STEVEnBETTY

I have hull #219, i can’t relate to the low flow in the toilet, but as Mossemi described in his post there was a flow restrictor “water saver” in the shower head.If I remember correctly it was a red piece that popped right out, that made a huge difference in mine

Coming from a background of over the road trucking (40 yrs) I’ve experienced several spring failures, to all the people upgrading to heavier rated springs just be aware your axle assembly is rated as a complete unit,if you change one thing you need to make sure the other components, spring perch, shackles, axle tube,wet bolts etc.. can handle the extra stress. It’s been my experience most spring breaks happen from a sharp impact ie: deep pothole, curbing the trl, etc.. and to the shop that has never had a spring failure I call b.s. Steve

Unfortunately I have had the right rear spring break last year, but with approximately 80,00 miles on said spring I’m not dissatisfied with its service life. You can get an replacement spring overnighted from etrailer, however I have had good experience with St. Louis spring. They will custom make whatever you want, in the past they fabricated two springs for a 52 year old boat trailer to my specs (1 one extra leaf,1 inch increased arch)& I was very happy with their service.

My wife & I are the proud original owners of hull #219, recently we experienced a suburban furnace failure., I removed the furnace & replaced the sail and limit switches & took the furnace to a local rv dealer “Colman country campers” in Hartford Il, to bench test the furnace. They had it 2 weeks! I never authorized repairs but they put in a “new” sail switch. I was charged 2 hours labor @ $120 an hour plus the switch, when I got the furnace back I disassembled it & discovered that not only did they put in the wrong switch but it was apparently used. There’s obviously more to the story, but this post is getting long, I just want people to be wary of shady rv dealers & I look forward to having a Oliver authorized repair facility near me. Steve

Don’t mean to disagree John, but the fiber granite top is granite looking material embedded into the gelcoat before “ laying in” the fiberglass, no Velcro involved. Steve

You have a leak, I would guess either the back flow fitting on the back side of the hose connection split, or the pex water line connected to it. That hose connection fills your fresh water tank, if you didn’t fill that line with antifreeze or blow the water out with air to winterize, it may have froze over the winter. Open the cargo door above it and remove the floor above the hose connection, you should be able to see where the pex water line connects to the back flow valve. Good luck Steve

Our Oliver is hull # 219 with a suburban furnace, but this may apply to yours. If we are plugged into shore (ac) power the furnace works fine, but when we are boondocking or just running off of the batteries, any voltage below 12.5 allows the blower motor to slow down enough, so that the “sail” or proof switch doesn’t engage and therefore the burner won’t ignite. The fix is to slightly bend the sail switch to lean more into the airflow of the blower allowing it to engage easier. I haven’t done it yet because with the suburban furnace you have to remove it to get to the switch, but with the Atwood it’s accessible from the outside.

There’s always “1” in a crowd Steve

I can confirm overlands comment on the tax deductibility of the factory installation of the solar package, battery upgrade and the inverter for the tax year 2017, didn’t try including the generator. On a side note, “my” theory on the change of battery suppliers is related to the failure rate of the Trojan agm batteries, mine included, I have since switched to Trojan t105’s ( wet cells).

I can attest personally, Bill is the original desperado, Waylon Jennings or willie has nothing on him!

The screws that hold the white cover on are self tapping, your options if they’re stripped out are, using a slightly larger self tapping screw, or drilling new holes, either option works just fine. As for as a cover for the ac I can’t help you, I had a bird nesting in mine recently, I find it just as easy removing the cover semi annually to clean, while i’m waxing, as opposed to getting a cover, you have to get up there either way. Steve

Muppy, I would guess you do have a leak in a water line, time to remove panels and investigate, the good news is pex plumbing is pretty easy to repair, depending on where your leak is, that and with an Oliver at least there’s no wood to rot when leaks do eventually happen. The shower drain valve was doing what it’s supposed to do if it was closed and the water from the sink or shower wasn’t draining, it’s actually a back flow preventer to keep water from your gray tank from backing up into your shower when you’re underway. The refrigerator shouldn’t have anything to do with it. Good luck, Steve

I would encourage anyone with the time and or the ability to remove the maxfan, if for no other reason to see how the Oliver is “over built” I didn’t measure the roof thickness,but just seeing the honeycomb core fiberglass construction it was obvious the roof will handle an extreme amount of weight. Steve

LOL, just what are YOU trying to imply? Actually I was able do do the removal from a ladder, but I know for sure the roof will support my considerable weight. Steve

An alternative way to clean the maxfan is to just remove it entirely. If you don’t mind getting on the roof, you just raise the fan to it’s in use position, that exposes 4 screws, remove the screws and the whole assembly lifts out. All that remains is 2 wires and the inner and outer trim rings, I just cut the butt wire connectors and removed the whole unit, disassembled the fan and thoroughly cleaned it. Reassembly was just new butt connectors crimped into place, drop the fan back in and reinsert the 4 screws, done! Steve