Kansa

We will get the trailer moved so we can get to the outlet tomorrow will update if that works Thank you for all your input..

Found one outlet that is correct The others all no ground.

I will see if I have any grounded outlets outside😆

I checked the outlets. This afternoon. Open ground older house electrician put new outlets in for mom. Probably wasn’t a ground wire in the old outlet…

A120 gfi on the garage it is the same source I used to plug in my old trailer I also use it to plug in my truck engine heater but I would not try both at the same time

Could use some advice on the 120. I have tried to hook up to 120 one time before last winter and when I did the Ollie made popping noises so I unhooked it and went on solar last winter I was using a Marinco adapter and the 120 extension that I used on my previous trailer a jayco. with this cold this year I need 120 to run furnace my antifreeze in the toilet bowl froze never had a problem with the extension it was long roughly 75 foot heavy gauge.. on my old trailer my power cord was hard wired and I had no solar I plugged my adapter into the rv 30 amp cord then the extension … should I try to use the 30 amp cord to the Ollie then adapter to a shorter 120 extension I have. and pray the popping noise doesn’t happen or use the solar shut down and try it my inverter is always in the off I have AGMs I would drive it to a campground for a few days but I live on a hiway and they have plowed and blocked the drive with ice

Here is a update I sent my pic from the upper outside vent to service they wrote back my Ollie is a newer model… (My service thicket included my year) and they don’t use the strap anymore. Now my instructions are to pull it out and remove the 2 screws that are in the side of the trim ring. Then put the micro in with the new trim ring ( not anchored to anything) and secure with the 4 screws in the front) Sooo I will be trying the leveling and shoring up the extra space ideas from this forum to try to keep it from bouncing around… thanks for the ideas 🤞

I have this broken frame issue with my 22 E2 I have received my trim piece from the factory and they sent instructions to install Problem is the instructions say to put a metal strap on one corner of the microwave then drill a hole in the fiberglass in the back of the fiberglass from the fridge vent side. Thats 1 screw in the microwave and 1 screw in the fiberglass I am thinking that’s not very secure. Below is a photo of their solution the picture I got of the fridge vent location does not match my set up🙁 I really would like to know what type of 3/4 foam sheets did you use for this issue. I will be doing the project this weekend.

I have tried to use my adapter (Marinco) and an extension cord and I get a popping sound inside the trailer I have 4. 6v AGMs is that the issue. I never had a problem with plugging in my old Jayco trailer

An update on how this is going ...on my cockeyed back window got a service ticket Jason said they already reject about 50% of them then Mike from Oliver sent me info from Lippert here is what Lippert want. Photos of the concern Photos of the complete window from inside and outside of the coach Photo of the Lippert etching White Window id tag with the RPO or variant number clearly visable Video of cascade water test clearly showing where water is leaking inside/defect.

I have a 12v inflator with the battery clips for power..... is it possible to hook up to the 6v agm 4 battery setup on the E2 (2022) ....unfortunatly the truck batteries require me to use a med step ladder to reach them. 🤣

Thank you for your input everyone! I really appreciate your input and help

In this photo the circled part is the frame seam with the messy chaulking also the arrows point to the gaps that show how crooked it was put together compare the gaps between left and right on top then left and right at the bottom… on the far bottom seam You can see the weep hole on the right. On the left side I can barely get a small pipe cleaner to it….

I asked about the sealant via a email about another ticket I am working n about the rear window Oliver’s reply was they don’t manufacture the windows and they don’t know what sealant it is…… This is the issue I have inthe back window that I have the ticket on…( pic below) they told me they will “look at it “ when I bring it down in Sept for its first service.. the other thing about the back window is it is kinda cock eyed and doesn’t line up. 🙁 We got it in Oct and winterized just now getting it dewinterize and doing this stuff. this is their caulking I will try to clean it up this weekend

Does anyone know what kind of sealant they use for the bead of sealent on the windows it is black and very rubbery several corners on mine are getting gaps..

patriot I am interested in your Saran Wrap solution which side are you applying the wrap on inside or outside and do you cover the entire side or just the bottom half. Do you use tape to secure it etc

Thanks great info

I would like to power down the entire trailer 2022 LE2. or shut off the co2 lap alarm while I work on some smelly stuff I am not on short power but have solar on with 4 AGMs.. Any suggustions

I have submitted a ticket to Oliver .I appreciate all of your input. I loved over the issue again today and noticed that further down the pipe the factory installed a furnco in the middle of the pipe wondering why. Guessing they had to short of a piece and decide to use it anyway. So I have just a bit over 1/4 inch of pipe to glue into the valve will that be enough and should I check what is under the furnco in the middle of the pipe. You can see that in this extended view.

Following this thread right now My issue isn’t the valve but the pipe leading to it I just noticed mine isn’t connected and doesn’t look like it was ever sealed… what should I use to glue this pipe on I am assuming that should have been done at factory but not sure.

Thanks that was what I was thinking glad you confirmed that for me.

Thanks for replying I am keeping it warm because I am working on projects in it. keeping it warm only part time. Having solar into the system is new to me so learning a lot. But am excited about having the options One question on running the furnace and using solar, does the inverter need to be turned on for running the blower or can it operate from battery only. And if that is either which would be less work for the battery bank. Thank you again for your help

So.. it got to -2 last night in the Ollie basement… glad I winterized but need some info I am new to using solar. My Ollie is in the drive and the sun is keeping the batteries up great so far. I ran a space heater this morning using the inverter. But very cold and cloudy is coming so with my old rv I would just plug into the 120 at the house and run a space heater on 40 during the evenings. We never used our furnace when winterized, don’t know if that is a safety issue or not… So if I plug in our Ollie to the house 120 I know The solar will be bypassed and the inverter will be off and I can use my space heater on shore power. What if I decide to run my furnace instead I know it will run off the 120. but if I go with the batteries instead of plugging into 120 will I need the inverter on and how much will that drain my batteries 4AGMs overnight and into the next day with partly cloudy skis and temps into the teens. And is it ok to run the furnace with the camper winterized.. Thanks for any idea or advice..

I had one of these telescoping ladders I bought years ago for my jayco. It was one of the original brands it gave me great service. BUT I would not use it without my ground crew for safety reasons someone had to hold it. The reason they stop working is dirt build up inside. Mine was ruined by the masons that worked on my chimney the mortar dust from tuck pointing got in it and it never worked safely after that

Finally We worked it through thank you for all your help…