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HOW TO: Propane/ CO Detector On/ Off power switch


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The detector uses a little bit of power, about 0.05 amps, even when everything else is turned off. Normally that isn't a worry, unless you want to keep the batteries connected long term and you are not plugged into shore power. A little drain over many months can flatten a battery bank. Plus it is nice to be able to silence a nuisance alarm or a failed unit by switching it off rather than locating and pulling its fuse (which is at the 12 volt DC bus under the rear street side bed). Here is mine, the location WILL vary because I moved mine to the back a foot, but the wire comes off the manual reset circuit breaker. I added the labels. The Oliver wire does have a factory installed label "1 amp" but it doesn't identify the purpose of the wire!

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Remove the fuse or disconnect the batteries! Remove the unit (4 screws) and cut the wires. Make a little bracket from 6061 T6 2" x 2" x 1/8" aluminum angle, and secure it to the compartment wall with 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tape. Epoxy would also work fine.

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The switch is a simple, non-LED On/Off SPST switch that matches the other Ollie switches. It requires a 0.800" hole, which can be made with a step drill AKA Uni-Bit.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-91616.html

Any type of switch will work because it is not normally visible. It is similar to this illuminated model:

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I used the existing Red for positive and Black for ground detector wires. The factory harness has a Blue positive and Yellow ground.

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Unplug the switch. Splice the new harness into the old one, working outside the compartment (under the table). I was able to discard two feet of extra wires. Install the detector body into its hole. Feed the switch wires through the round hole and mount the switch (it presses in with two retaining clips). Note that it has a little plastic "key" under the lip, that needs a matching notch in the hole, or else just file off the key entirely.

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Cover the wires with plastic split loom and secure them with cable ties so that they don't flop around.

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The switch could be located anywhere, but this spot makes it quite simple. A location on the outside of the compartment would work, but it would be possible to turn it off by mistake, which could be dangerous or fatal. Put it somewhere out of the normal traffic flow, and not in a storage compartment where loose gear could bump it! You still need to check the unit for proper operation before each trip and then weekly.

Finally, adding a switch violates the RV build codes! Do this mod only if you fully understand its benefits and its potential risks. Because of my extensive mods, I added a BIG information placard under that access cover, it includes information on the Propane  Detector switch. Something similar to the last paragraph might be prudent.

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John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

 

Edited by John E Davies
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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Posted (edited)

Added an additional warning placard and also an orange streamer (surveyors tape) that acts as a reminder. It is tied inside to a wire bundle. When the switch is turned on, the flag goes inside the compartment until the next time it is switched off. The placard is sideways so it can be read when you poke your head under the table.

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FYI, I also added a flag at the back, for the Redarc DC to DC charger, for when I have it disconnected by manually tripping the circuit breaker (another phantom drain).

Aviation nerds recognize these streamers , they save lives: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remove_before_flight

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies
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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Very nice job.

I need to get some of those wire tags.

I've been tracing wires like crazy trying to figure out how Oliver hooked things up as I prepare to swap out my existing factory installed Xantrex ProWatt Inverter for a new Xantrex XC2000 Pro Inverter Charger and new Lithiums.

Scratching my head as many of the wiring diagrams are missing...for example, I don't have a wiring diagram at ALL for the 2000W ProWatt Inverter circuit.

The AC power input to the ProWatt comes from the AC breaker panel and connects through an auto switch in front of the ProWatt 2000.
The ProWatt AC inverter output from the auto switch runs forward and connects to the GFCI Outlet that is under the front dinette seat.
That circuit loops all the way around the trailer and includes the microwave, fridge and all the outlets, and ends up connected
back at a 20A AC breaker in the PD4000 distribution panel.


Craig

 

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2019 Elite II (Hull 505 - Galway Girl - August 7, 2019 Delivery) 
Tow Vehicle: 2021 F350 King Ranch, FX4, MaxTow Package, 10 Speed, 3.55 Rear Axle
BLOG:  https://4-ever-hitched.com

 

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Label ties: Nylon Marker Cable Ties, 250pcs 6 Inch

I paid $10, I do not know what happened to that seller. Do some searching for a good price...., A brand NEW Sharpie Fine Point pen (not the Ultra Fine) works great to mark them - don’t use a worn one with smooshed tip, that is a mess.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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I sometimes use surveyor's  tape (flagging tape) to mark areas. It's cheap. Maybe, 2 cents a foot, or less.

 

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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