Geronimo John
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Posts
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Posts posted by Geronimo John
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20 hours ago, Danno and Donna said:
work was in redesigning and rebuilding the tray.
Time WELL spent!
With twin 300's, you can easily power up a medium size gathering!
Glad for your 100% success.
GJ-
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On 2/22/2024 at 11:45 AM, mossemi said:
And the only time I needed it was to help a neighboring camper air up his bicycle tires.
When I get to Talihina OK, I have 8 miles of 10%+ grade fire road to haul Ollie up Buffalo Mountain. The road is graded (sometimes) and I am dodging rocks and holes along much of it. But there are times that I must also use every tool I have (4WD, Low Range, Low Gear, Locker Rear axle, and deair my tires as well. Since at the bottom I have no idea what I'll be encountering going up, my airing up and down when in doubt is just a smart precaution.
But like you, I probably have loaned the compressor to others far more times than I have used it.
GJ
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On 12/25/2023 at 6:55 PM, ScubaRx said:
I'm sure you thought of this, but I most certainly would put the spare onto the rear axle.
Steve another good one. Thanks.
To stir the discussion pot a bit, should we put the single tire on the port (Street) or starboard (Curb) side and why? I have looked on line for any statistical data as to which side gets more flats, but have found no reliable info.
My gut says put the single (best tire) on the port (Street) side. Why? There are more curbs, pot holes and other debris migrating "down slope" that direction and that may induce higher odds of another flat. But that's just my humble guess.
Who has the facts on this?
GJ
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3 hours ago, mossemi said:
And the only time I needed it was to help a neighboring camper air up his bicycle tires.
When I get to Talihina OK, I have 8 miles of steep fire road to haul up Ollie. The road is graded (sometimes) and I am dodging rocks and bigger holes along the way. So airing up and down is a routine that I do twice a summer each way.
But you are right, I have allowed others to use it far more often each year than the Buffalo Mountain Road drill I use it on. But the real benefit is having it in the truck when going off road. Again, mostly for others use......
GJ
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Danno and Donna:
Can the two Epoch batteries be mounted on their sides and still fit into the existing tray as a result? If so, I would orient it to have the air vent high vs. low.
GJ
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On 11/4/2022 at 2:52 AM, John E Davies said:
I will air down to about 35 psi on the trailer if it is really nasty potholed rutted for a long distance. But folks need to be aware you have to air back up immediately when the speeds get back up to normal. Sometimes it may be hard to find a trailer sized pullout when you get back to a highway…. Keep that in mind too.
Good reminder for a shameless plug for my third most favorite tool. This with a 5 AH battery and the case live in our Ollie wardrobe closet. I pull it out when going rogue off-road with the TV.... just in case it is needed way out back.
Highly recommend this air compressor for mobile use:
GJ
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On 12/25/2023 at 6:55 PM, ScubaRx said:
I'm sure you thought of this, but I most certainly would put the spare onto the rear axle.
Brilliant !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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On 2/20/2024 at 6:34 AM, Geronimo John said:
Although the Litho's are pretty much "Maintenance Free", having the battery tray sure is handy. Especially if you mount a master switch, shunt, load terminal blocks and tie down straps in the battery bay as many of us have done.
Hope it works out well for you.
GJ
5 hours ago, Ronbrink said:I would suggest adding a platform for proper weight distribution if one decides to remove the tray.....
We all have our reasons and justifications when it comes to spending or saving money, just respect and be understanding of others and their decisions made.
Ron:
I caringly rewrote my above thoughts at least a dozen time specifically to be kind and respectful. It was also made in the hopes to highlight that the apparent intent to install larger litho's without the supporting and securing battery box tray should not be executed.
The idea of having litho's directly sitting in the battery bay may work for a given owner's use. But certainly would likely become a serious safety hazard should their use change. I learned just how rough the Yukon Territory and some Alaska "corduroy roads" are two summer ago. For strictly highway use, unsupported and unrestrained litho's may work just fine. But what happens when that trailer gets sold, and the new owner is unaware of such an install's vulnerabilities?
As a Registered Mechanical Engineer I am ethically required to not be silent when I can foresee a significant life and fire safety hazard. Having that much weight not fully restrained and/or supported in a battery box of a mobile application would be a problem. Especially for a mobile application that will be subject to high amplitude multiple directional accelerations.
That said, your suggestion for a load spreading and battery restraining "platform" certainly is a suggestion in the right direction. I think it is a great suggestion.
But from the perspective of respect and understanding, was it appropriate for you to suggest it? From "The knife cuts both ways" perspective; the answer is no. But from the higher perspective of Oliver Safety and caring for our family members: I think we can agree that both our intents were spot on.
GJ
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2 hours ago, jd1923 said:
Best reception would be to mount the dongle in an upper interior cabinet.
Thanks for the good info on mounting the dongle. If June is with me, she can easily cut and re-terminate just about any of this stuff, but I leave it to her as I would not be successful. Way too small for these ole eyeballs.
Also roger on higher vs closer and 5' of cable. If it works from under the dinette seat that's all I really am needing.
Mahalo!
GJ
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On 1/20/2024 at 6:05 PM, jd1923 said:
I now find myself in the position to replace the 30A inlet. SmartPlug is comparable in price the OEM Furrion brand. eTrailer sells the Furrion SS replacement inlet for $147 and the Smartplug SS inlet for $160.
Surely someone sells just the left half of this product. That could be just a $15 investment.
GJ
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Back to the VE.Direct.
My goal is to extend the Bluetooth range to the driver seat of our TV. So connecting it to the Victron Orion 12/12 - 30 charger we have mounted under the front dinette seat is the logical connection point IF:
A. Is the dongle rated for wet or moist location?
B. How long is the factory dongle cable?
Reason for asking is with our DC to DC Charger, we have path directly to the propane compartment. If the answers to the above two questions are favorable, I would mount the dongle high in the prone tank area on the fore and port side undersurface. This would shorten the distance from the dongle to the TV driver position and not require the dongle to transmit through the reflex insulation.
Maybe with a Velcro attachments under the top front corner of the area lid to make tank service lid removal easy.
GJ
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On 2/20/2024 at 7:52 AM, Ronbrink said:
I fill the LifeSaver Jerrycan and the Oliver’s freshwater tank with ‘home’ water prior to a trip departure;
Ron how is the LifeSaver pressurized to push water up to the countertop?
GJ
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19 hours ago, ScubaRx said:
They could build a trailer as big as they deem practical.
AND commercially viable. (IE: Would they sell enough to amortize their costs + profit requirements. )
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22 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said:
(The one thing I really miss was specific to our last fifth wheel. The bathroom was right next to the furnace and there was a floor heat register in the bathroom just outside the shower enclosure. You'd step out of the shower and stand right over that heat vent on cold days. Wonderful.)
Electric Floor Warming Mat would fix that! On our OE2, there is a plug just between the bathroom entrance and the wardrobe. Plugin and enjoy! At least until it becomes an electrifying experience. Maybe a low voltage water proof rated one would be a safer choice. Or you could use it to stand your hair up for a Halloween frightful hair style. 🙂
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On 1/26/2024 at 6:08 AM, topgun2 said:
I understand that EACH of the molds costs between 2 and 3 million dollars.
I would not be surprised if it cost that much to develop a new mold. Maybe even more as getting it perfect the first time would be extremely difficult to do.
But I would have to ponder a bit that a replacement mold made like previous ones would be that expensive. Can you please clarify?
As far as a 30' OEIII, I doubt it would be commercially successful for OTT due to the developmental costs it would take.
That said, it sure would be nice!!!!!
GJ
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13 hours ago, Danno and Donna said:
The different footprint will require that I remove the existing battery tray to make them fit
Although the Litho's are pretty much "Maintenance Free", having the battery tray sure is handy. Especially if you mount a master switch, shunt, load terminal blocks and tie down straps in the battery bay as many of us have done.
Hope it works out well for you.
GJ
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15 hours ago, mossemi said:
I thought you and rich.dev were discussing plusnuts installed in fiberglass.
Mossemi
You are correct as Mossemi appears to be using them as an anchor point! And it would apply. For the Bathroom cubby it would be a waste of fender washers as they are not high load or vibration applications.
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GI NOTE: For the Bathroom Cubby install, the below does not apply to this install. For the anchor point install it would apply.
For applications where you can somehow get to the back side here are two considerations:
- For high load applications, or ones that will be subject to strong vibrations, insert the Petal nut, then place a fender washer on the uncrushed nut. Then crush it. Doing so will greatly reduce fiberglass cracking and strength of the attachment.
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If you will be needing to unbolt the attachment, add a dab of adhesive to the crush zones of the Petal nut. Once crushed and cured, the bolt can be removed and you'll not lose the Petal Nut in the back space.
GI Edit: The pedal nut will not fall out so edited the use of adhesive. Obvious brain fart!
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Amazon has scores of surge protectors to choose from. And as apparent from the above posts, each owner has their concerns in mind for their use. So, for a pedestal power pole used as a supplemental protection, my concern is spikes and RF noise. Not sustained voltages beyond standard as MountainOliver sadly experienced.
For the purpose of voltage noise and spikes, having a plug-in type with lots of joules capacity is the goal. Keeping it light, simple and inexpensive is the idea from my minimalist perspective. If those are your goals, then this one seems to fit bill and costs a LOT less than most others at the 8,000+ joules rating:
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On 1/29/2024 at 3:44 AM, MAX Burner said:
wait until the Xantrax 2000 dies and move into a Victron Multi 3000 inverter/charger
All:
I do really like the tech specs on that unit. Especially the Victron quality and the "power assist" feature. I am sort of concerned about having all my power eggs in one basket though. But with a Victron, I could get over this concern I suspect.
The one road block that I have not solved is where to put the VM3000 without taking out of service existing storage space. Places such as part of the wardrobe closet at entrance or storage between the twin beds is too valuable to sacrifice. Likewise under the dinette table would for sure get me sleeping with the bears.
Are there other suitable locations our "older" 2017 and 2018 Ollies that it would fit? How much heat does it generate that we also would need to accomodate?
GJ
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Art:
Some may ponder too long on this one. Suggest add an "en" on Tight and a value.
GJ
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On 2/17/2024 at 1:42 PM, Geronimo John said:
But checking the connections and maybe cleaning off dust from the sensor may.
GJ
First check the connections. If they are firm, then dusting likely will not make any difference other than it will be cleaner.
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Per your reference, I checked Splendiday.com and order out a set of them. Their design uses four "Petals" vs. most others that have just three. I like that.
I've used rivet (Blind Flush Nuts as my GrandPa called them) nuts for many decades and they can be a PITA for fiberglass just as you stated. Also for plastic IMHO.
Thanks for the suggestion.
GJ
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On 1/1/2024 at 9:34 AM, rich.dev said:
Should work, plusnut is another option. The flange on a rivnut is fairly small, a pre-bulb plusnut expands significantly more than a rivnut when compressed. And plusnuts are not as critical with the hole diameter as rivnuts, so a great option for fibreglass I think.
I've looked into the PlusNuts and agree they will be a better choice for our Ollie Fiberglass needs. Were you using steel or aluminum ones? What size? source?
Thanks for the idea and for posting.
GJ
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Tire pressure confusion - Legacy Elite 2 POLL
in Towing an Oliver
Posted
Two Flat Tires On Your OE2
Steve as time permits, would you please consider splitting this topic off separately. I sort of highjacked JD's Tire Pressure Confusion thread with this topic. As a safety topic, it warrants all of us to consider the possibility as has been mentioned. Thanks, GJ.
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I have consolidated the great inputs for the topic, and added several more as I ran the scenario several times in my brain. The attachment reflects what I, and many of you, believe to be a reasonable order of tasks to accomplish. It is not perfect, but certainly can be adjusted to fit your situation. I hope that it is never needed in your case, but I know it has already happened to more than a few.
WORD OF CAUTION:
Two Flat Tires On An OE2.docxItem 6 is hypothetical from my pea-brain. I have not tried it, but I do think that it will work as intended. Key question is how the EZ-Flex will impact the dunnage, specifically will it be needed on both axles?
Hopefully one of our owners could mock it up while doing their bearing service. Maybe add pictures of their solution to this thread. I will not see my trailer until July, and certainly will do so then. But sooner than then would be a great service to our Community.
Travel safely and enjoy life every day!
GJ