Geronimo John
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Posts posted by Geronimo John
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This response to inspection was included in the recall notice info.
Would be helpful if we could just E-mail them to OTT. But sadly, the Government does not generally accept E-mails as legal documents.
GJ
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More info here: https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls?nhtsaId=24V322000
Then download additional documents at bottom.
chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2024/RCLRPT-24V322-5775.PDF
GJ
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If it is a recall, I wonder why it is not posted here:
GJ
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1 hour ago, GraniteStaters said:
I added the stand off legs on the back of the fan and place it into the hot air exhaust opening and used a rubber hose to secure the fan against the back wall. It has never moved
I much prefer your approach. Would love to see some pictures of your approach!
I looked at trying to stand-off the fan in the hot air section, but on the road did not have much to work with. Using some hose material as legs would also kill the small amount of vibration.
For sure snaking the wires between the hulls there would be a challenge. I was thinking of mounting the controller on the fore outside wall of the Refer unit, just before the door, but pretty low. I think that a long drill bit from the Refer side aft direction would make the wire run much easier. Would for sure need to seal the holes. But this is a "C" project when I have several A and B's ahead of it.
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3 minutes ago, Cort said:
I know you're not supposed to run the fridge on propane when travelling
If you are in a high density tunnel, yes most places require you to do so.
But for 99% of us who are not, I would submit that the vast majority run LP when on the road.
One precaution I suggest on low or no wind days, that we turn off the refrigerator when under cover and refueling. Like at COSTCO.
GJ
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1 minute ago, Cort said:
Is there much to installing a supplemental fan to pull more air through the coils?
Not all that difficult. Below is some from the one I did.
You may need to get creative on the attachment in the louvers. For simplicity I kept the controller next to the electrical. When I have time, I'll remount the controller inside where I can get to it easier.
GJ
DIY - Titan Refrigerator Fan Install.docx
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On 5/23/2024 at 3:18 AM, HDRider said:
It is hard to see how the little bugger got in there it is very well sealed, but he did.
with SOB, I had those buggers in places that made no sense. That trailer was stored under shade, but with no cover. If mud dobbers are prevalent where you store your Ollie, you may want to consider at least covering the AC with a form fitting cover or better the whole trailer. ADCO make a "relatively inexpensive one. PM if info desired.
GJ
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Art:
In addition to the much greater braking capability of the 5.2's, are the bearings larger as well?
GJ
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Apologies for the thread hijack.
GM
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Love the duct tape!
Why not use a closed cell foam yoga mat to avoid soaking up water or needing to add the clear layer?
Per Google:
Closed-cell mats are thinner and more water resistant, and don't absorb liquid (yes, that includes sweat) as quickly. These are generally more porous than thicker mats. Thicker, spongier yoga mats tend to have an open-cell construction, so they soak up more liquid (sweat) which also means they retain more bacteria.Mar 11, 2022
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Welcome to the family!
When you have questions, don't hesitate to ask them. Likely several other new owners have the same one.
Lots of great owners will for sure give you the benefit of our lessons learned.
Geronimo John
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19 hours ago, Galway Girl said:
A tip...Last year when we went to Alaska we bought some yoga mats and used some 3M no residue tape to attach them to the lower front of our trailer.
I saw this idea before our trip to Alaska. Didn't do it as I felt that the Husky mud guards, and a large one at the bumper would do the trick. They did their job well.... maybe 99.5%, But that last one half of a percent was noticeable.
When we go back to AK, I'll be sporting Yoga Mats.
GJ
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5 hours ago, JRK said:
Tired of having to use duct tape to hold the drawer closed.)
More than a few of us have completed the John Davies kitchen drawer strap mod for the very same reason.
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I like using a fine tooth circular hole saw. Cut softly into the fiberglass to slowly penetrate.
GJ.
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5 hours ago, MAX Burner said:
As y'all know, the "non-isolated" version will require installation of a dedicated negative cable
I am thinking that it is a wise idea to install a negative regardless of which Victron 12-12 30 you purchase.
Why: One way or another the rated power of the DC - DC charger will be flowing from the TV battery to the Ollie batteries. With my clamp on amp meter, tests with a pair of 4 AWG wires for the pathway, I see 100% flowing via the Positive, and about 70% flowing via the Negative cable. So, the rest, 30%, is flowing via the frame/Andeson Chains, and Bulldog to the frame.
Without the Negative cable "home run", all of it would be going thru the frame via the Bulldog, greased balls and Anderson chains ending up at the Battery Cable for the TV. The Battery Cable may or may not be sized for the additional load. But for sure, the series of resistance connections on that path would be a concern.
With a clamp on amp meter and our 712 Smart, we can learn a lot. Kind of fun exercise as well.
GJ
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2 hours ago, GraniteStaters said:
I need to torque the nut to 40 ft lbs while holding the wet bolt end
This is huge "Gotcha" of the process. Glad you did your homework!.
Damaged splines must be repaired. But that for sure is another thread. Any owner with damaged splines may want to PM me.
GJ
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For hull 342, I have recently purchased the Dexter Bronze Bushings. Per their sales Order Confirmation:
8 each cost $47.76 plus tax. Their part number is D014-077-00.
They are .57" ID X .690 OD X 1/74 long.
Can't help you with the Shackle bolts themselves.
Hope this helps a little.
GJ
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1 hour ago, Patriot said:
Carry an extra leaf pack, or spend the lettuce and upgrade to a 5 leaf pack and get on with traveling enjoying your Oliver.
Thanks Patriot. Believe it or not, your update is appreciated.
But since you chose to again mention your approach on springs: There is a hand full of owners that believe a heavier duty, more compliant 4-leaf spring is a more appropriate option for the 6,000 pound OE2 fleet use.
Out of courtesy to this thread, I'll leave it at that. If you will.
GJ
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Steve: Great video. Thank you for taking the time and devoting your skills to produce it.
Participants: Did you hear of any OTT reactions/comments relative to the failing Dexter Springs?
Thank you,
GJ
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On 5/19/2024 at 2:12 PM, jd1923 said:
OK, the first mention was OK .. but you guys are turning my AGM in the TV thread into a dumb coffee thread!
Crazy Horse says "Me thinks JD will receive burning arrows when he hijacks another's forum."
But there is always hot coffee in my teepees.
At home
or on the trail
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MS AI says the dimensions by model are as follows: (Suggest independent verification)
GJ
When I had to replace my OTT OEM toilet due to a 25 cent part breaking and no available parts, my research yielded the below info. I chose to go with the low profile elongated seat 321 Full Timer.
Hope this is useful.
GJ
MODEL
311 Part Timer
320 Full Timer (Wrong P/N - My Error)
320 Full Timer
321 Full Timer
E-Trailer #
DOM67FR
DOM87FR
DOM87FR
DOM99FR
DESCRIPTION
Low Profile Round
Stand. Height Elongated
Stand. Height Elongated
Low Profile Elongated
SOURCE:
OEM PROVIDED May 2018
E-Trailer OR# 113709215 Shipped to Idaho, 83255
Dometic Warranty Replacement
Need this model
COLOR
White
White
Same
White
STATUS
Plastic Flush Rod Failed. Discarded in Idaho upon receipt of E-trailer replacement.
Replacement toilet purchased. Flush ball seal not centered. Leaked water & sewer gas
Still in original unopened box.
DEPTH
19"
22"
Same
22"
HEIGHT
14.25"
19.25" TILT!
Same
13.5
The 5" step between the toilet mounting surface and where you feet go is why just about all of us under seven feet tall need the low profile model.
For more efficient printing, I have transformed the above into my DIY format.
DIY - Dometic Toilet Replacement Specifications.docx
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1 hour ago, jd1923 said:
Look at the cracking at EVERY hole.
It's the screws that cause cracking, not the drilling of holes when properly done. In this case, the holes were in play and the fixture was set up with holes. So, Mike pretty much needed to use the holes. However, use of SS bolts, nylock nuts and washers on the inside would likely reduce further cracking.
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Technically Oscar was not IN the pet park. Smart dog.
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On 5/18/2024 at 11:05 AM, SeaDawg said:
The powder calgon has been discontinued in the US and Canada, for a number of years. (Hence, the Polish version in gj's photo.)
Really? That's strange because Amazon sold 250 of these this past month. Here is their hyper link:
or on the trail 
Switching to Lithium Ion Batteries recommendations on which type I should get and can I switch out??
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted · Edited by Geronimo John
Short answer: Not really.
Kindly create your signature block with your TV and Ollie hull number and I am sure many responses specific to your Hull will be forth coming.
Expanding on the not really part: You'll need a shunt so as to monitor your SOC. Also a master cutoff switch as well. Suggest 350 amp BlueSeas. Likely some cable work would be beneficial. Many of use Battleborn 100 amp hour batteries. Mostly three of them. Others go with a higher dollar version and much higher capacity. To run AC, you'll want a 3,000 inverter with a second A/B Switch. All can be DIY if you have the tools and skills.
I would recommend first searching for Lithium on the forum. There are a bunch of different ways to do it.
GJ