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mountainoliver

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Everything posted by mountainoliver

  1. The facility that I contacted is over 400 miles from my home. I first contacted the Dexter representative that had been at one of the Oliver rallies, he suggested that I call this particular distribution facility as it would be closest to me and just talk to the sales department. I know of another owner who called this facility after I did and also ordered the same parts for the same costs. I would call your closest distributor and get a price quote. Maybe the difference was me ordering four sets of everything. I tried to pm you and a note came up that you weren’t receiving pm’s. If we can get that fixed, when we get home from our trip I’ll send all the information that I have.
  2. John, I rebuilt my axles this past November and purchased all of the parts from Textrail. The facility that I happened to order from is in Cookeville Tennessee. Complete hub/drum assemblies including bearings were something like 45 +/-dollars each. Complete brake assemblies ready to mount were about the same 45 +/- dollars each for the self adjusting type. The manual adjustment type is less. My complete rebuild of four complete brake assemblies, four complete drum/hub/bearing/seals assemblies including shipping to my door was around $500. Hope this helps Side note: These parts were all genuine Dexter not an off brand.
  3. Ok, but the chart looks like they are showing the furnace fan only and the amps listed are at 120 VAC. Our camper furnaces run on DC/propane only. I may just test the furnace load while running.
  4. For general information, both the Suburban NT-20SEQ furnace and Suburban SW6DE water heater as installed in the 2017 (hull 208) Oliver LEII (information taken from my Oliver supplied as built sheet) are rated for 10.5 - 13.5 VDC. The Dinosaur replacement control board that I now have on my water heater is rated for 10 - 19 VDC. The Blue Sky solar controller is programmed for maximum voltage of 14.6, acceptance charge of 14.4, and float charge of 13.6 VDC. These settings are per the Battle Born folks. From the above information and the fact that the Progressive Dynamics PD4045 charger also produces 14.6 VDC, we should install a voltage regulator on each appliance. Unless the original control boards have been replaced with Dinosaur control boards! Also I no longer have the Dometic fridge so don’t know/don’t care what it’s voltage specs were! Anyone happen to know what the DC amperage draw is for the Suburban furnace while running?
  5. Mountainman198, the wheels are lug-centric. There is a bunch of clearance (probably 1/2 inch at least) between the wheel ID and the hub OD and, the lug nuts are matching tapers with the wheels.
  6. Hull number 208, 2017. Wheels were not balanced but I requested that they be balanced during my pickup inspection. I guess technically they were balanced when the trailer actually left the factory!
  7. John, I do carry a spare. Mike’s install is a little different than mine or probably yours. The older Oliver trailers didn’t have a separate breaker panel in the attic so we just tested the wire bundle (all black) coming out of the power distribution center until we found the one feeding the fans. Both fans are fed by one source. My trailer has the breaker panel in the attic with one marked blower (marine breaker assembly). I attached the regulator to that breaker and it was hidden behind the side panel. I purchased the regulator from Amazon (look up DC voltage regulator) and the manufacturer is Drok but there are others as well. You see these everywhere like on riding lawnmowers and golf carts. Just make sure you find one rated sufficiently for the intended load.
  8. That looks great! Are the two aluminum bars that mount the frame solid 2x2?
  9. When I changed out my lead acid batteries with three Battle Born batteries a few months ago, I added a voltage regulator (shown below) to the Maxxfan and bath fan circuit for that very reason. The Maxxfan control board is not known for over voltage reliability. But I have not had any trouble with the other control boards. Actually the only one that is stock is the furnace board. I replaced the water heater board with a Dinosaur board a couple years ago and the compressor fridge can handle 12-24 volts DC or 110-220volts (50-60 HZ) AC. I think that relatively inexpensive voltage regulators are available that could handle the furnace and would be much less expensive than a new control board, but not sure?
  10. This would be an ideal use of a panel mounted fuse holder (probably under the rear dinette seat) visible from the trailer cabin. In particular a fuse holder that lights up when the fuse is blown. Periodic testing would be more important with a fuse installed in the emergency brake power wire.
  11. Before we found Oliver, we drove to Elkhart and toured every manufacturer. We were in Elkhart for a full week and walked away with a large box of brochures. We attended several large RV shows in Ohio, Indiana, and Pennsylvania. I toured the Airstream factory in Jackson Center on three occasions. In all this I didn’t see the quality that I was looking for. Being a mechanical design engineer (form follows function) I saw a lot of both design mistakes (personal opinion) and assembly mistakes. The very first time I saw an Oliver I knew that I had found what I was looking for! When we took the plant tour we were even more positive and placed our order that day! Now going on four years of ownership the problems seen are the same as with every other camper manufactured. Oliver is bound by the available appliances which as noted before are not the best quality. Within reason there is no other choice in appliances. Also, for what it’s worth (a lot by the way) Oliver service, overall experience is second to none, period!
  12. John, I did basically the same thing you’re thinking a couple of years ago. I took two low amperage 12 volt computer fans and mounted them to the inside of the furnace return grill. Now that I have removed the problematic propane fridge, I use the fridge fan switch by the entry door to operate these fans. I don’t use a thermostat but just turn them on and let them run. They are able to take the conditioned cabin air and force it into the basement. Not a lot of flow but I can feel a slight bit leaking thru the converter grill under the dinette. A higher capacity fan(s) would be great but I would be careful not to have so much that you run the risk of activating the furnace sail switch.
  13. Seeing the shower head changes reminded me that when I ordered our trailer I wasn’t real fond of the shower arrangement so had Oliver make a modification for me. I liked the idea of being able to select the shower head that I wanted and be able to replace it whenever. I used Shurflo brand “Trinidad” model shower diverter valve. Both bath/kitchen faucets are the same design for fewer parts inventory and are the Shurflo “Trinidad” type as well.
  14. If nothing else, all of the battery photos show that in a mobile application such as in our campers there is almost constant movement between the batteries and the tray. For this reason I don’t think using solid buss bars between batteries is a good thing. I would think that there would be battery lug or internal damage caused. I bring this up because there have been posts about lithium changeover projects lately and this post highlights the need of being somewhat flexible with battery inter connections.
  15. The “older” trailers did use the Blue Sky solar controller. While probably not the best by today’s standards, the Blue Sky is an MPPT type unit. I ordered my trailer without the solar option because I didn’t know enough about solar at the time and the Zamp equipment was just beginning to be used. In later discussions with ScubaRx I found out that the Blue Sky equipment was probably the best at the time so he and I installed that brand. It is fully and easily programmed for any battery chemistry. Fast forward, last summer I installed three Battle Born batteries and did some wiring changes as well. The Blue Sky controller brings the batteries to 100% each day and the lithium speced shore power charger brings them to 100% very quickly. Also as a side, I plugged the battery box door vents and insulated the door with 1/2 inch thick closed cell neoprene foam. So far camping in freezing weather, the battery box has stayed comfortably warm without battery heaters.
  16. We have the Anderson wedges and love them. 0-4 inch lift for side to side leveling. No need to cut them to fit between the tires (at least on the 2017 model).
  17. I put together this tester at the suggestion of another Oliver owner and keep it handy in my truck door pocket. The voltage display was ordered from Amazon and is advertised as a night light as well. This combination tests the pedestal for not only the typical wiring problems but also for over/under voltage issues. It does not however check for incorrect cycles (above or below 60). I do this very quick test before plugging in. After that the installed surge protector shows and filters out typical voltage, wiring and incorrect cycles issues.
  18. RB, I’ve never heard of them. I changed out mine about two months ago and made several wiring changes in the process. I went with three Battle Born 100 AH batteries. I’ve been very happy with this setup so far.
  19. Great! I’m glad that you were able to get the parts you needed.
  20. A couple of years ago I went through the same issues. Dometic had a difficult time finding the correct boards and Dinosaur didn’t have the eyebrow board. I got their main board but it wouldn’t communicate with the Dometic eyebrow board.
  21. Check the junction box located just below the transfer switch. I and others have had loose connections in this area. There are solid wires and stranded wires connected together with wire nuts in this box. This is a difficult type of connection and it is possible that a loose connection in this box could cause the issues that you may be experiencing. Please make sure that your trailer is not connected to shore power and be sure that the inverter is off as well before removing the junction box cover.
  22. My 2017 hull number 208 has the same issue. It’s around the rear window in two places and on the driver’s side rear most window in one small area. I first noticed this maybe a year after I had Oliver take all of the windows out and reseal them with a “new” method that they were starting to use. I am assuming that they used a black sealing putty that comes in a roll and so the color is bleeding through the white silicone that was smeared all around the window frames outside and (unfortunately) well onto the fiberglass. As an aside, does anyone have a good way to cleanly remove some of the white silicone that is smeared on the fiberglass?
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