but that hitting the sloping sides of the stainless-steel sink in the '23 model ends up getting the user and the sink pretty wet. All suggestions welcome, especially those that start with "You are doing it wrong..." 🙂

I should have listed that - all the lockers out there came back with a Tuesday delivery date - one day after we got back to Dallas. But that is a great option in most places!

Last Thursday we arrived at the campsite and, hoping to help Reset 2.0 (LE II Hull 1364) cool faster in the Texas sun extended the awnings. After completing setup, we decided to go explore. I grabbed the Awning Remote and hit the "In" button. "L" was what I got on the display. I assumed that the remote was not telling me that I was a total loser, and that this indicated a low battery condition. Lesson 1: There is no / zero / zilch reserve capacity on the awning remote - once it says L that stands for out of luck. I pulled the batteries out, shuffled them around, rubbed magic pixie dust into them and got two more pulses out of them to get the awning retracted. For those that don't have a full battery inventory of everything that uses a battery in your Oliver (that would include me) the awning remote uses three CR2430 Lithium batteries. This would be great if we camped in urban areas. However, as we were in the hill country of Texas ... Walmart Fredericksburg - no stock Home Depot - no stock Lowes - no stock Ace Hardware Fredericksburg - 2 Ace Hardware Wimberly - 2 Remember - I need 3.... So off on a delightful tour of Central Texas, kind of a preview of the Texas Rally coming up in October. Breakfast in Johnson City, battery pickup in Wimberly, shopping for flour and bourbon in Dripping Springs, lunch at Ab Astris in Hye, battery pickup in Fredericksburg, then back to the trailer in Stonewall. Lesson 2: Have a battery inventory and spares. I never thought about the fact that the awning remote had batteries... Lesson 3: Texas, especially the Hill Country, is a great place to drive around in. (Ok, so I already knew that 🤣.)

For what it's worth - I reached out to 4State yesterday after my Aug 27 shipping date passed with no update. The magic date for shipment is now September 15. Since it seems from this discussion we are all waiting for a batch to be built, I'm guessing this will impact everyone that is waiting for them. Cue "Fly Like an Eagle" ... "Time keeps on slippin' slippin' slippin' into the future"

Takes me back to my datacenter days. 🙂 "Why do you spin five generators when you can run the whole place on three?" "N + 1 and one to not spin up properly and get sent down."

Ours looks like this - Keyway is blurred because with AI these days you never know. It is a two-sided keyway - notches on the top and bottom of the key. If you did not get one with your lock contact service and there should be a serial number on the lock that would allow you to order a backup. Note that the key number is the blur where the grey box is.

Yep - I came across this thread and ordered from 4State. They said “ships in three days” but it’s been almost a month so far. When I contacted 4State they seemed puzzled as to why I was concerned that I had not received the product. Good to know I’m not the only one waiting on these.

I’m not aware of a default code for the lock. Do you have the override key? If its a LE II twin bed and (1) your basement door is not locked (2) you are agile and small and (3) you have the pass through door under the nightstand I have heard of people getting back in from there. We keep our physical key in the tow vehicle for this very reason. (Plus I am NOT agile and small….)

So true - I guess I am simply scared that if I invested in a subscription, I would consider it sunk cost and decide "Well I have the magazine, might as well get a boat." 🤣🤣

Thanks for sharing. The first paragraph looks interesting, but the rest is behind their paywall. While I sailed in high school (a long time ago), I don't see a boat in my life anytime soon, so a subscription is likely not a good investment for me. 😀 Looks like the author is advocating a drill guide method, which certainly seems like a promising path. With a growing number of holes that I need to put into our Ollie it's a topic I need to know more about. (Wanders off to do Internet research on drill guides and fiberglass.)

Hi Mike - welcome to the forum! We have pulled a LE I and LE II with our F150 EcoBoost Max Tow with no issues. Glad to discuss what we take and don't take - last trip to the scales we were fine on weight for the F150. Our most recent trip was Texas to Colorado crossing the divide several times - no problems going up or down the passes.

Well - it finally happened to us. We broke the hinge on the Norcold Fridge in Reset (Hull # 1030 LE I). Easy fix right? It is if you can source the parts. For reference, the parts are Left Hand Hinge - Norcold 619042 Right Hand Hinge - Norcold 619041 Unfortunately, I have only found a source for the Right Hand Hinge. The Left Hand Hinge seems to be very elusive. Have a service ticket in with Oliver to see if they have a source, as well as a request in directly to Norcold. Does anyone have a favorite source for Norcold parts that you could share? Or a spare hinge that I could purchase from you? 🙂

Would not recommend using them like this. Plus - I have no idea how the occupants ever reached that first step.

Loving these Colorado temps - Reset 2.0 #1364 at Eleven Mile Lake State Park Colorado. If you stay here do take time to do the Canyon. (What am I saying, most people with Olivers will be in the dispersed camping in the Canyon 🙂 )

All working - we had filled the tanks. I just got it in my head that I needed to switch the valves to pull from the tank. Not sure where that came from except a combination of our longest drive day, a thirty minute plus standstill after a wreck closed our only route, and just not having done a dry camp in a year or two. I sat there doing the prime step ( silver lining - was able to remove a thimble full of plastic shavings from the filter ) with the valves in boondock position. Finally in frustration switched back to normal and everything primed water started flowing etc. I then decided to etch my stupidity in stone by making this post questioning the diagram on the bench cover back. I seem to be determined to make the switch from the LE I to the LE II as traumatic as possible I guess. Have not even started my post on Truma Heaters and Truma Water Heaters and error codes that I never saw on my LE I. But I am making sure I have all my ducks on the same pond before posting that. (Gave up on ducks in a row long ago.)

Ok - so city water connection and fresh tank configuration are the same. (Facepalm) Have been traveling with our LE I for two years and somehow this never sank in. I keeping getting wrapped around the double axles on this LE II. yep - I blame the altitude. Hypoxia for sure. I need to go start making controversial posts on Facebook 🙂

That’s my thought - but I can guarantee that the water pump is pulling from the fresh tank. There is no city water hookup within 3/4 of a mile.