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Has anyone upgraded the duct?


NCeagle
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I was inspecting things in my basement and I noticed a large tear in the flexible aluminum duct that Oliver uses.  It's the really thin, flimsy stuff and rips super easy.  I pulled it out to repair it and found another near where it connects into the furnace.  Now I'm wondering how many other rips and holes I have in them.  What a bummer.

Anyone tried semi-rigid duct or something a little more robust?  Not sure how to get to the ducting under the sink and subsequently to the bathroom, but at least I could upgrade all around the access doors where things are more likely to get ripped.

Thanks.

Edited by NCeagle

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2020 Elite II, Hull 688 --- 2021 Silverado 2500HD, 6.6L Duramax Diesel

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Yes and no. I did replace mine while doing my plumbing refit but I didn’t bother to preserve the bath duct. And in three weeks on the road without it, neither my wife nor I could tell any difference at all. My plan was to reroute the duct down the other side (possible since I’ve previously removed my unused black tank drain), but I don’t think it’s worth the trouble. The bath just doesn’t get appreciably colder than the main cabin. 

With the bath duct gone, the two cabin vents blow a bit stronger - probably due as much to having the ductwork pulled tighter.

I replaced the remaining duct with insulated flex duct. I experimented with rigid duct but there’s too many ins and outs with the plumbing to make it work. I guess I could have done the duct first and worked the plumbing around it but that would have made for a real rats nest of plumbing.

But the insulated flex duct is huge and I don’t really like it. I think that I’ll go back with semi rigid like you said.

The old duct that I pulled out was just nasty with caked on fiberglass dust. 

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There was an old thread about the ductwork being stepped on and mangled during installation. They should really consider something better since it seems to be a regular problem. A smaller diameter aluminum flex pipe similar to some types of dryer vents might be a better compromise.

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2021 Oliver Elite II, Hull #748

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It is pretty much household dryer exhaust duct. The heat that radiate out from it keeps the plumbing from freezing. If your section with a tear is not easy to replace I would use some 'silver' insulation tape (looks like silver duct tape..or duct tape..that is where it got it's name after all.). I have moved mine around a lot and have never approached tearing it, and I store nothing near it...

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On 11/29/2020 at 4:30 PM, Overland said:

Yes and no. I did replace mine while doing my plumbing refit but I didn’t bother to preserve the bath duct. And in three weeks on the road without it, neither my wife nor I could tell any difference at all. My plan was to reroute the duct down the other side (possible since I’ve previously removed my unused black tank drain), but I don’t think it’s worth the trouble. The bath just doesn’t get appreciably colder than the main cabin. 

With the bath duct gone, the two cabin vents blow a bit stronger - probably due as much to having the ductwork pulled tighter.

I replaced the remaining duct with insulated flex duct. I experimented with rigid duct but there’s too many ins and outs with the plumbing to make it work. I guess I could have done the duct first and worked the plumbing around it but that would have made for a real rats nest of plumbing.

But the insulated flex duct is huge and I don’t really like it. I think that I’ll go back with semi rigid like you said.

The old duct that I pulled out was just nasty with caked on fiberglass dust. 

I'm using your idea from a similar discussion on another thread - thanks!  I'm in the process of routing a 3" rigid steel duct down the street side all the way to where it meets the foot well from the dinette.  I can't get by there without removing the black tank drain as you pointed out.  I want the benefit of the furnace air on that side (just as the other side gets) just to prevent freezing in some of those trouble areas, help keep the batteries warmer, keep my bed warmer since my wife quickly figured out which one was warmest, etc.  Inefficient ducts (I'll strategically put holes in the 3" steel duct and cap the end) down both sides will make the Oliver truly a 5 season trailer capable of keeping me alive should I get stuck in a Rocky Mountain winter storm.  As long as I don't run out of propane!  🙂

Edited by NCeagle
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2020 Elite II, Hull 688 --- 2021 Silverado 2500HD, 6.6L Duramax Diesel

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