ScubaRx
-
Posts
3,133 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
160
Posts posted by ScubaRx
-
-
1 minute ago, CRM said:
I was going to go with a wood stopper myself until I realized a PVC cap would be a perfect fit.
One of the early Owners lathe turned some inserts out of 4x4 composite fence posts that fit perfectly. He gave some to his friends. I still use mine.
-
3
-
-
When the Oliver travel trailer went back into production in 2013 after the 4+ year hiatus, one of the items that had previously been included was deleted, the motorized electric cord reel. Since we had owned one of the early models that had that feature, I was disappointed to learn that it would no longer be included in the list of standard features. I insisted that we have one included in our Hull #050 and being the wonderful company they are, my "request" was accommodated. As far as I know, none of the trailers built after mine has had this feature.
-
4
-
-
Just glue it back on and forget about it.
-
2
-
-
I believe she figured it out about 4 hours ago and said that it is working now.
-
1
-
-
We’ve been up and down the Moki many times over the past 30 years. It’s not nearly as bad as a sharp stick in the eye.
-
3
-
-
4 hours ago, 2008RN said:
ScubaRX,
I love the idea of wiring to the Rear camera switch. My Oli wasn't purchased with a camera. So I put in a camera year ago. My 2020 Oli fortunately was pre-wired with a camera Positive wire from where the switches are at to the rear upper section of the Oli. All I had to do was put in a switch in the panel and hook up wires.
I think from the rear camera wire, I could end up placing a repeater either in the rear, in the pantry, or in the vanity. I already have a sender for the camera in the vanity, I don't know if having 2 senders in the vanity would interfere with each other.
I have though about buying a TST system in the past, but I just figured on doing stuff the old fashion way. Now with this thread, I now think it is something that is more of a must instead of nice to have option.
I don't think it really matters where the repeater for tire minder system is actually located, but I am positive that you are correct in thinking that having the system is a must rather than a nice toy. It could very well save your (or someone else's) life or, at the very least, your bacon!
-
3
-
-
6 hours ago, MarkV said:
Update: we've had a faulty switch inn the bathroom so we just changed the configuration and now have 12v at the wires.
Pump still won't come on though.
Does Ii t need to be fully connected to the pipes to turn on?
Yes, it has to sense a change in the water pressure to turn on and off.
-
2
-
-
6 hours ago, 2008RN said:
Did you wire it up right by the switch up front, or in the rear where the canera is?
I mounted the booster at the front of the trailer underneath the bathroom vanity. I ran a power wire from the switch up front (by the door in our camper). Somehow, I wasn't aware of the "mount near the tires" rule. But it worked well from this position.
-
6 hours ago, Steve and MA said:
As I recall, the instructions that came with my TST kit recommended installing the booster near the sensors and to connect directly to the battery. We installed ours in the battery compartment. It's about as close to the sensors as you can get, and there's no need to route the wires through the hull or under the frame. It's not a switched connection, but if you're worried about draining the batteries you can just remove the 2 amp fuse for storage.
Steve
Before we got our newest truck with tire sensors supplied for the trailer, we use the TST system with great success. I did use the booster and I wired it to my camera switch. When the rear camera was on (always during travel) there was power going to the booster. I sold this entire system to a new owner several years ago. I believe it is one of the best aftermarket brands.
-
6
-
-
On 10/2/2023 at 7:18 AM, Frank C said:
...At that time (and maybe still now) Oliver was installing the heavy gauge wiring for the solar package, even if the solar panel option was not installed. So the wiring is in place between the hulls from the roof down to the street side bed so the panels can be added in the future if desired...
Oliver quit pre-wiring the trailers for solar several years ago. The mounting plates for the panels are still fiber-glassed, into the roof however.
-
1
-
1
-
-
On 9/23/2023 at 11:58 AM, topgun2 said:
Bill
p.s. unless you cut the wiring then the camera is connected to the power wiring via a "pin connector". Simply depress the latch on the side of the connector and pull it apart. The new camera will simply plug right back into that connector. Then just follow the instructions above to get the new camera to "pair" with the monitor.
Do not cut the wire pigtail on the camera. The will not allow any credit if you do.
-
2
-
-
There aren't very many OEII’s that will have a tongue weight below 600 pounds. Most will range from 625-675. Some will go over 700 pounds.
If you are a diehard minimalist you can probably squeeze by with that vehicle. Otherwise, you’re gonna want a real truck to really enjoy your travels without constantly worrying about being on the edge. Many of us are using 3/4 or 1 ton turbo diesel trucks to tow with and those of us in that camp have all moved up from smaller, more marginal vehicles.-
3
-
-
It appears that 12VDC is back-feeding from the battery out to the plug. Getting shocked there would mean you'd also have to be touching the ground wire, the frame or the basket as well.
@mossemi Check one of your wiring diagrams and see if the black wire from the 7-pin doesn't run directed to the battery. It probably does not currently, but I think it did in some of the earlier builds.
-
2
-
2
-
-
On 9/28/2023 at 4:29 PM, Steve Morris said:
What is causing this part to break? Age?
I ask, because prior to getting the Oliver in March, we’d never had a trailer with a toilet. In order to minimize water use, we rapidly push down the pedal and let it spring back up on its own. I’m starting to think that might be asking for trouble! 😳
I push down the pedal with my foot but NEVER let it snap back up. I agree with you, that might be asking for trouble!
-
1
-
5
-
-
As a slight aside, because the solar panel connected to the "solar port" has its own controller and is wired directly to the batteries, whatever amperage input they provide will not be included in the total received over any given period of time. This is because their added input is not included in the calculations done in the main controller and displayed on whatever monitor you are using. Some simple rewiring can easily remedy that problem.
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, Ollie Ollie in Free said:
I just had an electrical system overhaul done by Royal Coach RV in Bakersfield, CA. They did an excellent job.
What had gone wrong that required an overhaul of the electrical system?
-
On 9/25/2022 at 8:10 AM, rideandfly said:
Here's latest CAT scale results for our 2022 SR5 2WD Crew Cab Tundra's new curb weight after installing accessories. I did not document accessory weights during installation. Installed Toyota side rails, Toyota folding hard bed cover, Toyota bed mat, Toyota Mud guards, and Timbren SES rear suspension kit.
A quick internet search of your stated installed items reveals you've lost a little less than 350 pounds of cargo capacity.
Toyota side rails 75 pounds each, total 150 pounds
Toyota folding hard bed cover over 100 pounds
Toyota bed mat 68 pounds
Toyota Mud guards guessing less than 10 pounds
Timbren SES rear suspension kit 12 pounds-
2
-
-
On 8/5/2023 at 8:45 PM, SeaDawg said:
Our 2008 came with the original single step, and we used a stool as a second step for several years. My short legs, and one flip of that sturdy stool, for me, at a crazy hilly campsite in Tennessee, prompted us to upgrade to the double step when it came available.
It's a bolt on. A great "upgrade" for us, standard for all the new folks. Best double step in the marketplace. Superbly constructed. Way overbuilt, but that's the Oliver way.
The step brackets on the older frames are attached in a different place and mounting a current set of steps may involve some creativity. @CRM, I have an extra set of double steps that came off a trailer just a few hull numbers from yours that might bolt right up. We’d need to measure to make sure.
-
2
-
3
-
-
2 hours ago, rideandfly said:
...Rig Weight 11,100 pounds
The ready to camp weight of our LE2 is under 5,000 pounds.
The dry weight of our Oliver on our delivery day was 10-15% more than your camping weight.
Our entire rig weighs almost 19,000 pounds ready to camp.
-
3
-
4
-
-
40 minutes ago, Frank C said:
There are a lot of opinions on tow vehicles, but a tour of any campground shows that the vast majority of people choose full size pickup trucks, 1/2 ton and up, as their tow vehicle. And that’s because it’s about a lot more than just the rated towing capacity of the vehicle. The payload (cargo) weight rating and tongue weight limits are important too, but as John mentioned above, also cargo volume (space) is a major issue. We tried towing with large body on frame SUVs (a Ford Expedition EL extended length, and a Nissan Armada), and found that while the towing weight capacity and cargo weight rating was adequate, the bigger issue with the SUVs was not having enough space for all the things that go along on extended long camping road trips. Things such as bicycles, outdoor rug, camp chairs, awning screen, folding picnic table, clothes drying rack, portable grill, Andersen jack buckets, leveling blocks, large rubber wheel chocks, X-chocks, portable solar panel, water filtration system, generator & gas can, portable waste tote tank, tools, some spare parts, roadside emergency gear, etc. It’s all stuff we actually do use on trips, some folks can get by with less 🙂. And a lot of the camping gear gets dirty/muddy at the campgrounds, so better to store that stuff in a truck bed than the carpeted/upholstered interior of an expensive plush SUV. We finally ended up with an F-250 which meets our needs.
Very well stated, Frank.
-
3
-
-
I'm glad you joined our forum. My gut feeling is that everyone has something to share, maybe they just don't realize their knowledge is useful and would be of help to somebody. Welcome from Hull #050.
-
4
-
-
A quick internet search on the specs places it somewhere just below the capabilities of a newer model 1/2 ton pickup and way ahead of a '92 Ford Ranger.
-
3
-
2
-
-
2 hours ago, docron said:
Was camping at Great Basin NP, no hookups. Woke up in the morning with no 120VAC to the outlets.
Checked breakers and reset, no obvious probs and still no 120v to the outlets. Checked the GFCI and could not reset it. Checked for voltage at the GFCI. Nothing. The microwave works. No power to the outside outlet. Furnace and air conditioner working.
All 12vdc systems working.
Checked the circuit breakers under the street side bed and both are OK. Shut off and turned on the inverter, no change.
Called Oliver service and would not help me, no tech support for anything 120v.
Has anyone experienced this issue and how did you solve it? A little apprehensive about taking it somewhere for repairs.
docron
Since you did not fill in the information about your trailer, it would be really helpful if you told us which model trailer you have, what year it is, what kind of batteries, solar?, generator?
Without much info to go on, I'm confused. You're camping with no hookups but somehow expected there to be 120 volts available from your outlets?
You state that the microwave and A/C will run. The only place they can get power (in your situation) is from the batteries, through the inverter and only if your trailer has the Lithium battery package.
Further you state that you "Called Oliver service and [they] would not help me, no tech support for anything 120v." This does not sound right. Who did you talk to?
-
7
-
-
On 9/19/2023 at 12:42 PM, Skipster said:
We have been towing our Elite 1 for the past 3 years with our 2017 6 cylinder jeep trailhawk grand cherokee. we have been happy with the towing. but we see the need not to go up hills at 35 and 40 mph in 3 rd gear. would anyone care to comment on whether the same vehicle with a v8 motor would do better on the slopes? looking to upgrade my tow vehicle but really don't want a big truck . thanks in advance
skip nielsen
For your Elite I, you don't need a "big truck". I would highly recommend a Mid Sized Pickup like the GMC Canyon or the Chevy Colorado with the 2.7L I-4 Turbo DOHC VVT DI with Active Fuel Management engine. This engine is standard in the GMC and the high end option the Colorado.
https://pickuptrucktalk.com/2023/05/2023-gmc-canyon-vs-chevy-colorado-spec-by-spec-comparison/
There are some owners that use this small truck (or its diesel predecessor) to tow the larger Elite II. All report success towing the 2000+ pound heavier trailer. But, that "success" is dependent on what your expectations are of a good towing experience. To me, it's being able to carry anything I desire and still be able to power up a 12,000 foot pass at the legal speed limit and coast down the other side never having to touch the brakes, using only the exhaust brake and downshifting. This is easy East of the Mississippi River where the highest point you can drive to is 6400 feet. Compare that to the highest paved road in North America, Mount Evans Road in Colorado that rises to a height of 14,130 feet. Since you hail from Montana, I'm sure you're all too familiar with navigating the western highways.
We've owned 5 different tow vehicles including a 1500, 2500 and now a 3500. I've towed with all of them - a lot. For me, I could have my choice as we own both a GMC Canyon with the 2.8L diesel and a Silverado 3500HD 6.6L diesel but anything smaller than our 3500 is too small for our Elite II. We get better towing fuel mileage with it than with any of the others.
-
1
-
3
-
Water in Shower Pan
in General Discussion
Posted
It does drain into the gray tank, but it has to get through that valve first in order to get there.