Tom and Doreen

Re-check that your valves under the curb side bed are in the proper position. There is a valve that if in the wrong position will allow city water to flow into your fresh tank.

@MAX BurnerGreat write-up / procedure, very informative; thanks!

I cannot imagine that Oliver will want to play “middleman” when it comes to managing service appointments, that would be quite a headache to manage. Sadly I believe the response will be to see your local dealer. It’s unfortunate that service at the factory will no longer be an option, we really enjoyed going down to the factory for service; great people.

I don't honestly know how the ram 1500 air system works but on my truck I can select "manual" mode to prevent the air suspension from auto-correcting. The other method is to turn the ignition off thereby deactivating the air pump.

Doug and Jill, congratulations! Don't worry about the towing, you'll hardly know the trailer is back there and the trailer tucks right in behind the truck so if your truck can make it trough a narrow spot your trailer will too.

This was the case with ours, fiberglass dust had gotten into the panel switches; the blue indicator LED would flicker along with the cabin lights in our case.

We have the ProSmart system that Oliver installed ( tank bottom sensor ) and we've had one of the devices fail and the other is difficult to connect to. I did purchase the Truma handheld device as a backup and it works pretty well with the minor limitations listed in previous posts; the device must be placed at a right angle to the tank and multiple readings are required to determine the level at which the propane is found. As I said it works pretty well but it's fairly expensive. The least expensive method, and pretty accurate, is to pour warm water down the side of the tank and then slide your hand down the tank to feel the point at which the tank goes from feeling warm to cold; that's your propane level. I use this method at times and it's works well. I used this method to verify the Truma device's accuracy.

The use of an autotransformer during periods of low line voltage will increase line current which could under certain circumstances stress components such as circuit breakers and cause additional heating of connectors and junctions especially those which may be oxidized. Not much of a problem in modern well maintained campgrounds but could be a problem in lesser capacity, poorly maintained / engineered campgrounds. Another explanation is here.

Disclaimer: I've never had to replace one of these devices but there is interesting information on this site: SeeLevel Tanks Sensor

If you turned the EMS off and you're now charging correctly you may want to investigate why your EMS is preventing your generator from supplying power. Possibly a problem with the EMS itself or there could be truly something wrong with your generator output. By turning your EMS off you will no longer be protected from AC line problems. Is it possible that you could borrow a external power watchdog to test the output of your generator?

It does sound like the generator cannot supply enough power to satisfy the amount of current needed to charge the batteries. The breaker setting is a good place to start as mentioned above. There is also another setting, #24 (charger current) that allows you to adjust the amount of current allowed to charge your batteries. For lithium batteries I believe the setting is 150 amps. You can try changing that value to something lower ( as a test ) to see if that helps, you can try something really low like 10 amps as a test.

We have been using the "second jug" method and it's worked out pretty well for us.

Tom & Doreen, site #F59, Connecticut #1321

This is a follow-up to my earlier post regarding the E5H error. Truma did respond with the following description for the E5H code: "ionisation voltage recognized during standby mode. Could have been from a solenoid sticking for a moment due to moisture on the sensor, or a voltage spike". In my case I'm sure it was due to moisture as a result of traveling during heavy downpours.

Allen, absolutely satisfied; highly recommend it. When driving into a campsite you can find the most level section from within your tow vehicle and then fine tune when setting up.

I'm posting this in case anyone else encounters this problem: We were traveling back east from Hohenwald in a driving rain storm through GA and upon setting up at the campsite could not get the Truma furnace to heat; the error E 5 H was displayed on the digital display panel. The Truma documentation that I have did not list this particular error code. The furnace had been operating flawlessly prior to the rain storm so I suspected that the problem had to do with moisture preventing the furnace from igniting. I took a hair dryer and blew warm air up into the Truma exhaust vent to dry out any accumulated moisture and that fixed the problem. If anyone has a detailed description of the E 5 H error please post it here as I could not find a description online or in my documentation.

It sounds like a possible mis-wiring during the replacement procedure and also an incorrect interpretation of the meter reading. Could it be possible that the replacement battery was wired in series (rather than in parallel with the other batteries) by mistake and the meter reading was 24.1 volts rather that 241.0 as stated?

Hi John, yes I believe this is what Oliver recommends. Unfortunately I couldn’t find it locally and was leaving on a trip so I ended up using ext/int Gorilla double sided tape. We traveled from CT to PA to VA to SC and back and encountered rain, sleet, and heat along the way with no problems. This may not be the best solution but I don’t believe that the antenna will detach again.

No, it appears to be yellowish. I haven’t tried to remove it as yet, maybe it’s adhesive tape?

My cellular antenna has become unattached from the roof, holding on only by the attached cable. It appears that it was attached by some sort of adhesive only. Does anyone know what type of adhesive I should use to reattach it? Would exterior double sided tape work? What does the factory use?

For better or worse Oliver’s reputation will be measured somewhat by that of their associated appointed sales / service centers. Hopefully things will improve in the RV industry but currently there is a lot of distrust in this market, Oliver being the exception. Oliver provides a very unique purchasing, support, and quality experience which is what brought most of us to Oliver over the rest of the manufacturers. Oliver is growing as a result which is fantastic and things will have to change as a result understandably. Hopefully they’ll find a way to maintain a bit of that exceptional user experience.

I had the same issues and decided to purchase a new indoor antenna from SureCall thinking that surely the coax had been compromised from the extreme bend. Unfortunately that did not help. Being that the phone needs to be in such close proximity to the antenna to gain any improvement maybe the indoor antenna can be relocated to a place more easily accessible to the phone like closer to the table top or night stand.

My experience has been that the improvement of signal quality / strength has been minimal with the cell booster and any improvement dissipated quickly as the phone was moved away from the indoor antenna; I only saw improvement of signal strength when the phone was within a few inches of the indoor antenna. In testing I saw a difference of 11 db, 1 bar or so when using the booster and that required the phone to be within a few inches of the antenna. Maybe a better external antenna would help but still the signal radiated from the indoor antenna had very little effective range within the trailer. In my opinion it might help to sustain or place a call but barely.

Looking at the thermostat temperature data during the over-night period after stabilization when there is likely very little activity i.e., door/window opening, movement etc., the control looks pretty good. It looks like single-cycle variance of the thermostatic control algorithm is approximately 2 degrees with a cycle period of approximately 30 minutes per cycle consistently throughout the over-night; pretty good. The average temperature over the entire over-night control period is very consistent with negligible wanderation suggesting good control. I doubt that my house control is that good. It’s hard to say what factors influenced the data prior to and after the over-night periods, possibly activities within the trailer; hard to say. I’m not sure what would cause the temperatures to be what they are inside the equipment bays, it might be interesting to see what the skin temperature of the furnace itself is as it may be radiating heat towards the water pump area.

Same story, the waste hose shredded on a cold day last January returning from Oliver. Luckily the Oliver supplied waste hose came in two section and we could utilize the second section. We then replaced the hose with a Rhino and that's been working fine. We have a composting toilet and are very happy with that decision.