Which breakers power down the whole trailer

[Kansa]

I would like to power down the entire trailer 2022  LE2. or shut off the co2 lap alarm while I work on some smelly stuff I am not on short power but have solar on with 4 AGMs.. Any suggustions

 

[Geronimo John]

Assuming your not going to exceed the VOC Lower Explosion Limit or fall below the Upper Explosion Limit:

My suggestion would be to install a shutoff switch for the CO / Propane alarm.  John D. has a nice post about doing this in a professional manner.

CJ

[John E Davies]

Here is the switch thread.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5330-how-to-propane-co-detector-on-off-power-switch/

Or an easier fix is to remove your rear CO/ Smoke detector entirely, and tape over the openings on the propane detector under the dinette. If it can’t “breathe” it won’t start squawking.

BTW the only way to completely power down the trailer is to disconnect the battery cables or install a battery master cutoff switch.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Kansa]

Thanks great info

[KenB]

I'm in the middle of upgrading from four 6V AGM batteries to three Battle Born lithium batteries and have learned quite a bit about the electrical system on our Elite II this past week.  On my 2018 there isn't a master electrical cut off switch.  I'm installing one as part of the lithium upgrade.  Disconnecting the battery cables will power down the trailer, but the lines from the solar controller to the battery will still be hot, at least on my 2018.  There is a dedicated circuit breaker for the solar, it's just not the type that you can manually disconnect/reset, so you can't easily disable the solar charging with it.  If you don't understand this statement completely, please don't start disconnecting battery terminals.  I don't know what an accidental dead short to the live solar leads would do to the system, nothing good I'm sure.

If you just want to kill power to the propane detector under the dinette, there is a 1 amp fuse under the street side bunk on a 2018 in the wire that leads to the propane detector.  The wire for it comes off of the hot side of the circuit breaker that is also under that bunk.  The propane detector is wired direct to the battery and is always hot.  The only way to cut power to the propane detector on mine is to pull that fuse under the street side bunk.

Though finding and pulling the 1 amp fuse isn't a big deal, I like John's idea of just covering up the openings on the propane detector best and not messing with the electrical.

HTH, Ken

[Geronimo John]

8 hours ago, John E Davies said:

BTW the only way to completely power down the trailer is to disconnect the battery cables or install a battery master cutoff switch.

Use of the word COMPLETELY POWER down is a foot stomper.  Just killing the master switch (if you have one) still has power going into the batteries from several sources. Such power transfers could ignite vapors as I indicated above depending upon their concentration relative to the LEL and UEL's.

SO, in addition to not being on shore power and shutting off the Master Switch:  You would also need to disconnect from your  solar panels (Both installed and portable), your TV 7-Pin, and of course your 12/12 DC to DC Charging System if you have one.    And anything else coming into Ollie's hull that could cause power transfer or a spark.  Such as a battery powered mosquito zapper, Etc.)

Me, I would either move the smelly stuff out of Ollie or turn on the Max Fan and open windows.  The odds of any of the above causing an explosion is all dependent upon the level of concentration of vapors.  The odds of Olfactory Offense is only a function of dilution.  However there are a few soft surfaces in Ollie that will absorb smells only to let them free later for more enjoyment.  

GJ