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John E Davies

HOW TO: Aircraft tiedowns for the storage tray.

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I added four small sections of track and adjustable tie down rings. These came from Mac’s Custom Tie Downs, and the tracks were scraps I already had. You can buy track for about $8 per linear foot. .... http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com

 

I used stainless countersunk Allen screws, 5/16 x 1”. The hardest part was countersinking the inside of the tray, it required a 5/8” 82 degree countersink.

 

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There is an Easter Egg in the last pic, do you know what it is for?

 

I like this setup a lot more than just hooking the straps to random parts of the expanded aluminum sides. It looks professional and it is really strong. The rings are rated for a 1000 pound working load, like a motorcycle.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

 


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Looks great. Thanks.

Still on the Easter egg hunt... Is it the bubble level on the gas tank?

Sherry

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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I just drilled 1/2 holes evenly spaced on the top rail/both sides of the basket. I then used a counter sink on both the inside and outside of each hole. Standard ratchet tie down hooks fit nicely with no extra hardware needed. I carry a 2000 watt Honda generator and a 5 gallon Septer fuel container. Both tightly tied down and locked in with a cable/lock arrangement. I also have 14 large stainless steel snaps evenly spaced all around the base for holding a custom fit truckers vinyl cover in place.

 

 

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Still on the Easter egg hunt… Is it the bubble level on the gas tank?

 

Sherry

 

Yep. When I disconnect the coupler, I rotate the magnetic bubble to horizontal. Then I lower the tongue as needed to level the trailer.

 

When I reconnect, I extend the jack until the little bubble is in the middle, showing me that I have the tongue high enough to drive under. It saves having to stop and raise it up higher, and helps me to not ram into the coupler with the ball. Or raising it too high.

 

It’s definitely worth the $2 I paid for it....

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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I just drilled 1/2 holes evenly spaced on the top rail/both sides of the basket. I then used a counter sink on both the inside and outside of each hole. Standard ratchet tie down hooks fit nicely with no extra hardware needed. I carry a 2000 watt Honda generator and a 5 gallon Septer fuel container. Both tightly tied down and locked in with a cable/lock arrangement. I also have 14 large stainless steel snaps evenly spaced all around the base for holding a custom fit truckers vinyl cover in place.

 

Pretty and very elegant ... that is a lot of countersinking. Is there a reason you did not drill the front or back? Did you wear out your bit? ;)

 

One reason I wanted rings on the outside of the rim is to avoid any possible interference between the hooks and the cargo. My cans hit hard on the inside and there is no room for protruding hooks there.

 

Can you post a full picture of your cover, and describe how you made it? Or what it cost to have made? What material?

 

Thanks.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Didn’t need them on the front or back just the two ends. No not dulled, I don’t have any cheap drills! I took the loaded basket to a large local lake area. There I found a guy who makes boat covers and such. He digitized the whole assembly and made the cover from heavyweight truckers tarp material. Any decent boat cover or convertible top maker can do this and will have the good material. I bought the large stainless snaps from McMaster-Carr. These included either an attached #8 or #10 (can’t remember right now) stainless stud. 14 evenly spaced all around so the cover wouldn’t flap or remove itself along an interstate. Also, more effort for the curious/thief to peek under.

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Where did you purchase the metal carrier/basket?  I see a basket with solid metal sides in the Oliver add on section.


Bob G

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Where did you purchase the metal carrier/basket? I see a basket with solid metal sides in the Oliver add on section.

It’s the original design. They eliminated the expanded mesh on the current version, probably because they are easier and faster to build without it. I am guessing.... I don’t know the hull number where they switched over. “Mouse” is 218.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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