Bill and Nancy

I thought it was kind of expensive from OTT and there are a lot on the market for less than 1/2. I didn't think it would be necessary but after getting off the wrong exit on the way home and ended up in the Bronx NY I wish I had one. By the way I crossed the George Washington bridge and the toll was $72.00 Yup you read it right $72.00 There is a guy and wife on youtube called fit RV and he does a ton of modifications to his camper. I know that he installed a back up camera basically to replace his rear view mirror. I will have to watch it again to see what he used. Bill

John we have a GMC Diesel Canyon it was very easy to tow no problem at all. Altho I do find the mirrors a little small especially vertical, its hard to see the curb and side of the trailer at the same time I constantly re adjust them while backing up. I was wondering what back up camera do you have is it the one offered by Oliver? Thanks Bill

My wife is going to kill me for posting these but it won’t be the first time.

I spent better part of a day again and I think I’m going to bite the bullet and buy a new control board. Mike from Oliver is going to call some service centers and try and twist their arm and get back to me. I found that if the trailer temp is say 50 degrees and you set the thermostat to 60 degrees the fan will run and the flame stays lit for 15 minutes until the temperature is reached or almost reached. Then the fan stays on and the flame goes out then re lights then goes out sometime only seconds apart and other time minutes apart. In any case it will do this for up to 10 minutes before shutting off. I can’t imagine it could be anything else than the control board or a messed up thermostat. I’m looking into seeing if I can put a totally separate thermostat to run just the furnace and leave the AC on the other one. A nice simple on off thermostat just for the furnace.

Odds are it’s where the return air is located. I did a smoke test and the hot air is trapped under your bed and is getting sucked back into the cold air return and over heating the furnace. Just for a test duct tape over the return air vent. Turn the defuses on the supply to face forward. Now take the front seat cover off of your dinette seat and let the return air return through the open seat and under the floor. I think you will be surprised at what a big difference it will make. I plan to put a cold air return on the front of the rear seat of the dinette along the floor. This will draw the air from the floor back to the furnace. The new 2023 elite II has a return in the bathroom but they leave the main return open in the back. That doesn’t make a whole lot of sense to me. You end up having an 8 x 10 inch opening right next to the return of the furnace and a 3 inch opening 20 feet away in the bathroom. I can’t see how that is going to change much of anything. Even if it did help, in a house you never put a cold air return in a bathroom. It will cause the toilet smell to be sucked into the entire trailer along with moist air from the shower and possibly cause mold to form under the floor.

I figured I would give an up date. I spoke to Dometic today and they said that I need to bring it to a Dometic service center to have it fixed under warranty . They gave me the name of 3 service centers within 50 miles of me. None of them will work on the furnace under warranty because they do not sell Olivers. However they will work on the furnace at shop rate and none of them can look at it until January the earliest. One guy felt bad and told me that the way the warranty works is they get paid by the RV manufacturer not Dometic and the RV manufacture gets re reimbursed Dometic, so I get it its not their fault, but that kind of hangs me out to dry. I called Dometic back and they spoke to a supervisor and they sent me a furnace performance checklist to fill out and if I fill it out and send it in they will send me a new control board if everything checks out. So I said ok but I will need a wiring schematic so I know where to test the voltages at. They said we can't do that because of liability issues you will need to bring it to a service center and have them fill it out. It's just one big circle so I ordered a propane test gauge so I can test the gas pressure and I watched a dozen or more videos on things to try and I found some manuals on line. This is going no where. I called and left a message for Mike at Oliver tonight and told him what was going on and asked him to call me. My thought is to bring it to a service center and have them fix it even if I have to wait until January. I will pay the service center for the repair then forward the bill to Oliver for reimbursement and let Oliver fight it out with Dometic. We will have to wait to hear back from Mike to see what he thinks I should do.

Unfortunately I don't believe the Counteract filtered valve stems are the issue. The wheels already have them installed. I believe that I caused the problem by attaching screw on tire pressure monitors. They allow the valve stem to remain open at all times and the balancing beads bypass the filter mechanism and get stuck in the valve core causing it to remain open. I have Counteract beads in my motorcycle tires and its never been an issue, but I have internal tire pressure sensors. So I think I will either remove the beads or install internal sensors before spring. Either should solve the problem. Thanks for the feed back Bill

I read your post and Im wondering if I may have been the cause of some of the balancing bead issues. On the way back home from TN to MA this past October and two days after we took delivery of hull number 1265 I decided to take off one of my tire monitors to add a little air to one of my tires. When I removed the monitor I noticed that the valve was leaking and poking it with a pin would not stop the leaking. So I screwed the sensor back on to stop the leak and we looked for an auto part store so that I could get a new valve stem and buy the little removal tool needed to take the stem out. . When I went to change the valve stem I could not remove it, it was stuck, it would unscrew but would not come out. So rather than fussing with it while on the road I decided to put the spare tire on and deal with it when I got home. When we got home I called Oliver and spoke to Mike and they had no Idea what could be going on. So I called a local tire garage and asked them if they ever had this happen. The first word out of his mouth was do you have balancing beads in your tires and I said I have no idea. So I called mike again and he said they no longer used them but I believe my trailer still has them in it. I then decided to check all my tire and sure enough another one was leaking and once again I couldn't get the valve stem out. But this time I was home with a shop with an air compressor and more tools and I finally got the valves out and replaced them. My best guess is there is beads in my tires. So I think I will pull them off this winter bring them to the garage and remove the suspected beads. On another note we also begged and asked Josh from the day we order our 2022 trailer on multiple occasions if we could wait and pay the upgrade for the Truma furnace but we got no for an answer, l guess we didn't beg hard enough. The fact that we are having a problem with our Dometic furnace makes it is even more annoying. Hey its all good, life isn't perfect we will navigate the bumps in the road and figure it out. All in all we love our little house and for the most part Oliver has been great.

Check out www.wildbird.zenfolio.com I have a bunch of pictures of my long ez there. I got priced out of the aviation market with fuel and everything especially avionics it wasn’t fun any more. Plus up in MA a lot of little airports closed and most of my flying buddies are gone or moved on to other things. I still have access to a 182 that I fly now and then. It’s time for a new adventure.

I don’t know about 2020 but 2023 come with truma furnaces and AC. We tried to up grade to truma but they were not available in October on our 2022 model but you can up grade now for about $4,000.00 I think. Don’t hold me to that but I think that’s about where the price is

I imagine they would I haven’t pushed that hard it was only yesterday that we have determined that it is a problem with the furnace. At least it appears to be that and not an issue with Oliver. I will pick Dometics brain if they answer the phone on Monday and if they give me grief I will bring it up with Oliver. I’m sure we will figure it out it just takes some patience to narrow the problem down.

Yes I agree I plan to do that but because of the holiday I couldn’t speak with anyone at Dometic. I’m really surprised that Oliver wasn’t a little more helpful. They basically said to contact Dometic it’s warrantee’d by Dometic not Oliver.

Hi this is Bill again with an update. My wife Nancy and I have pretty much narrowed it down to the furnace and not the thermostat. Yesterday when we should have been eating turkey we spent most of the day out in the trailer. We got some smoke candles to see where the return air was coming from. The rear most air duct is situated only about 2 feet from the return air duct. With smoke candles we determined that a large amount of the heated air coming out of the duct would get sucked back into the return before it ever had a chance to warm the trailer. We theorized that this may be causing the furnace to over heat. So we decided to block the return air grill with duct tape and remove the front dinette seat to see what would happen. It greatly improved the air flow returning the air through the open front seat. But the short cycle was not improved. After playing with different return air options I believe I will make a return vent on the face of the rear dinette seat under the table. This area is a better choice than the front seat because the return air has little to no obstructions going back to the furnace. I plan to install a return about 1/4 inch off the floor so it will pull the cold air directly from the floor not 6 inches above the floor as it is designed now. Next we removed the supply grills and inspected the flex pipe and left the grills off to see if they were producing to much back pressure, nothing changed. We then replace the propane tank with a new full tank, nothing changed. Then we removed the awning side bed to let as much air into the furnace as possible, nothing changed. But we did figure out that the flame is going out about 2 seconds after it ignite's then relights 10 seconds later then goes out again and re-lights again about 6 times in 5 minutes this continues until the thermostat shuts the furnace off when the desired temperature is reached. Next I removed the sail switch and cleaned some lint off, nothing changed. I contacted Oliver and they were of no help at all they said to contact Dometic directly as it is a warrantee issue with Dometic and not an installation issue that would be covered by Oliver. So I went to a local Dometic service center and they said that they can not do any warrantee work because they do not sell Olivers. Gee thats nice seeing how no one sells Olivers. But they did tell me that they believe its the control board as it is a common problem and it should be replaced under warrantee. The other possible cause could be either the sail switch or the flame sensor. So I have a phone call into Dometic and filled out a work ticket we will have to wait until Monday to see what they will do. If Katanapilot happens to see this post, I see in your picture you have a RV7A I built a Vari Eze a Long Ez and an RV7, Ive sold them all and bought a BMW 1200GS and an Oliver, go figure! Hence the email N227EZ@gmail.com Bill

Thanks for all your input. Bill has built fiberglass airplanes in the past, and if it takes cutting holes in things he is perfectly capable.

We will give this a try and see what happens, how did you resolve the issue with the return vent?

This is the latest information that was sent to Oliver Service, When the heat turns on and off the temperature on the thermostat LCD displays remained the same. According to the manual there should be a 2 degree set back before the heat turns back on. This does not seem to be the case the heat cycles on and off at the same temperature according to the LCD display on the thermostat. After the heat shuts off, the temperature has not dropped the 2 degrees yet the furnace starts back up. Also when the heat is off, approximately 1 -2 minutes before the heat kicks back on the air conditioner starts to click. It will click 3 to 5 times within this period before the furnace starts. Here are some stats: Outside temp 26 degrees set thermostat to 60 degrees. Heat came on and shut off when the temperature on the LCD display read 59 degrees. I have 2 other thermometers in the trailer one read 52 degrees and the other 53 degrees an 7 to 6 degree difference. The heat shut off and the LCD display still read 59 degrees. The heat remained off for 4 minutes and 40 seconds then restarted. This continued until I decided to call it a night. Off: 4:40 min/sec On: 9:36 " Off: 2:59 " On: 8:53 " Off: 5:41 " On: 7:42 " Off: 5:34 " On: 9:33 " Off: 3:49 " On: 7:55 " Off: 3:17 " On: 9:00 " Off: 2:23 "

Differential is set at 2 which is the most it can go. From what we've heard most people don't hear their furnace turning on and off and clicking every minute. It's like a dripping faucet, the noise will drive you insane. Thanks for the info on the ac driving the furnace

We have done all of the above already. As of this morning this is where we are at: We did the following to check on the heater: Checked vent connections and visual inspection around the furnace. The Dometic thermostat has been re initialized and the degree off set is set to 2 degrees -Tested this morning with 2 additional digital thermometers mounted on the wall next to the thermostat. The Dometic thermostat was set to 55 degrees with the fan setting on Auto. The outside are temp was 35 degrees. Furnace came on and raised the temperature to 56 degrees according to the Dometic thermostat and furnace shut off. The other 2 thermometers read 53/52 degree 1 minute after furnace shut off there was a double clicking sound that came from the air conditioning unit mounted on the ceiling 1 minute later a 2nd double clicking sound came from the ac unit 10 seconds later a 3rd double click sound came from the ac unit 10 seconds later a 4th double click sound came from the ac unit 30 seconds later a 5th single click sound came from the ac unit and the furnace turned back on again The temperature read 55 degrees on the Dometic when the furnace restarted and ran for a few minutes and then shut off when the temperature on the domestic read 56 degrees. This has been forwarded to service. Sorry for not providing hull info, etc at the bottom, new at this... 2022 hull# 1265 with dometic ct thermostat/furnace

It comes on, warms up and once it gets up to temperature it cycles on and off every minute or two constantly.

Has anyone else had this issue, our furnace cycles on and off approximately every 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. It got to the point that we turned it off completely on our drive back to Massachusetts after picking up our new Ollie at the beginning of October. So far we have no answers other than to try to reinitialize and set the temperature degree spacing. That has not worked and we are waiting for further info from service, there does not seem to be any blockages, fan is coming on and the heat does work when it is running. It seems to cycle on and off more when the temperature drops below 40 degrees.