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Scanned the recall posts, not sure of exactly the part your referring to but searching I did find that Oliver had their own NHTSA recall due to this, which means they have to pay the costs (see below) I was curious so I did a little digging. Apparently (this could be faulty information), in the event of a RV recall, the RV OEM is required to pay all costs. Looking at NHTSA rules it looks like it applies to RV’s equally with automobiles If true it’s the cost of doing business. 🤷‍♂️

I care less about the looks than the aero. Granted this truck doesn’t care so much about aerodynamics, it’s not the old days of EV’s anymore, but it’s part of the culture now. Just like the “0-60” is part of the ICE culture. Outside gubbins really kill aerodynamics. I’ve got some aero ideas for the Ollie I’d like to try someday. I like the metal plates (they are metal right?) of the water/air heaters on the side. Not fond of the plastic Truma plate. Anyhow back OT - do the new trailers still have the switch plate near the door? It would be a mistake to drop that. Jason showed in the video how you can monitor and toggle individual circuits “without having to flip a breaker”. That’s of limited use I think, who turns off circuits via breakers? But for them will probably eliminate a bunch of production steps. Now it’s just run the wires to the control box probably and no breaker panels. But it’s also single point of failure. I had both my composting fan and CO/LP detector go out. It was an easy fix dealing with the issues as it’s all physical. The Ecoflow ‘Smart Touchscreen’ was released in Summer of 2022, probably wasn’t really available until the next year. So it’s only been a couple years on the market, not a lot of track record yet.

Drying it out is a temporary solution, as it will get wet again no doubt! I would be replacing the 7-blade plug on the Oliver. These plugs are not real easy to wire, as you have to cut the wire short enough to fit inside the plug. Make sure to cut the cable back a couple inches to strip and bare all new copper ends. I replaced ours as soon we purchased our Oliver used. For a waterproof installation, install a new complete cable, like this one from eTrailer: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Wiring/TowSmart/TS74RR.html This would certainly be more work (so many are afraid of work these days 🤣)! But it's something that will last. Not sure on your hull, but in our hull the trailer wire is split up under the front dinette seat (picture shows trailer cable and all 7 wires connected to various Oliver circuits).

I recommend reading this thread. While the hard reboot wasn't the ultimate solution, you should check the end of the thread for information about changing settings on the inverter. I agree that it's more of a temporary workaround than a true fix. I experienced a similar issue when running my microwave on battery power, and it seems to affect only certain recent model years. You didn't mention your OTT's year and model, so I'm not sure if you're included in that range.

My wife Chris said, "The sound on this A/C is soooo quiet! I can't see it any taller from inside, so who cares?" I think it looks just fine up top (function over form) and would not want any Dometic A/C product ever, or Truma for that matter, with no aftermarket support and warranty issues with something like owner installation of a Soft-Start. BTW, Soft-Start should be inherent to the design, like it is on variable-speed or inverter A/C units (not after-the-fact with Truma service costs). I've heard the quiet Atmos/Tosot and they are quiet. The Chill cube is quieter, while using half the power. It's the height of this unit with huge evaporator fan, that creates its efficiencies and allows for an air handler flush to the Oliver ceiling. She looks just fine! We love this product. 😎

That was big of Oliver. In my opinion Truma clearly had an engineering problem but didn't have the capacity to correct all the units in the field. Oliver really stepped up and backed their customers; awesome!

Read the post here on the Forum about how Oliver footed the entire bill for the repairs to the Truma water heaters. Bill

I’ll guess because it’s a high profile unit? They’re coming out with a lower rated low profile one but it’s not here yet. Seems like Oliver likes low profile

FWIW I’m a noise freak, super sensitive to noise. The Truma Aventa is supposed to be among or the quietest on the market according to AI. At first I was disappointed hearing how noisy it is but I forgot that ACs need to break in. Used it yesterday, it’s really good! I can sleep with this. Don’t know why they’re switching from Truma, it’s a good combination

Gravity or compressed air or time (in a dry place)

Thank you. Much appreciated!

How did you get the water out?

This maintenance can be completed in 2 hours (by a young experienced mechanic), or you could take most of the day, taking your time. I did the curbside yesterday and did the other side today. It's not a whole lot of work. The second side went very fast today (90 min), having the tools ready. This is just what I did and I'm sure others may do more or less. It's all the required maintenance in what makes sense to me, in my experience. IMO this maintenance should be conducted annually, or bi-annually for those who tow 10K +/- miles in a year. Following is a suggested 10-Step suspension maintenance procedure: 1) On level ground, jack up one side of the trailer, using the rear leveler jack, while the Oliver is hitched to the tow vehicle (mandatory for safety). 2) Spin each tire to see if it rolls freely. Listen carefully for any unusual sounds. Try to wobble each wheel left to right (3-9 clock positions) and top to bottom (6 - 12) to observe any free-play. There should no observable free-play with the Nev-R Lube bearings. 3) Remove the lug nuts on both wheels with impact (no impact, loosen prior to lifting). Place a jack stand under rear axle, close to wheel, for safety since your body will be under the trailer to do much of this work (see pic1). 4) Use compressed air to blow through all openings of the braking plates to remove all shoe dust from the interior of the brake drums. Wear safety glasses and stay upwind from the cloud of brake dust. Blow around until you see nothing but clean air. 5) Grease all six (6) wet bolts, plus two (2) grease fittings on the EZ Flex. Use a power grease gun if available with a LockNLube coupler attached. Add just enough grease to see it ooze from an edge. Wipe up all excess grease. A straight-blade screwdriver helps to remove old grease from recessed areas. Wipe grease fittings before and after and place caps back on (I go without caps). 6) Torque all suspension bolts to Alcan specs. 90 ft-lb for U-bolts, 80 ft-lb for the 3 end-points, 65 ft-lb on the shackle wet-bolts. Once the U-bolts set and do not need tightening, the nuts rust into place and you will not need to check again in the future (not true for the wet-bolts). I go lighter torque than Alcan specs on the wet-bolts, 70 and 58 ft-lbs which is an eighth (12%) lighter. 80 and 65 just seem high. 7) Check drag on the drums. They should contact the shoes ON and OFF when spinning (shoes installed are not perfectly round). If they do not drag at all, the self-adjuster is not tightening properly (see pic2 brake assembly, adjuster at bottom). Mine were all dragging just right on like-new axles installed Aug 2025, now at 3600 miles. There are two inspection ports on the backside. Unfortunately, there is no way to reach the gear to adjust it, due to the Oliver wide leaf/shock absorber plate. If adjusters are not working, the hub/drum must be removed, thus becoming a full brake job. 8] Pull the trailer emergency brake switch and turn the drums until they stop. Check amperage draw at each wheel, placing amp meter clamp around ANY single wire behind wheel. Amperage should be 3A +/- without much difference between wheels. My LF wheel was 3.1A (LOL, the one I hear skid when the brake controller gain is up too high)! The other three read 2.8A, the two main brake wires coming out of the streetside Oliver hull read 6.1A front and 5.8A rear. Looks good to me! 9) Remove gravel from the tread of both tires, using a thin flat-blade screwdriver, while inspecting for tread wear, tire defects and foreign objects (I do this with all our vehicles every time wheels are removed for any reason and have found many screws and other sharp metal objects in tire treads, sometimes causing slow leaks that can be fixed now vs. getting worse later on the highway). 10) Mount rims, lower hull to get rim close, making it easy to place wheel on studs. Use impact on light setting and snug up lug nuts evenly. Lower hull to sit on wheels, remove leveler blocks, and torque lugs to 90 ft-lbs. Repeat all 10 steps on the other side of the trailer. Let me know if I missed something or other suggestions! 😎

I changed out the cream colored blinds to white. I have both sets and they are free to whoever wants to pick them up. The new white ones started to get tiny holes in the fabric so they were replaced but if you're not as sensitive to light then they would be ok for you. cpaula2go2@gmail.com if you want them. Paula

Alcan specs 90-80-65 ft-lbs for U-bolts/leaf end-bolts/shackle bolts. I wet with 90-70-58 which is about 12% lighter on the wet-bolts. U-bolts need the 90 ft-lbs for sure. Just my gut feeling and what I went with. No science behind it. If you go too loose, the shackles can get damaged. You will need to tow some miles and work the retorquing intervals Alcan suggests. Next time lube first then torque. Torqued wet-bolt will likely refuse grease most of the time. The brass bushing will also set into the leaf eyelets with use. Yes, everything needs to wear-in a bit. You will soon love the ride! The other day, I took a traffic circle towing at 25 MPH! I almost forgot Ollie was back there. The Oliver stood tall and proud through the turn on Alcan Springs! 😎

John, I installed my Alcan's last week and two of the shackle wet bolts would not take grease despite having no load on the suspension and the grease ports at the 3:00 position. I did pre-grease all parts before assembly. It seems to me that the torque on these bolts in this location ( 65 Ft/lbs suggested by Alcan ) might be too tight, I see that you use 58 Ft/lbs. I've been thinking about loosening mine to see if that helps. What's your opinion on that? I haven't towed the trailer as yet, do the brass bushings need to wear in a bit?

I would not use Rvtech & Marine Service Center ( Fort Myers ), in my opinion, but do your own research if you choose to; just a heads up.

Thanks

Check your 7 pin. If it gets water in it the on board 12v battery will trigger. see this posting https://4-ever-hitched.com/blog-articles/f/why-were-my-tail-lights-on-all-night tail lights on ??

New to posting to the forum… Our LE 1 (#454) is unhitched and on the pad in our back yard. Some of the tail lights have come on spontaneously. Anyone had this and have a fix? Thanks - Russ Brogden

When first fired up, the Chill Cube in med-high fan makes about 30% of the noise of the Dometic P2. Once the cabin cools and it's variable speed compressor and fans gear down, its whisper quiet sound must be <5% of the awful P2! It's by far the quietest A/C unit I've ever heard. Wonderful easy sound for an afternoon nap in the Oliver! 😎 And for us, power requirements are very important, so to run our A/C on battery/inverter.

Both the Chill Cube and the Fresh Jet are quieter than our old Penguin. Do we know which is the quietest? The choices for AC replacement are growing!

Have you used your jack yet, and did it extend high enough for the Oliver to not require additional cribbing?

Greetings Oliver Family -- I have a couple of items that I need help with on my 2022 Oliver LE2 and I wonder if anyone has used Mobile Techs in Florida. I'm down along the SW Coast, though I am interested in knowing about any Mobile Techs here in the state, for future reference. * Reports on Good or Bad experiences can be useful * Thanks in advance for any suggestions!