Touch Light Replacement

[Boilermaker Chemist]

Like many others, I had to replace one of my touch lights because it went “wonky”. For the replacement, I purchased the 3000K Obeaming RV Interior Ceiling Dome Light 4.5 Inch from Amazon: 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZDM19W?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1_1&th=1

In the hope that it might help others, here are a few things that I observed during the repair.

The light that failed was over the sink. Since the original light was fastened with rivets, I used a 1/8” drill to remove the old rivets. Apparently there is another layer of fiberglass inside the overhead cabinet that would have had to be removed to get access to the rivets. So I just used a needle punch to push the rivets out of their holes without bothering to retrieve them.

After removal, I cut the wires close to the old light. The wiring was about 20 gage, so I used small wire nuts to connect the new light. Note: make sure you rewire based on polarity and not color. In my case, the black wire on the old light was positive but the black wire on the new light was negative. I wrapped the connections with silicone tape to prevent the wire nuts from loosening up. There was enough room to stuff all of the wiring back in.

As luck would have it, the mounting holes on the new light were a nearly perfect match to the old one, so no new holes needed to be drilled. I used 1/8” x 3/8” rivets to fasten the new light in place.

I like that the new light has its own push button switch. Hopefully that will help prevent it from getting “wonky” :-).

 

 

[Galileo]

23 minutes ago, Boilermaker Chemist said:

I like that the new light has its own push button switch. Hopefully that will help prevent it from getting “wonky” :-).

Not sure if this is the same one we bought. Also from Amazon (where all good things come from) and has a physical pushbutton as well. As @Boilermaker Chemist notes - a real ‘switch’ means that when the power is off - it’s off. With the touch light, they’re always “on” and waiting to sense your finger. 

We had some weird ‘on’ conditions on the same (over the sink) light that preceded full failure: flickering, inconsistent operating, half-brightness. That kind of behavior always worries me. 

Maybe it’s obvious, but the most frequently used fixtures are the ones failing. I wouldn’t expect that with a “switch” that shouldn’t “wear out”. Of course, the second most commonly-used light - over the dinette - is showing signs of failure. Luckily, the package from Amazon had two lamps. 

Replacement as @Boilermaker Chemist describes are similar to my experience - except I did soldered splices with heat shrink tubing to insulate.