Bill and Nancy

I would have never thought of putting it there. I would think it would be low to get the cold off the floor rather than the heat off the ceiling. But I also think its a tiny trailer and it doesn't make much difference its not like we are trying to efficiently heat and cool a 4,000 square feet house. The only reason I did what I did is it took me literally 10 minutes and I was curious to see if it would make a difference. I like the vent it looks like art, Nice Job Bill

Yes my original plan was to do that. But I wanted to see if it would even make a difference before I went through the extra effort . This took me about 10 minutes to swap the piping around to try it and it worked better than anticipated. Next step will be to clean things up a bit and most likely run rigid pipe where possible. Bill

I switched the supply lines around. The red line is now connected to the defuser under the bed from the right side of the furnace. It is a very short line about 3 feet in length from the furnace directly to the defuser. I disconnected it from the left side of the furnace and re connected it to the right side of the furnace. Then I shortened the other blue line by almost 2 1/2 feet and connected it to the left side of the furnace so that runs to the bathroom. The red line makes a tight 180 degree turn more than I would have liked but that’s the amount of line that I had and it may provide a little resistance to the air flow which is a good thing. I’m amazed at the difference it made in the bath room. Its hard to calculate the difference but It’s at least 3 time as much heat coming out of the bathroom defuser than before. And the other two defusers seem to be putting out just as much air. See video. Bill IMG_0165.MOV

Thanks for the info I have a new I phone and every-so often I would see the sos feature pop up on the screen. I asked my wife what it was and she had no idea and said that it doesn't do it on her phone. Thanks for the answer and the video link. Hopefully we will never use it. Bill and Nancy

We have reviewed this program but defer to the information that @Rivernerdprovided. We have been in retail far to long and had to defend ourselves against a franchise in the past. This language is all too familiar. We wouldn’t move forward until the language is changed. If it is changed we would look forward to showing our Ollie and would be happy to be part of the program.

Ok I did some more test to confirm my beliefs based on comments from bhncb and jpk323. To be honest I’m kind of surprised with what I’ve found. Bhncb believes there is not a remote heat sensor in the AC unit. Jpk323 said he had a phone call with an independent RV repair person and he believes it’s the control box in the AC unit. If it turns out to be either the Dometic thermostat on the wall or the control box in the AC my solution does not fix the problem it just circumvents it. So today I ran the heat connected exactly like it was wired from Oliver and then warmed the Dometic thermostat with a blow drier. To my surprise the furnace shut shut off. So this would lead me to believe it is either a faulty thermostat or the control unit in the AC . Oliver said they will send me a new thermostat and to try it. If it fixes the problem then that’s that. if it doesn’t then it must be the control box in the AC. In any case if it turns out to be the control box I don’t think I will replace it unless the AC is also messed up because of it. The heat works great the way I have wired with no cycling or clicking in the AC. It’s never easy Bill

Jack we live in new england and We don’t like the heat either. As a matter of fact we are heading out to go skiing in a few minutes. We had planed to use the trailer while skiing so heat is a must. But on the flip side like I said we live in NE so when the temperature gets above 70 the ac is on high. The way I have it hooked up now you just flip the switch and you are back to the way it came wired from Oliver and your heat and AC works just like it did before the modification. If you or any one else wants to talk or needs better pictures just shoot me an email. Got to go skiing and have a scotch at the mountain Bill and Nancy

I believe the problem will still happen because the temperature sensor is in the AC unit on the ceiling. On a cold day the furnace flame would light then when the temperature was reached inside the trailer according to the temperature bulb in the AC unit the flame would go out. But before the cool down cycle would even finish and before the fan shut off the flame would re light because the temperature bulb in the unit is against the cold roof. The heat rises up to the AC unit causing the flame to go off It then cools enough in about 45 seconds to re-light the furnace. This went on for about 2 hours until we just decided to shut the heat off so we could sleep. The next morning it was 45 Degrees in the trailer and 22 degrees outside. We tried camping 3 other times with the same problem making the trailer almost useless to us. With the fix It no longer does this, it works like expected. As far as running the AC for circulation its not necessary, plus its very noisy. We just run the fantastic fan with the cover closed like a ceiling fan and its quiet and does the job. Im sure there are other ways to deal with this problem but this has seemed to fix the problem and it was cheap and easy. Another plus for us is we may switch to a different ac unit that is quieter and it will be completely independent of the heat. Bill

I decided to fix it my self because I dont trust a lot of the service people. Everyone I spoke to were hours away and i would have to take time off from work, and Im sure it would have been more than one trip. On top of that no one I spoke to would fix it under warrantee they would bill me then I would have to submit the bill to Oliver to try and get compensated. Jason from Oliver got me approved to send me a new thermostat for free but I dont believe it is the problem.When I finally decided to fix the problem my self it only took me a couple of hours to complete. I spent about $50.00 and It not only is working perfectly but I dont have to shut off the heat in order to see what the temperature is. The thermostat from Demetic that was installed by Oliver still controls the AC but the heat its controlled by a separate thermostat that I mounted above the passenger side bed. Its been in the 20's all week and its working perfectly. I also think that its using less propane because its not going on and off like it was before. Bill

I’m back and I think I resolved my issue I had to wait until after the new year so I had some free time. After many phone calls and web searching I decided to try what I read on some other RV forums. This is not an uncommon problem and it drives not only me crazy but a lot of other people in the RV word. From what I can deduce the actual temperature sensor lives in the AC unit on the ceiling not in the thermostat mounted on the wall. This poses a problem because heat rises into the unit then it cools fast because it is against the roof and not on an interior wall. so I isolated the thermostat wires coming from the furnace and with the use of a DPDT switch I isolated the furnace from the AC altogether. Now the heat in the trailer is controlled from the battery operated thermostat independent from the AC. If I put the switch up I have heat controlled by the remote battery operated thermostat and no more cycling on and off. If I want AC I switch the switch down and now the AC works exactly the way it was wired originally using the Dometic thermostat installed by Oliver. So far it seems to have fixed the problem completely. Now that the cycling has stopped I plan to add a return air vent under the front Dinette along the floor. That should help with the return air flow by taking the return air directly from the floor up front away from the supply air. Sent from my iPad

Its been in the 20s the last few days and it seems to be working like it should. What a difference it has made and it was a relatively simple fix for the cost of a $5.00 switch, a $35.00 batterie operated thermostat and a little bit of wire. Bill

Hey bill I would be interested in what other mods you did to your heating system I plan to run a new return and possibly supply lines after the holidays. I to am considering the Truma AC. Merry Christmas Bill

Check out this link these connectors are great and can be configured any way you want. connector

It will be a tight fit but I think it will just make it if your carful. With out looking up the specs I think its 9 feet wide by 9 feet 6 inches tall. Dont forget the length 26 feet is about as small as you want I wish I built my pavilion 30 feet incase I decide to side it. . John is correct if you want to work on it it needs to be much bigger but the door size of 10 x10 may just make it but not by much. My pavilion is 14feet wide 12feet high and 26 feet deep. Bill

We got 6 inches last night the average for the winter is usually only a couple feet or so. We haven’t had a good Nor’easter in about 5 years

its funny you mention Bird proofing my winter house my wife and I own a wild bird store and we help people with this type of thing all the time. Bird poop washes off I’m not to worried about it right now but if it becomes an issue I’ll do something about it. it’s usually the Easter phoebe that is the problem for us but they are pretty easy to deal with. nice building and driveway good job 👍 . Bill www.thebirdstoreandmore.com

Yes hydrogen fuel cells combined with next generation nuclear reactors is defiantly a step in the right direction. Iceland is very big on hydrogen powered vehicles do to the large amount of geothermal heat to make electricity making hydrogen production cheap. Elon musk announced his Hydrogen fuel cell powered car a few days ago. He also said that Tesla will be all Hydrogen by I think he said 2025.

I spent this summer working on Olies winter home and just finished it this morning just before it snows tomorrow.

Yes I agree with your definition of short cycling, I am experiencing a different problem. When the temperature in the trailer gets close to the temperature displayed on the thermostat the flame goes out then re-lights anywhere from seconds apart to minutes apart, this will continue 10 or more time in less than 8 minutes until the desired temperature is reached. But I do believe there is more than one problem so I need to figure out why the flame keeps going out first, then move to the next step.

I have the Dometic furnace and thermostat. When I get a minute I plan to isolate the two wires that go from the furnace to the controller in the AC. I will then use a volt meter to determine when the thermostat is calling for heat. If the flame goes out and I still have 12 volts on the open side of the switch then its not the thermostat causing the problem it would have to be something internal in the furnace. I need to Isolate one problem at a time I ruled out air flow both on the supply and return. At this point I believe its in the control board in the AC but I need to dig a little deeper to be sure.

Mark where does the error code show up?

I’m extremely busy this time of year and I don’t have any free time. But after the holidays I hope to get to the bottom of this. I’ve been all over the place with Oliver and Domestic on this issue. I’ve already spent a lot of time doing diagnostics. I picked up a battery operated thermostat with the intentions of bypassing the existing thermostat completely. I will update with what I find but it most likely won’t happen until after new years . Merry Christmas