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John E Davies

How to: Jack bubble level adjustment and indexing

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This is something you can do in a few minutes. Level the trailer using a good carpenters level placed on the floor. Level front to back and also sideways, until it is dead level in all directions.

 

Using the three Philips screws on the bubble level, adjust until the bubble is right in the center of the smallest circle.

 

Using a silver Sharpie or similar permanent marker, place an index line on the level housing and also on the adjacent motor cover. The reason for this is that the level can go on three different ways, and only one way will be correct:

 

IMG_2048.thumb.jpg.e63c0d28b264dfbdf974a62cd4d797c4.jpg

 

Rotated 120 degrees:

 

IMG_2049.thumb.jpg.58c8ef4c5f39ab01124099d3cd0891f2.jpg

 

Rotated 240 degrees:

 

IMG_2050.thumb.jpg.3837638a737f27260479ac1ea7505b17.jpg

 

Back to where it outta be:

 

IMG_2047.thumb.jpg.86be6b383ae345c655e691034a6c892c.jpg

 

I wonder why they didn't just make the slots asymmetrical so this couldn't happen...?

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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That whole top piece with the four tabs that contains the "level" is not stable enough to rely on.  It can be turned and knocked off level too easily to rely on.  I wanted to use it from day one, but gave up on it.  After I get the trailer level, I adjust the jack level to match, and the next time it's way off.

 

Also, you may find that the floor is not the surface you really want to use for the level reference.  Water tank level, bed level and counter top level are also reference points that can prove to be worth looking at and probably more important than the floor.  Once you find the best average for your use, you might find a spot that matches that the best for a leveling reference.  Or at least you can lock-in your reference level to match it.  Since I can't use the jack level, I have a couple of spots that I use for my standard.


John


"I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt."


LE2 #92 (sold),   Black Series HQ19   

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That whole top piece with the four tabs that contains the “level” is not stable enough to rely on. It can be turned and knocked off level too easily to rely on. I wanted to use it from day one, but gave up on it. After I get the trailer level, I adjust the jack level to match, and the next time it’s way off. Also, you may find that the floor is not the surface you really want to use for the level reference. Water tank level, bed level and counter top level are also reference points that can prove to be worth looking at and probably more important than the floor. Once you find the best average for your use, you might find a spot that matches that the best for a leveling reference. Or at least you can lock-in your reference level to match it. Since I can’t use the jack level, I have a couple of spots that I use for my standard.

 

The whole head of the jack moves around on mine only being held on by 2 screws on opposite sides, making it undependable. The fridge needs to be level, I just used the Outter hulls seam to level with, then put RV levels inside and out. The seam worked really well as my main leveling point but it will differ from front to back and side to side if you're using the jacks to level with. For the one time base leveling, you need to use blocks under the tires first, not the stabilizers and do it on as level of ground as you can find :)

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Happy Camping,


null


Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle


2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4


Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel


Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II


 

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Good idea, John.  I use the jack bubble for a quick estimation of level when setting up.  Final leveling is done with a 12" level at various spots, inside and out.  After final leveling I readjust the bubble level.  Mike


Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

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In backing into a space I get the camper close to where I want it, but, since I'm still attached to the TV, in most cases,  it is impossible to use the jack bubble level for anything.  So, right after I brought Twist home I got it as leveled as possible and then attached a couple of Camco levels to the exterior near the belly line - one on the front and two on either side by the front door and near the bath window.  Now when I get close I simply look at the bubble level on the front of the camper and estimate how much I will need to raise (or lower) that side in order to get the side to side issue close.  Using the Andersen levelers makes this process a bit easier as compared to using the lego stacking blocks or scraps of wood.  Once the side to side is taken care of and I disconnect from the TV I use the Jack level to get close but final adjustments are made by looking at the bubble level that I stuck to either side of Twist.  If I'm stopping somewhere just for the night and not disconnecting from the truck, I again use the level on the front of the camper for the side to side issue and if the camper is nose down I use the jack and its level to get close as long as I don't need to raise the nose too far - I don't want to raise both the camper and the rear of the truck too far.  These little levels only cost a couple of bucks and once they are stuck they don't seem to move.  I would have purchased a larger level fro the front similar to what Reed and Karen have done, but, I've not been able to find one that I like the looks of yet.

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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I just use my iPhone level.  First side to side while hitched up, then front to rear after unhitching.  Worked with the Ollie, and with the Airstream.  Wife is behind the wheel while we use the Andersen leveler for side to side.

 

another way to level the Ollie side to side was with the swing of the bathroom door.  I added some electric jack switches to the interior (ScubaRx) idea  and just used the jacks to move us around.  It worked.


Current 2007 Airstream Classic Limited 31


2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II (Sold)


2016 Ram 2500 HD 6.7i Cummins turbo diesel


 

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So THAT is what those switches do?


Mike and Elizabeth Smith


Snow Lake Shores, MS


2016 Ford F150 3.5 EB, max tow (20,900  miles pulling Ollie since Sept 2016)


 


 

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LOL.  Yes Mike, the switches on the wall of the street side bunk control the jacks from inside.  Thank Steve L. For that.  Comes in handy when the weather is bad.


Current 2007 Airstream Classic Limited 31


2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II (Sold)


2016 Ram 2500 HD 6.7i Cummins turbo diesel


 

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I was searching the forum for guidance on the bubble level and noted that my level does have an arrow on it that you align with the indicated 'Lock Position' decal, so ne need to mark a reference point on it.

 

Thanks

 

Geoff Howe

 

'17 Legacy Elite II - #260 / '14 JGC Summit Diesel



Geoff Howe

'17 Legacy Elite II #260 / '14 JGC Summit Diesel


 

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Geoff - Be a bit careful with this.  Assuming that you are talking about the bubble level that is on the top of the front jack - these levels are spring loaded and are prone to being not terribly accurate.  They get bumped and do not necessarily reset in the same position that they started with.  Yes, you can use them to get close or "ballpark" level, but if you are particular then you will either need to use a regular level (two or three foot is good) or by making sure the camper is level once, place a couple of the "stick on" type levels where they are convenient to you and you will never have to go looking for a level again.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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