rideadeuce

Really happy with the mount and semi-permament installation.

You can't see it in the picture but the cap posts were cracked and the screw mount that held it down had been broken as well during a wash/wax job. Kept falling off.

I have to agree most things can be attached with proper prep using VHB tape, especially on fiberglass, it is a perfect medium for VHB tape. I was actually going to use it to attach the rain guard on the new Maxx-Air fan but decided not to use the guard at all. My two 90 watt panels I installed up top are held in place by VHB only. I did use some backup attachment screws for the wiring mounted on the aluminum solar panel frame. It's been 4-5 years and everrything has held up great. AmSolar.com swears by it, says they have never had a panel come off that was installed correctly. One does hate to drill into the beautiful, waterproof fiberglass unnecessarily, maybe with time, more and more people will ask for VHB tape's use. The drive for its use also needs to come from the manufactures of 3rd party items to make them more conducive to VHB tape installation. This is I am sure is not a priority for them but it sure would be nice for us. https://amsolar.com/shop/mounting-accessories/#

I don't know enough to really answer your question but what the deciding factor for me was that Victron stated somewhere that the non-isolated version will work for most (99%) of applications. Maybe @MAX Burner will have some input after having had some experience using it.

The hardest part of this job was finding the correct part so that you do not have to drill new holes. Make sure to get one that is 5 1/2 in wide NOT 5 1/4 which most are. The one I found is from eTrailer and it is made in the USA even better. After butyl tape cures for a few days, I will put down some marine caulk. https://www.etrailer.com/RV_Vents_and_Fans/LaSalle_Bristol/34474558.html Best, Mike

@Galway Girl Did you swap out your hot bus bar for better or more connections? Could you wire ORION XS Pos output directly to the post where the (2) 4 AWG wires are already connected.

@MAX Burner I just noticed that you installed a non-isolated DC/DC charger. The newly released Orion XS 12/12 50amp charger is only available in non-isolated version and one of the requirements is that the starter battery and house battery share a common earth ground. Did you just run your black negative from the TV battery to the negative bus bar => charger negative to negative bus bar => then from bus bar to ground. I wasn't sure about the wiring. I have the new version that is non-isolated on order and was trying to figure how to wire. https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-xs-12-12-50a-dc-dc-battery-charger Oh, and do you think it is possible to snake the 4 awg cables from the cable gland opening under the toilet to the aft dinette area without removing the bathroom shelf. Is it worth attempting? Or just remove it and proceed.

Yes, sure do.

Finally, got around to switching out old Zamp solar SAE plug that used reverse polarity. Switched to industry standard polarity so I don't have to use a polarity reversal adapter to recharge house batteries with Goal Zero panels. Plus the cap had broken off and I already had an open sealant tube from other projects. Best, Mike

Little Giant setup with trestle brackets and plank is a game changer for working on and cleaning the Oliver, especially at my age. They actually sell a ladder with built in levelers. The ladder comes apart to make to A-frames, you connect them with trestle brackets and top them off with plank. Links below: https://www.littlegiantladders.com/products/epic Accessory bundle is included with wall mount and trestles. https://www.littlegiantladders.com/products/ladder-plank?variant=41042434228389

Thought you might like this... not sure it will work. https://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-Vent-Corp-00-03901-Maxxshade/dp/B07KZ9T1Z4/ref=asc_df_B07KZ9T1Z4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693335493112&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=261179565984474337&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013085&hvtargid=pla-644086059971&mcid=6c1726096f563c42bb70becfaa12f4dd&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgJyyBhCGARIsAK8LVLOznWD0G_sZfeZYy7Yo7cdMK0aMU_GnNA76snk-FhTlKrpv7yB-cPwaAifEEALw_wcB&th=1

Oh, I forgot to mention I blew the fuse for the fan in the sub panel in the attic. Left side, 5th down 7.5 amp. I recommend taking it out before wiring.

Yes, it fits exactly. The only thing that would work better is to modify the wiring by drilling a hole next to the opening that leads to area that the LED shroud covers. The original wiring from the Vent-line fan came out the side and just tucked in between fiberglass shells. The wiring from the LED light squeezes between the extension shroud and hole but would be better if it was better protected.

The forum has given me more work to do again! Love the new fan with light. I won't bore everyone with the same information already available from previous posts but great upgrade. The only thing I might have done in retrospect is drill a 1/4 in hole adjacent to the 6 in opening so that the wires had a better home rather than squeezed between the fiberglass and shroud.

You VHB 4in round metal disks that the rubberized magnets on swivels legs attach to and then you can remove it easily for cleaning or land use, etc. Also, I wanted to use the legs so I could get a couple inches of height and use a M6 bolt sleeve to raise the rear to give the dish an 8-10 degree slant for water shedding (similar to the OEM RV mount). Of course, you can easily permanently mount it flat using VHB or screws if you wanted to, lots of options. No room in the back to place it due to AC blockage and Cradlepoint external antenna on my application. I did consider placing it on the AC shroud and could easily trial it due to having the magnets and VHB metal disks. My gut feeling is that the shroud is not strong or stable enough plus I don’t want to catch it on anything if it is the highest point on the RV. Internet speed testing has been great so far, anxious to see what the numbers are once I am traveling on the interstate.

Yes, but I am glad to report it was plug and play for the Cradlepoint and Starlink through the WAN port. Only had to drag the WAN connection to the priority spot and will automatically use LTE when it is not available. Also, put the Starlink router in bypass mode. Pretty awesome, took about 10 min to get it up and running. Just got the Starlink hardware installed today, now waiting on the mount.

Chose to drill a 1" hole next to the one for the Cradlepoint antenna. Used a Blue Sea's clam filled with Dicor caulk. Finally, got to use my black Flex tape to bottom out the hole I made so I could fill it with caulk sealant. In transit is a Trio Flatmount with rubberized magnets and swivels leg mounts attached to place on roof with VHB metal disks for a semi-permanent attachment to the front area of roof behind the Maxx-air vent. https://www.trioflatmount.com/shop/p/gen3flatmount .https://youtu.be/nnZypsxs-8M?si=Yeg2M-sG8SWG_HJ5

I know there are a lot of Starlink installation threads but my question is specifically about using it with Cradlepoint. When I had my cradlepoint installed in 2018 it was the 2nd one installed I believe. I know at some point OTT offered it OEM and I am not sure how many OTT owners actually use one. But since mine is not officially licensed through Cradlepoint there is not much support for it. Albeit, usually not needed. But I am curious to see if anyone has Starlink connected to the WAN port on their Cradlepoint for a seamless integration with LTE. So it will auto switch when LTE is not available. Best, Mike

@MAX Burner Wish I could have helped you find something but I don't get out to that side of town very often. Hope you have a great time at the Rally. Cheers mate! Oh, if you want a decent meal while in Guntersville check out The Rock House it is my favorite, Buck Pocket Steak house is good or check out City Harbor lots of good choices there.

Got this specifically for boon-docking/backup. It will pull from 100 ft away and uphill 20 ft. The best thing is you can use it as a general systems water filter all the time without the pump turned on. Not the smallest or the lightest but well built and should help us with better tasting water and carrying less on trips. Runs off 12V from SAE solar port. This was me just trying it out, not the home for it on the TT.

For anyone interested, got the cover in from Covarsandall.com. Strong elastic cord around the button to keep it secure and has velcro flaps 6 in from the top front and back for access. Lighter material than my last from from them but seems durable and waterproof. Welcome20 will get you 20% off. Mike

We do not have a dump station within a 20 min drive of my house in South Nashville. SO I am always trying to keep the kids and wife from using the toilet once we leave our last RV campsite with sewage connection. A real pain when I get home stressing how to empty and/or lubricate the tank valves, etc. Future plans are to connect a clean-out just outside the garage for a sewage dump station at the house. Along with 30 amp service at some point. I have used a Rv sewage macerator to empty the tanks once or twice. It will move things along pretty well even up hill. But it is a hassle and is only used when I have to do something to the system. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HRMYLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Interesting take on this topic. To me Motorola during the late 90s early 2000s big mistake was not changing with the times fast enough, staying stuck in the mud with physical keyboards, outdated form factor, old software that was cumbersome and couldn't be updated OTA, etc. things customers were starting to demand. What makes OTT foundation so great is the incredible build quality and use of double hull fiberglass construction #1 IMO. But not looking long term and seeing that 100% electrification of Ollies and cars for that matter is the future would be a mistake. I mean Ollie's are already essentially fully electrified hybrids just need to make the roof and battery compartments more friendly for larger solar arrays and battery banks. Great technology combined with a great structural foundation is what makes the travel trailer so uniquely usable. Pull/boon-dock almost anywhere! Just my opinion... I would love for them to stay out front with one of the best campers ever made. We can all can continue to customize and use as we see fit. We shall see what the future holds. My wants: 1) FLAT roof for expandable solar panels/ awnings (could double-triple the solar wattage) 2) Larger battery bank compartment and better use of empty basement space. 3) More robust, unified energy system (Victron would be my vote) from the factory so we don't have to drill holes in the beautiful fiberglass, etc. 4) Built-in water filtration 5) While wishing a 28-32 ft version with separate BR and dry bath would be awesome. Chime in! Best, Mike

https://pebblelife.com/ Propulsion assist, app parking. Starts 125k. The most interesting thing to me about the LV is the focus on all electric abilities and the priority of the roof real estate for solar. The OTT is still my favorite camper but the roof seems as if solar was just an afterthought. That has to change…. M

Soon they will couple to hitch automatically using AI and camera, have built in electric motors to pull and stop themselves in tandem with PV and then you will get out and use app to park them independently on site. They actually have this implemented in other ERV just not this one yet!