Need advice - winterize now or wait?

[Brian H.]

Hello all,

I need some advice. I live in Virginia and have a 2025 legacy elite 2 with the platinum lithium battery package Hull # 1633. I store the camper in an asphalt storage lot 1 mile from my house. I have a camping trip planned for the week of Thanksgiving. I plan on winterizing after the trip, but the week leading up to the trip the daytime highs are forecast to be 50-60 F with nighttime lows dipping to 30-32 F. Which of the following would be my best choice.

1.)   Do nothing. With the daytime temps in the mid 50’s to 60’s and only dipping to freezing at night. Is there much chance of any damage happening.

2.)   Turn on the inverter and run a small space heater on low over night in the camper.

3.)   Run the propane furnace set to 50 degrees at night. (seem scary to run the propane furnace when I am not there).

4.)   Winterize the camper for one week, dewinterize for the trip and winterize again after the trip. (seems like a lot of work).

 

Let me know what you think. Thanks in advance.

 

Brian

[Todd B]

I have done 3. Figure it runs over night when I basically I am not there (since I am sound asleep). I have also left it running when I am camping but away for the day and it is going to get chilly before I get back. 

Not saying my actions are right or wrong. Your mileage may vary. 

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Brian H. said:

1.)   Do nothing. With the daytime temps in the mid 50’s to 60’s and only dipping to freezing at night. Is there much chance of any damage happening.
2.)   Turn on the inverter and run a small space heater on low over night in the camper.
3.)   Run the propane furnace set to 50 degrees at night. (seem scary to run the propane furnace when I am not there).
4.)   Winterize the camper for one week, dewinterize for the trip and winterize again after the trip. (seems like a lot of work).

My vote is #1 and if it gets colder then I agree with Todd on #3. #2 is unsafe and ineffective, and yes #4 is too much work. "Lows (only) dipping to 30-32 F" then your option #1 will be all you need.

I've left ours alone, plumbing full of water for several nights with lows into the high 20s, given it warms up during the daytimes. When I see consecutive overnight forecasted lows in the low 20s or teens, then I'll run the furnace (#3) or if we're staying home for much longer, then I'd "winterize."

But for us, winterize means to blow the water lines out with compressed air. Though not recommended by OTT, I have a thread on this procedure. We don't use the pink stuff. I learned this from a Bigfoot owner who lives in the real COLD of Calgary AB. It works well.

Your Thanksgiving situation is like ours all winter long. We're home this week, then camping next week. Then home 'til Christmas and we'll leave again, repeat pattern until the spring. We have a moderate climate. It can be middle of winter and truly cold, but more often lows are 28F with highs at 55F and no true need to winterize. If we did the standard antifreeze process, I'd have to do it 3-4 times a winter and I'm not doing that, since as you wrote, "seems like a lot of work."

I believe #2 a portable space heater is your worst option. Many Oliver Owners run these heaters but besides the safety concerns (most winter fires in city apartments are caused by space heaters) they just don't work unless you place them in the rear basement where the main water lines lay. A space heater in the cabin will heat the upper shell, not the lower, so water can still freeze in the basement. There are threads here where water lines have frozen while using space heaters above! Use the furnace as it's designed to keep the basement above freezing!

The only downside of option #3 is if it gets real COLD the LP does not last too long, but your need is short term. Have a great Thanksgiving trip! JD

Edited 4 hours ago by jd1923

[FloraFauna]

My advice would be 3.  Keep in mind, forecasts are often wrong and it could go colder than expected.  And I agree with @jd1923 that 2 is the worst option for several reasons, the main one being nonuniform heating where a cold spot could cause a plumbing freeze.

Edited 3 hours ago by FloraFauna
Clarification

[Steph and Dud B]

I would choose #3 as long as there's nothing right up against the furnace exhaust. No guarantee the forecast is right. Miscalculated once with a different trailer and ended up replacing a split fitting on my water heater.

[John Dorrer]

I have foam insulation around the outside shower knobs. I have Reflectix that fits outside the outside shower and covering the the floor and entrance to the basement. Two layers on the basement floor at the entrance.

 

Pipe insulation caps for the 4 exterior connections. Soft foam in the ends and  tape. 3/4" pipe insulation, cut and a piece added to allow a snug fit on the connector.

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said:

No guarantee the forecast is right.

BTW, with option #3 make sure the LP tank valve is open and get the furnace to fire up, test it while you're there. Then turn the thermostat down. You'll have option #1 to start, then #3 when it gets cold enough.

I also have several Ruuvi sensors, so we know cabin temp, fridge, freezer, etc. I have one in the rear basement underneath the water lines which is often the coldest area. I've found if we set the cabin thermostat to 50F the lower rear basement will stay above 34F.