Upgrade To Lithium's Request For Info

[Geronimo John]

I'm in the final stages of designing my upgrade from 12 volt Duralast Marine L/A Deep Cycle batteries  (OTT Base Battery Package) to three Dragonfly Energy Battleborn 100 Ah lithiums. 

Doing this while  almost 4,000 miles from our Ollie has created some challenges.  I would greatly appreciate your assistance with the following:  

• Pictures of the OEM Duralast battery cables in the battery box area.  (My hope is to clear out all the battery clutter, an re-use as much of the 4/0 cables as possible)

• Close up pictures of the Positive and Negative Buss fixtures.  Needed to connect the DC to DC charger, solar suitcase panes, and 350 amp master cutoff switch (Battery + Home Run)

• What are the + and - buss terminal diameters for the 4/0 (3/8"?) and terminals for the smaller cables?

Upon completion of the effort next summer, I'll post a materials list of the effort.

Thank you,

GJ

[Hokieman]

My 2021 #797  came with 2 Brightway Group Marine/RV  batteries as standard.  I ordered the Zamp 340W solar panels with Zamp 30A PWM controller as an option, which included the battery disconnect switch in the upper street side cabinet.  No inverter, Progressive Dynamics PD9260C converter/charger.   My trailer is parked about 500 miles away right now, so can’t get you all the pics you need of the buss bars etc.   I have several pics on hand I took before replacing them with 2 BattleBorn 100’s.   The 1/0 parallel jumpers were too short for me to use, so I ordered 12” 1/0 jumper wires from Battleborn.   Wires from battery going inside to positive and negative busses are 4/0. 

Right Side Battery Box:

  Upper red + wire goes to 60A OptiFuse breaker

   Lower red/black + wire goes to solar panels

   Black wire - goes to converter/charger

Left Side Battery Box 

    Yellow - wire goes to negative buss

Ive no idea how the 2022 models are configured.  From what I can tell in this forum, there are many variations based on age and electrical equipment, especially inverters.   For example, the PD9260C converter does not have a lithium setting, but a $25 plug in pendent converts it.   There is no positive buss on mine, all + wires are bolted into the OptiFuse breaker.  Frankly, that section  is a mess I intend to modify soon, I was waiting for my warranty period to expire.  It all works great however.   If you PM me your email, I can send higher resolution pics you can zoom in on.   

[Hokieman]

I found a pic of my negative buss.   I also saved a pic I found on the forum of someone else’s trailer positive buss bar, I cannot remember who.  This is not the setup I have.  What I see in that pic, which is kinda fuzzy, is (from far to near):

1.  Auto reset breaker from Zamp panels to battery

2.  Auto reset breaker with 7 pin charge wire and breakaway switch

3. OptiFuse 60A breaker

4.  Positive  buss with Jack wires, etc. 

That’s just a guess on my part, others may be of more help here.

 

[Minnesota Oli]

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Posted February 1 (edited)

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2718/MaxiBus_Insulating_Cover_for_PN_2105_and_2126https://www.bluesea.com/products/2126/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Six_5_16in-18_Studshttps://www.amazon.com/Battery-Spartan-Power-Negative-Terminals/dp/B07MXQSNHR/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&hvadid=77859219137661&hvbmt=bb&hvdev=c&hvqmt=b&keywords=spartan%2Bcable&qid=1612200841&sr=8-5&tag=mh0b-20&th=1

 

On 1/28/2021 at 12:34 PM, BackofBeyond said:

Yep - or at a minimum - design sheet, specs, etc.

A really nice job. One I will have in mind in a few years.

RB

Well I want to try to answer to this request. Its a project that requires you to cover a lot of ground so I decided to break it down to individual aspect of the project.

 So I am standing at the side of the Oliver looking at the open battery compartment. I see this maze of cables and I am thinking of a discussion on the Oliver Forum. It was suggesting that there could be a improvement to this maze of cables by installing bus bars, one positive and one negative inside the basement of the Oliver. This would allow the cables from the various components such as Zamp Solar Controller, Side wall solar Port, Progressive Dynamics Power Center, and the chassis ground to be routed to the relevant bus bar. With that done it would only leave the positive and the negative 4/0 cables leading to to the battery compartment from each perspective bus bar. With that said the only other cables that my set up has is the one that leads from the Victron BMV-712 battery monitor to the remote display. I also have a now unused wire that was for the temperature probe that was hook up to the Zamp solar controller. The service person at Battle Born advised to disconnect this at the Zamp solar controller, I did leave the unhooked wire in place for possible future use.

 I then went inside to determine the placement of the bus bars considering the number and lengths of cables that need to be relocated and how I was  going to attach them in the Oliver basement. I was looking at the positive 4/0 cable coming in to the basement from the battery compartment then going to the main fuse block and then continuing on to the inverter. That is when I thought about swapping out the fuse block with the positive bus bar sense the 4/0 cable is already run and no need to make up positive 4/0 cables. It also had a mounting block already in place. This meant I could move the main fuse out to the battery compartment next to the positive battery post to better protect the wiring. This was another topic I remember following on the Oliver Forum, so much information to be had.

 I looked at how the various cables were run into both sides of the battery compartment and they had positive on one side and negative on the other. So it made sense with the wire lengths the way they were to try to find a spot to mount the negative bus bar in the compartment under the street side bed.
I started looking for a place or a way to do it with out having to glue a block to the fiberglass. I noticed two 1/2" bolts that were used to mount the street side stabilizer to the frame. I used a 1/4" aluminum flat that was 6" X 14" long. I then drilled holes to match the stabilizer mount. I then had to put a slight bend about 5" from the end so the plate would run parallel to the wheel well. That is where I mounted the negative bus bar. When I pulled the cables back out of the battery compartment I was able to do it with out removing the terminal ends. Some I had to bend slightly to get them through the cable glands, but this saved me from having to mess around with installing new ones. All the wires turned out to be the right length except the positive wire from the remote solar port. I was able to shorten that wire where there was a inline fuse and add a ring terminal. The negative 4/0 cable that went from the battery to the inverter was then rerouted to the negative bus bar. The only cable I had to buy was a three foot 4/0 to go from the negative bus bar to the inverter.

 

 

 

[CnC]

Here's two pics from a 2020 E2.

Original:  First is the way the previous owner set up three lithium three batteries.  The previous owner did NOT wire them up correctly - he wired them up as if they were lead batteries.  Also note his installation of the shunt does NOT measure the system's charge/discharge properly.  

Revision:  I decided to re-arrange the three existing batteries.  My arrangement meant I didn't have to remove the heavy, bulky mattress and stand on my head.  I did have to make new cables for the batteries, shunt and busses and then used the existing Oli cables.  Be careful not  to arrange the switch and busses in a way that crimps them when closing the battery compartment.  I used VHB tape to secure the switch and busses.

[John E Davies]

27 minutes ago, CnC said:

 

Revision:  I decided to re-arrange the three existing batteries.  My arrangement meant I didn't have to remove the heavy, bulky mattress and stand on my head.  I did have to make new cables for the batteries, shunt and busses and then used the existing Oli cables.  Be careful not  to arrange the switch and busses in a way that crimps them when closing the battery compartment.  I used VHB tape to secure the switch and busses.

That is pretty neat, since you are in Phoenix, how are those batteries holding up the the intense heat? VHB tape is pretty darn strong, but keep a very close eye on those parts that are directly over the manufacturer’s stickers, those may come loose. Removing the stickers first would make for a stronger bond.

Can you post a pic that shows the hold down straps?

Thanks,

John Davies

Spokane WA

[CnC]

John, I'm fortunate to have a conditioned 24x60 building in which my shop, pontoon boat and RV live - so there is no problem with Phoenix heat.  Also, I've insulated the previously vented battery compartment door as there is no longer a need with lithium.  I found the BB stickers impossible to remove - they are a year old.  The VHB tape sets up after about 48 hours and is kind of like Velcro - you may pry it up but lateral movement is nearly impossible.  The batteries are stuffed within a thick closed cell foam that holds them very snug - I literally used a mallet to seat the foam between the sides of the rack and the batteries.  The battery cables strap them together into one unit.  After installation and looking at the reality of strapping them to the sliding rack - it became obvious that the slide mechanism isn't going to be much help in a wreck.  Of course, I will be checking them frequently now that the switch and busses are located there.   When I get time, I'll be installing a solar panel switch...

[Hokieman]

On 11/16/2021 at 11:27 PM, Mike D. said:

Right Side Battery Box:

  Upper red + wire goes to 60A OptiFuse breaker

   Lower red/black + wire goes to solar panels

   Black wire - goes to converter/charger

I made an error.....The black wire on the right side of the battery box wall does not go the the converter/charger.   I think it is the negative wire that goes to the Zamp Controller, and then on up to the solar panels.   Apologies for the confusion.   I could do better if I had a wiring diagram instead of going by memory!