Geronimo John
-
Posts
1,610 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
40
Posts posted by Geronimo John
-
-
On 4/8/2024 at 5:26 PM, KenB said:
It seems 2018 was not a good year for SOME Oliver refrigerators.
For fun: To be fair, I suggest adding the word in Green above. Our 2018 Hull 342 Refer works quite well (with the added dual fan installation). Likely will continue to do so...... all the way until the day it catches on fire.
For Real: As soon as it starts to go south, eliminate the fire hazard as suggested by John D. years ago.
GJ
-
8 hours ago, Mike and Jill said:
Unanimously, everyone I have spoke with that has the Aventa air conditioning system would like some type of firmware update that would allow the option to have the blower or fan to cycle off and on as the compressor is needed.
The Houghton group have the same feelings about the same situation as yours. The installation of a relay to shut down the fan with the compressor has resulted in a vast improvement.
I have to wonder if the Aussie Engineer at Houghton moonlights for the Aventa folks. If so that would explain the twin disasters. The other issue the Houghton's have is that it does not have a remoted T-stat. We have a solution successfully implemented with the SOB's, but routing is still being worked in our OE2's for the thermistor to bring the Houghton up to world class.
GJ
PS: Several of us OTT owners will be working the thermistor solution over the summer.
-
2
-
-
3 hours ago, Rivernerd said:
I am not a metallurgist, but it seems to me that less flexibility should=less stress on the welds, not more.
Short answer often not. Think of earthquake proof buildings and those that are not. The ones that flex and bend under the stress survive. The solid ones crumble. An efficient solution is to have more cross members properly attached to the main frame members. Load distribution is the idea. Less load, less overload, less failures. The supported tanks would like it much better as well.
GJ
-
4
-
-
On 4/9/2024 at 10:07 AM, Patriot said:
After talking with @rideandfly I went out to the Ollie Hangar and rolled up under “XPLOR” and took a good hard look at ALL the frame/chassis welds. All appear to be solid.
Good news Patriot.
Just noticed the yellow "thing" on your spring shackle. What is it?
thanks. GJ
-
Liked your post. I'm also a Meguiar's guy. Our Ollie sees 3 to 4 months of summer hot sun a year. Other months are in a dark barn covered. Some questions:
I wax Ollie once a year. Is that adequate?
I have a Rupes LHR15ES Random Action Buffer. Have not used it on Ollie. Do you use yours routinely on our OE2's?
Will be using the 67 one step as you in a season or two. What buffing pads do your recommend using for the 67 one step to "Buff" it out with your polisher.
Thanks
GJ
-
We should be getting up the enough with ALCAN for a volume discount!
-
4
-
-
3 hours ago, routlaw said:
Sorry but I am a bit miffed at the moment and slightly venting. Repair was $103 and change.
As one of the more senior aged trailers (2015 OE2 Hull #70), a key piece of info of interest is "Has the frame design changed over the years" and if so, "How and When"?
GJ
-
1
-
3
-
-
On 4/6/2024 at 1:43 PM, John Welte said:
took a wet paper towel and ran it along the track. That seemed to take care of the fuzzy look. I will keep the night shades up a couple inches as I had them completely closed before. I did check the drain holes and they're free of debris.
John:
Your keeping the shades a bit above the track is a good idea for winter storage as well. The shades don't provide much insulation so why keep them in a potential wet zone?
Good idea... Thanks
GJ
-
1
-
-
I recommend you check your vent stack in the closet and below the decks. You should not be
sellingsmelling anything.GJ
-
1
-
1
-
-
Hull #364 - The Roadrunner
2023 F350 CCLB SRW 6.7L
Not knowing your year, but guessing your Hull 364 is a 2018 as is ours.
If that's the case, your should look like mine and it is the same as Rideandfly's pictures.
We had under cooling and over heating concerns and added the double fan posted above. it has helped quite a bit in very warm or HOT conditions.
GJ
-
1
-
2
-
-
-
2
-
-
On 4/5/2024 at 3:57 PM, Patriot said:
I am sure there are other options out there, but this is what we use and it has worked great for the last few years.
GJ NOTE: Below costs were created with total disregard for either the cost of money or inflation:
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Several times I, and other owners have discussed running dehumidifiers as you successfully do. For a group of us though that can't monitor our trailers for months at a time, the issue becomes the condensate pan service. Your post rekindled this problem and sparked an idea that may work. I store Ollie covered in a dark barn. In the fall, as part of my winterization I run the A/C temp down to around 60 degrees F to dehumidify as best as possible.
OPTION ONE - DAMP RID: To aid in humidity control, I use two of the large Damp Rid buckets and deploy them inside Ollie before I protect her further with a trailer cover. Each summer I uncover her and the Damp Rid buckets have fully exhausted their abilities. So, I know that at some point they have no longer been able to keep the humidity quite low. That said, I have not had any problems so far. The Damp Rid costs $28. Three year Damp Rid cost = $84
OPTION TWO - PRO BREEZE: To use the Pro Breeze for extended unattended use, I would place it on the counter by the sink. Then place a funnel and drain tube under the existing condensate drain port . As the Pro Breeze worked it's magic, the condensate would drop into the funnel and down the drain tube. I would run the tube down the kitchen sink drain and past its P-Trap. Once past the P-Trap, the condensate would drain downhill to the gray water tank. By running the hose past the kitchen sink P-trap it would not render the P-trap antifreeze in the trap ineffective. I would keep the trailer nose a bit high and crack the gray water tank drain valve a bit open to ameliorate the Pro Breeze condensate freezing concerns. The hardware to install likely would include a freeze stat to prevent running of the unit when temperatures are below freezing. The costs of this would option are about: $28/year in power (Assumes 4380 hours run time, at 16 cents/kwh.) Three year power cost: $84. Hardware, about $30. Assuming it lasts three years, $70. Three year Pro Breeze cost = $184
Your thoughts? Any better ideas?
-
1
-
-
Smell just
On 4/6/2024 at 11:57 AM, Dennis and Melissa said:We have a (mild?) smell at the entrance, only at the entrance, just as you step inside.
Much more likely is you are smelling one of the sources as mentioned above.
But just to cover a very remote possible source not yet mentioned:
Take a strong wiff of your over the door head bumper. Could have gotten wet and went south on you.
Not likely, but worth a 4 second check.
GJ
-
1
-
-
On 4/6/2024 at 10:56 AM, GarryandKristi said:
Also glad we have a separate inverter and not the new inverter/charger in which everything has to be run through the inverter. Ours is a 2018 model.
Ditto with our hull. I really prefer having the Inverter and Converter units physically isolated. Problem potential for a "double whammy" power outage is pretty much eliminated. Also, when our the combined 120V Load Center/Converter fails, I'll replace it with two separate components. This will reduce the potential of a Converter failure impacting the Load Center or the converse.
Other energy redundancy options to consider:
Dual fuel/power refrigerators (120V and 12V) unit with Danfos compressor.
Heat Pump vs. AC for second heat source (Plus having a cheap ole 1500 watt plug in heater).
Converter, Solar, Litho's, DC to DC , and Generator charging systems.
A second 120V auto transfer switch for the A/C (Serves as an installed spare should the primary fail too).
Twin Furion power ports. (A lower priority to the above.).
Having an inexpensive 400 watt 12V to 120V converter with alligator clips on the 12V inputs.
This one will ruffle some feathers: Not having totally necessary electronic systems for controlling of power/energy that may put you electrically wise out of business from all power sources with a single lightening strike on the RV park electric poles.
Having at least 50 feet of 12 AWG ( plugged for 20 Amp draw) or 10 AWG power extension cords. With an assortment of electrical adaptors.
A 15 amp multi plug strip.
Saran wrap to weather proof the above two items should rain be expected.
What other redundancy energy ideas can we think of?
GJ
-
On 4/7/2024 at 10:09 AM, Joe and Janet Childers said:
oe built this "box" for our Casita which has been upgraded in our opinion to LEII #588.
You and Joe did a nice job to create a secure yet light weight storage solution for your Honda.
I really like the idea of open door, remove Honda gas cap, and fill through the top plate fueling port. Also the fan and electrical options that are included such as hard wiring a plug to the trailer panel for distribution, as well as having a single phase plug so that another trailer could plug into your single phase 30 amp plug and share some power.
I am curious as to why it was mounted on 4X4"s/ It appears to encroach just a bit on the Bulldog, but not that much.
The only option I can think of is to add a bolder catcher filter on the air intake side.
With your set up, I bet you don't even know when the generator is running.
Really nice set-up.
-
Both MaxBurner and I (And several others) use this bar from out negative Litho battery bank to a BlueSeas Master Switch, and then to the shunt.
I copied the buss bar idea from another owner here on the forum.
GJ
-
1
-
-
Spring Replacement Build Sheet:
Somewhere up above here in the scores of pages of this thread is a suggestion to get your Dexter axle build sheet(s). I did so today. You will need to record the serial numbers of your axle(s). I took photo's.
Then call Dexter at (574) 295-7888, Option 1. Ask them for a copy of your axle build sheet(s) and give them your e-mail address. That's it.
Be sure to keep a copy of your build sheet(s) in your trailer so that down the road you are not wishing you had it.
Great Customer Services from all four of the Dexter areas I have spoken to today.
GJ
-
7
-
-
SPRING REPLACEMENT OPTION: Here is another option for our spring replacements via Dexter.
With the help of a Moderator, we know that the axle springs on most of our OE2's is their PR4B springs. They are made in China and we can purchase replacements for $38.95.
I worked my way up three layers at Dexter and their very helpful Technical Services Rep identified another Dexter option that will fit. It is their PR4 2400 # double eye spring PR4. This is a four leaf axle spring made of thicker and wider steel. The cost is $61.99, and it is also made in China.
DEXTER WARRANTIES: Dexter manufactured springs come with a 5 year warranty. Their Chinese made springs have a 1 year warranty.
THE QUESTION: That said, we now know how Chinese springs got onto our trailers. They are Dexter sold. In at least one perspective, that's good news I think.
GJ
-
2
-
-
We could continue to speculate on this a long time. For me, I'm now hibernating in my rabbit hole on this topic until OTT completes their process.
Now for anything about how to DIY replace our springs or helpful hints from those that have done so.... that's good topic to continue.
So, I am thinking it would be a good idea for a Moderator to split off the "DIY Replacement of Springs Lessons Learned" topic from this thread.
-
29 minutes ago, Mountainman198 said:
EMCO is a US based company, they have a 200,000 sq ft Spring plant in the Hebei Province in China
Yep, made in China. There are hundreds of plants there that make springs. Some great some not. Who knows. Most of us surely don't. Maybe time to chill and give OTT the time they need to fully figure this out from the past and future perspectives. I feel certain that they are all over this.
GJ
-
19 minutes ago, Mountainman198 said:
I think the answer you got is technically correct, but I do not believe the axle assemblies provided to Oliver by Dexter contain spring packs manufactured by the Dexter Parent company
Neither do I so believe.
My question has no answer from my end. And now that I am a little bit informed by Mr. Google of the ownership and leadership of Dexter, nor do I feel it proper to speculate further from the rabbit hole.
-
BLUF: When we get into a hurry, sometimes we miss the elephant in the room.
I was trying to find an on-line way to get my axles SN/LN Configuration Build Sheet. Was not successful, so I'll take two aspirins and call Dexter in the morning.
In the mean time, for reasons unknown, my pea brain wanted to know where our axles are made in China. So Mr. Google stepped in and told me:
From Dexter Web Site:
Founded in 1960 by Leonard Dexter, Dexter is recognized as a progressive industry leader providing quality products manufactured in the U.S. and Canada, employing state-of-the-art robotics, precision welding equipment, and automated machining processes.
Well that can't be true because we have Chinese springs???? So asked specifically a different way: Are Dexter axles made in the USA? A second reference said the same thing. YEP!
All right now I know that can't be right. I've seen those Chinese springs. So I asked WHERE ARE THE DEXTER SPRING PLANTS?
Dexter Plants: Answer is here, and not over >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>HERE
So at this point I am beginning to believe Mr. Google. But wait... WHO OWNS DEXTER?
Dexter Parent Company: Dexter is owned by DexKo Global, which was formed in 2015 by combining Dexter and AL-KO VT. This combination created a global leader in highly engineered trailer running gear components and systems, with over 130 years of trailer and caravan componentry experience. DexKo Global is managed out of Novi, Michigan, by a strategic staff focused on leveraging the resources of the combined companies.
Well Ok. But maybe it's a shell company being run by those guys overseas! Right? So I asked WHO IS THE LEADERSHIP TEAM FOR DEXKO?
DexKo Global Leadership Team:
So now, my brain has to ask if Dexter makes their axles in the USA, supervised by an American leadership who work for a parent company who is also all American........
How is it that we have Chinese springs in our Dexter axles?
Friends, my brain jumped me into the rabbit hole and we are buried there. If you want to find us, bring a backhoe because the answer is way beyond me.
GJ
-
1
-
-
On 12/27/2023 at 4:48 AM, Patriot said:
Mike was referring to the Truma condensate drain kit which uses the Oliver OEM drain tube
From your comment, and this picture:
It appears that the Truma is mounted on about a 3" high platform to allow the A/C vertical height for the condensate to drain over to the OTT internal drain lines. Creative solution.
The stock OE2 on level ground with the full diameter (16") rims/tires and the Dometic Penguin AC is 9' 8". Any idea how tall it is with the pictured A/C and drain kit installed?
GJ
-
Perfect! 15 years ago I needed one of those wrenches so bought the set. They have been hanging on the wall since then untouched. So, YEA I can use one of them again.
thanks for the model number and cartridge info. Very good info to have in my KEEPER file.
GJ
-
1
-
Made in USA leaf springs
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
The Dexter Team was helpful, but not successful in finding my Build Sheet. So a week later, I am still on the hunt. Seems that as companies get bought up by the Dexter Hoover, records sometimes get "misplaced".
I now have a former employee of a former company of a former company working the question. More to follow likely early next week.
GJ