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geO

Fist time resealing my Oliver

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I've never resealed my Oliver after 1 1/2 years and will need to get this done. I asked Jason what the plant uses and he informed me they use ASI 335. I got it on order now along with a good quality caulk gun. I plan on tackling this task ASAP. I bought some Acetone for prep work along with the plastic razor blades.

 

When up top do I need to remove the vents and screws and clean under the flanges or do I clean up as much old sealant and reapply the new sealant? This is all new for me and any tips would be greatly appreciated . I also wonder if the screws used up top are stainless steel or galvanized.

 

 

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Geo, my elite2 is about the same age as yours, I would advise just checking the caulking around your vent, maxair fan etc... mine is still in good shape even after being outside since I took delivery on 5/1/17. If there are no gaps  there is no need to replace it.

 

Steve

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STEVEnBETTY

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George - while you're looking around, don't forget to take a close look at your "marker" lights on both the top and bottom of the hull.  Like Steve, I've never had to do much on the roof, but, several of those lights on mine have needed a bit of re-sealing.

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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geO,

 

This is interesting.  On my 2015, all the windows, maxxair vent, bathroom fan, plumbing vent, and all the other penetrations were factory sealed with 3M Fast Cure 4000 UV. Oliver uses this all over the trailer inside and out. The porch lights and the markers were factory sealed with silicone. Many of those sealed with the silicone have failed. I would not use silicone over the 3M 4000. I had a few gaps here and there in the window trim that I redid. And I also cleaned up some "less than adequate" joints on the interior, especially in the bathroom and around the kitchen sink. The only issue with the 3M 4000, other than it's cost, is that once opened, it has a very short shelf life. So get all your spots lined up and do the inside and outside all at once. Cut the tip on your tube sparingly! Clean your rig well to remove any dirt and wax. Give a quick pre-wipe with acetone or MEK (my preference) on a rag around where the joint is. On the inside, I then tape both sides of the joint with thin blue tape (delicate surfaces). Carefully squeeze a fine bead in the joint and smooth out with your finger. Immediately pull the tape and lightly swipe again to get the ridges from the tape to blend in. You may not like to, but I wipe a little paint thinner on my finger to lubricate it a bit, works good. Too much sealant in the joint and you'll have a mess. Use the sealant sparingly. The first wipe should be tight to the tape edge, not going over the top. It's a judgement call depending on the size of the fill. The 3M 4000 can clean up with paint thinner so if there is some that gets away from you, you can carefully clean up with that. The stuff skins over pretty fast so be organized, work small areas, and don't forget to breathe! On the outside, I just very carefully apply the bead and smooth it out with my finger. If the sealant line gets messy, some thinner on a rag drawn along the edge of the sealant cleans it up nicely. Warning though: don't use thinner or any other solvent around your chromed plastic light fixtures, it will mess up the finish! I don't know why Oliver recommended silicone to you when most of what you'll be sealing was done with the 3M product.  Good luck!

 

RE: the marker lights, I would like to hear how others have sealed those as I think I have a few leakers, and yes they were factory sealed with silicone! Can the chromed escutcheon ring be removed somehow for sealing?

 

Dave

 

 

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2015 Oliver Elite, Hull 107


1998 Ford E-250, 5.4 liter

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Thank you folks for the info. I got up on the roof and looked around and the vents/fans are looking a little rough. The windows also need a freshening up. I was amazed at the level of sand and grime that was collected under the window seals from a 3 month trip.

 

Dave, I was wondering about the marker lights as well. I thought they might just pop off but I'm not sure.

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Dave & George -

 

As I see it, the "problem" with the marker lights is that they are placed on a curved surface while not being curved themselves.  This tends to cause one side of the light to "lift" from the surface thus resulting in the caulk to either crack or totally separate from either the light or the trailer.  I've not removed any of mine from the camper but have simply cleaned the area (usually with mineral spirits and/or alcohol), removed any loose caulk and re-caulked. Hope this helps.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Still waiting on the rain to stop here in Alabama and hopefully this weekend I'll be able to seal her up. Been having to swap out towels every few hours from the leak from the back window, man this rain has been brutal.

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Can somebody explain to me how to seal the upper marker lights? Do those silver rings come off? If so, how?

 

Thank you!

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George -

 

I've done the same thing that I mentioned above with both the upper and lower marker lights.  Clean them and the surrounding area well with mineral spirits and/or alcohol and then re-caulk without removing them.  Of course I'm sure to try to "force" as much caulk as I can into the area that is cracked and/or separating and then carefully wipe both the light and the "silver" ring while not removing the caulk from the area I just sealed.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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George –

 

I’ve done the same thing that I mentioned above with both the upper and lower marker lights. Clean them and the surrounding area well with mineral spirits and/or alcohol and then re-caulk without removing them. Of course I’m sure to try to “force” as much caulk as I can into the area that is cracked and/or separating and then carefully wipe both the light and the “silver” ring while not removing the caulk from the area I just sealed.

 

Bill

 

I got it now Bill. I did notice one of mine in the back is loose. I wonder if that could be the culprit allowing water between the shells and spilling on the inside of the window.

 

I've got everything now prepared for tomorrow. I thought I would prep first before caulking so the sealant does not dry up on me. Love those plastic scrapping tools my wife got me.

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Up on the Roof....

 

Spend the last few days up on the roof of #145 waxing and checking seals.   Found that the MaxxAir fan seals were cracked and worn.  Removed the old and applied new sealant.  I used Loctite PL Marine Adhesive Sealant.   It was a bit expensive..... about $9 for this small tube.  But went on very easy, dried quick and appears to be a tough, durable seal.  Pics attached.... Be careful up there.

 

Scotty

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Gregg & Donna Scott and Piper the Westie  -    The Flying Sea Turtle - Hull # 145     Western NC


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