All Activity

@Snackchaser and @jd1923 Appreciate your constructive comments. Looking forward to wiring testing the unit Monday! 😎

Our old Furrion jumbo heads sure are ugly! Your new iRV62 looks sooooo much better, even with the large faceplate which has a clean look! Excellent work cutting out the plastic sheet plus the aluminum sheet for added strength. The wiring should be the easy part. You're 90% there! 😎

I appreciate that. I have opened a ticket and sent a copy of the video to Mike Sharpe. I checked and there are a couple of Truma authorized service centers near where we are (Buffalo/Rochester area). Thanks for weighing in on a Saturday night. Bob

I’m sorry that this is happening and during a weekend to boot. Open a service ticket and see if you can send that video. In any event you’ll have to find an authorized Truma service facility to replace your unit. Maybe get the unit replaced now and take a chance on getting reimbursed after the repair?

Oliver has told me repeatedly that my water heater was not part of the recall. I have had numerous issues but this one is the most serious.

Looks like the burner has fallen apart. I thought that was an ongoing recall for this unfortunately all to common issue. I believe Truma says in this case not to use the water heater. Hopefully someone who has a Truma and has gone through the recall process can help.

IMG_3472.mov Almost hate to post this video, but I am in week 1 of a 4 week loop and just encountered a major issue with the truma. The video speaks for itself. Any thoughts?

During troubleshooting I did raise the nose. I probably exacerbated the problem! Best, Mark

Yes👍

@rideandfly Nice work! That's some clever engineering!

It you look in the closet, there is a horizontal section of vent pipe about three feet long. If the trailer was parked with the nose up, that section of horizontal pipe would fill with water if the vent cap was off, or water was sprayed up under the cap. That's the only reasonable scenario that would cause blockage of the vent and result in slow drainage. Seems like dropping the nose back down would drain that standing water better than going on the roof with a vacuum. 😁 Us retired folks got to be carful on ladders! Cheers! Geoff

Our original Furrion DV1200 failed a few years ago, I found an old stock Furrion DV1100 that was the same size and plug/play unit that only lasted a few more years. Our Original Furrion unit was much larger than Snackchaser's original Furrion unit. Like JD indicated the old Furrion cutout is large enough for an addition cabinet. Decided to use a iRV62 stereo/DVD/CD player from Amazon like Snackchaser. Cut out a large 11"X7"X1/8" black plastic sheet from Amazon to cover the old Furrion cutout. Also cut out a 11"X7"X1/16" aluminum 6061 sheet from Amazon to add strength to the plastic mounting plate. Sandwiched the aluminum sheet between the plastic sheet and fiberglass hull with the iRV62 bolted directly through the plastic sheet & aluminum sheets. Furrion unit: iRV62 with plastic & aluminum sheets: iRV unit with backing plate on right next to old Furrion unit: iRV62 installed today: Plan to wire & test on Monday.

@dkeen, you're correct about using the tester. With the black probe on the ground bus, check for voltage with red probe on both sides of the fuse - with the fuse in place. There should be power on both sides of fuse. But that is probably not the problem if you already confirmed continuity through the fuse. If the fuse LED does not light with the switch on, it means that there is an open somewhere in the pump circuit. Probably a spade off one of the switches, or bad connection somewhere. Here are some easy checks: There should be a wire connected at the back of the panel directly behind the pump fuse. Count fuses from the top down to the pump fuse, and count same number of spade terminals from top down in the back — that will be the pump circuit and the easiest connection to check first. Just verify that the wire hasn’t pulled off the spade. Look at the pump wire connections next, pull on the wires to make sure they are properly spliced together. Least probable- You can slip your test probe into the pump butt-splices and check for volts to ground. Check all the pump wires with switch in both positions. !2 volts on any of these wires means you're getting voltage to the pump. If you have voltage, then the pressure switch is suspect. It should be normally closed. If it failed in the open position, then the pump and fuse indicator won’t work. If you haven’t found it at this point, then it gets more complicated and probably beyond typical DIY skills. The switches are 3-way, wired with the power going to one switch and the switch leg going to the other, with travelers in-between. The bath switch requires removal of the shelf which is a project on its own. This is further complicated by an in-line relay that handles full pump current so that the switches don’t have to. Sounds like your going to Oliver anyway, so its probably best to have them fix it. Even a seasoned RV repair guy would spend a good amount of time finding the problem. Good luck, Geoff

Ok, when using this method of sanitizing you should place the valves in the "normal" configuration. Concerning the water heater, was the water heater power switch (access from outside of the trailer on the water heater itself) in the 'on' position ( either up or down ). Of course don't try this when you're sanitizing ( water heater water inlet valve should be closed during sanitizing ).

Difficult to find a taller bracket spread 2 3/4" (70mm). But this item gave me an easy quick fix. Brought the light up 1 1/4" taller and no more shadow. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DT7221NZ/?th=1

IF you are worried about heat on your trip - you can use a Mr. Heater "Buddy" heater like THIS ONE. For over 20 years I've used one of these since they do not require electric and are reasonably good on propane usage. These heaters also come with CO and overall O2 sensors with automatic shutoff. Good luck and have fun on your trip! Bill p.s. These heaters are available at many WalMart's and Tractor Supply.

I apologize for not posting a resolution sooner. I changed the inverter circuit breaker for new. Hard to find. Home Depot website only. Charging issue resolved. My theory is a washboard road in and out of 11 Mile Reservoir State Park CO. Who knows?! Thank you for all your knowledge. Mark

Having shower pan backup and slow draining with water from bathroom sink, lots of gurgling through kitchen sink, slow draining with grey valve CLOSED. Normal draining when grey valve OPEN. I read this post which made me remember I had used a power washer during washing the day prior. Hooked up shop Vac to roof vent for 5 min. Same result of about half gallon of water. Seems to have solved the issue. Thanks for posting!

Dud, you are starting to get above my electrical knowledge which is easy to do😉. I assume I should set to 20V DC, hold black probe to ground bus, then red probe to each side of the fuse with the switch on?

Snackchasser - Pulled the fuse and turned the pump on and no red light in the fuse box. I did check wiring on the Seelevel, but not under sink as that panel is caulked shut . Golfnut - The trailer is new and this is the first time I am trying to use the pump so as far as I know it has never worked. Tom - I have never used the pump (new trailer). I poured 1/4 cup bleach into the end of the hose and connected it to the fresh water fill. Filled the tank to 100% and water was draining out in front of tire, changed the valves to the boondocking configuration, turned on the pump and nothing worked. The lines are not pressurized as nothing comes out of the faucets. The hot water heater was working when I picked the trailer up last week. Shame on me for not checking the heater at Oliver, but it was over 90 degrees in Hohenwald. Headed to the mountains on Monday and the lows are in the 40's so I thought I would learn how to turn on the heater before I left home and it did not work. There is a W255H code Oliver is helping me trouble shoot. When we shut everything down and brought back up in order, then had the Truma control panel relearn the connected devices it could not find the furnace or hot water heater. They think it is a communication error, bad splitter, or a bad CP. All the data cable connections are secure and the wiring plugs are all connected. Thanks for trying to help! Let me know if you have any other ideas. We still plan to go on the trip, will just have to haul water, and bring extra blankets.

6 or 7 consecutive for Wyoming. This will be number 21 for consecutive years in either Wyoming, Montana, Idaho or Colorado. Ya just don't know where the "stupid" fish are located! 😉 Bill

Many of us envy your annual trip, at least I do! But it's been proven, I just cannot fish! 🤣 How many consecutive Wyoming fishing trips will it be, Bill? (this year included)

Just for clarity, did you begin the sanitation process by configuring the valves for boon docking mode and pumping the bleach solution into the fresh tank (using the water pump), and did that work? ....Then filling the fresh tank from the fresh tank fill inlet, and configuring the valves for normal mode? ...And now the pump does not work? I'm also curious about why your water heater and furnace aren't working, when did you discover that? Did all of these issues happen around the same time?

If OLIVER hasnt change the wire color , its a purple wire from the fuse panel..if you can trace in back from there.. i have an Elite 1. The wire was loose from a relay plug back by the battery box under the bed, street side.. Has the pump ever worked? Good luck and stay safe out there..

The pump fuse clearly has power because it's connected to the same bus as the other working fuses. That red LED blown fuse indicator will only light when there is a load on the circuit. If the circuit is open, say the pump switch is off, or the pump/switches became disconnected, then there is no load and the LED stays off. With the DC panel fuse pulled out, try the switching the pump on to see the LED lights. That will tell you if the is an open connection somewhere in the circuit. Remember the circuit includes both the hot wire and ground. It's most likely that an open connection would be at the pump, either one of the the switches, or possibly at the back of the DC panel where the pump circuit connects to the fuse. Least likely that it's a broken wire, bad pump, or open ground. I believe the pumps ground goes directly to the main ground bus, it does not go to the switches, although the switches will have ground potential through the pump motor windings. It's possible that the connections to the bathroom switch have come off, but it sounds like you might have checked that already. You're on the right track thinking it's an electrical problem because the green light does not work. However, I would recheck your valve lineup because it sounds like you're trying to draw water in through the boondocking connection. It is possible that the pump is pressurized and the pressure switch is open preventing the pump from running further. . Good luck and let s know what you find. Geoff