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We went dry camping this past weekend and when my wife started the Kuerig using an outlet on the bed stand. The machine started then stopped. I thought it was an inverter issue as the microwave went dead too. Went we got home I started debugging and found that not all outlets were dead and all behaved the same whether on shore power or inverter. Turns out a splice in the outlet on the twin bed street side had come loose. All the outlets are on one circuit but both receptacles on each bed side (twin bed arrangement) have splices in the receptacles and a bad splice means that all “downstream” outlets will not work. The outlets are SCD (self-contained  device style and instead of terminal screws or push connects have slotted copper bands where the neutral, hot, and ground wires go. They can be wired as pass-through or spliced or end of line. It requires an installation tool to properly  press the wire into the SCD slots. The top slice virtually fell out as I opened the receptacle cover. If the Oliver folks used a tool, they didn’t do a very good job. I also opened the receptacle that the Kuerig was plugged into and that pass-through insertion was not solid either. 

The receptacle specs and installation guide is here:

https://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchant2/documents/scd-instructions.pdf

I decided to get this installation tool as I figure there is a strong possibility that this issue may surface again 

https://www.magicmobilehomesupply.com/SCDT-Tool-p/3795.htm

I also noted that the wiring diagram had errors.  There is not a separate leg to the microwave outlet - all outlets are served by 1- 12/2 Rolex cable. The breaker for the outlets was also mislabeled  (we have Truma/inverter/no solar. We also have a receptacle inside the closet as well as outside and only one was on the wiring diagram.  I think the outlet inside the closet was added a couple years ago.

The photo shows the inside of the SCD with the failed spice connection.  The slice connection is listed as one of the connection methods but a pass-through would probably be better as it would not affect the other “downstream” receptacles.  Hopefully this will help someone if something similar happens. I spent hours tracing wires checking voltage and continuity, etc. before I found the issue. 

 

 

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Garry and Kristi

Apex, NC

2018 Oliver Elite II Hull 372

TV 2015 Ram 1500 3.0 L EcoDiesel

image.jpeg.2c22b4b6399d4a57dcd8c86266d3d200.jpeg

 

 

 

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Interesting problem, thanks for making everyone aware.   I wasn’t familiar with that type of outlet, and tbh, it doesn’t seem like the type of connection that would hold up well in an environment with lots of vibration, even though these seem to have been designed for RVs?  I might have to do some reading. 

Snowball • 256 • 2018 Ford Raptor

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I would replace the outlets with standard screw type just like you would have in your home. I can see (from your picture) how (in theory) these outlets would make installation easier on a production line.  I can also see how these can fail. These are similar to the T Tap Insulation Displacement Connectors used in 12 volt circuits. They are hard to install and get a positive, long lasting connection. I won't use them for low voltage wiring and I don't think I'd want these outlets in my high voltage circuits.

Thanks for pointing this out.

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Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0026 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0050 2017 Silverado High Country 2500HD Diesel 4x4 

 

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10 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

I would replace the outlets with standard screw type just like you would have in your home. I can see (from your picture) how (in theory) these outlets would make installation easier on a production line.  I can also see how these can fail. These are similar to the T Tap Insulation Displacement Connectors used in 12 volt circuits. They are hard to install and get a positive, long lasting connection. I won't use them for low voltage wiring and I don't think I'd want these outlets in my high voltage circuits.

Thanks for pointing this out.

Replacing them would give peace of mind. The GFCI outlet under the dinette is a standard outlet and connection with a separate outlet box. I am wondering if the non-gfci receptacles that are the scd type are code for trailers and mobile homes?  I just hate pulling “big amps” with the microwave at the end of the line with 2 splices prior and a potentially dicey connection at its receptacle. I guess the good thing is that one normally doesn’t run a microwave that long. 

Garry and Kristi

Apex, NC

2018 Oliver Elite II Hull 372

TV 2015 Ram 1500 3.0 L EcoDiesel

image.jpeg.2c22b4b6399d4a57dcd8c86266d3d200.jpeg

 

 

 

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