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Everything posted by GarryandKristi

  1. I put an hdmi switch (auto) in our attic too. We have the furrion tv and dvd/radio that has hdmi out to the tv. With splitter can use Roku stick (seldom due to lack of speedy cell phone service even with booster) or lightning to hdmi with phone and play downloaded Netflix stuff. The furrion tv was rigged with rca outs to DVD/radio av in. But, have to say just watching air TV with Andy Griffith and grit Tv westerns is kind of fun for a simple change of pace.
  2. Definitely try tractor supply first. When recently having our Ollie serviced in Hohenwald, the women at the service desk said that she had worked at Walmart in Hohenwald and they didn’t have much of an RV section although hitches would be in automotive. Hard to beat Walmart prices in any event.
  3. We have a 2015 RAM 1500 eco diesel and I love it. Pulls the Ollie great. Get about 16 mpg overall with the trailer. I have gotten as high as 27 mpg on long highways trips without pulling. But I think the 2 re-flashes of tranny and EGR system for an emissions settlement may have dinged the mileage a tad. With a diesel, it just feels like you are not straining too much.
  4. It all depends on what scenarios you will actually be in. We have the 4 6v (2 pairs in series, then pairs in parallel) 400 AH AGMs. Got our elite 2 in August 2018. We chose not to get solar because most of the campsites we anticipated and do use are here in the east and shaded. We have done several dry camping trips (with a few 3 nights). Always had enough power but do switch the fridge (absorption) to gas and normally don’t use microwave much. We do run the max air all night most of these trips with no problem. Did get a bit low on voltage when we used the microwave more than normal. If we need ac when drycamping - so far we haven’t been in the situation- we would run our inverter generator (we did get the soft-start on the AC. So for us this works fine and upgrading for us would probably be more for re-sale. When the AGMs go - I suspect we will seriously consider the lithiums, but not an inverter upgrade as the only reason for that that I can see would be to run AC and that would require rewiring - plus you we wouldn’t be able to run the ac very long on batteries anyway. So, I guess we are one of the few without solar but for us it has been perfectly fine. Just another (lower end) perspective.
  5. Never heard of Coarsegold, but you probably haven’t heard of my hometown either, Escalon, just north of Modesto. Welcome.
  6. Hi, curious to know if the covers have worked longer term. Ours tend to rust even when kept off the ground so I am wondering if these just prevent you from seeing the rust as it would seem to me that the sleeves would not seal the chains from humidity and they would still rust? I was thinking of plasti-dip spray but that would likely be messy with links partially “rubber welded” at their junctions.
  7. We used to live in Fort Collins (mid to late 90’s when the micro-breweries were a new thing). We loved it. We visited a few years ago when I had a conference there and found it had grown quite a bit - still I think a nice place.
  8. We have the Anderson levelers and find those are very handy. Don’t think you’ll need anything else not listed. Their has only been 1 time that the Andersen leveler range could not level our trailer. We just augmented with some square plastic pads - looked okie but worked. We’ve used camco filters. The short flex hose on ours developed a leak (not just a gasket problem) so I made a replacement using a section of garden hose and a hose repair kit for male/female ends. We have never had issues with power. I think the onboard power management systems of the Oliver’s guard against poor quality power. The readout in ours is in the attic but don’t know where display is on the new models. We purchased a “swagman bike RV towing mount”. The nice thing about it is that is does not require any other hardware or adaption. It will slide over the Andersen hitch bar (a square collar around the bar). It accommodates 2 bikes. It may be a bit tricky to orient and load the 2 bikes so pedals don’t clash,etc. but once you figure that out it’s. not a big deal.
  9. OK, Bruckner Symphonies are too long so i’ll Offer this- something different and you just gotta love trombone choirs 😉
  10. That should work. I got black wire from Lowe’s - brand is blue hawk and it was 16 gage. What I got will rust but one can keep an eye on it. The one you list is stainless so that would not be an issue. I think the point is to get malleable wire that can be twisted and tightened without snapping. Tie wire use in construction for rebar is black but of course just temporary and buried in concrete.
  11. Our leds on our furrion 30 amp cord stopped working within about a year. They neither work at home, storage facility, or at any campgrounds. Cable works fine. I suspect the led or circuitry to them are bad. The bigger issue s sue in my mind of the furrion cords are the size of the male head. Many campground boxes have cord cutouts on the boxes that are not centered with the female outlet and the large furrion head and head to cable transition is not accommodated so it is difficult to impossible to plug the male end into the box without “box modifications” which may have already been attempted by others (pliers bending back cutouts for cord). I think the furrion cable may be a bit unique with the threaded female ring end to the trailer port. Haven’t checked out alternatives with a smaller male end that would fit more easily into electrical boxes.
  12. Am going to try just blowing out tanks this winter, for ease and easier resumption (had some residual “antifreeze bouquet” after last winterization) . There is some good insight/tips on that method in this thread. Regarding the fresh water tanks, I have never experienced a poor taste - have had more issues with some campground water regarding taste. Maybe after spending a little time in the Horn of Africa and getting giardia, I am a little less sensitive to potential water issues 😜. If it’s from a chlorinated public water supply I am fine with it and I wouldn’t think cooking with tank water would be of any issue. We do take some bottled water though for convenience and guaranteed taste (or lack thereof).
  13. I put the EZ gutters on ours and have been very pleased with the difference they have made. We used to have water ingress all the time prior to installation and have had none since despite several heavy rainfalls including while traveling. I just placed them pretty much immediately above the frame (mostly to use as a guide). I think what has made the difference is keeping as much water off the windows and channels/drains as possible in the first place.
  14. Nice. Be sure to take off that first fraction of methanol 😊
  15. I took it as being humorous and had a good chuckle myself......
  16. I recently had the shackle pin back completely out. Fortunately just as were pulling out of campsite. I am going to “mouse” them to the shackle body with black annealed tie wire. I found the attached on-line.
  17. Likely overtightened. Looked pretty “squeezed” when I last looked.
  18. I agree that the real problem is the cable. I did lube the gate channels by loosening the screws and dosed with a spray can straw with some lithium or silicone spray (don’t remember exactly). It worked for a few operations then back to the default of being about 1/4 “ of full bottomed -out closure. The issue is the torturous cable path of the black tank valve with an insufficient straight final run to the slide valve. I haven’t lubed the cable but I think that is the best solution. I tried the coconut oil stuff and it didn’t solve the lack of full closure issue. Another “solution is just to remove the dinette seat and underlying hatch and just push the slide gate fully closed at the center near the cable termination.
  19. Our OEII is less than 2 years old and all shock bushings are pretty severely cracked - probably have been that way for some time. Trailer has about 6,500 miles on it. Nothing off road or weird.
  20. Replacing them would give peace of mind. The GFCI outlet under the dinette is a standard outlet and connection with a separate outlet box. I am wondering if the non-gfci receptacles that are the scd type are code for trailers and mobile homes? I just hate pulling “big amps” with the microwave at the end of the line with 2 splices prior and a potentially dicey connection at its receptacle. I guess the good thing is that one normally doesn’t run a microwave that long.
  21. We went dry camping this past weekend and when my wife started the Kuerig using an outlet on the bed stand. The machine started then stopped. I thought it was an inverter issue as the microwave went dead too. Went we got home I started debugging and found that not all outlets were dead and all behaved the same whether on shore power or inverter. Turns out a splice in the outlet on the twin bed street side had come loose. All the outlets are on one circuit but both receptacles on each bed side (twin bed arrangement) have splices in the receptacles and a bad splice means that all “downstream” outlets will not work. The outlets are SCD (self-contained device style and instead of terminal screws or push connects have slotted copper bands where the neutral, hot, and ground wires go. They can be wired as pass-through or spliced or end of line. It requires an installation tool to properly press the wire into the SCD slots. The top slice virtually fell out as I opened the receptacle cover. If the Oliver folks used a tool, they didn’t do a very good job. I also opened the receptacle that the Kuerig was plugged into and that pass-through insertion was not solid either. The receptacle specs and installation guide is here: https://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchant2/documents/scd-instructions.pdf I decided to get this installation tool as I figure there is a strong possibility that this issue may surface again https://www.magicmobilehomesupply.com/SCDT-Tool-p/3795.htm I also noted that the wiring diagram had errors. There is not a separate leg to the microwave outlet - all outlets are served by 1- 12/2 Rolex cable. The breaker for the outlets was also mislabeled (we have Truma/inverter/no solar. We also have a receptacle inside the closet as well as outside and only one was on the wiring diagram. I think the outlet inside the closet was added a couple years ago. The photo shows the inside of the SCD with the failed spice connection. The slice connection is listed as one of the connection methods but a pass-through would probably be better as it would not affect the other “downstream” receptacles. Hopefully this will help someone if something similar happens. I spent hours tracing wires checking voltage and continuity, etc. before I found the issue.
  22. Actually I misspoke. Our inverter only serves the outlets so even if I wanted to run AC with batteries and inverter I couldn’t. Maybe other configurations have different circuits served by the inverter. That is ok with me - we have the AGMs but I would not want to run the AC if dry camping because I would want to save the battery capacity for other things. If I wanted to run AC without shore power I would run it with a generator. We don’t have solar. Increased battery capacity is nice - I just don’t see it as a solution to running AC in normal situations
  23. An amp-hour is still an amp-hour and there and when you consider having to invert 12 to 120 volts, there is quite a price to pay in amperage draw. My guess is that instead of being able to run about 1 hour with agms, you might get double? Then of course you have depleted you power supply if off shore power. So I think “running the ac” is more of a gimmick promotion.
  24. We just got back (two days ago) from camping at mistletoe state park in Georgia. Nice park and we had a great site overlooking the lake with plenty of space. RV sites were about 2/3 occupied. South Carolina state parks opened today and Tennessee state parks are taking reservations for 5/15 forward.
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