Going

theOrca, I am also looking at the Fresh Jet and waiting to see how your install goes. There are 2 others who did install it and posted on the forum a year or so ago. Curious about the drain condensate location and the extra roof seal you mention and the thermostat. My Penguin has heat strips and the Fresh Jet does not. I was told by a dealer the harness plug at the unit was the same but because of the heat, the thermostat might now work. When you post after install can you mention what thermostat you have and if your Penguin had heat. Also what is ADB? Hull 246

Thanks for this thread. I am getting ready to do this mod using the High Sierra head partially because it looks very "angle" versatile so it can be pointed downward at a greater angle then others and because this seems to be a quality head. What GPM did you get? 1.25, 1.5, 1.8 or 2. Just curious and if you are still satisfied? Also, did the head fit into the existing mount/hanger ok? I am also installing the Marine hatch and this control: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTQDRF36?smid=A1ACPRXA78MXSS&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1

Nice. Was wondering if there was something out there like it. I do not have a 12 volt connection on mine. Guess I could tap into the front jack power. Do you still like it?

Just read this thread and now I am really excited I have a far less expensive option than Truma. Thanks for the post! We were at the rally but did not attend the service question and answer with Jason. Was this topic discussed? It appears from this thread, the Dometic Freshet 3 is a direct plug and play to its noisy older brother. I did not see any posts saying anything electrical needed to change. I also never saw if anyone answered the wattage required to start/run with a generator. Does anyone know that answer? Hull #246.

Nice for being able to move from each stabilizer depending on sky. How tall does the pole extend above the trailer? Does it extend easily with the dish attached?

Seadawg and Mountainoliver, I am following after your footsteps here first in installing the Marine hatch and second in replacing the shower system. I really like the design. But I can not see the diverter in these pictures. I only see the hot and cold valves where the shower hose connects. W/hat am I missing? Besides glasses.

Sure, a pic would be goo. I am not following "between" the BBs. Are you talking front to back or side to side.

Nice. This is exactly what I needed. Earlier this year I had 3 LifePros installed in your final configuration but they did not install an on/off switch. I supplied all the parts (except an on/off switch) after consulting with BB so I did provide the replacement board with lithium option. I have been trying to figure out how to mount the switch inside the box. And Wa La, here it is! They did thankfully route all the neg connections through the SS so it would work properly. Couple of questions; 1) Is a 250A bus bar with 3/8" connectors what you used? 2. Did you use a tie down strap on the batteries? My 3 fit snuggly in the box using an aluminum flat bar on one side on the bottom of the tray to hold them against the other side so they don't move but seems there should be a strap too in case of a bounce. However, there is no slot on the back of the tray for a strap to hold onto.

Good idea on the bike pump.

John, I googled how to drill in fiberglass gel coat but what type hole saw did you use for the larger hole? Also curious since you had to make the hole behind the stick on reflector, why not just put it anywhere you want?

Was there a hole behind the reflector plate or did you cut one? My reflector plate appears to just be stuck on the outside with no hole behind it. My coax cable port is located much lower in a hard to get to place behind a piece of white pvc tubing. Is that the AC drain line? Anyway looking for another location but if I have to cut a hole might as well be a new one. Your picture above is different then mine.

Curious, what is plugged into the 12 volt outlet?

I believe your bracket is like mine in that it is L shaped and does not have the added structural brace welded in the middle. I am hull 246, 2017. I am wondering if that matters. I know Oliver strengthened the brackets and I think the mounts in the fiberglass to handle the self supporting awning. Mine is the Girard with the fold out supports that connect to the lower trailer. If the dish is supported equally from the center of gravity, then it would be fine which I think it is. I just received mine a few days ago and it weighs 9.2 lbs. I do not see any cantilever issues but would like a second opinion. Wouldn't want it pulling away from the trailer over time. Thanks.

To you first point yes, if you winterize in a cold climate. The Piedmont region in NC where I live sees mild winters so given the limited space I chose the horizontal position. I haven’t seen where Oliver installs them but I think vertical. To you second point yes, when charging, the pump must be off and one water fixture open thus inert. I started with 25psi. Per the instructions it should match the pump psi but not exceed it. Instructions also say the pressure should be released when not in use. The braided hose is better per the instructions to further minimize vibration/noise. However, though someone else said the shorter the distance between the pump and the accumulator the better, the instructions say it doesn’t matter and the accumulator can be placed anywhere in line on the pressurized side. Bill used the provided coupler but also had to raise the accumulator to be inline with the pump. Though I suppose without the extra hose there is less vibration. I wanted the valve on the easy to access side. I am just happy I installed one and will not hear my water lines chatter anymore! Hopefully.

I searched the forum and could not find anything on this. I am hull 246, 2017 and just now getting around to cleaning the excess glue around the edge of my floor. Doing complete maintenance as getting ready to go out west next year. Did any others have this issue. Not sure why it exist from factory but see the picture. What are suggestions to clean it with so not to damage the vinyl floor?

Hi Bill. Nope it wasn't hard at all. When you say braided lines, you mean steel braided? And by pipe insulation you mean like a foam sleeve?

I just did this mod. I used the silence hose kit too. As you can see in my picture I put the accumulator to the far right and chose not to move my pump. Tested it today and seems to be working, although won’t know until I turn the water on/off a few times. I set the pressure at 25 based on input here because I think the pump is 30psi.. Thanks for the instructions.

I am in the process of re thinking all this as well. Going to take my bulb seal off too. I believe in some cases like mine Oliver installed it tight against the awning and in others like mine left a small gap. (bad installation) Debris definitely get stuck in there. I like your idea of installing gutter guard below say about 2 or 3 inches. You could even have a high point in the middle gradually sloping down to front and back. Nothing would get caught up top in a hard to reach area either. The other thought I had was installing a new bulb or the gutter guard (or something similar) up top in the valley between the top and the awning cutting sections to fit in between the mounting brackets so it would be flush with them for a smooth path. Also on the brackets, mine are just L brackets with no middle piece to drill a hole through so that is not a problem.

John, this post has been very helpful in my search to transition to BB Lithium, especially the step by step installing the PD4045. I was going to have a professional install but now I am going to do it myself. Do you also have threads on installing the BAM030712000 Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor and the. SCC110030210 SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 Charge Controller with Bluetooth? If I remember, the Monitor just replaces the Zantrax and I just have to make a plate to mount it too and cover the larger hole left by the Zantrax. Just wondering if anything specific about the wires to wires on either of these change? Also, I posted on another thread yesterday that the BB 270 amp Gamechangers will not fit unless you relocate the wiring in the battery box. After that I decided to just stick with the 3, 100 amps. But then reviewing this post again, I see you did relocate the wiring. Was that difficult because you have limited space on either side of the battery box at the top? Does the wiring come out simply by unscrewing the plastic "nuts" around the wire inside the battery box? And I assume you drilled new holes from inside out? I am asking because and depending on your answers, I think with your wire re configuration, you could get 2 of the 270s in there which takes it to a whole new level of DC power. How much, I don’t know except you can run anything in the Oliver and if you don’t run the AC or microwave does that give you 5 days of power vs 2 ? The price is significantly more because you then have to replace the inverter for another $1300 plus the extra cost of the batteries. I am trying to figure out the cost/value proposition. One benefit is theoretically, I would not have to run my generator to charge or run accessories. One thought is I plan to use my Oliver to go off road at certain hunting sites and running a generator would be a noise I would not want. Any insight you can provide would be helpful.

I am still going through the process of changing so I measured the compartment again. While the battery storage opening appears larger enough for the 270s, with the power cables in the back, it is not. The actual battery box depth is a little over 23 inches but after taking the cables into consideration (you can only sit up against them) the depth reduction goes to 21.25 inches. The 270s are just under 23 inches. So I am going with the three 100s as you have pictured here. Are the SCC110030210 SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 Charge Controller with Bluetooth AND the PD4045CSV Progressive Dynamics Replacements 4000 Series 45 Amp Lithium Converter just simple swap outs?

I have been wondering the same same thing. You are asking about the Xantrex 3000 correct which is fairly sizable?

Thanks for the info. The thread from Frank C was very helpful and yes after further study, I do not believe the BB 270Ah batteries will fit even if you do remove the battery tray. So going with the 100s. I will add another post and list of upgrades once complete.

I think I have decided to add the inverter instead of the PD4045 for this reason. Of course it adds $1500 to the total costs but my BB contact said if I did not mind spending the extra money he definitely would recommend it. Thanks for originally clarifying this for me. Does anyone happen to know where Oliver installed the inverter?

I have the PD replacement included and am adding the Victron back in. Had it in then took it our to simplify and because I wasn’t sure if it would fit in the Zamp space. I currently have the Zamp. The Victron is two piece to get the wall display too, from what I am seeing. Did you just mount the non display piece in the space behind the Zamp display?

Good to know. I will ask BB about including it, primarily because of the faster charge and I assume since Oliver does not replace the solar panels with there system the Xantrex will do the same thing with BB. I can’t remember, but doesn’t the soft start lower the watt requirement to 1000 from 1200 with out it? I have the soft start.