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bradbev

Trailer Height - Elite II

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I'm getting quotes for a trailer garage to house our Elite II.  I'm planning a 24 x 30 metal building and hope to get 2 each 16 foot wide garage doors, one on each end so we can drive through, no backing.

 

The specs indicate a height of 9' 7" as I recall.  I've tried to measure the actual height of our trailer, but find it pretty inaccurate with our unlevel gravel driveway.  Standard garage door heights seem to be either 10 foot or 12 foot, and I'm afraid the 10 foot might be too tight, and there's the possibility of our trailer sitting a little high.  So, I'm thinking I better spring for the 12 foot which will increase the height and cost of the building.

 

Has anyone measured your Elite IIs, and if so, what height did you come up with?

 

Brad

 

 

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10' is what I go by for any roadway signage, when I checked mine it was just about 9½'. Myself I would go with the 10'opening, I said opening and not just door cause it needs to completely open. If it's a little too close you can always just adjust your air pressure a little, to go in and out.

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Randy


One Life Live It Enjoyably


2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB


2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69

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Bradbev - give Anita or Brent a call at the Sales office and ask them to measure the doors there.  Even with the slight angle from outside to inside these doors (obviously) do the trick.

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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About 9'6" height for ours, it depends entirely on the height of the AC shroud (Mouse has an Atwood Air Command 9500.

 

I would not build with less than 12 feet clearance. 14' is a little better for resale value, since any RV will fit. Our attached 16 x 43 foot bay has a 12 W x 14 T commercial (insulated) door.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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<p style="text-align: left;">Unless it's a commercial roll up door with the roll on the outside, like Randy said, you have to be aware of interior obstacles.</p>

I don't think you would want that roll-up on the front of your house. Ours is on a side entry, invisible to the neighbors.

 

The motor and rails of the garage door and opener of a standard door will severely reduce your clearance, in most cases.

 

Sherry


2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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A roll up requires about 2 ft, max, of ceiling clearance for the door and rails.

 

A commercial side mounted opener does not add any obstruction in the middle. You can’t use a cheap residential opener on a very tall door. This is similar to mine.

 

F8DC8CC9-F9DE-44E2-9A77-FCF2C5510358.thumb.jpeg.dc71f0d0022473f39ddf38ea2a5979f8.jpeg

 

 

 

I can snap some pics of the rails and opener if anyone wants to see them. Here’s the outside. The outside of the bay is set back from the garage, the main approach to the house is from the left, and with the high roofline of the main structure the bay is almost completely hidden from view until you get near the front. This is a 14’ tall door.

 

36798917-AE22-4151-8F17-262411CF5789.thumb.jpeg.7adb8ef2109598114a508f141b570c01.jpeg

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Another thought.... two doors are convenient but the second door doubles the cost and it destroys the ability to use that wall for storage. If you have abundant storage elsewhere it is a non-issue,  but I needed to be able to use the far end of the bay for shop/ power equipment and shelving.

 

Plus two big doors will always be way more be drafty in windy conditions - even the best doors leak a little air around the seals. If you plan to heat it, one door is preferred. My bay is well insulated, and if I keep it closed up I can heat the inside to 50 degrees F with an outside average of 30 degrees using a 1500 watt electric space heater! .... However it does take two days to warm up;)

 

A single tall high end door with opener would be better than two cheaper ones, IMHO. As long as your approach for backing is OK. With a backup camera on the trailer reversing is fairly painless.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Mark, I love the pic. Does your dog often sit with his butt in a snowbank?

 

John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Love the dog in the weeds photo - hate the floor too high thing.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Thanks for the comments everyone.  We're getting a quote for a 30 length, 24 wide with 16 W X 12 H doors on each end of  the building (drive through).  Measurements on the height of my trailer showed I'd really be stretching my luck with a 10 high.  This size will allow me to store the trailer, truck should I want, and still have some room along the sides for storage.

 

Now comes the difficult issue, paying for it.  Waiting for the quote, but the slope and water shed issues will mean some major earth work, plus there's real world construction cost, and then there's Santa Fe costs. :)  Someone spread the word there were rich movie stars all over town.  Ain't rich, and certainly no movie star!!!

 

Brad  (and the last name's not Pitt)

 

 

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