aaronorange

We find that we leave the closet door open while camping it get stuffy in there hot in the summer and cool in the winter. No ventalation makes it stuffy, we do store our dirty laundry bag/hamper in there. We are contenplating adding ventalation. Has anyone else done this? What were the results?

Update, I did eliminate the Tiwan made Optifuse and put in an inline 300 amp ANL fuse. Worked pretty good but the lug ends were heating above 130° (in a few minutes time). I went ahead and replaced the lug ends and the temp on those dropped 30°. Which confirmed my suspicions of bad crimps. Tested the Xantrex charger set to 150 amp as suggested by Oliver, the fuse will quickly heat up to 130° ish. (currently keep it set to 75 amp) When running the Truma AC which pulls 900 to 1200 watts and the fuse will get up around 138° and lugs 95°-112° (10 min. run). Not sure but guess these are normal temps. I had an RV solar technician tell me I could use a 400 amp ANL fuse since it uses 4/0 wire between the battery and inverter. I will test temps and research the use of a 400 amp fuse. Oliver sent me an email suggesting I remove the Opifuse and replace with a disconnect switch. I’m apprehensive about sleeping above an unfused wire. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Got it, thanks. I think the soft start is a good idea. We will probably get one too. I was planning on doing some testing when I get home. I see Ray (in the video linked here) says his same inverter will load share, his generator will not start the A/C on its own. He talks about this towards the end of the video @ 16:36 min. He also uses a soft start. We had one on our Dometic AC but upgraded to the much quieter Truma.

The Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 inverter/charger load shares by prioritizing AC loads. It reduces the charge current to the batteries while maintaining the total input current below the breaker setting, ensuring that connected AC loads receive the power they need. This is particularly useful when running multiple appliances, including those with high startup surges like air conditioners. This video demonstrates how the Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 handles various AC loads and its surge capability: 42s Love Your RV & Boat! YouTube · Jan 11, 2024 Here's a more detailed explanation: Prioritization of AC Loads: The Freedom XC Pro 3000 prioritizes the AC loads connected to it, ensuring they receive the power they need to operate. Charge Current Reduction: To accommodate the AC loads, the unit intelligently reduces the charging current going to the batteries. Input Current Management: It manages the overall input current, keeping it below the breaker setting, even when multiple appliances are running simultaneously. Example: If you have a 50-amp shore power connection and are using a 30-amp load, the charger might reduce its current to 20 amps to ensure the 30-amp load gets enough power. This video explains how the inverter/charger manages power distribution between AC loads and battery charging: 1m Love Your RV & Boat! YouTube · Dec 23, 2023 Load Sharing with Generators: The system can also work with generators, allowing you to run multiple appliances simultaneously, including those with high startup surges, by managing the power flow from the generator and batteries. Benefits: This load sharing feature allows for more efficient use of available power and prevents tripping of breakers due to excessive current draw. Example: You can run a microwave and an air conditioner at the same time, even if they are both drawing a significant amount of power.

It is my understanding that the Xantrex 3000 Freedom Pro XC should be able to load share. So if your running the Honda 2000w generator with the inverter switched on and you start the air conditioner the inverter should make up the difference in the start up surge. You should not require a soft start. You said you had the large battery bank so my assumption is you have the 640ah batteries with the 3000w inverter. I run our Truma off the battery bank no problem. The generator we carry is 4000w propane, but I have been looking into using our 2000w Honda which is about half the weight. You may want to check with Oliver or Xantrex but I’m pretty sure it should work. There is a setting for transfer speed Oliver suggests it be set to “Appliance” 20ms but it can also be set to UPS 10ms. I would think that might be better but maybe someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in. I know in the past we have lost shore power and didn’t even know since the inverter takes over instantly. Which is why I keep it off until needed.

Thanks again!

When the 300A Optifuse trips only the A/C was running nothing else is running except maybe an LED cabin light. This has been an issue since day one. It pretty much forces me to use shoe power all the time. Any (inverter) microwave run time longer than 2min will also trip the thermal breaker. I have had it to the Oliver service center but Jason said he had never heard of the issue and did not have a solution. I don have a thermal temp gun but It is very hot to the touch both the battery wire and 300A Optifuse. This was a factory installation and there have been no modifications. 2022 built.

At the time it tripped it was pulling 88 amps. This happened today, stopped at a rest stop for lunch and thought I’d give it another try. The A/c ran a couple minutes and then tripped. You’d think it would until the batteries were too low. Incidentally the batteries were at 100%. I charge them at 90A instead of the posted 150A. If the 150A charge setting is used it also trips the 300A Optifuse.

Where is the moderator? 🤦🏼

The patch idea is cool! Are those consecutive nights? We had 119 consecutive in 2024. Had a few long trips after that. We might break our record this year if we don’t stop over at home. 😎

Thank you! Yes, I have triple checked all the connections for tightness. Including the post inside the inverter. I’m really puzzled as to reason why this keeps happening. Because of heat issues and potential fire I don’t want to just start changing parts. However if I get the okay from Oliver or Xantrex I will replace the Optifuse/breaker with a fuse. I would rather have it in the battery compartment for access. It’s always a pain to get under the bed to reset the Optifuse. Especially in the middle of the night. I was at the Texas rally last year and will be there this year as well. When we left last year we went to the factory to switch out our noisy Dometic A/C for the Truma. I asked the other Jason about my Optifuse issue and he said he had never heard of such a problem and had no solutions. We are headed to Murfreesboro for a ceramic coating this summer so maybe I will try stopping by Oliver.

I have the Xantrex 3000 in a 2022 E2 w/390ah Lithionics. The 300A Optifuse continues to trip. This happens when the battery charger is charging while on shore power. Or when I run the AC at around 1000 ish watts on the inverter, it will typically throw an error 20 in that case as well. It seems to do short runs on the microwave oven (1 to2 min ok, haven’t tested long run times). As far as the inverter charger setting Oliver requires the Charger Current set at 150A. If left at 150A it trips. If I set it at 90A it seems to hold. We originally started with the Dometic A/C with soft start, same issue. Have since upgraded to the Truma A/C. Understand this doesn’t affect the charging side of the problem. I did open a ticket right after I bought it. Oliver sent a new Opifuse saying it must have been bad. Opened a second ticket but the issue goes unresolved. Is it possible the replacement Optifuse is bad? Any ideas? Thanks!

Thanks for the great explanation! I’m still having issues with the original 300a Optifuse breaker. Once we get home to Tucson I will try a fuse. Is there any reason why I couldn’t use a 300A battery post fuse? It would seem to be easier to replace if needed. Of course there is already terminal ends under the bed near the inverter.

That’s the same Optifuse breaker Oliver sent after I first reported the problem. Could I possibly have gotten 2 bad breakers? Back to the drawing board…

Thanks, what exactly did you get as a replacement? I will order a couple. Thanks again

My 300 amp optifuse keeps tripping when I try to run the Truma AC. It’s pulling around 800-1100 w when the a/c compressor runs. The fuse randomly but often trips. This is the replacement fuse/breaker from Oliver. They sent me a new fuse right after we bought it for the same issue. I was at Oliver last fall getting the Truma a/c installed and asked them about the constant Error 20 code but they had no idea. So this year I’m not getting the error code just the 300 amp Optifuse keeps tripping. And it is very hot when I reach down to reset. Tripped again today (5/21). Everything looks good and tight.

Mine also came loose, on my way to pick up some 3M VHB 4950 or the redialy avalible Gorilla DST

I see the Blue Seas is a 100 Amp fuse while the original Optifuse is 300 did you use this exact fuse? I'm going to try this one as well. Thanks!

I’m on my 2nd OptiFuse breaker. It trips often. Not sure what to do but I would like to replace it with something better.

Speedy RV charged me $50. David said it was half of his hourly charge. I was just happy to get things squared away and ready for travel. Our unit (1238) is a 22, so it was new looking as well.

New burner installed yesterday 4/24/25 by David of Speedy RV in Benson AZ. Thanks for all the input!

Has anyone received a replacement burner from the Truma water heater recall? It's been nothing but crickets on my end from Oliver. I have emails and calls to Oliver but have received no response yet. I haven't used my water heater for months, and need to know if it is safe to use. I suspect they may have been closed due to all the recent storms. Hopefully, everyone is okay.

Anyone know if Oliver got the replacement parts? I was told in January they were 60 days out. Was anyone told not to use the water heater?

Mine never fully seats. Our first dump was quite a surprise. The hose was completely full from the valve not seating completely. I now manually close it at the valve under the galley seat. I also keep a gate valve on the end of the hose. It seems to me the cable is to short, I have it fully adjusted. I do have a replacement cable but just not sure how to run it through the maze of obstacles. Has anyone replaced the cable?