Steve and MA

The recent posts about adding lights to the rear and tongue reminded me to share this. There had also been a few previous posts about the bright exterior lights, and some mentioned adding dimmers. We've added these dimmers to ours. From what I've read, Oliver has changed the way the exterior lights are switched over the years so this modification may not work for everyone. On our 2022 LE2, the four Porch lights on both sides of the trailer are on a single switch, as are the lower Courtesy lights. The Porch lights are quite bright, which can be very annoying, especially to neighbors on the streetside. Though we can just use the awning light if we need to keep the streetside dark, sometimes we like less intense lighting. These dimmers replace the rockers in the original control panel. It's an easy modification, but requires enlarging the rocker hole slightly. We also added a dimmer to the Main Cabin lights. (Note: the blue light ring in the picture doesn't indicate whether the light is on/off, it's always on or off depending on a separate setting.) Steve

Very clever use of basement space. Never thought of removing the panel under the nightstand to gain a few inches of height. Blutech didn't offer their low profile filter system at the time we set ours up, and most softeners small enough for the basement have limited capacity between recharges, so we installed our filter/softener system in our TV, which also has two Blutech hose reels with quick connects for intake from city water and output to the Oliver fresh tank. The reels each hold 50' of hose, so reach hasn't been a problem. Even when full hookups are available, we fill the fresh tank and rarely use the city water port. The basement door stays shut. We also have the Nature's Head, so we only deal with fresh and gray. We run out of fresh water about the same time the grey is full. The inaccuracy of the gauges isn't much of a problem since the grey can't overfill from a single fresh tank, and we haven't ever run out of fresh water before knowing it was low. Steve

Just looked at the 2026 LE1 sales info. The only factory inverter option is the 2000 Watt Pro series. Also looking at the 2026 LE1 owner's manual, it shows the following for inverter equipped units: CIR #3 AIR CONDITIONER 15 AMP CIR #2 WATER HEATER 20 AMP CIR #1 INVERTER 25 AMP MAIN — 30 AMP SUB-MAIN INVERTER SUB-PANEL 25 AMP CIR #4 RECEPTACLES 15 AMP CIR #5 MICROWAVE RECEPTACLE 15 AMP Circuits #4 and #5 are on the inverter sub-panel side of the breaker box. This is just a guess, but could it be that the Cir #4 receptacles and Cir #3 air conditioner are reversed? It would be easy to test. Does the air conditioner have power when the inverter is your 120 vac source? If you try this, make sure no other circuits are in use.

This suggests the inverter doesn't supply power to the induction cooktop. If that's the case, I have no idea why Oliver would wire wire it that way. I know that in older models, the Xantrex 2000 watt inverter did not power the air conditioner, but not powering an induction cooktop by design doesn't make much sense. Steve

The UVC purification faucet comes with a 120VAC/12VDC adapter that plugs in to the faucet. It doesn't come with a separate 12VDC cable. You can either buy a DC5521 connector or you could cut it off from the 12VDC side of the supplied power adapter. Apparently Blutech doesn't think the unit needs to have an On/Off switch even though it draws a small current when on standby. I didn't take pictures during the installation, and now everything is hidden from view. Since we don't have a second awning, I installed a power switch where the streetside awning switch would normally go. I tapped into the refrigerator 12VDC power supply, which is already on a 30 amp fuse, and added an inline 3 amp fuse for the UVC. The wire connections are simple, but routing them like I did requires removal and replacement of the microwave oven. Our cartridge water filters and softener are mounted in our TV, a Sprinter van. Winters are mild in San Antonio. I don't bother with the pink stuff, which shouldn't be used with the filtration system. I use compressed air to clear water from the lines of both the TV filters and the Oliver. If we're expecting unusually cold weather, it's easy enough to remove the softener and filters from the TV. At the time I installed it, Blutech only offered the UVC filter as a faucet. Now they have an inline filter as well as some packages that include a UVC filter with their cartridge filters. I think their inline filter would be hard to fit under the kitchen sink, but it wouldn't require cutting a hole in the countertop. I like the dedicated faucet with UVC filter since it only runs for drinking water, so the 2000 hour UV LED should last longer than if all the kitchen cold water is run through it. Steve

We tow with a sprinter 3500 van. With its roof mounted accessories, it's a bit taller than the LE2. Its radio antenna is mounted just above the center of the windshield. We switched out the standard mast with a longer antenna that's extends about 2" higher than anything else for just that reason. It serves as an overhead curb feeler.

@jd1923, I also have the Noco Genius 10 for maintaining the chassis batteries on my motorized RVs. Last summer I accidentally let the chassis battery on my Pleasure Way discharge completely. After using the repair mode on the charger, it's been holding a full charge. Noco claims the repair mode pushes up to 16.5 volts to reverse battery sulfation and stratification caused by storage at low charge. Maybe @DBL-R can restore the existing batteries with such a charger.

Seems like you can already dry camp for over a week at a time without needing to recharge your batteries. Are your batteries limiting the duration of your adventures? We have the factory 630 AH package and it's proven to be more than enough. For us it's the holding tank capacity that limits us to 5 - 6 days off grid. We have taken advantage of the battery capacity for running the air conditioner overnight when camped without shore power, but we recharge with a generator during the day.

We upgraded to the Truma Aventa and opted for the remote instead of spending extra on the CP Plus panel. The CP Plus doesn't control non-Truma devices, so there's still a separate wall thermostat for the heater. We have the Truma water heater, so it would have controlled it too, but I understand troubleshooting water heater issues is easier with the rotary dial control than with the CP Plus panel. We mounted the cradle for the Truma remote on the wall using VHB tape, next to where we had already mounted the cradle for the MaxxFan remote. We don't have to get up out of bed in the middle of the night to make adjustments.

A couple of weeks ago we had to replace the CO/Propane alarm in our 2022 like @John Dorrer and @Dave and Kimberly, also 2022 models. Is there something about the original alarms that's causing them to fail at only ~4 years time? In our case the unit was going off even though the propane was off, there was nothing nearby generating CO and the batteries were charged. Like @John Dorrer, when I clipped the wires to replace the unit, I shorted the circuit when the + wire dropped and made contact with the foil insulation. I would have pulled the fuse first but didn't know where it was. I went through earlier threads on this topic to find its location. It's easy to replace, but hard to find if you don't know the area to search. If I hadn't found it, I would have run a new + wire to an empty slot in the 12v fuse panel. That would probably violate some RVIA code, but it would make it easier to shut it down the next time it starts to fail (would not do for a potentially valid alarm). The replacement unit came with Wago type connectors, so disconnecting will be easy if the need arises.

We definitely like the rubber backed woven vinyl floor cover. We use a runner in the main aisle plus an inside door mat that work okay, but they don't stay in place. I've thought about having a custom cut one-piece carpet with bound edges similar to what's shown in the video to cover the entire floor. It would be easy to remove & replace for deep cleaning. Has anyone done this for their Oliver?

I agree. Though it's not on our trailer, we have the Chill Cube installed on our Pleasure-Way Excel, a 20' class B which has interior volume similar to our LE2. A small amount of condensate does run off the back of the van, but not nearly as much as it did with the 13.5k BTU Coleman Mach that it replaced. The PW van isn't as well insulated as an LE2, and it probably has a lot more heat gain than an Oliver due to the windshield. In the Texas summer heat, it has maintained cool and comfortable temperatures in our van far better than the Coleman, and it's much quieter. I think Furrion markets the Chill Cube as 18K because it works better than some other brands that have higher labeled BTU ratings. If they marketed it as a 9k BTU unit, then it would likely be overlooked by many, considering it as being too small. Knowing what we do now, if this AC had been available two years ago then it would have been a no brainer alternative to the expensive Truma upgrade.

Have you checked Oliver University on this website?

We installed a Furrion Chill Cube on our Pleasure-Way Excel class B last August. In this application it sits down in a well, so it isn't the highest thing on the roof. We're very happy with its performance. Cools well in South Texas' August heat. I don't have hygrometer, but humidity doesn't seem to fluctuate. And it's quiet, even quieter than the Truma in our LE2. Very little condensation runs off the back of our rig. Supposedly some of it is used to cool the condensation coils, but I can't confirm this. The air distribution box and the remote have controls for heat, but I don't see that Furrion has released an optional heat strip yet. The only thing I don't like about this unit is the oscillating vent. It cycles between straight down and straight forward, closing completely before opening back up. It could be a hazard when it's blowing forward due to its sharp edge. Fortunately, the oscillating feature can be turned off and it automatically closes when not running.

Another 120v unit with an inverter compressor (e.g. Furrion Chill Cube), or are you thinking of a 12v DC unit to run off of your 600 AH Epoch lithium battery bank?