Tom and Doreen

You will appreciate the "memory" feature whereby they remember their last state, dim level, night light, on/off, etc.. With the original touch lights I would have to turn off all of the ones that I didn't want on whenever I turned the master power switch on when arriving at a campground. The new lights remember their previous setting.

I feel your pain! We headed down a dirt road to visit Toadstool Geological Park NE a day after a rain ( without the trailer luckily ). The mud was sticky and slick all at the same time, completely filled the wheel wells and turned the tires into slicks. We paddled in 4WD for miles. Later the slurry dried nearly to concrete consistency! Weeks later I was still washing bits and pieces of the stuff out from under the truck!

I've had this problem (twice) and I believe that it comes down to a mechanical tolerance and materials problem with the deadbolt mechanism. In their design they purposely overdrive the deadbolt motor ( since they don't have a sensor to determine the position of the deadbolt). When the deadbolt reaches the end of it's travel, motor torque increases and overcomes the friction material in the clutch mechanism allowing the clutch to rotate despite the fact that the deadbolt has reached the end of it's travel. This allows the motor to continue to spin, preventing it from drawing excessive current and shortening its life. I've forgotten their name for the clutch but it's a little barrel that contains a friction material that allows the motor to drive the deadbolt until excessive force (when the deadbolt reaches the end of it's travel) overcomes the friction material causing the clutch to spin freely thereby decoupling the motor from the deadbolt. The problem occurs when the materials in the deadbolt mechanism bind or stick, overcoming the friction material in the clutch, resulting in the deadbolt not completing it's travel within the time that the motor is commanded to operate as determined by the electronics. The symptom is that the motor sounds normal, a confirmation beep is heard signaling end of travel of the deadbolt, but the door either doesn't lock or in my case did not unlock. In short, by design the motor is commanded to run longer than the time that it normally takes for the deadbolt to complete a full travel and relies on the clutch to decouple it's mechanical connection to the deadbolt when the deadbolt reaches the end of it's travel. By doing so they eliminate deadbolt position sensors and save cost. It's clever providing it works reliably. Anything within the transport that adds friction or causes binding can cause a problem. Another issue can be a weak clutch. The company is very good about supplying parts but leaves the repairs up to the customer which usually involves sending videos, sometimes removing the lock and operating the lock by itself while making another video, then waiting for parts which in some cases does not fix the problem and the cycle repeats. I like the lock, it's very convenient, but I aways have my key in my pocket which somewhat defeats the purpose.

Welcome to the community!! You'll find a wealth of knowledge here on the forum. There is an Oliver National Rally this fall, details of which can be found here. The demographics do tend to show a greater number of older folks most likely due to the fact that these trailers are fairly pricy and that they are favored as a "couples trailer", not so much for families. Lately I think that's changing a bit though with younger folks buying in.

....And springs!!

Hmmm.....I wonder if his trailer was bought from a dealer or he possibly bought it from a private owner.

Is there power to the unit? Does your water pump switch / indicator work? I would check everywhere a service person may have worked to see if there are any pinched, broken, or unplugged wires. Are any other devices not working, check fuses, etc..

John, what an absolutely amazing job! It 'looks like' an Oliver but it's so much more now than that you've made improvements to all aspect of the trailer. I don't know if you follow the YouTube channel Dave's Auto Center but you could be the "Dave" of the Oliver world!

Could get a little exciting with an Airstream! On the plus side an Airstream probably would make a pretty good Faraday cage!

On the 2023 Elite there's also a breaker (60A) for the +12V systems, it's probably a Optifuse like in the Elite 2s. I don't know where it would be located on an Elite but probably under a seat or bunk. The load side of this breaker connects to the fuse panel. The input side is connected to the +12V bus bar.

Looks great John!

It could just be that one of the brakes is out of adjustment. The drum brakes are 'self adjusting' but it's not always a perfect system. There could also be built up debris, brake dust, etc. that is interfering with the brake shoe or components. I think it's a good sign that the brakes don't squeak in the forward direction. Because the shoes wear-in mostly when applied when moving forward they are less likely to squeak when rotated in that direction. Because your trailer is used, do you have any data as to when your brakes were last inspected and what may have been found at that time in terms of the amount of wear? Your trailer is newer than mine so I suspect that your brake shoes still have a good service life left on them.

It's good that you got that taken care of. New or used the factory springs on these trailers are a significant worry. We have a 2023 trailer and one of our springs snapped on our last trip.

John, the 2-5/16 sounds like a safe bet. I doubt you'll have to worry after that.

It's a lesson to all of us to always have a spare set of shorts handy for occasions like this. 😜