Wintertime Travel Tips?

[GAP]

We are planning a mid winter ski safari this year.  Loose itinerary is starting in Connecticut, visit family in Virginia and northern Florida, 7-10 days skiing in Colorado, winter backcounty ski trip in Boundary Water Minnesota, Ski our way home through Montreal and Vermont.  We have quite a lot of winter camping experience in New England but are concerned about driving conditions in the Colorado to Minnesota to Montreal sections so are looking for experienced input.  Skiing in Colorado will all be NW of Denver and we are planning to drop down from northern Minnesota to cross over between Lake Superior and Lake Michigan to avoid the desolate stretch above Superior.  There seems to be plenty of year round camping available around Colorado ski resorts but very little in Nebraska, South Dakota and southern Minnesota.  Road conditions are updated frequently in Colorado but have found no resources from there through Minnesota.  Will have snow rated AT tires, a set of tire cables for two tires on the Oliver and chains for the F150.

Any suggestions as to safety, sanity and sites worth seeing would be appreciated.

Gerry

 

[SeaDawg]

@GAP, we only camp in Minnesota in shoulder seasons and summer, but I know that many state parks are open for winter camping. (Some primitive, some electric only, no water, for sure.) Sometimes flush toilets in the visitor center of bigger parks, but no dump station, nor water at sites. Some places vault toilets in winter, others, you're likely on your own.

How far south in Minnesota are you looking? I94, or i90? Do you include cross country skiing or snow shoeing in your trips? Lots of great trails, from what my friends tell me. Especially around Lanesboro/Harmony/ Spring Valley bluff country, where the glaciers didn't scrape the landscape clean. I know there's a state park near Mankato that's open for camping in winter, and I have friends who have a home on one of the Kato lakes. I suspect they'd check it out for you, if I asked.

When will you be in Minnesota? You must  know it can be super cold in January.  It's already been sub zero at night up by my brother outside Brainerd, for a night or two. January can be really, really cold,  like highs around zero, lows 30 or 40 below. Depends on the year. 

February often brought ice storms when I lived there. Not as cold, but bitter, and crappy driving. March was unpredictable. However, if you can stay put, Minnesota plows work magic.  

I can reach out to Minnesota friends, or you can explore the mn state parks website, for camping. Some dnr parks also.

As for highway info, mn 511 app is pretty good.

@Minnesota Oli, and a few other hardy Vikings, could probably give you better info.

I learned to ski near Minneapolis,  at Buck Hill. Ditto, took my daughter (Florida girl) up there to learn to snowboard, from my parents' home on owatonna. It's not a great run, pretty much straight down, pretty much view of the interstate... cross country is more interesting. 

My hat's off to you. I gave away my skis and boots years ago. 

[KenB]

I live in the Mpls/StPaul area in Minnesota and have driven our LE II to Utah/Colorado and back in March (and in the summer).  Everything is weather dependent.  A pretty major winter storm moved across Nebraska when we made the trip west.  We dropped down to Kansas to avoid it.  It added a 1/2 day of additional travel.  I70 west of Denver closed for a few hours the next day due to an avalanche.  Not a big deal to sit out a road closer when towing a camper (you have food, water, heat, and a toilet), but it could have been bad depending on plans and reservations.  Don’t plan on covering summer travel distances in the winter.  The truck stops and rest areas are always jammed full with semi rigs between here and Denver.   You can’t depend on them being accessible for even an hour or two of rest.   Rigs are often parked up and down solid in the access lanes.

 It took five summers of traveling, but I’ve been to every state park in Minnesota.   While open for day visitors, most close the gates to the campgrounds around mid October and don’t open again until Spring.  The Mn DNR has a good website where you can make reservations.  Check it out before assuming they’re open.  Mn state parks require online reservations now.  Ranger stations will be unmanned in the winter, except MAYBE weekends.  Cell service isn’t guaranteed.  You may end up backtracking many miles to pick up a signal to claim a campsite even IF you find an open park.  The days of filling out a slip and dropping your fee in the box on the post are mostly over.  I know that many of the National Forest campgrounds around Ely are also closed during the winter.  It’s probably not worth it to plow out the snow, especially in the camping spurs.  The Army Corp of Engineers close their campgrounds too.  Even in early October I have most campgrounds to myself.  Call the ranger district for the area of the BWCA that you plan to visit, it’s pretty slow up there in the winter, they should have time to talk.   They’d have a list if there are any camping options.  

Unless you’re driving freeway, stick to daylight hours anyplace north of St Paul due to deer strikes.  At least the rut will be over when you’ll be here.  Hwy 35 from Iowa to Duluth will be well taken care of.  Same for Hwys 61 and 53 north out of the Duluth area and towards the BWCA.  Expect side roads off of 35/53/61 to be slippery and ice covered.   It’ll be a pleasant surprise if they’re not.  I’ve never seen anyone use chains in Mn.  Studded tires are illegal for residents.  Everything east of Duluth over to Sault Ste. Marie, MI is pretty desolate.  You’ll probably take highway 2 east out of Superior, WI after heading south out of the BWCA.  It’s a two lane state highway.  Don’t assume gas stations will be open late.  LOTS of deer on that road.  I haven’t been east of The Soo at all, so I can say what it looks past there.  I’ve driven my motorcycle around Lake Superior in the summer.   I would not want to tow my camper around it in the winter.  No driving up there after dark.  If a storm comes through, it can be hours before a tow truck is available.   They might have to come from a considerable distance and will be backed up.  Plan on spending the night in the ditch if you go off the road late in the day.  Cell service is spotty away from the freeway in MN, WI and in the UP.  It seems to switch between Verizon and AT&T depending where you are.   

If I was making the trip, I’d lean heavily on our Harvest Host subscription.   It’s more likely a business would have a place for you to park compared to public camping facilities.  

Hope this helps.  It can get VERY cold.  I used to live in Duluth.  It can be below 0° for weeks, especially as you go north.

Let me know if you need anything else.  Good Luck and be flexible.  
 

[John E Davies]

Gerry, no offense, but I think it is a foolish crazy idea. But this is from a guy who parks his trailer thru the entire winter. I have been towing for 50 years, and I do know the perils of winter driving, especially on cleared roads (hard packed snow.) Ignoring the nasty effects of mag chloride, you could not pay me enough to tow “Mouse” over them. 

I suggest that you at the very minimum install a set of 100% winter tires on the truck and the trailer… . No All Season can begin to compare, even if it has the snowflake symbol on it. The compound is too hard below 40 deg F. My LC200 has studded Nokian Hakka LT tires and they are wonderful. I scrapped a set of three season old studless Nokian snow tires with 70% tread left after a sphincter tightening experience on sheet ice on the Interstate that almost killed me. That exact same scenario involved my son and my old Land Cruiser 80, four years ago, but he totaled it. Studs rule!

Unfortunately soft tires will wear really fast when towing and the steering will be disturbingly vague. The trailer may not like them either.

Around here the number of TRAVEL trailers you see on the road from Dec through Feb  can be counted on the fingers of one hand... I believe deep down that for a trip like this you need a truck camper on a big pickup. Period.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

[KenB]

There are more Mn state parks open for the winter than I thought.   Make sure you make reservations in advance.

https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/winter_camping.html

Ken 

[John E Davies]

Oh yes, ask your truck and trailer insurance rep for any limitations/ exclusions about such an extensive off season trip in inclement weather.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[SeaDawg]

If you do manage the back country ski trip in the boundary waters, I'll look forward to your photos. This will undoubtedly be your biggest challenge,  towing, and I have zero recommendations.  Maybe someone else can help .

My brother and friends did this in spring, tent camping. Several times. I have no idea on access, and plowing,  in winter. 

Everything depends on the year, for sure, but my family rarely went north of Bemidji, after deer hunting season. 

Northern Minnesota winters can be brutal. We get the Canadian fronts, and in Southern Minnesota,  the ice storms.  

I moved to Florida a long time ago, and rarely go back in the beautiful winter. Too many memories of canceled reservations because of weather .

Ps.  winds across the plains can be ferocious,  along with snows. Plan to stay put, at a rest area,  if the winds kick up, across the Dakotas. 

Winter is beautiful in Minnesota,  on good days. It's also super cold, and unpredictable. Snow bands, and ice bands, can be small, like 50 to  100 miles.

I love my native state, but rarely go there in winter. Viking blood, and a sense of reason.

Read O E Rolvaags "Giants in the Earth".  This is what my ancestral family dealt with. We joke about the pineapple belt. It's just cold, snowing,  and often icey, in winter .

Were it me, I'd drop south from Denver.  

 

 

[Geronimo John]

5 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

lows 30 or 40 below.

Hey from a Hawaii/Texas resident you can take this with a grain of salt.  However as a Mechanical Engineer there is one salient thought I can provide:

Suggest you VERIFY that the food grade antifreeze you use to winterize your OE2 is rated for at least -50 degrees F.  Some are, some are not.  Buyer beware. 

PS:  Amazingly the Super Tech is rated for -50F.  Surprised me.    

[John E Davies]

24 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

Suggest you VERIFY that the food grade antifreeze you use to winterize your OE2 is rated for at least -50 degrees F.  Some are, some are not.  Buyer beware. 

PS:  Amazingly the Super Tech is rated for -50F.  Surprised me.    

If I thought the temp was going to drop much below 0 degrees F, I would drain the entire system (long before the cold hit!) and blow it out with air, then do an antifreeze treatment, and then blow THAT out with air. The real worry with using only compressed air is that there will always be a little leftover water in the system, and it will accumulate at the low spots like the street side check valves. Doing it twice with AF in between should make the system freeze proof.

The folks who really get screwed don’t winterize nearly soon enough, and when they do try to do it - “OMG an arctic blast is here!” - all the drains are frozen solid and it is far too late.

This is all entirely theiretical for me 😬. The coldest my unheated but attached RV bay has every gotten is +42 degrees F.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[GAP]

15 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

@GAP, we only camp in Minnesota in shoulder seasons and summer, but I know that many state parks are open for winter camping. (Some primitive, some electric only, no water, for sure.) Sometimes flush toilets in the visitor center of bigger parks, but no dump station, nor water at sites. Some places vault toilets in winter, others, you're likely on your own.

How far south in Minnesota are you looking? I94, or i90? Do you include cross country skiing or snow shoeing in your trips? Lots of great trails, from what my friends tell me. Especially around Lanesboro/Harmony/ Spring Valley bluff country, where the glaciers didn't scrape the landscape clean. I know there's a state park near Mankato that's open for camping in winter, and I have friends who have a home on one of the Kato lakes. I suspect they'd check it out for you, if I asked.

When will you be in Minnesota? You must  know it can be super cold in January.  It's already been sub zero at night up by my brother outside Brainerd, for a night or two. January can be really, really cold,  like highs around zero, lows 30 or 40 below. Depends on the year. 

February often brought ice storms when I lived there. Not as cold, but bitter, and crappy driving. March was unpredictable. However, if you can stay put, Minnesota plows work magic.  

I can reach out to Minnesota friends, or you can explore the mn state parks website, for camping. Some dnr parks also.

As for highway info, mn 511 app is pretty good.

@Minnesota Oli, and a few other hardy Vikings, could probably give you better info.

I learned to ski near Minneapolis,  at Buck Hill. Ditto, took my daughter (Florida girl) up there to learn to snowboard, from my parents' home on owatonna. It's not a great run, pretty much straight down, pretty much view of the interstate... cross country is more interesting. 

My hat's off to you. I gave away my skis and boots years ago. 

Great stuff SeaDawg.  Our plan once leaving Colorado is to figure a semi prudent route to Minnesota and will be working our way from bottom to top as my camping trip is in the Boundary Waters.  Yes, will certainly be looking to fat bike and x country ski along the way.  Open to suggestions o0n the particulars of the route.

Will check out the 511 app as we've never heard of it.  Will also look into the areas you outlined as well.

A couple of you folks have asked about the winter camping aspect of this trip.  Will be a shortish one, about 5-7 days, two of us, each pulling sleds (known as pulks) probably on snowshoes as the portages between lakes are too steep for skiing with a pulk.  It'll be in late january and we can expect temps down to -30f at night.  Will be staying in tents and likely not making fires as they are a smelly distraction that messes up high tech clothing like Goretex.  We'll move camp 2-3 times and lay over at nice spots.  Sounds crazy but I've beern doing it for 30 years so must be a sucker for punishment.  Will be leaving the state by early January so hopefully will avoid hideous ice storms you speak of.  When temps hover around freezing with precipitation it is much harder to deal with than solidly frigid.

[GAP]

18 hours ago, John E Davies said:

If I thought the temp was going to drop much below 0 degrees F, I would drain the entire system (long before the cold hit!) and blow it out with air, then do an antifreeze treatment, and then blow THAT out with air. The real worry with using only compressed air is that there will always be a little leftover water in the system, and it will accumulate at the low spots like the street side check valves. Doing it twice with AF in between should make the system freeze proof.

The folks who really get screwed don’t winterize nearly soon enough, and when they do try to do it - “OMG an arctic blast is here!” - all the drains are frozen solid and it is far too late.

This is all entirely theiretical for me 😬. The coldest my unheated but attached RV bay has every gotten is +42 degrees F.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Hey John,

I agree wholeheartedly with your concerns and warnings but, winter travel is the primary reason we bought the trailer.  It's undeniably less safe to drive in areas that get frequent snow and squirrely weather in the mountains makes for a concerning situation but such is our chosen lot in life.  We love winter adventures.  Having flexible plans, contingency plans, keeping an eye and ear on weather... is the best we can do.  We;\'ve used our 2021 E 2 down to zero and last season spent about 20 days entirely below freezing but have no idea what the bottom is.  Are working our tweaks to the heating system (of which there are many needed) and will be continuously monitoring temps in areas that carry water and are most vulnerable. 

Will be traveling with -50 AF, hand pump and our Viair 400 compressor.  If nightime temps seem to reduce interior compartment to a point where it is close to freezing, I'll dump my water and winterize.  Have a composting toilet so can get by for days with no water in the system. I've winterized the trailer multiple times but have never blown it out with air.  I do have the nozzle attachment and hose fitting to do so as well as a pressure control valve but we've read and have been told by the OTT shop to not do so.  To fill in some blanks can you share how you've safely blown out lines on your Oliver and why you suggest the redundancy of blowing out and winterizing with antifreeze twice?

Thanks much for your input

Gerry

[GAP]

18 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Hey from a Hawaii/Texas resident you can take this with a grain of salt.  However as a Mechanical Engineer there is one salient thought I can provide:

Suggest you VERIFY that the food grade antifreeze you use to winterize your OE2 is rated for at least -50 degrees F.  Some are, some are not.  Buyer beware. 

PS:  Amazingly the Super Tech is rated for -50F.  Surprised me.    

Good points Geronimo John.  I have always winterized with -20 AF but will be traveling with 3 gallons of the -50 stuff on this trip expecting to see temps south of zero.  We have a few bluetooth thermometers that stay in compartments that carry water lines and are the most vulnerable.  I keep a good eye on those and, after making some fairly big-boy tweaks to the heating system, am confident that we are good camping down to 0F.  If we get a chance to drive in those sort of conditions and/or expect night time dips well below that, I will probably preemptively dump my water and winterize.  I am a bit concerned that, given the frustratingly slow rate that water drains from the trailer, that the drainage nozzle may freeze but can use our Big Buddy back up heater or the shop light heat lamp we carry to help get over that hurdle.

[Geronimo John]

Back to my M.E. background:

• Winterize well before you hit freezing conditions (as stated above) would likely save you some grief.
• For anything below 20 degrees, I would also have some thick Reflectix  (R6 or R8) and figure out how to cover the windows and door on the inside.  When not in use, storage under your bed mattress would be an idea.

PS:  The below is not thick Reflectix.

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, GAP said:

I do have the nozzle attachment and hose fitting to do so as well as a pressure control valve but we've read and have been told by the OTT shop to not do so.  To fill in some blanks can you share how you've safely blown out lines on your Oliver and why you suggest the redundancy of blowing out and winterizing with antifreeze twice?

You need to keep the compressor at no more than 60 psi. It will not hurt anything. Using 120psi off a big compressor will rupture lines.

I suggested blowing out twice with AF between those two processes. As long as you trust your AF is rated to -50F, I think you would be safe with just the AF. The main thing is to try to eliminate any and all trapped pockets of water.

Do you plan to carry an extra propane bottle? You will go through the gas incredibly fast. Depending on the inside temperature….

My adapter is a Camco one, I drilled out the tiny hole to make it flow better. I see that you can now buy one like that, see below.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[GAP]

14 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Back to my M.E. background:

• Winterize well before you hit freezing conditions (as stated above) would likely save you some grief.
• For anything below 20 degrees, I would also have some thick Reflectix  (R6 or R8) and figure out how to cover the windows and door on the inside.  When not in use, storage under your bed mattress would be an idea.

PS:  The below is not thick Reflectix.

The thicker reflectix stuff is called "double bubble".  Available on Amazon.  We used it to make inserts for all the windows, except the one in the basthroom, with two layers of the reflectix sandwiched together and taped at the edges.  These are held in place by the window shades.  Built an open cell insert encased in reflectix to cover window in door (held in by screen door) and one to cover the Maxair vent when not open to vent out moisture.

As to winterizing, we chose an Oliver primarily based on it's claimed capacity as a 4 season trailer.  After a lot of testing we found that with water system on, the trailer is fine to mid 20s.  After a ton of tweaks, we are confident we should be good down to tens or a bit lower.  I am confidant that by carefully monitoring vulnerable water line reas, and comparing to outside temps, I should be able to quantify the line where I'll need to winterize vs when it is safe to run with water system on, even if I need to do so while while while camped.

[GAP]

Just now, GAP said:

The thicker reflectix stuff is called "double bubble".  Available on Amazon.  We used it to make inserts for all the windows, except the one in the basthroom, with two layers of the reflectix sandwiched together and taped at the edges.  These are held in place by the window shades.  Built an open cell insert encased in reflectix to cover window in door (held in by screen door) and one to cover the Maxair vent when not open to vent out moisture.

As to winterizing, we chose an Oliver primarily based on it's claimed capacity as a 4 season trailer.  After a lot of testing we found that with water system on, the trailer is fine to mid 20s.  After a ton of tweaks, we are confident we should be good down to tens or a bit lower.  I am confidant that by carefully monitoring vulnerable water line reas, and comparing to outside temps, I should be able to quantify the line where I'll need to winterize vs when it is safe to run with water system on, even if I need to do so while while while camped.

PS.  I think your suggestions on insulating windows and beds is spot on.  I also had already but a layer of the double bubble which lives under the beds.  Used the same material to insulate doors to garage and battery compartment.  We also unscrewed and pulled the exterior shower head into the basement and removed the hot/cold knobs so there was room to insulate the interior of that box. 

 

[GAP]

15 hours ago, John E Davies said:

You need to keep the compressor at no more than 60 psi. It will not hurt anything. Using 120psi off a big compressor will rupture lines.

I suggested blowing out twice with AF between those two processes. As long as you trust your AF is rated to -50F, I think you would be safe with just the AF. The main thing is to try to eliminate any and all trapped pockets of water.

Do you plan to carry an extra propane bottle? You will go through the gas incredibly fast. Depending on the inside temperature….

My adapter is a Camco one, I drilled out the tiny hole to make it flow better. I see that you can now buy one like that, see below.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Hey John,

Thanks for the clarifications.  Yes, we do travel with a 3rd 30lb propane tank. We found last winter that once temps got below 10f, we went through a 30lb tank every other day.  Will probably go through it faster this year because we've made tweaks to run warm air through the closet, basement and garage so will be heating more areas.  Also, if it seems safe, will be turning on the water system this season so the water heater will eat up some BTUs.

I am intrigued by your suggestion to blow out lines in addition to using antifreeze.  As I've never blown out before, I'll look for youTube procedure to do so.  I have a regulator which supposedly with limit pressure to 45lbs.  I do remember hearing that the danger was not to expose pressurized air to one of the systems - water heater or pump mabey - can't remember which.  Does this ring a bell and how do you workaround when you do so?

[GAP]

On 12/5/2022 at 7:30 PM, KenB said:

I live in the Mpls/StPaul area in Minnesota and have driven our LE II to Utah/Colorado and back in March (and in the summer).  Everything is weather dependent.  A pretty major winter storm moved across Nebraska when we made the trip west.  We dropped down to Kansas to avoid it.  It added a 1/2 day of additional travel.  I70 west of Denver closed for a few hours the next day due to an avalanche.  Not a big deal to sit out a road closer when towing a camper (you have food, water, heat, and a toilet), but it could have been bad depending on plans and reservations.  Don’t plan on covering summer travel distances in the winter.  I assumed as much on travel plans needing to be flexible and potentially slow.  We are doubtful of finding a window of clear weather that would allow us to travel through South Dakota.  Likely would be safer to travel through Nebraska and Iowa.  Is there advantage in heading down to Kansas?

The truck stops and rest areas are always jammed full with semi rigs between here and Denver.   You can’t depend on them being accessible for even an hour or two of rest.   Rigs are often parked up and down solid in the access lanes.  Great to know but scary.  Will have to check on options like Gander Mtn, Walmart, etc..

 It took five summers of traveling, but I’ve been to every state park in Minnesota.   While open for day visitors, most close the gates to the campgrounds around mid October and don’t open again until Spring.  The Mn DNR has a good website where you can make reservations.  Went to the site and there are more options than I would have assumed but not necessarily close to the highway.  Check it out before assuming they’re open.  Mn state parks require online reservations now.  Ranger stations will be unmanned in the winter, except MAYBE weekends.  Cell service isn’t guaranteed.  You may end up backtracking many miles to pick up a signal to claim a campsite even IF you find an open park.  The days of filling out a slip and dropping your fee in the box on the post are mostly over.  I know that many of the National Forest campgrounds around Ely are also closed during the winter.  It’s probably not worth it to plow out the snow, especially in the camping spurs.  The Army Corp of Engineers close their campgrounds too.  Even in early October I have most campgrounds to myself.  Call the ranger district for the area of the BWCA that you plan to visit, it’s pretty slow up there in the winter, they should have time to talk.   They’d have a list if there are any camping options.  In BWCA, my camping partner has a house that sits right where we would leave to go on our camping trip.  My wife and dog are staying in the camper while I'm in the backcountry.  Would be petrifying but, amazingly, our friend has a shop big enough to park the trailer in so they can be out of the snow/wind, with access to electricity and water.  Really couldn't be a better set up.

Unless you’re driving freeway, stick to daylight hours anyplace north of St Paul due to deer strikes.  Good point I wouldn't have thought of.  At least the rut will be over when you’ll be here.  Hwy 35 from Iowa to Duluth will be well taken care of.  Same for Hwys 61 and 53 north out of the Duluth area and towards the BWCA.  Expect side roads off of 35/53/61 to be slippery and ice covered.   It’ll be a pleasant surprise if they’re not.  I’ve never seen anyone use chains in Mn.  Studded tires are illegal for residents.  Everything east of Duluth over to Sault Ste. Marie, MI is pretty desolate.  You’ll probably take highway 2 east out of Superior, WI after heading south out of the BWCA.  It’s a two lane state highway.  Don’t assume gas stations will be open late.  Good to know  LOTS of deer on that road.  I haven’t been east of The Soo at all, so I can say what it looks past there.  I’ve driven my motorcycle around Lake Superior in the summer.   I would not want to tow my camper around it in the winter.  No driving up there after dark.  If a storm comes through, it can be hours before a tow truck is available.   They might have to come from a considerable distance and will be backed up.  Plan on spending the night in the ditch if you go off the road late in the day.  Cell service is spotty away from the freeway in MN, WI and in the UP.  It seems to switch between Verizon and AT&T depending where you are.   Daylight travel only and limited to good weather windows wherever possible.

If I was making the trip, I’d lean heavily on our Harvest Host subscription.   We do Boondocker but, given your suggestion, may try out HH  It’s more likely a business would have a place for you to park compared to public camping facilities.  

Hope this helps.  It can get VERY cold.  I used to live in Duluth.  It can be below 0° for weeks, especially as you go north.

Let me know if you need anything else.  Good Luck and be flexible.  
 

Ken,

Fantastically useful info.  Thanks on that.  My responses and thoughts in bold in body of your post above.

[Geronimo John]

On 12/6/2022 at 1:45 PM, GAP said:

Are working our tweaks to the heating system (of which there are many needed) and will be continuously monitoring temps in areas that carry water and are most vulnerable. 

When you run into that bad weather and have some time on your hands, it would really cool (SIC) for you to document your extreme cold problems and remedies.  Frankly I bet OTT would be chomping at the bit to create a "Cold Winter Package" based upon your excellent research and development efforts.  Well done!

[SeaDawg]

Well, you have a friend in Ely, with indoor storage for the Ollie. That's awesome.  Since he lives there, he knows the typical weather (cold to brutally cold in January) so that's awesome,  too .

Guaranteed beautiful photos if you get there, and survive the trip. You'll obviously need great tech clothing, and super sleeping bags, if you'recamping without heat/fire. 

Hat's off . A number of hardy individuals do this every Minnesota winter. Take a bunch of photos, and share, later. (We don't expect sharing in the bwca. Gps phone/emergency signal recommended. ) Take extra fuel and meds in case of a storm leaving you stranded for a bit, and have fun .

I know it's your cup of tea, not mine, but I do envy your experience. I learned to hate tent camping with snow, in much milder temps. I have my fingers crossed for good weather for you.