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Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Will check further report back.

I’d like to hear more about what kind (brand, model) was installed From Hank’s FB post: ”Camping Northern Florida. 31F this morning and a very comfortable 76F inside. A small space heater on the low setting only. 12VDC warming blankets on the beds. Using only 11 amps shore power. Basement temperature is holding at 66F. Two small 12VDC fans, one port and one stbd side keep a gentle air flow circulating thru the basement. With the bathroom vanity port open, cabin air is flowing into the basement and returning thru the return grill below the bed. The basement partitions have been removed and a 700W Xtreme heater is mounted inside (auto on at 43F off at 55F) for very cold conditions. Last week camping at 14F the Xtreme heater did come on to maintain a temperature well above freezing in the basement while we were gone.” If you are a member of the Oliver Owners of America facebook group, look up member Hank White, and scroll through his group posts. This one was from January 2025, with several photo. Hank has done a *lot* of cool modifications, and having seen them in person, I’ve added several to my list to things to do.

Hmmm.....I wonder if his trailer was bought from a dealer or he possibly bought it from a private owner.

Brand new owner discovered Chinese made tires on his new trailer. Castle Rock Tires. Oliver has stated they are installing Goodyear Endurance 15", 10-ply "E" Rated tires. So how does a Chinese tire end up on a brand new Oliver trailer? Chinese tires have resulted in hundreds of blowouts on stock built trailers where everything is cheap. This is strange. I told him he needed to reach out to Oliver asap.

I'd say, this is not such a good idea. Go back to your post from last year and review Geoff's suggestion @Snackchaser. Time to fix the issue vs. adding a checklist item. Not sure re the Norcold fridge controls, but on our Dometic when in LP mode it will stay there by design. When you select "Auto" it will switch to AC if available, or DC when not plugged in.

Good work Bill, and you made GJ's day! I have this as part of our "2016 Elite II Owners Manual" PDF, but every time a fellow forum member posts an electronic PDF file, a manual or schematic, that relates to our hull, I download it and save electronic copy. I prefer using PDF files. Not just for the absence of carrying the big basket of paper, but for ease and speed of search. When GJ wrote his model # in the title of this post, I search my 557-page PDF copy of the Oliver manual for keyword "2454" and in 2 seconds it jumped to page 151 where the Dometic fridge manual starts in this long file. I use the Ctrl-F hotkeys, type a keyword, and there it is. No time taken to review the Table of Contents, search an index in the back pages or thumb through paper. This search capability and other tools we have today are so useful! I show my Project Management Professional (PMP) students this, in every class I teach, as they must navigate through multiple PMI standards, 1000s of pages of content they could see on their PMP Exam. I use the Ctrl-F search function several times a day for anything I'm looking for, searching the content of web pages, doing Oliver research and searching the shop manuals for the many cars, trucks, bikes and appliances we own. It's so handy! 😎 You sure have your files well-organized though, and most people still prefer paper copy. The young professionals in my classes are strongly against printing long files for sustainability concerns, like the 290-page slide deck we use, at 2 slides per page, OMG it's a lot! 🤣

In just a routine look under the aft dinette seat, I discovered the battery charger plug to be halfway unplugged yet again. Two thoughts: 1. Add checking this to a periodic maintenance checklist. 2. It’s about time for my fridge to stop working in A/C…

I guess we could do that - we have a set of ten of those levelers and I use my LevelMate Pro + to maneuver into site where I rarely need more than two of them. Just sounds like a bit of a pain. Then again, I’ve been known to chock the wheels and unhitch to raise the nose of the trailer at some dump stations.

That beats stepping on them in bare feet in the middle of the night! 😂

@Geronimo John and of course, you have the tank diverter valve pointing at the full tank. When these crossover valves switch from the empty side to the full side its secondary pressure is lower.

We also drive our truck onto Legos when we hit a dump station.

@Geronimo JohnI hope that has the answers that you are looking for. When I brought hull 313 home in March 2018 I crawled all over it taking pictures of data plates on equipment with model numbers and serial numbers. I then went online and found manuals (owner’s, installation, service, parts, whatever I could find) for the model and serial numbers that were on our Oliver. Some of the manuals on the Oliver site aren’t the correct manual for the model and serial number range of the equipment used in our Oliver. I then printed out the manuals and put them in 3-ring binders that I carry in a tote that fits under the front dinette seat. I know it’s bulky and isn’t as convenient as a link on a phone but I can open a manual and look at it and make notes while I’m working on something. Bill

GOLDEN! Many Thanks! Will digest it this afternoon. 🙂 GJ Owners: Suggest saving this document if you have an older frig.

@Geronimo Johnsee if you can find any answers in this service manual https://fourwheelcampers.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf I had trouble getting my RM2454 to cool in Ashland VA last week after working fine for 3 weeks. It was just too hot there at 97F for the absorption cycle to work well. I temporarily added a double bladed window fan from Lowes. Still wouldn’t work even at night. Turns out that too much air movement is as bad as not enough. I turned the temporary fan off and the refrigerator started working again. Bill

I have a manual for model 709 and 709-PH. The battery level displayed is determined by the voltage supplying the SeeLevel panel. As others have said see if it’s getting power. You said the tech plugged a new panel in and it was dead also. I can’t believe that the tech didn’t also check the fuses as that would have taken a few minutes. I would check the voltage going into the panel and work back from there This schematic is for 2018 LEII hull 313 so it might not be the same for your hull Bill

JD: Correct on both. Still in Denver and it always works perfectly for months up at King Mountain where we basecamp at 5,300. I think that well over that elevation we would need the other smaller orifice to reduce gas flow due to lack of O2 higher up. Not the case with ours in Denver now. Currently, we don't get anywhere near the gas flow to even heat the ammonia hot enough to flash to cool. Hopefully one of the owners can respond with info about the gas valve voltage and possible test procedure for it. It's a long shot, but worth a try. I have heard others have had mother board issues, but never heard of the refer gas valve going south. Along the gas thread: I'm also wondering if there is a screen that keeps trash from tank insides or junk from bad propane that could clog or plug the oriface? If so, where would it be located? GJ

Spray cleaner of your choice (Fantastik, 409, etc) and an old toothbrush - then a few paper towels. We keep a “Dustbuster” in the trailer for routine cleanups. Keeps the grit buildup to a minimum. A long-term fix -might- be to fill that awkward gap with some kind of caulk. That way there’d be no gap to collect crud. I’d be very careful with acetone or any petroleum or solvent based liquids. I think you’d risk eating away at the flooring adhesive or even the flooring itself.

I believe we have the same model Dometic fridge. Ours has worked fine several times camping in CO outside of Telluride and on the White Mountains in AZ, both above 9K ft. Also, it reads like GJ is still in Denver just over 5K ft. GJ, you're getting the 3 clicks, so all electrical controls are fine. You certainly have a gas issue. I have no experience there but believe your "analysis and investigate" lists are right on. Best wishes, JD

Sounds like altitude to me. Gas appliances often need a different orifice to work at higher altitudes. You might be able to get a high altitude one at a local RV repair shop.

I’d like to hear more about what kind (brand, model) was installed - as our floor is typically ice-cold. Though I assume it’s due to the cold air infiltration, it could be just from the frigid air blowing in from the furnace ducts and return grille. A radiant floor heat would be a first-class upgrade to the Ollie.

June and I are wrapping up a family wedding week in Denver. Next we will be heading out to the high country for some boondocking. Will for sure need our Dometic RM 2454 refrigerator for a couple of weeks. Could use some guidance: WHAT I THINK I KNOW o Refrigerator works normally on 12 Volt power supply. o Refrigerator works normally on 120 Volt . o Refrigerator does not work on propane regardless of outside temperature. It seems to hover a bit above 60 degrees in the main area of the unit when using gas mode. Likely about what ambient has been inside our Ollie due to nighttime cooling temps. WHAT I HAVE OBSERVED o The thermistor that activates cooling is operating normally only when using 120 and 12 Volt power. o Control board appears to be operating normally for all power sources though. o When switched to gas, the Control Board is trying to strike. Sends three strikes and then seems happy. o The striker appears to be igniting a dribble of gas at the propane orifice, however, it is less than 5% of what is necessary for heating the absorption unit. ANALYSIS: Leads me to believe that I have a gas problem. Ok, I set myself up for that one...... Thinking it is likely either: o A 95% plugged gas orifice. o A defective gas control valve. o A safety thermistor that would shut off gas flow if no flame is sensed. INVESTIGATE: Thinking I should: o Pull the gas orifice and see if clear. If contaminated, clean in a non-destructive manner. o Pull the gas tube after the orifice to see if any issues there. o Test the gas control valve and mother board: . Is it possible to spoof the main control valve with voltage to determine if it’s operational? If yes, what voltage should I see from the mother board? Can I spoof it to see if it is functional or if the mother board is weak? o Remove gas tube downstream of orifice and look for mud daubers or other such inclusions. o Does the igniter/striker also act as a safety to shut off gas flow if the strike process is not successful? If not how is that safety feature accomplised? Any thoughts, suggestions, recommendations or part numbers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Geronimo John

I believe you hit on it here! New issue often comes from last service. I can't believe you were there and OTT Service would not fix an issue they likely created in your scheduled service one business day before! They tried a "new monitor panel." Did they first check the fuse? You have a hull a little older than ours but maybe this circuit is wired the same. Our DC panel has a fuse titled "Water Heater Tank Monitor" (see pic DC fuse #7). Perhaps we're getting closer now! 😎 This 15A fuse might be blown. If so, your HWH would not have 12V to fire up on LP. If you have hot water, I'll bet they pick up 12V from the HWH wiring and if so, there would be an inline fuse between there and the SeeLevel system. It's really bad electrical practice to wire inline fuses at random locations in the basement! RV manufacturers do this often and when I find fuses around the Oliver basement, I move them to a new +bus I wired under the rear dinette seat, so I know where they are, have easy access and never have to reach down under again! Look around for an inline fuse, starting at the HWH then going towards the tank readers or the SeeLevel panel. Hope you find it quickly!

Hey Steve, I’d read here about a couple of owners adding a recirculating system to have hot water available quickly upon opening the tap. I’m not sure that would be “simple” compared to installing a small in-line point of use water heater. Of course, in the bathroom, I’d have to run 110vac there - but less work and hardware than a recirculation system. As for the cold air “leak” (more like an open window…) mine occurs with the MaxxFan closed - and the air coming in the furnace vents and return grill is a breeze. I Mentioned in a previous post that the whole aft starboard corner of the trailer are ice cold with associated condensation problems. I didn’t think burning more propane was a practical or efficient solution to an obvious air infiltration problem. I haven’t sleuthed it out yet - but the door hinge area is a prime suspect - as the door weatherstrip goes -under- the screen door hinges. I’m also wondering if the (Domentic) A/C has a fresh air exchange that can’t be switched on or off like some units have.

Several of us have added a simple recirculating valve to the bathroom hot water. Add a diverter in the hot water feed line under the bathroom vanity, with the return line going to a T in the tank fill line. Some of us have also added a separate shower mixer while under there. I too have a crazy amount of cold air coming in through the hot air return under the curb side bed when not using the furnace. I attribute it to having the roof vent open to keep moisture down, hot air rising, and drawing in cold air somewhere. Hank White removed most of the basement partitions, added a fixed 110V heater under the nightstand, and then a circulating fan under each bed, one facing aft and the other forward. He says an added benefit is that this also heats the floor a bit.

We’re wrapping up a 7 month camping trip that included some higher elevations and temps down to high teens in NM, Utah, Nevada. We used a plain old “milk house heater” that Ace or pretty much any hardware store carries. It says it’s 1500 watts. I haven’t tracked down the major air leak at the rear curbside of our LE2 - that’s a project for December. But suffice it to say that with the amount of cold air that blows in the furnace outlets - the “leak” is serious. In cold weather and trying to keep the thermostat at 68 - we’ve gone through a 20# tank of propane in just two or three days - so electric heat is a huge savings as we rarely boondock. Im actually going to be looking for an electric furnace or duct heater to have a more elegant option than the space heater. I’m also looking into adding one or more electric point if use water heaters - as the having the propane water heater located 15 feet from the bathroom sink is an epic engineering fail.