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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/02/2017 in Posts

  1. Did some "unscheduled maintenance" today. I discovered a while back that I was not getting any airflow out of the bathroom heat vent.... None. Took a flashlight and looked into the vent, and sure enough, the duct had separated from the vent. When I took the little rack off the front of the vanity, discovered the following: 1. For those who thought that perhaps there was wasted space in there, there really is not. Duct, plumbing, wiring and the recessed wash cloth rack take up almost all of the room. You will be glad to have space to maneuver under there if you ever want to do some mods or repairs. 2. The reducer that attaches the duct to the vent is metal, really heavy for the application, and just barely fits if everything is lined up just right during the build. In my case, the plumbing vent angles out away from the front wall just slightly, and it's just enough to make the reducer not fit. The joint was held together with foil duct tape, and the weight caused it to separate. 3. Found a very light weight plastic reducer on Amazon that fit the situation much better. The joint between the reducer and vent still not a good fit, (meaning it's just a tad too wide to slide into the vent), but with a couple of good wraps with foil tape it's on securely. And feather weight, so no danger that it will come loose.
    4 points
  2. Having owned and built boats, I am very familiar with the 3M 5200 and 4200 products. I was expecting the panel on the front of the vanity to be much more difficult to remove because I thought I would run into a thick bead of 4200. If you look closely at the first photo you can see a thin bead of caulk. And, it was very easy to slip a razor blade between the vanity and the panel and slice through the caulk. I know they use 4200 on all the major joints In the Oliver, and I could be wrong, but I honestly don't think it was 4200 that was holding that panel on....it seemed to me to be silicone. It also cleaned up very easily with the blade, with no damage whatsoever to the gel coat. I believe the newer Ollies have the panels fixed with a couple of screws in the same location I put mine, but they have decorative caps to hide the screw heads.
    1 point
  3. Nice job: Well Done. Feel a lot better about the whole process. It is doable. Looks like he sink plumbing isn't going anywhere, and would stand up to rough roads...
    1 point
  4. That was a good idea to refasten it with screws. When I had to take mine off, to repair the broken water hose, it was fastened with 6 big globs of silicon that was difficult to cut through. Might be nice to have a access door in the closet to get to the stuff under the sink. Stan
    1 point
  5. Also, the old caulk came off very easily, also with a blade (carefully). Re-caulked with 3M marine grade silicone caulk.
    1 point
  6. Whoa, a heated bathroom floor, that could've been a nice option. Not being near the trailer, to look, is the bathroom vent not the same as the cabin vents? Those are just pushed on the housing on mine, not even taped, hold tight.
    1 point
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