torque values for lug nuts

[jd1923]

11 hours ago, johnwen said:

I don't know about the splines.  I have been torquing at 100# and have not had any issues.

90 lbs is the better number. Generally a stud will snap from over-torquing. Studs should also be clean and dry. If that single stud happened to have some grease or oil on it plus the 100#, that would do!

To repair, remove the drum. On a workbench hammer out broken stud with a HD center punch. Line up the splines from back side and hammer in place. If you have the old-school bearings, removing the drum means repacking the bearings, not necessary with Nev-R Lube of course.

Thought I would also copy instructions from the 2016-OTT-Owners-Manual.pdf here, where it states to use the stabilizer jacks to change a tire and provides the 90# torque spec (Oliver jacks and 6-bolt studs have not changed, from the first hull to the last).

Loosen the lug nuts on the tire you want to remove. Check for a stable footing under the jack and place an ABS footing pad or block of wood about 4” in height below the jack foot plate. Raise the jack until the tire clears the ground, then finish loosening and removing them. Pull off the old tire, slide the hubcap out backwards and insert it on spare. Set spare tire evenly on the lug nuts and hand tighten lug nuts. Retract jack back to travel position. Now tighten lug nuts completely. Lug nuts should be torqued to 90 ft lbs. Place the flat tire in the spare location.

[johnwen]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

90 lbs is the better number. Generally a stud will snap from over-torquing. Studs should also be clean and dry. If that single stud happened to have some grease or oil on it plus the 100#, that would do!

To repair, remove the drum. On a workbench hammer out broken stud with a HD center punch. Line up the splines from back side and hammer in place. If you have the old-school bearings, removing the drum means repacking the bearings, not necessary with Nev-R Lube of course.

Thought I would also copy instructions from the 2016-OTT-Owners-Manual.pdf here, where it states to use the stabilizer jacks to change a tire and provides the 90# torque spec (Oliver jacks and 6-bolt studs have not changed, from the first hull to the last).

Loosen the lug nuts on the tire you want to remove. Check for a stable footing under the jack and place an ABS footing pad or block of wood about 4” in height below the jack foot plate. Raise the jack until the tire clears the ground, then finish loosening and removing them. Pull off the old tire, slide the hubcap out backwards and insert it on spare. Set spare tire evenly on the lug nuts and hand tighten lug nuts. Retract jack back to travel position. Now tighten lug nuts completely. Lug nuts should be torqued to 90 ft lbs. Place the flat tire in the spare location.

Thanks, JD...will do 90#

[jd1923]

14 minutes ago, johnwen said:

Thanks, JD...will do 90#

But if you already have them at 100# they're OK, leave them alone for now and do 90# next time.

[Galileo]

On 6/30/2025 at 8:02 PM, jd1923 said:

Please, please, please just use your stabilizer jacks! It’s safer and easier, recommended in the OTT 2016 Owners Manual, later OTT lawyers changed their recommendation.

I thought using the stabilizer jacks to lift the trailer - or even take much weight off the springs - was strongly advised against - if not outright “forbidden”. At least that’s what we were told at our delivery orientation. 
 

Along those lines, I’ve even noticed that even running the rear stabilizer jacks more than a split second after they start taking the weight of the trailer twists the frame enough to make the screen door bind in the frame.

[Galileo]

On 7/1/2025 at 8:45 AM, jd1923 said:

To repair, remove the drum. On a workbench hammer out broken stud with a HD center punch. Line up the splines from back side and hammer in place. If you have the old-school bearings, removing the drum means repacking the bearings, not necessary with Nev-R Lube of course.

Though I’m new to trailers and trailering, I’ve replaced wheel studs before. 

Though they may be pressed in at the factory - replacement ones can be “pulled” in using the lug nuts. 

I didn’t pull the brake drums when I had the wheels off. Duh. I should have, but it was hot and just jacking the damn thing up had me ready to be done. Next time. 

Next time I check the lug nuts for tightness, I’ll back them off and re-torque them to 100ft/lbs.

The torque specs for our tow vehicle (2025 GMC Sierra 1500) is 140ft/lbs. so I’m giving my muscles and torque wrench a workout.  Was the same for the previous TV…

[jd1923]

45 minutes ago, Galileo said:

Though they may be pressed in at the factory - replacement ones can be “pulled” in using the lug nuts. 

Good observation and thinking here! Your are correct. Use a few greased washers too, so not to deform the nut.

Our Oliver makes all kinds of noises just leveling, Been meaning to ask about that.

Regardless, READ the OTT Manual I quoted above and forget what the OTT Legal Department states in writing! All lawyers and politicians lie, that’s what they’re paid for.

Also, an 8-lug 9/16” or 14mm lug may take 140 lb-ft, I prefer 120 is enough! Your 6-bolt rims, studs 1/2” or 13mm take 90, not 100 lb-ft, so not to break the stud! 🤣

[Mike and Carol]

16 hours ago, Galileo said:

I thought using the stabilizer jacks to lift the trailer - or even take much weight off the springs - was strongly advised against - if not outright “forbidden”. At least that’s what we were told at our delivery orientation. 

These days it is.  When we ordered our trailer it was a selling point.  There were legal considerations for Oliver to change their policy on the onboard jack use.  I’ve used the back jacks numerous times to remove wheels for various reasons.  I even used them at Discount Tire when they were putting on new tires.

If you do use the onboard jacks, keep the trailer hitched to the truck.  Keep the front jack down.  If it’s for any lengthy work, use an additional jack to increase the margin of safety.  Common sense goes a long way.  Mike

[Geronimo John]

31 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:

If you do use the onboard jacks, keep the trailer hitched to the truck.  Keep the front jack down.  If it’s for any lengthy work, use an additional jack to increase the margin of safety

Let's consider the Ollie Frame as a loaded beam running to the hitch ball.

The front jack is between the hitch ball and the back jacks.

Raising the back jacks then shifts load to the front jack witch is retarded somewhat by the TV suspension.

The higher you raise the back of the trailer, the more load the pivit point (Front jack) receives from the back jacks.  But it also compresses the springs on the TV resulting in additional load as well.  Can this place over 3,000 pounds of load?  Not likely in my eyes, but is something to consider.

So in addition to your well stated comments:

• I only lightly plant the front jack.
• Set the parking brake of the TV.
• Tie a red/pink flag to the steering wheel as a reminder NO GO.
• Collect up all copies of the TV key sets if others are around who may not be tuned in to the situtation.

GJ