Gliddenwoods

Yup, thats what was the problem...air leak. Thanks all.

Update. The draw from the boondock port is there, but very very weak. I put the Oliver back in normal use water use and added water to the fresh water tank. Then when I check the pump and water pressure to the two sinks the pump ran normal and very well. Went back to boondock setup and tried to draw water in back port. Again the draw from the back boondock port was very very weak. Is something blocking the line from the back boondock port to the pump...maybe?

I am attempting to draw bleach water into my boondock port to clean the tank. I have done this several times over the past few years. However today the port is not drawing water. I am sure (I think) I have all things set up correctly. The pump sounds normal. The port was working (and entire water system) upon return in April. The Oliver was stored in a heated building since our return. So what may I be missing? Any thoughts on checking the system. Is there a need/way to prime the pump? Thanks.

Checkout Bowlus trailers

I recently completed yet another replacement of one of the touch-enabled LED lights...again. This the fourth one I have had to replace and the others are fickle as to how one must touch them to turn on and off. Of course many of you know the hassle of having to drill out and replace the rivets. Why rivets? So I seek input on two options to at least reduce the pain of the touch-enabled LED lights...or make it go away. Option 1. Has anyone replaced the existing bloody rivets system with screws or pass-through small bolts with washers & nuts? The small bolt option would require counter-sinking/boring space for the upper nut and washer...but doable. Going forward when the lights fail again the rivet hassle will be gone. Option 2. Replace all the touch-enabled LED lights with 12v lights with individual switches. No more fickle on and off light touches...just an on and off switch on each light. Has anyone done this or considered this option? (I thought that Oliver Inc was considering this option at one time.) Does anyone have a recommendation of a replacement light that would work for such a change? Please share your thoughts as to the feasibility of either or both options. (Did I mention that I do not like the Oliver provided touch-enabled LED lights and/or the use of rivets to install them?) Thanks

Thanks for all the replies. However I realize that the replies have been about (since I was not clear in my first message) the cover edge when it is the lower compartment edge that the cover sits on that I am referring to. My error. There is a soft seal that is on the compartment edge....similar to a door seal. Mine is in bad shape and I need to replace. So...has any replaced the lower seal and with what?

Looks good. I assume it has been a secure tight for you. How long have have you had it applied? Do you use any glue? Thanks

Where have others purchased a replacement for the propane storage compartment cover seal? Any recommendations of brand, source and/or installation? Thanks.

Miss-print: Suburban. Too bad not connected to inverter with endless southern New Mexico solar charging.

Yes I also have the (2022) Platinum Package and never tried to run off the batteries. I planned to do the "test" you suggested when we returned home, but got lazy last night and posted the question.

Quick question. When not connected to shore power will the Dometic water heater operate off the lithuim batteries?

The proper way to dewinterize (per Oliver Travel Trailer written and video instructions) is to fill the fresh water tank 50 to 100% to dilute the antifreeze and flush the tank. After which one allows this water to drain out under the camper. So & thus, yes indeed, there is water in the fresh water tank to be drained. So...back to my original questions; any helpful suggestions?

When we depart from the cold north to begin a trip our Oliver is winterized. Upon a warm State the dewinterizing is to be completed. Two problems: 1.The fresh drain is so small it takes well over an hour to drain. Has anyone modified the drain outlet to speed up the process? How? If not modify the drain outlet are there other suggestions? 2. Draining the tank in a campground is prohibied. Are other owners driving down the road with the open? Or what? Thanks

Ordered two dust cap combos. In photo one set is (partially) installed on hose end and on my Oliver. Other uninstalled set on floor. They fit very nice

We actually do offer dust caps for our quick connect fittings, they can find found here: https://goblutech.com/collections/accessories/products/dust-cover-plug-blu-tech-quick-connect

SmartPlug...where did you purchase the kit from? Any install advice in addition to that the holes match and the use of Dawn lubicate?

Ahh...blue painter and duct tape; my go to tools.

That might work.

I recently purchased a couple Blu Technology Stainless Universal Hoses with quick release fittings as recommended by other Campers. I like the hoses because when not in use, and in storage, they take far less storage space than other hoses. However, when the hoses are not attached and the quick release fittings remain on my Oliver there is no cover for the fitting opening and the Oliver provided cover does not fit thus road dirt will be a problem. Any other Oliver owners with the same Blu Technology hose quick release fitting have a cover solution? Thanks.

If I purchased the PR4 Dexters as travel backups, and I have a roadside trip break, would they be a straightforward replacement install for a local garage? I have a 2022 Legacy II. With the history of breaks that others have had I am really considering packing an emergency replacement for our next long trip. I assume I should order two. Thanks.

Found the problem. Wires behind Seelevel II were not connected completely. Easy fix once found. Jason at Oliver was a great help; thanks to Jason!

Doing my end of the season sanitizing and when I tried to turn on the pump to draw in from the boondocking port the water pump did not start/make any noise. Check the 15 fuse and is good. Is there another "in-line" fuse for the water pump somewhere? Or other items I should check? Thanks.

I will have my annual ceramic coating inspection and update next week and at that time the technician will strip the ceramic coating in locations to install the flexible window gutters other Oliver owners have installed. Quick questions: *How far (inches) above and beyond & down the sides of the windows do you recommend? *Any installation advice to share with the technician? Thanks.

As per Jason ("I would just make sure the inverter is off and the shore power is disconnected. When you connect the wires make sure the breaker itself is tripped. Once all connections are good you can reset and verify it is working properly.") I installed/replaced the Optifuse breaker. After a few test discharge/recharges all appears to be working correctly...finally! I also worked with Xantrex and Lithionics call reps and made some small adjustments to the controls via the apps. Jason also added "We no longer use them (Optfuse breakers) as the system was changed in the '23 models with busbars and an ANL fuse & cutoff." Thanks for all the prior input & thoughts.